JOURNAL 

OF A 

RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA 

DURING THE YEARS 1837, 1838 and 1839, 



BY 




JAMES STANISLAUS BELL. 



IN TWO VOLUMES. 



VOL. I. 



" Non si debbe mai lasciar seguire un disordine per fuggire una guerra, perch e ella 
non si fugge, ma si differisce a tuo disavvantaggio." — II Principe. 




LONDON: 
EDWARD MOXON, DOVER STREET, 

MDCCCXL, 



LONDON ; 

BRADBURY AND EVANS, PRINTERS, WHITEFRrARS. 



4 



PREFACE. 



Those of my readers who happen to have heard 
of the "Affair of the Vixen," will be already 
aware that my first visit to Circassia was induced by 
mercantile objects — the establishment of trade with 
the natives. 

On my second visit to that country I had the 
same objects in view, in consequence of the expecta- 
tion then generally prevalent, that our Government 
would have enforced reparation for the seizure of the 
Vixen, thereby affording an opening for trade ; but 
the expedition was undertaken at the desire (as I 
was led to suppose) of Her Majesty's Secretary of 
State for Foreign Affairs, intimated by the Under- 
Secretary, Mr. Strangways, to Mr. Urquhart, then 
Secretary of Legation at Constantinople, who com- 
municated it to and made arrangements with me. 

The inducement for my remaining in Circassia — 
after I had ceased, from unexpected change in the 
councils at home, to have much hope that the poli- 



vi PREFACE. 

tical information I was acquiring would be made 
available to my country— was the expectation which 
I entertained, and was encouraged in, from time to 
time, by the letters received from my countrymen, 
of succeeding in the accomplishment of my origi- 
nal object — the establishment of a direct trade 
between Circassia and Great Britain. These sub- 
jects are adverted to in the course of the Journal ; 
but it cannot fail to be observed that, from first to 
last, expectations were held out to me which, from 
various causes still open for discussion, were not 
realised. 

My own private matters necessarily left much of 
my time unoccupied ; and in a country so little 
known, and yet so singularly interesting, as Circassia 
is in many respects, I felt that I could not spend 
the leisure time on my hands with more pleasure 
to myself, and perchance profit to my country, 
than in gaining such a thorough acquaintance, as 
opportunity would afford, with the habits, manners, 
and genera] character of the natives, and of their 
political and civil institutions. 

My information upon these subjects I have given 
the reader just as it was acquired, without attempts 
ing to reduce it into method or arrangement. Cir- 
cassia is a country wholly devoid of any literature 



PREFACE. Vii 

whatever; the knowledge I have to communicate 
has therefore had ocular and auricular observation 
for its principal source, and has necessarily been 
acquired in a very desultory and unconnected 
manner. To have reduced this information into 
form and connexion, might have led me to inter- 
weave with actual facts my own theoretical con- 
clusions from them ; for notwithstanding the length 
of my residence in the country, and the intimate and 
familiar footing I enjoyed with the natives, I by no 
means feel assured that in attempting to give a con- 
nected or systematic account of the people, and of the 
social institutions of the country, I should not have 
presented to the reader something less true, and cer- 
tainly less graphic, though perhaps more symme- 
trical, than the Journal of every day's observation 
and experience, which I now lay before him just as 
it was compiled for the purpose of private correspon- 
dence. 

While prosecuting these inquiries, it would have 
required a more phlegmatic temperament than I can 
boast of to have refrained from taking,— in like man- 
ner as two of my countrymen who were with me for 
some time took, — not an interest merely, but a warm 
and enthusiastic interest, in arresting the progress of 
the cruel and unprincipled warfare which Russia 



Viii PREFACE. 

has been carrying on, for the last twelve years espe- 
cially, in this interesting country. 

When we viewed the desolation of whole districts — 
the crops burned and the hamlets destroyed — and 
continually heard the account of families, once happy 
and prosperous, reduced to indigence and misery by 
the destruction of their young men — and when we 
reflected that all this disturbance of the peace of a 
country every way fitted for the enjoyment of its 
inhabitants, was occasioned solely by the ambition 
and insatiable thirst for dominion of one indi- 
vidual, the Emperor of Russia, we could not re- 
strain our indignation ; we therefore freely took 
part in the councils of the natives, and gave them 
the benefit of such knowledge as our experience 
and reading had afforded us, in counselling them as 
to the particular species of warfare which seemed 
best suited for the troops they could bring into the 
field, and most likely to defeat the tactics of their 
enemies ; and I believe we may not unreasonably take 
partial credit to this advice for the heroic achieve- 
ments which had begun before I quitted the country, 
and have since been so admirably accomplished in 
the capture of almost all of the forts which Russia 
had erected in the country. 

I trust I do not require to make any apology for 



PREFACE. ix 

this interference in the military affairs of another 
country, so foreign certainly to the pursuits of a 
British merchant. However inconvenient it may be 
for the Government of Great Britain at the present 
moment to bring to solution the question, whether 
Russia has any claim whatever over the territory of 
Circassia, there cannot be a doubt that such a 
claim has no existence, in right or in fact, and that 
the independence of that country, not only as a 
fertile source of commerce^ but as a check upon 
Russia's movements, is of vital importance to Great 
Britain. 

These considerations alone would have been suffi- 
cient inducement to give such insignificant aid as was 
within my power to defeat, or at least retard, the 
aggressions of Russia, independently altogether of 
my sympathy for the inhabitants, for whom I had 
insensibly contracted an affection, as well as enthu- 
siastic admiration. 

Before introducing the reader to my Journal, I 
wish to premise a few observations in regard to the 
history of the tribes of the Caucasus. 

More than one writer has expressed, in a 
confident tone, his own notions upon this subject. 
I trust it will not be esteemed presumption on 
my part (for presumption consists, not in refusing 



X PREFACE. 

a blind confidence to the statements of any man, 
however distinguished, but in an over-estimate of 
one's own knowledge and abilities, and an under- 
estimate of those of others), should I, after much 
consideration, give it as my opinion that the 
necessary preliminary inquiries are yet to make in 
regard to the history of this singular and interesting 
people. 

That considerable materials for a history of the 
Caucasian tribes in general do exist in the literatures 
of Greece and Rome, of the Turks and Arabs, I 
firmly believe ; but I doubt whether these sources 
have yet been exhaustively investigated, or their 
value as evidence critically examined. 

The most cursory view, however, of the past and 
present history of the Caucasian Isthmus leads to the 
conclusion that the mass of the Caucasian tribes, in 
comparison with those of the tribes by which they are 
surrounded, is what may be called aboriginal or indi- 
genous. Their languages differ materially from those 
of the Indo-Germanic, Semitic, Mongol, and Slavonic 
nations, by whom their frontiers have been successively 
encroached upon. The state of society (at least in 
the parts which I have visited) seems to indicate a 
people independently engaged in the process of 
developing home-born laws and institutions, which 



PREFACE. Xi 

have contracted a slight colouring at times from the 
reflected light of more advanced neighbours. And 
turning to those great tides of national conquest, 
which alone history in early times attempted to 
portray — - 

Fins, Teutons, Mongols, Kalmuks, Huns, 
The North's fair and the South's dusk sons, 
RolFd to the westward from afar 
In tide-waves of ensanguined war — 

they seem all to have swept past the central mass 
of the Caucasus, wetting it at most in a transient 
manner, by some chance billow which rose higher 
than its fellows. 

The northern limits of Persian and Assyrian 
conquest are pre-eminently vague, but they do not 
appear to have done more at the utmost than 
to have reached the Caucasus. The legislation of 
the Byzantine empire sufficiently attests that neither 
Greeks nor Romans conquered or dislodged the tribes 
of the central Caucasus. The Arabs were engaged 
in inroads on the eastern and southern bases of this 
great mountain-range, when their progress was 
arrested by the growing ascendancy of the Turks. 
The great Turkish immigration swept past the 
base of the Caucasus on the south ; that of the Tatars 
or Mongols on the north. The substitution of a 
Slavonic rival of Turkish ascendancy for a Tatar or 



Xii PREFACE. 

Mongol rival has not yet altered this state of affairs. 
The struggles of the domesticated nations have been 
confined to the plains ; the mountain-range is still 
occupied by the aboriginal tribes. 

Some scanty traces of antiquity which I have 
noted, seem to point out the portions of the 
Byzantine, Arabian, Turkish, Mongolian, and Sla- 
vonic records, in which notices of the Caucasian 
tribes may be sought, with the greatest probability 
of success. Some interesting particulars might be 
discovered in the records of the Republic of Genoa, 
and perhaps also in the annals of the Kingdom of 
Georgia. The subject is worthy of being followed 
up (by some one better fitted to the task than I can 
pretend to be), both as a contribution to the history 
of human society, and as bearing directly upon the 
great practical questions which at present engage, 
or ought to engage, the attention of the civilised 
world. 

One great inducement to publication having been 
my desire to draw attention to the existing con- 
dition and prospects of the Circassian tribes, while 
circumstances so greatly conduce to give these 
subjects an exciting interest, I should have let a 
valuable opportunity pass by, if I had waited to 
make the investigations necessary, in order to entitle 



PREFACE. 



xiii 



me to express fully my own opinion of the history 
of Circassia. And apart from all personal consi- 
derations, I cannot but look upon it as advantageous 
to the public — to the nation, that I should thus early 
communicate such information as I possess in regard 
to the present situation of that country. I have 
therefore remained satisfied with telling what I saw, 
and what I thought while it was passing before my 
eyes. My facts are, I believe, candidly narrated ; 
my opinions are my own, and liable to error ; but 
I have endeavoured that they should not be so 
confounded with my narrative of events as to 
falsify it, should they themselves prove inaccu- 
rate. The facts which I have stated seem to me to 
warrant the opinion I have intimated above, that the 
Circassians are an aboriginal race, and that, although 
their modes of thought may have occasionally re- 
ceived a tinge from their Christian and Mussulman 
neighbours, they are essentially a self-educated people. 

On revising the following journal, which, as has 
been hinted, was written in the freedom and confi- 
dence of private communications, during leisure from 
my private avocations, and without any definite 
views as to the future, I have deemed it best, for the 
reasons above specified— while merely blending toge- 
ther, for the sake of greater consistency, the letters 



XIV PREFACE. 

written to various individuals — to give the sketches 
as they were originally taken, in the hope that, how- 
ever deficient in delicacy of touch, they may at all 
events be allowed to possess some claim to the more 
valuable characteristic of truth ; and that, in not 
attempting a finish beyond my power, nor an advo- 
cacy of the merits of the subject beyond what its 
merits warrant, I may at least escape having applied 
to me, 

" A vile encomium doubly ridicules ; 
There's nothing blackens like the ink of fools." 

At all events, without presuming to institute any 
comparison between the accomplished author of the 
" Sketches of Persia " and myself, I may be permit- 
ted to say, in his words : " I can truly affirm that 
the sense and the nonsense ; the anecdotes, the fables, 
and the tales — all, in short, which these volumes 
contain, with the exception of a few sage reflections 
of my own, do actually belong to the good people 
amongst whom they profess to have been collected.*" 

* Since writing the above, I have seen the advertisement of a publi- 
cation by my friend Mr. Longworth, viz., " A Year among the Cir- 
cassians." I am glad to catch this opportunity of asserting for his 
work the same titles derived from actual experience as I have claimed 
for my own, and of giving my humble testimony as to the pleasure and 
profit that may be expected in perusing Mr. Longworth's narrative ; 
for although I have not yet read it, I think that the experience of nearly 
a year (during which we were associated intimately and most amicably) 



PREFACE. XV 

If the same general impression with regard to the 
character of the Circassians shall be made upon the 
minds of my readers as has been made upon my 
own, I shall have attained all I wish, and all I have 
any right to expect. The egotism, which has an- 
noyed me, I believe to be almost inseparable from a 
personal narrative : on this account I hope it will 
be forgiven. 

The fate of Turkey I believe to be intimately 
connected with that of Circassia. The destruction 
of one Mussulman state in the Crimea, first put 
Turkey in imminent jeopardy : the destruction of 
another in Circassia will in all human probability 
precipitate her doom. 

No one who has studied the history of Russia 
(meagre though it be), and has watched the general 
tendency of her policy and transactions in the East, 
can well doubt of a resolution having been formed 
when the Crimea was captured, and having been 
ever since acted upon by her government, to make 
of Constantinople the southern capital of the empire 
— and all doubt would be removed by his visiting 

warrants me in anticipating, and leading others to anticipate, that his 
highly classical acquirements, fervid imagination, and generous disposi- 
tion, must have shed much light over that terra incognita — the Caucasian 
world. On this subject the public will now have the evidence of two 
eye-witnesses. 



Xvi PREFACE. 

Turkey, and becoming more intimately acquainted 
than he can be at a distance with the vast yet well- 
organised agency the Russian Government has esta- 
blished, and keeps in constant operation, for the 
gradual disruption of all the social bands that have 
hitherto constituted the strength of the fabric of 
Ottoman power. From the complacency, however, 
with which the public journals— almost without 
exception— view a recurrence to the ultima ratio of 
England's force as an eventual and effectual remedy 
for any errors in our Eastern policy into which 
the present Government may be leading us, it would 
appear that no suspicion is entertained of anything 
materially wrong being actually in progress ; while 
the fact is, that the whole moral and political ma- 
chinery necessary for the accomplishment of Russia's 
designs is at this moment, as it has long been, 
in full and effectual operation ; and any dis- 
agreement that could lead to our effectual remedy 
must therefore be carefully avoided* To promote 
these designs are rebellions in Turkey excited ; her 
territory invaded and curtailed ; her fiscal regula- 
tions interfered with ; her Christian subjects taken 
under protection ; the navigation of the Danube 
impeded ; and the Black Sea closed against the war- 
ships of other countries. To these ends separation 



PREFACE. XVII 

of interest and of policy is caused between Eng- 
land and France — to the hastening of the desired 
crisis in the affairs of Europe when Constantinople 
may be taken possession of, without the risk of any 
of the distracted states of Europe interfering, amid 
dangers still greater and more imminent ; and Eng- 
land may yet find, when too late, that she has been 
even more fatally duped in the Convention of London 
of 1840, for the strengthening of Turkey, than she 
was in the Treaty of London of 1827, for " the paci- 
fication of the East "—resulting in the destruction 
of the Turkish fleet at the Battle of Navarino ; 
the invasion, bankruptcy, and dismemberment of 
Turkey ; and the appropriation of Circassia ! 



A few remarks may be required in explanation 
and defence of the system of orthography adopted in 
writing Circassian words and proper names. Various 
attempts have of late years been made to introduce 
one general standard of geographical orthography. 
Whoever adverts to the necessity of expressing in 
European characters (characters which to a certain 
extent indicate different sounds to each of the 
different European nations) articulate sounds ap- 
plied to designate localities, by tribes, either des- 
titute of the art of writing, or employing systems 



XV111 PREFACE. 

of writing materially different from ours, must see 
the importance of these attempts. Without entering 
into specific criticism of the numerous systems which 
have been submitted to the public, two reasons have 
prevented me from adopting any of them. In the 
first place, none of them rests upon a sufficiently 
accurate and extensive analysis of articulate sound 
to be universally applicable : in the second, none of 
them has yet received any degree of general currency. 
The attention of literary men has been turned to 
the subject, and several creditable efforts have been 
made — that is all. At this stage a plain man can 
do no more than adhere in his own writings to one 
system, and tell the public what that system is : and 
this accordingly is what I have done in my attempts 
to represent in English characters the articulate 
sounds of the Circassian language. That language 
being an unwritten one, has on the one hand left 
me free from the difficulty of attempting to express 
in one set of characters sounds habitually associated 
with another set, not exactly the counterparts of the 
former ; but it has, on the other, left me to learn 
the sounds from oral sources alone, exposed to all 
the mistakes arising from defects which may exist 
in the speaker's organ of speech, or the hearer's 
organ of hearing, and from the want of fixity ne- 
cessarily existing in unwritten languages. 



PREFACE. Xix 

I have employed the English consonants to express 
the elementary sounds which they express in our 
own language. I have refrained from using the 
equivocal c (sometimes equivalent to s, and some- 
times to k); and I have written instead dj 9 the 
prefixed d being unnecessary to an Englishman, 
although necessary to a Frenchman. I have used 
tsh instead of ch 9 as the use of the latter combi- 
nation in the patois of the northern part of the 
island, and in the language of Germany (now so ge- 
nerally cultivated) to express the aspirate x> might 
lead to confusion : and I have employed Mi instead of 
cli to denote that aspirate, for the same reason that 
induced me to substitute k or s in all cases for c. 
In regard to the vowels, I have used the five prin- 
cipal — a, e 9 i, o 9 u — to express the sounds designated 
by them in Italian — a sufficient minuteness of division 
for all practical purposes. In regard to e, i, and u 9 
however, which in most languages are pronounced 
sometimes with their full power and sometimes 
muffled (if I may use the phrase), I have expressed 
the muffled sound by the simple letters e, i 9 u 9 the 
full rich sound by the accented letters e 9 t 9 u. In 
the termination of a word, e denotes a half-syllable 
destitute of any specific vowel sound ; eh the full 
sound of the vowel, The result of the observance 



XX 



PREFACE. 



of these rules is the adoption of the following system 
of vowels, and of the English simple consonants, 
with the modifications indicated in the annexed 
table : — 



VOWELS. 

a—- as in hard, 
p — as in bed. 
e — as a in bate. 
i — as ee in been 
i — as ea in pea. 
o — as in bold. 
u — as in but. 
u — as oo in boot. 

Diphthongs (where they occur) 
really combine the powers of the 
two characters written, and in the 
order of sequence in which they 
are written : ai, m, au. 

When two vowels are placed 
•together, with a diaeresis over 



either, each must be distinctly 
articulated, as if an imperceptible 
breathing (the spiritus lenis of the 
Greeks) intervened. 



CONSONANTS. 

g — always hard, like the Italian 
gh. 

j — The English sound, equiva- 
lent to dsk, 

tsh — standing in the same rela. 
tion to j that t does to d. 

kh — the Greek %, the German 

ch. 

gh — standing in the same rela- 
tion to kh that g does to k. 



London, 17th August, 1840, 



CONTENTS OF VOLUME I, 



LETTER I. 

FAGR 

Journal of a Voyage from Sinope to the Coast of Circassia . , 1 
LETTER II. 

First week in Circassia 2-A 

LETTER III. 

Transient Visit to the Southern Chiefs, and Journey northward . 47 

LETTER IV. 

Journey from Pshat to Semez , 78 

LETTER V. 

A Circassian Congress .102 

LETTER VI. 

Breaking up of the Congress — Residence in the Upper Valleys of 

Abun and Pshat 128 

LETTER VII. 

Residence at Semez . . . . . . , . .156 



LETTER VIII. 

Residence at Semez continued— Glimpse into the Structure of Circas- 
sian Society ......... 177 



XXII 



CONTENTS. 



LETTER IX. 

PAGR 

Residence at Semez continued — Diplomacy — Haymaking and Harvest 

— Geology — Border War 207 

LETTER X." 

Russian Plot — Another Congress — The Kuban — Return to Semez — 

Another Congress— An Envoy at a loss . 233 

LETTER XL 

A Circassian e< Like- Wake " — Arrival of another Englishman — The 
Emperor at Ghelenjik — The Russian Army recrosses the Kuban — 
Detection and Punishment of Spies — Predicament of the Eastern 
Provinces — Antiquarian Research— Feast of Merem — Geology . 262 

LETTER XII. 

Visits among the Tokavs—Salt-Spring — Pitch-Spring— Superabundance 
of Circassian Feasts— The Plain of the Kuban — Russian News — 
Renegade Circassians — Circassian Ostentation — Circassian Min- 
strelsy — Funeral Feasts . . . . . . . .287 

LETTER XIII, 

Female Education — Lady Yisiters — Comforts of Ramazan when it falls 

about the Winter Solstice . „ . . . . . 310 

LETTER XIV. 

Taking the Oath — Particulars of the Secession of the Abbats- — Tausch, 
the Russian Emissary — the Tleush, or Fraternities of the Circas- 
sians — "A Love Tale" ........ 329 

LETTER XV, 

A Man without a Gun — Circassian Prayer-Meetings — The Mrs. Glasse 
ofCircassia — Mensur and his War-Stories — Mohammedans the 
Radicals of Circassia — The Twelve Confederate Provinces of 
Circassia — Strange Conduct of Shamuz — Modes of Emancipating 
Serfs— Doubts and Difficulties— History and Productions of 
Shapsuk . ' , '. L -. 349 



C0N1ENTS. 



xxiii 



LETTER XVI. 

PA«K 

Return to Semez — Difference of the Winter Temperature at Semez 
and to the North of the Hills — Medical Practice and Circassian 
Prejudices — Military Movements — Mensur's Oration — Disap- 
pointed Volunteers — More Disappointments .... 376 

LETTER XVI I. 

Weakening of the Aristocracy in Circassia — Conjectures regarding the 
Origin of the Circassians— Serfs, or Pshilt — Thfokotl, or Freemen 
— Pshe, or Princes — Vork, or Noblemen — Departure of Nadir Bey 
— More Russian Aggression 402 

LETTER XVIIL 
Journey to the South — Ancient Fortress — Extraordinary conduct of 
Shamuz— Wine — Languages spoken on the Coast — A Congress 
in the South . . 425 



LIST OF PLATES IN VOL. I. 



1. Frontispiece — Hadji Ghuz Beg 

2. Ancient Tomb in the Valley of Pshat 

3. Portrait of Three Circassian Notables 

4. Map of Circassia 



NARRATIVE 



OF A 

RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



LETTER I. 

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE FROM SINOPE TO THE COAST 
OF CIRCASSIA. 

At Sea. Friday, Utk April, 1837. 

My dear . My resolution to return to 

Circassia, in order to complete the researches which 
had been so unseasonably interrupted, was formed the 
day after my arrival at Constantinople 9 subsequent to 
the capture of the Vixen. 

Preparation having been made for the expedition 
in the form of a plentiful assortment of presents : 
guns, sabres, and telescopes, for the chiefs ; necklaces 
and bracelets for their ladies ; and other articles for 
their dependants ; I sailed on the 1st of April by the 
steamer for Trebizond. The information, however, 
which I received during the voyage, relative to the 
interruption of communication between that port and 
Circassia, by the agency of the Russian consul, in- 
duced me to land at Sinope. Samsun and Sinope are 
the ports on the coast of Asia Minor most frequented 
by the Circassians ; and while I was inquiring in 
person after a vessel at the latter, I sent my servant, 

VOL. I. B 



2 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE 



Luca, to the former, to see what could be done there. 
Luca had shared in my captivity, and yet had joy- 
fully reimbarked with me. His orders were to re- 
turn without delay, by land or water ; but some diffi- 
culties, which arose out of his neglect to provide 
himself with a tishkerreh, or pass, prevented his re- 
joining me before the 8th. 

As soon as I became known, the Circassians seemed 
to take me under their especial charge. The first proof 
I had of their good-will was the alacrity with which 
they set themselves to transport my luggage to the 
quarters assigned to me, and to put the apartment in 
order. But, for various reasons, I preferred accepting 
from Captain Watson, of the English ship Arundel, 
a kind invitation to live on board his vessel till my 
servant's return. I half regretted having come to 
this determination when I saw the evident mortifica- 
tion it gave the Circassians. One of them in parti- 
cular, a young man with a fine intelligent expression 
of countenance, who had from the first declared he 
would bear me company to his own country, objected 
vehemently to my going on board the English vessel, 
— saying, he was afraid they would not use me well. 
This fear was excited, as I afterwards learned, by a 
drunken exhibition which the sailors (English sailor 
like) had made on the only day they were permitted 
to go on shore. 

I turned the time of my servant's detention to the 
best account I could, by making a conditional arrange- 
ment for our passage with the master of a small 
schooner — of some 25 tons burthen— which was about 
to sail, and getting prepared on board the Arundel a 



TO CIRCASSIA. 



3 



chart, reel-log, &c. — articles seldom found on board 
a Turkish coaster. As soon as Luca returned, I con- 
cluded the bargain definitively, appointing the even- 
ing of the next day for sailing, and the forenoon 
for making payment of the passage-money. While 
counting it out, the captain demanded double the sum 
agreed upon, under pretext that he had, on my ac- 
count, forborne taking any more cargo. As I had 
made no stipulation to that effect, and was of opinion 
that the two thousand piasters I had agreed to give 
w r ere sufficient remuneration, I put an end to the con- 
ference by pocketing my money, and asked the Bey 
of Sinope, whom I had invited to witness the pay- 
ment, to procure me a boat to carry me to Sam sun. 
He readily promised to give me the use of his own for 
nothing, and reproached the captain for his conduct, 
although — on account of my having omitted to ratify 
the bargain by paying a small sum to account, as is 
the Turkish custom — he could afford me no redress. 

While they were getting ready the boat for Samsun, 
I went on board the Arundel, and was pleased to find, 
when I returned to the shore, that Luca had succeeded 
in bringing Captain Khader of the schooner to reason. 
In this he had been materially assisted by Sheriff — a 
fat old Turkish merchant, much engaged in the Cir- 
cassian trade — and by the Circassians. Several of 
the latter said, that if he did not come to terms with 
me, instead of sailing with him, they would accom- 
pany me to Samsun. Their weight thrown into my 
scale induced the captain to promise that he would 
abide by his original terms, provided I would wait 
two days for the completion of his cargo. A couple 



4 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE 



of days' delay was preferable to a voyage to Samsun, 
and all the tracasserie of a new bargain : accordingly 
I consented to stay, and paid my earnest-money. 
Nor have I had any cause to regret this arrangement ; 
for on Sunday and Monday the wind was foul ; and 
although on Tuesday it was favourable, it changed 
again on Wednesday, and blew a heavy gale at night. 
On Thursday it was again favourable ; but I deemed 
it politic to yield to the urgency of Sheriff and Captain 
Khader, to allow Friday (the Mahomedan Sabbath) 
to be fairly begun before we sailed, in order that 
prayers for a prosperous voyage might be offered up 
in the Mosk. Accordingly, it was half-past eight 
this morning before we got under weigh. 

The morning was calm and lovely ; and as we 
towed our little schooner (with a Circassian flag flying 
which I had procured from the Captain of a vessel 
lately arrived) under the stern of the huge Arundel, 
that ship fired a salute and hoisted the union-jack, to 
greet a new sister on the ocean, and in token of the 
lively interest all on board felt in my enterprise. We 
were not behindhand in acknowledging the honour, 
with a rusty little two-pounder, which was so well 
charged, that it waked the echoes of the hill above 
us in fine style. 

This hill, about 300 feet high, is the termination 
of a peninsula, on the narrowest part of the neck of 
which Sinope is built. The magnificent old walls of 
the city are of great height, and studded with lofty 
towers, and extend from the south-eastern to the 
north-western bay, and along both shores. They 
encompass the Turkish portion of the town, which is 



TO CIRCASS1A. 



5 



thus entirely separated from that inhabited by the 
Greeks and Armenians. Towards the land these 
walls are double, and their security was formerly 
further increased by a deep fosse. Wandering round 
them, and indulging in the thoughts they were cal- 
culated to inspire, formed my chief amusements ; for 
although Turkish inscriptions, inserted in many 
places, indicate who are their present masters, in 
others are to be seen Greek and Latin inscriptions, 
numerous fragments of beautifully executed alto- 
relievos, friezes, capitals, entablatures, fluted marble 
columns, &c. &c, which attest their age and real pa- 
rentage, as well as the revolutions that have occurred 
here. Over a gate on the northern side I observed a 
long and very distinct Greek inscription, although 
its height prevented my reading and copying it ; and 
on part of a column, with its capital reversed, and 
now hollowed out and used as a mortar, there was 
inscribed, " Divo Antonino, Divi Antonini," &c. An 
antiquary would find this town worthy an examina- 
tion. It is, however, a confusedly ill-built place, and 
has nothing interesting about it but these antique 
walls and its picturesque situation. 

The adjoining country presents a continuous range 
of hills, increasing in elevation as they recede from 
the coast, and of infinite variety of form, — many 
being conical, and probably volcanic, as are those 
which occupy the greater portion of the coast towards 
the west, in which direction I feel assured that a 
geologist would find his labours richly compensated. 
An excursion to the southward of Sinope brought 
me among some pleasant little hills, with lanes among 



6 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE 



them bordered by luxuriant evergreens — under which 
were nestled most fragrant violets — and to many 
snug-looking farmsteads, with vineyards and orchards 
adjoining, where ploughing and other agricultural 
operations were now in busy progression. 

The principal trade of Sinope consists in shipping 
oak — in which the neighbouring hills abound — for 
the imperial arsenal at Constantinople, and in build- 
ing a few ships ; and its bay has latterly become a 
station where the Trebizond steamers call regularly 
for supplies of coals. The number of Turks and 
Persians who, now that their apprehensions are over- 
come, constantly pass to and fro in these steamers, is 
very considerable — generally from 60 to 100 each 
trip ; and it may be readily conjectured how great 
and beneficial will be the change that must ere long 
be wrought, both physically and morally, by such 
frequent contact among the members of communities 
hitherto kept apart, as much by physical obstacles as 
by religious prejudice. The steamers at present 
employed are frequently unable to take all the cargo 
offered, and a larger one is about to be placed on the 
line. Why have English capitalists neglected so 
valuable an opening ? 

Our Circassian passengers are five in number ; 
they came on board with a goodly quantity of luggage 
— merchandize I presume. Their first care was to 
examine their arms and ammunition, thereby keeping 
me in mind of the possibility of my becoming in- 
volved " in politics" — as a friend in Constantinople 
expressed it — before reaching the Circassian shore. 

The wind to-day was E.S.E. till 2 p.m., when we 



TO CIRCASSIA. 



7 



got abreast of Gherzeh ; it then suddenly shifted to 
S.S.E., and has since continued to blow a fine steady 
breeze, enabling us to lie our direct course for Pshat. 

Saturday , 15th. — The breeze of yesterday after- 
noon continued all last night, and till four this 
afternoon. It has now fallen, but we must already 
have run about eighty miles of our direct course — a 
tolerably propitious commencement. Captain Khader 
I find a lively, good-humoured person, who jokes 
and talks with all around. He and I mess together ; 
that is to say, there is prepared for us, twice a day, 
a stew of dried salt meat, eggs, and onions ; off 
which I first regale, and then hand the rest to him. 
We have then each a cuplet of sugarless coffee, and 
a pipe, all on deck. Our other meals, throughout 
the day, are quite irregular and optional, and con- 
sist of bread, garlic, olives and capsicums. Luckily 
I have some figs, apples, and walnuts, of my own 
providing, which I substitute for these other fruits. 
Poor Luca, as on his former voyages, eats scarcely 
anything. He and I have the fore-hatch assigned us ; 
the main being occupied by the other passengers ; 
and the after one reserved for the captain and crew — 
or, rather, for their stores and provisions, — for, as 
yet, they have slept on the quarter-deck. I have 
had furnished me a carpet, mattress, and coverlet ; 
and Luca uses my blanket and saddle-cloth, while 
my saddle and saddle-bags serve for pillows. All 
this I recount for the benefit of future travellers. I 
hope we may not be " bows under" before getting to 
land ; in that case our berth will be a wet one. 

One of the Circassians seems greatly to delight 



8 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE 



himself and Hassan, his eagle-eyed friend, by play- 
ing upon a very simple instrument — a species of 
mandoline. It is a stick about two feet long, hol- 
lowed out to the bark, and pierced towards the 
lower end with three holes. The upper end has no 
mouth-piece, but the performer, stopping half of the 
circle of the tube with his lips and tongue, and blow- 
ing down the remainder, produces a few very sweet 
notes, some of which he accompanies with an inarti- 
culate vocal sound. One of his favourite melodies 
has just eight notes, besides grace-notes, and the 
three last are played an octave below the rest. 
Hassan accompanies him with his voice, and beats 
time audibly to each note. Some of the melodies 
are much longer than the one I have mentioned. 
In general they are plaintive, but a few are lively ; 
and if, without knowing, I were asked what they 
were, I should probably have replied " Old Scottish 
' lilts.' " I have just learned that this pastoral mu- 
sician is a Circassian shepherd, who has been in 
Turkey trying to get employment, and not having 
succeeded, is getting his passage home in charity. 
He looks like one " who loves to live i' the sun," but 
his features are good and his teeth beautiful. 

The breeze lulled for about an hour only — as it 
were to give me time to write up this journal— and 
has again freshened from the same quarter as before. 

Sunday 16th, B\ a.m. — A lovely sunrise! but 
its calmness and light airs chopping about dispose 
us to admire the scene as little as the crew of a 
Cornish gin-boat, similarly circumstanced, in the 
English Channel. What we now want is a stiff 



TO CIRCASSIA. 



9 



breeze to enable us to get sight of land before night, 
and thus take measures for making a run through 
the Russian cruisers. The wind fell, almost entirely, 
about one this morning, and has continued very light 
ever since. 

Our vessel has no vane ; but when Khader wishes 
to see how to brace the yards, he sticks out his long 
pipe, which is seldom out of his hand, over the gun- 
wale, and the smoke perfectly answers the purpose. 
Who says the Turks are destitute of humour ? Our 
captain is full of it ; alike, while we have sat during 
the last two moonlight nights, passengers and sailors 
promiscuously, on his quarter-deck enjoying the fa- 
vouring breeze, or now that we mope about the nar- 
row limits, desponding at its absence ; and a young 
gipsy-looking lad, with elf-locks hanging about his 
neck, now at the helm — for, unlike the Russians, all 
of them can steer well — is the very personification of 
fun and happiness. Khader frequently asks me if I 
wish to eat, and tells me to ask for what I want, as 
all he has is at my disposal. All he bargains for in 
return is that I shall speak a good word for him 
among the Circassians when we land. He even 
wished me to promise to call the vessel mine ; but 
this I, of course, declined, promising however to tell 
how well he used me. Such is already the position, 
among both Turks and Circassians, we English have 
at our disposal ! The wind has at length become 
favourable, and now blows in a light steady breeze 
from the N.N.W., so that we can again lie our 
course. 

2 p.m. — The favourable breeze soon fell ; and 



10 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE 



for about two hours we were almost asleep upon the 
waters ; or, I should rather say, the schooner only ; 
for her inmates have been doing their best to 46 go 
ahead." We have on board a Mollah who is 
making his first trading voyage to Circassia. He 
has written a verse from the Koran which he has 
had tied aloft in the rigging ; and a Koran belong- 
ing to a very mild-looking Turk has been hung up 
at the stern. These are believed to be efficacious 
means of procuring a good wind, and our experience 
so far does not prove the contrary ; for a two-knot 
breeze has just set in from the N.N.W. again. The 
weather is exceedingly fine and promising in appear- 
ance. 

The Circassians and some of the sailors are very 
regular in their daily prayers, and all equally so in 
their ablutions. My fare, as has been shown, is far 
from sumptuous ; but it is served in a much more 
cleanly manner than is common, I suspect, among 
vessels of the same class on our coasts. Khader has 
a Turkish chart of the Black Sea, which appears on 
the whole pretty well laid down, but that the capes 
and bays are not a little " trop prononcesJ 9 He 
handles his vessel, too, as if he were used to it ; so 
that I really feel a degree of security such as I never 
experienced among the apprentice-crew of the Rus- 
sian Ajax. 

Monday, 17th, 5 p.m. — We did very little good 
the greater part of yesterday and all last night ; for 
during the latter we had to stand away S.S.E., owing 
to light wind from the E. accompanied by some 
fog. This course had to be persisted in till about 



TO CIRCASSIA. 



11 



six this morning, when the wind freshened and got 
to the eastward of S., where it has continued all day, 
enabling us to run nearly our course, at the rate of 
five knots. 

A swallow flew by a little ago : that is an omen 
of good ; but my writing has just been stopped by 
those on deck declaring they can hear cannon -firing. 
They have been looking out aloft, but show no dis- 
position to turn ; yet they are busy getting studding- 
sails ready in case of need. Twelve cannon-reports 
were counted. Possibly some poor bark like our 
own was the victim. How long will such iniquity 
be permitted ! 

These Turkish sailors have a very impressive 
usage, of assembling regularly on the quarter-deck 
after sunset, when one of them — the mate — says aloud 
a short prayer for fair wind and safety ; and at its 
conclusion all exclaim together, Amen ! 

Old Khader has 4< roughed it," for he has been in 
the Circassian trade, winter and summer, and in 
spite of the Russian blockade, for the last twenty- 
five years : and at the very time when the Russians 
were shedding their crocodile tears for his country 
at Unkiar Skellessi, his vessel was captured by their 
cruisers on the Circassian coast ; he, his crew, and 
passengers, including a Circassian female, to the 
number of nine persons, escaping in such a little 
cock-boat as we now tow astern ; in which they 
made their way to the coast near Samsun in four 
days. 

Tuesday, 18th. — All last night I kept myself 
awake, watching what was going on upon deck, as I 



12 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE 



was very desirous that no opportunity of getting to 
land should be lost. But, unfortunately, none oc- 
curred ; for we had to lie-to with our head to the 
southward, going about one knot an hour that way, 
for the greater part of it. In this state I found 
things on all my visits to the deck. At three, all 
were asleep, but one, who was singing to keep himself 
awake, the fear of Russian vessels surprising us not 
having been sufficient for that purpose. But as it 
had occurred to me from what I had observed at 
Ghelenjik, that the twelve cannon-reports we had 
heard might probably be the salutes of two vessels 
entering that harbour, and the reply thereto of the 
admiral, I had the captain waked, and suggested this 
to him. He concurred in the probability ; and if 
our conjecture be right, this proves what Khader 
had latterly told me of a current on this coast setting 
towards the north ; for if we be abreast of Ghelen- 
jik, we are about thirty-five miles north of what my 
reckoning gives; and the south-easterly wind we 
have had, renders this great divergence the more 
probable. The Russians have thus done one good 
turn ! 

About daylight this morning we put about to N.E. 
by N., and the rising sun showed us two hill-tops ; 
but at such a distance, that no one seemed to recog- 
nise them with certainty : some said they were over 
Pshat ; others, on the coast towards Anapa. Still 
the sight served to cheer us. This feeling, however, 
was but of short duration ; for the wind soon got 
more to the eastward, and blew so stiffly and raised 
such a sea, that Khader lost patience and put about 



TO C1RCASSIA. 



13 



the vessel's head towards Sinope. I remonstrated 
strongly against this ; and, at length, he took my 
advice, and stood S. by W. In this course he per- 
severed till 2 p.m., when the wind and sea still in- 
creasing, he declared he would hold on no longer, as a 
gale from the hills was coming on. It certainly looked 
portentous to windward, so I gave the matter up in 
despair, and retired to my berth to try and get relief 
from a headache which I attributed partly to want 
of proper food, as the high sea had prevented cook- 
ing, and I had dined with the Sailors on garlic and 
bread experimentally. My feelings at this time 
were by no means enviable, as I felt forced to take a 
gloomy view of matters, and to imagine myself re- 
turned to Sinope, baffled, and all my plans discon- 
certed. In a couple of hours, however, these blue 
devils were dispelled by the wind falling and be- 
coming more favourable, so that we again lay our 
course, and continued to do so all night. About 
eight I went to rest, intending to be up through the 
night, and see that a good look-out was kept, fearing 
that the rest, like myself, were losing apprehension 
of the cruisers, from being used to it. But on this 
occasion I sinned most, as I slept soundly and 
dreamed pleasantly till a quarter to three ; when, on 
going on deck, I found the seamen all at their duty, 
and two of the Circassians at theirs, viz. on the out- 
look for the Russians, about whom Khader seems to 
trouble himself but little, minding chiefly the trim 
of his sails. 

Wednesday, l§th. — Pursuing our course, as I 
have said, sunrise again showed us several conical 



14 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE 



hill-tops, which the Circassians seemed to agree 
among themselves must be those of Pshat ; and my 
former view of it made me think them right. Stud- 
ding-sails were immediately rigged ; and, with the 
wind on our larboard quarter, we were running 
rapidly in upon the land and all in high spirits, 
when the faithless wind, veering round towards the 
Russians at Ghelenjik, forced us to take in first one 
sail and then another, and finally to bear away to 
the southward. This course we continued till noon, 
by which time, as Khader had predicted, the wind 
had veered round to S.E. by S. ; and now, half-past 
one, it blows so freshly, that we are running back for 
Pshat at the rate of five to six knots. Khader is in 
high glee and passes jokes on all round. Among 
others, he said to a broad-grinning elderly Circassian 
gentleman, who lives near Anapa — is, it seems, the 
owner of the greater part of the cargo, and has had 
4< le mal de mer" — that he was happy to see him 
again on deck ; for, when he was asleep so often and 
forgot to say his prayers, we had bad winds. I told 
Khader that in England they thought the Turks 
could not joke, but that I was happy to see so merry 
a one as he. " Yes, yes," said he, " I have one old 
wife and one son, and whenever I can make some 
money for them, I can laugh and be happy all day 
long." 

1 5 p.m. — The wind has again fallen, and a heavy 
swell, added to the current, is, I fear, carrying us 
too far northward ; but we may have better fortune, 
as the Mollah [he is, by the bye, not a Mollah, but a 
devout Georgian Mussulman, named Ismael] has 



TO CIRCASSIA. 



15 



bethought him of an expedient for " raising the 
wind ;" viz., going round among his co-religionists 
with a little cup for paras to buy candles to place in 
the mosque of a saintly dervish at Sinab, which paras 
have been wrapped up in a piece of rag and tied round 
the tiller. I mean no disrespectful insinuation: the 
man has an honest face, and I doubt not the money 
will be faithfully applied. 

This evening, about eight, some fog set in, but 
soon abated, and left us a gentle breeze from the 
southward ; and after the sails were trimmed to it, 
the evening prayer said, and a watch set on the fore- 
castle, the rest assembled aft — Khader and I upon 
our little divan — when the steersman proposed telling 
us a tale to pass the time. While he knelt, as they 
generally do, with the tiller under his arm, and a 
pipe in one hand, the other being free for action, 
with the moonlight shed fully upon his mild expres- 
sive features, and the figures of his auditory — Turks 
and Circassians alternately — and especially on old 
Khader, who sat stately behind, with his bronzed and 
then sedate features — his burly figure clad in red 
trimmed with blue, his yellow slippers and capacious 
orange-coloured turban, — I thought our quarter-deck 
would make no bad picture. 

" Formerly," began the steersman, <£ there was a 
sultan who had lived to the age of a hundred, and 
was possessed of great power and wealth, yet he was 
unhappy ; and a certain dervish came to him and 
said, « Sultan, thou possessest great power and wealth? 
and hast lived to a good old age, and yet thou art 
unhappy : thou art unwilling to tell me the cause. 



16 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE 



but I can divine it ; and if thou wilt abide by my 
counsel, it shall be removed.' The sultan assented," 
&c. &c. The story-teller had held on only about 
three-quarters of an hour, when a shift of wind broke 
in upon him. The sails were trimmed, and it was 
resumed ; but the wind soon deserted us, and Hassan, 
one of the most lively of the Circassians — an iron- 
nerved person in appearance, and who had, no doubt, 
something else to think of, so near his home, than 
sultans and dervishes — made a loud call to take to 
the oars, and, seizing one himself, set a vigorous 
example. Yet we have but bad prospects for the 
night. 

Thursday, 20th. — I remained on deck till three 
this morning, continually tantalized by the hope of a 
wind to take us at once to land ; for every quarter 
of an hour or so, a fresh breeze sprung up, and, after 
carrying us a mile or two, died away again. When 
it fell, we took to our oars, abandoning them as soon 
as another breeze arose from the opposite quarter, 
only to die away like its predecessor. These alterna- 
tions between winds from the S.E. and N.W., and 
our oars in the lulls, took place times without num- 
ber, till at length I got out of patience with them, 
and retired for an hour or two's rest. Till ten o'clock 
this forenoon, things were little better ; but about 
that time, a steady and fresh breeze arose from the 
S.E. to S.S.E., and enabled us to run in quickly upon 
the land. We held on this course till about an hour 
ago — 2 p.m. — and had been much disappointed at 
not having been able all day to see any of the very 
high land about Pshat, — from which, by calculation, 



TO CIRCASSIA. 



17 



we should have been not far distant, — when, as good 
or bad luck would have it — for this remains to be 
proved — I asserted that I saw land on the lee-bow. 
Some admitted and some disputed the appearance ; 
the consequence of which was, that one went aloft, 
and there saw more than we wanted ; viz., a large 
ship between us and the land. Khader was imme- 
diately aroused from a nap, and the vessel put about 
seaward. All eyes were for some time eagerly turned 
aft, to see if we were pursued. Of this there is as 
yet no appearance, for the ship is already below the 
horizon ; and, therefore, our bugbear must, according 
to general assent, have been either a merchantman, 
or a man-of-war with a very bad look-out. So little 
fear, and so great desire to get ashore have the Cir- 
cassians, that they have already proposed turning 
back, and I have just been called to council. I dis- 
sented from the proposal, both because it would be 
very ridiculous for us to go and decide the question 
just now, whether the vessel we saw was a merchant- 
man or a man-of-war with a bad look-out, and be- 
cause we are, by the hills we have seen — for the fog 
has just left them — between Pshat and Ghelenjik, 
and therefore too far north to make the former with- 
out great difficulty. I advised, therefore, standing 
as near south as possible for five or six hours, and 
then again trying to make our port. 

Our greatest misfortune these four days past, next 
to foul winds, has been, that the hills were almost 
constantly inveloped in clouds, so that we could not 

correct our reckonings, w 7 hich it must be difficult to 
vol. r. a 



18 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE 



make accurately here, until something more certain be 
known about the velocity of the current to the north, 
and its extent. In clear weather, which they say 
is most frequent, the lofty hills are infallible guides. 

Friday, 21st. — Yesterday evening we had, for 
some time, a bright full moon, and not even a fleece 
of cloud to obscure it. The sea almost slept in the 
moon-beams ; while a gentle breath of wind wafted 
us on our course. 

For some time I sat enchanted by the still scene ; 
for even our decks were noiseless, through my mess- 
mates' apprehension of an eclipse I had foretold, and 
whose effects, it seemed, they could not anticipate 
without dread, although I had explained the nature 
of the phenomenon. 6 ' It is the will of God," was 
all they said to my representations. 

At length I bethought me of taking an hour's 
rest below, as I had determined to spend most of the 
night on deck, to see again that no opportunity of 
getting to land was lost. 

Clouds succeeded the eclipse ; but they brought 
little wind, and that little very variable ; so we 
determined to make a night of rowing, each in half- 
hour spells. At these I took my turn, and morning 
would have brought us some relief, as the wind 
began then to rise favourably ; and the earliest dawn 
showed us the mountains, only some forty miles 
ahead. The joy occasioned by this discovery was 
brief; for, soon after, the mate, on going aloft, de- 
clared he saw a sail to windward ; and, while we 
were inspecting it more narrowly through our glasses, 



TO CIRCASSIA. 



19 



another was descried, both vessels running along the 
coast before the wind from the northward. 

All were now roused to action : four more, in all 
eight, oars were manned, and studding-sails set. 
As we neared the land, the vessels neared us, our 
courses forming then an acute angle, and they were 
soon ascertained to be two Russian men-of-war. The 
nearest one appeared to be a three-masted cutter of 
six guns, and the other, much larger vessel, a gun-brig. 

When the smaller one came within five or six miles 
of us, Khader cut adrift the boat which, during the 
voyage, had been towed astern. We soon saw a 
boat with a sail put off from the cutter, to capture 
the persons who they concluded were endeavouring 
to escape. This had the effect of making our enemy 
so many hands less efficient. At this crisis, I strongly 
urged throwing overboard everything that was not 
of immediate use, and staving our only remaining 
water-cask. The Turks, however, had no notion of 
sacrificing any part of their property ; so the only 
articles they heaved overboard were the gun-carriage 
(the rusty little two-pounder was below and could not 
be got at) and my Circassian flag. The cutter com- 
menced firing the moment they believed us to be 
within range. The first shots fell short, and only 
served to stimulate the exertions of the rowers. My 
experience of Russian seamanship led me to antici- 
pate chances of escape. I was not disappointed. 
Twice before the cutter neared us, way was lost by 
the necessity of altering her course, owing to her 
commander having endeavoured to run in upon us, 
instead of heading and getting between us and the 

c 2 



20 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE 



part of the coast we were running for. Four or five 
times, while running alongside and nearly on our 
quarter, with her shot passing far beyond us, did 
she lose way by altering her course, either for the 
purpose of closing in with us, or of bringing her 
broadside to bear, the guns at the bow being appa- 
rently (from their report) of smaller dimensions. 
The Turks were now in despair, and talked of 
striking the sails in token of submission. The mild- 
looking Turk with the Koran, when urged to join 
in rowing, replied, that he had no strength left in 
him. But the Circassians were in a mood to avail 
themselves of the lubberiiness of their pursuers. 
Khamti, the broad-grinning old gentleman, from the 
neighbourhood of Anapa, drew his dagger upon 
Khader the moment he talked of surrender. Ismail, 
the devout Mollah, had the day before, when the 
first vessel was seen, proposed that we should load 
our fire-arms (setting at the same time the example) 
and die fighting rather than be taken. This resolu- 
tion was now adopted. All the Circassians placed 
their daggers in their belts to keep the sailors 
to their duty. This demonstration obliged two 
young Turks, who were crying, to hoist again the 
sails they had lowered in despair ; and in their 
trembling hurry, they gave one of them (a studding- 
sail) a twist, which, for want of time to remedy, it 
was allowed to retain during our run. 

The dilatoriness of the Russians in firing was as 
remarkable as their slovenly style of manoeuvring; 
yet some of their shots were well enough aimed. I 
heard one pass b°tween our masts and another 



TO CIRCASSIA. 



21 



through one of the sails forward, and several struck 
the water very near us. 

On the whole, our distance from shore, and the 
superior rig and trim of our adversary, seemed to 
render our case desperate, notwithstanding his awk- 
wardness, and the spirit of the Circassians. I had 
gone below for a few minutes, to get some of my 
rather excessive stock of powder ready to be thrown 
overboard, and to get a letter, which it would have 
been imprudent to have about me when taken, ready 
for destruction. While thus employed, by a chance 
look up the hatchway, I caught the keen eyes of 
Achmajan, the same who declared at Sinope his 
determination to accompany me. Although of low 
stature, and rather slender (except about the should- 
ers), he had proved himself a perfect hero, by his 
strength, courage, address in managing the sailors, 
and unflagging spirit. I had been rowing at the 
same oar with him (all our heavier oars were double- 
manned) for the last two hours, and could not per- 
ceive the slightest diminution of his strength. As 
his fine dark eye (his features are all delicately hand- 
some) met mine, he cried, " Ah, Capitan ! " with 
an imploring expression that must have been irre- 
sistible, if I ever had thought of deserting him — so I 
returned immediately to his oar, and endeavoured to 
aid him in exciting the rest, by joining in their row- 
ing chaunt, or in a cheer of " Madge, madge ! " — 
equivalent to the French " courage" — in reply to 
each shot. Latterly the cutter came within musket- 
range of us, when Hassan, the iron-nerved, seized 
his rifle, and fired two shots in succession at her — 



22 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE 



one of which, they said, took effect. He next drew 
his dagger, and, brandishing it over his head, shouted 
some expressions of defiance. His piping friend, the 
shepherd, took things more coolly, yet joined in the 
rowing chaunt, and pulled with unabating vigour, 
though with sad want of science. 

At length we got so near the coast, that we could 
see the natives rushing down the hills, and stream- 
ing along the beach, from both sides, towards the 
point for which we were making. On seeing this, 
our Circassians, who had been singing together their 
beautiful rowing chaunt, " Arira-ri-ra," set up a 
scream of piercing shrillness, to which their country- 
men on shore sent back an equally ear-piercing reply. 
In a short time, a boat, literally crammed with armed 
men, was alongside of us. We wished them to come 
on board, and aid our rowing ; but they preferred 
rowing in a half-circle round us, as if to show the 
cutter we were under their protection. The Rus- 
sians seemed to think that this reinforcement of 24 
or 25 men was not be trifled with, for the cutter was 
immediately layed to, while its crew vented their 
disappointment in some random shots, which splashed 
here and there about us. 

The gun-brig had by this time arrived in the offing, 
where she also brought to, and sent us an occasional 
ball, which was treated by those of our side with 
much indifference, the shoreward view having by this 
time become much more interesting. 

There a dense mass of warriors was now collected. 
When we came sufficiently near, three young men 
stripped, and swam off to us, to carry our cable 



TO CIRCASSIA. 



23 



ashore ; and were met half-way on their return by a 
fourth, bringing them aid. A large boat, which I 
had observed being launched to the southward, 
reached us about this time, to aid in carrying our 
goods ashore had the firing continued ; but the Rus- 
sians, seeing our strength, made sail seaward. 



LETTER II. 



FIRST WEEK IN CIRCASSIA. 

Subesh, 24th April, 1887. 

My dear . — Hassan was among the first 

ashore ; and nothing short of his robust frame could 
have stood the vigorous salutations of his country- 
men, who pulled, and hauled, and hugged him in a 
most extraordinary manner. During this first ex- 
plosion of feeling, I remained apart in the bow of 
the vessel — her stern was shoreward. Luca, by my 
directions, had previously got my luggage ready 
for speedy debarkation, had events rendered it neces- 
sary. During the chase, he had helped to row as 
far as his strength, which is not great, would permit ; 
not the less vigorously, perhaps, from a disinclination 
to fall a second time into the hands of the Russians. 
As soon as an opportunity offered, he informed some 
of the principal people present who I was : one or 
two of them came forward immediately, and invited 
me to go on shore, leaving my property in their 
custody. I readily acquiesced in this arrangement. 
A corner of a fenced field was pointed out as an eli- 
gible spot for me to wait in, and thither every article 
belonging to me was brought, without one word being 
said about porterage. 

An incident which occurred at this, the moment 
of my first setting foot in Circassia, convinced me 
that its inhabitants, although they have generally 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



25 



adopted the creed of the Turks, do still refuse to 
follow out, in all its absurd strictness, their doctrine 
of fatality. I perceived some hesitation, or at least 
delay, in the arrangements for our landing ; and I 
was delighted to learn, that it was owing to certain 
quarantine regulations established here, in conse- 
quence of which, even in our circumstances, we were 
not permitted to communicate with those on shore, 
until our captain had taken an oath on the Koran 
that there was no plague at the port he came from. 
Notwithstanding this assurance, all the goods landed 
were immediately carried (slung on poles) to a build- 
ing set apart for the purpose, and there fumigated. 
It was the fear of the plague which dictated these pre- 
cautions, and had induced the warriors, who pushed 
off to our assistance, to remain in their own boat, 
instead of boarding our vessel and assisting us to row 
to the shore. For the same reason I had to wait a 
good while on the plot of ground pointed out to me, 
before a lodging could be procured for my use : and 
the house at last selected furnished an additional 
proof of their caution. It w T as the guest-house of a 
family, all the members of which, except one son, 
had gone, according to the custom of the country, to 
mourn at the house of a relation, where a death had 
occurred. 

The name of this family is Arslanghaer. Though 
not wealthy, it is much respected ; and my present 
host, a young man about twenty-eight years of age, 
is extremely attentive, and gentle in his manners. 
He scarcely leaves me for a moment, and sleeps here 
for the greater security of my effects. Our meals 



26 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



are brought from the family-house, and he never eats 
till I have done. The hospitality of this people 
seems to be on a liberal scale. The night before last, 
Hassan, the companion of my voyage, came to visit 
me, and spent the night here. Last night we had 
another visitor, whom I somehow took for a brother 
of my host ; but of whom, I have this morning dis- 
covered, he knows nothing, although he has lodged 
and fed him. On the evening of my arrival, my 
host, who is a rigid Mussulman, asked me if I drank 
wine or brandy. On my declining both, I observed 
him send back a piece of cotton cloth he had brought 
from his house, with the intention, no doubt, of bar- 
tering it for liquor. 

This part of the country has a beautiful Highland 
aspect, and the coast, from Anapa to Sukum-Kaleh, 
presents, I am told, similar features — a continuous 
range of wooded mountains, with little valleys open- 
ing here and there. At this spot the hills extend 
to the sea in ridges resembling vast unbroken walls ; 
but elsewhere they assume a conical, and, indeed, 
every variety of form . Almost all of them are 
clothed with forests, chiefly oak, to their very summit ; 
and the trees are now putting forth their first tender 
leaves. The hills, as far as I can judge from a very 
hasty and superficial inspection, consist of a friable 
clay-slate ; the detritus has filled the bottoms of the 
numerous dells with a deep and excellent soil — of 
which, indeed, the quantity of oak is a sufficient in- 
dication. The narrow valley of the Subesh — the 
mountain-stream on the banks of which I am at 
present residing — - seems particularly rich, and is 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



27 



highly cultivated. Trees are numerous, and all the 
larger ones are festooned with enormous vines, from 
the grapes of which, I am told, many of the inhabi- 
tants make excellent wine and brandy. Low hills 
skirt the valley, clothed, where not under tillage, 
with fruit-trees, and a beautiful carpet of grass and 
wild-flowers. No houses are to be seen in the valley ; 
they lurk in clusters in the wooded dells above — a 
consequence, probably, of the war so long waged on 
this coast. Half-way up one of these hills, about a 
mile and a half from the beach, stands the cot I now 
occupy. I have an exquisite view from the green 
plateau in front, of the hills on either side, a part of 
the valley and the delta of the Subesh, and the sea 
beyond. The cottage itself, like all in this neighbour- 
hood, has a thatched roof, resting upon walls of strong 
stakes, hurdled and plastered, inside and out, with 
clay washed with a white, or rather pale green colour. 
The floor, too, is of clay, and is carefully swept, and 
repeatedly watered during the course of the day. At 
one end of the room (the house consists of but one 
room, with a stable adjoining) is the fire-place, — a 
circular indenture in the floor, over which is placed a 
semicircular funnel, of about five feet diameter at the 
base, through which the smoke escapes. At one side 
of this fire-place is a small raised divan, well cushioned, 
for my accommodation ; and the fire is constantly 
heaped with great billets of oak, which at present is 
very agreeable, as this is the rainy month, and, for 
the last two days, we have had torrents of rain, ac- 
companied with a high cold wind. This accounts 
for my writing so much. 



28 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



One of the servants is a Russian, taken prisoner in 
one of the many vessels which have fallen into the 
hands of the Circassians. He enters my apartment, 
— the door of which is kept open all day to admit 
the light — freely with the rest, and joins as freely 
in the conversation. He speaks highly of the Cir- 
cassians, and of this family in particular, and says he 
would be quite happy if he had only money to get a 
wife. 

Monday, 2Mh. — The family have returned, and a 
change has already become perceptible in our meals, 
though unobjectionable before. This is owing to 
the more sedulous attention of females, by which I 
run a chance of being oppressed, unless I make good 
use of the horse, which is always kept ready for exer- 
cise. Fresh supplies of pasta * and meat (either 
stewed or roasted) — pasta and goats' milk — pasta, or 
Turkey-corn bread, with honey, are kept sending 
in upon me, to satiety. I have had a visit, too* 
from one of the daughters — a very pretty girl I 
am told, of about sixteen — with a bowl of nuts and 
walnuts. Unluckily I was absent at the time. We 
must hope that the visit was quite disinterested, for 
in candour I ought to tell, that, the day before, I had a 
visit from the daughter of a neighbouring noble, who 
is here on a visit (a very pretty girl, whose head and 
breast were profusely decorated with lace, and other 
ornaments of silver), who also brought a bowl of nuts 
and walnuts, and to whom I presented a pair of 
scissors. Both these young ladies eagerly desire to 
go to Stambul to push their fortune — what we call 

* A thick porridge made of millet. 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



29 



being sold for slaves, and, with Allan's romance of a 
picture before us, think of with sympathetic horror. 

The father of this family — a very kind old man — 
overtook me yesterday evening after sunset in the 
valley, where I had lost my way amid the numerous 
little hills and pathways, and brought me home. 
Soon after, he entered my house, sat down beside me, 
and said : " You are my son, and this house is not 
any longer mine but yours." — <e He has spoken 
truly," said the son ; " for the first time I saw 
Yakub Bey, I felt for him all the attachment of a 
brother." I wished to know if the Circassians and 
the other mountaineers were now united, and if they 
sent each other reinforcements when wanted. In 
these respects, the young man says, they are as bro- 
thers, and go wherever necessity calls them ; in proof 
of which he told me he has but lately returned from 
serving against the Russians on the banks of the 
Kuban. He reports, that the Russians have lately 
attempted establishing an agricultural colony near 
Anapa, under strong military protection ; and that 
the Circassians have succeeded in capturing some of 
the cattle and implements belonging to it. 

Wednesday, 26th. — My room appears to be now, 
occasionally, a favourite resort of the young ladies of 
my host's family and their visitors, who find attrac- 
tions in my musical-box, and other curiosities and 
sweetmeats. One or other of the old gentlemen ge- 
nerally accompanies them. According to the custom 
of the country, this family has two boys boarded with 
it for their education. One of these, the son of a 
noble, arrived yesterday, and the other, about nine 



so 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



years old, returns home shortly, having apparently 
completed his education ; for he is modest and 
serviceable, an excellent rider, and said to be one of 
the best marksmen in the valley. 

Owing to the absence of Hassan Bey — one of the 
most influential persons in this district, and already 
known to the English — the people here seem quite 
at a loss what to do with me, My presence, and my 
coming for their benefit, having become known, I 
have daily large levees ; during which two or three 
of the elders have generally retired to the plateau to 
consult about my disposal, while the rest have em- 
braced the opportunity of consulting me on all sorts 
of surgical and medical cases, — every Englishman 
being supposed to know everything. Among others, 
my fellow-passenger, Khamti, came to consult me 
about a gun-shot wound, in which he thinks a piece 
of his shirt-of-mail still remains. The result of the 
consultations of the elders is, that they have made 
arrangements among themselves to send me, at their 
expense, towards the north — whither they understand 
I wish to go — either by land or water ; and Achma- 
jan has volunteered to leave his goods in the charge 
of some friend here, and accompany me wherever I 
go, during the whole time I may remain in the 
country. My host's eldest and third sons express 
the same wish. 

Pending these negotiations, I sent to see if the two 
nearest chiefs, Hassan of Khissa and Achmet of Var- 
dan, were still from home. My messenger to the 
house of the latter met one of his people coming to 
me with the congratulations of his master on my 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



31 



safe arrival, and an expression of his desire to see 
me. Meysurbi, an elder of Khissa, sent me a 
similar message. Lastly, there arrived a letter from 
Achmet, signed by himself and three others, con- 
gratulating me on my arrival ; excusing himself for 
not coming to see me, on the plea of business ; and 
begging me to remove to his house. This invitation 
I was on the point of accepting, when a large party 
of the people, who had come here with the messenger, 
held, in his presence, a long debate on the subject, 
which at length terminated in their communicating 
to me, through Achmajan, who speaks Turkish 
well, their unanimous opinion, that it would be much 
more becoming for Achmet to come to me, than for 
me to go to him. 

This decision annoyed me, as involving a further 
loss of time ; yet it seemed necessary to comply with 
it ; more particularly as it involved a question of 
national etiquette, and had been come to in the 
presence of the messenger ; for my future position 
in the country must depend greatly on first impres- 
sions. Accordingly I wrote Achmet a note, thanking 
him for his politeness, and telling him I should be 
sorry to inconvenience him, but that I also was much 
engaged writing letters for England, to be despatched 
by the vessel I came in ; that these would occupy 
me for another day or two, when I hoped it might 
be in his power to come and see me. Thus matters 
rest in the mean time. I think it right to give these 
details, as criterions for estimating the manners of 
the people, and their disposition toward Englishmen. 

In a walk over one of the hills this morning, I 



32 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



saw abundance of hazels, bramble-berries, wild rose, 
scented hawthorn just flowering, and deep beds of 
fern ; nothing in short that struck me as differing 
essentially from the clothing of our own mountains, 
excepting the luxuriance of the vegetation. The 
climate is said to have neither heat nor cold in ex- 
tremes. The dogs at the farm-houses appear to be 
of the very same breed as those of our hills, and they 
are equally inhospitable ; but their masters do not 
participate in their surliness, for a peasant at one of 
these houses, where I asked my way, brought me 
back the greater part of it. It was well I had a 
good walk, for on my return I found a kid had been 
killed, which helped to furnish a genuine mountain- 
breakfast, the detail of which I shall give as a speci- 
men of the abundance here ; for I am with a family 
which, as I said, is considered to be but in moderate 
circumstances. 

First, sweet cake and milk were served ; then, on 
a clean wooden four-footed tray, a great mess of 
thick pasta, with a wooden bowl stuck in the midst, 
filled with a sauce of milk, walnut-oil, and capsi- 
cums ; and around the pasta on the tray (for there 
are no plates) was arranged pieces of the boiled kid, 
from which one of the sons helped me to the tit-bits. 
Next came a large bowl of grape-syrup and water, 
which was handed me as a specific for the digestion 
of fat meat; then succeeded a bowl of milk with 
pasta mixed in it; and I was already more than 
breakfasted, when there was served a large bowl of ex- 
cellent kid-broth, thickened with beans, &c, of which 
also I was obliged to taste. After me breakfasted 



RESIDENCE IN C1RCASSIA. 



33 



a Turkish stranger and my servant ; after them the 
father of the family, who, before he began, handed 
two large pieces of the kid to his Russian serf, and 
then the sons took the remains to their own house 
to breakfast there. 

Vardan, Thursday, 9flih. — I had written so far 
yesterday, when Meysurbi of Khissa, a very re- 
spectable-looking old man, was announced ; and, 
upon my being introduced to him, he said he would, 
if I pleased, send horses next morning to carry my- 
self, my servant, and luggage, to his hamlet ; for 
which kind offer I thanked him, and made my 
acceptance of it conditional upon my messenger find- 
ing Achmet absent or at home. But the old gentle- 
man had scarcely turned his back, when the other, 
who had attended our countryman Mr. S. throughout 
his journey the previous summer, was announced, and 
his frank, good-humoured manners and handsome 
and agreeable features prepossessed me at once in his 
favour. He came, numerously attended, to beg me 
to accompany him to his house ; and although I had 
wished, before moving anywhere, to finish the letters 
I intended to send by the Turkish vessel, this prompt 
attention* induced me to accept his offer, especially 
as he promised to send Meysurbi intimation of my 
having done so, and to bring Ali Achmet, prince of 
Sutsha, and other influential chiefs of the coast, to 
visit me. By distribution among the horses of his 
escort, he provided conveyance for all my luggage, 
which is still both bulky and ponderous. We had 
first to ford the river Subesh, which is so rapid, 
and was still so swoln by the late rain, that it re- 

VOL. I. D 



34 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



quired some management to get the loaded horses 
across in safety. We then took to the sea-beach, 
along which lay the remainder of our route — some 
sixteen miles. It was deep shingle all the way, 
but certainly preferable to any inland route, as we 
passed a continued range of hills, not of great eleva- 
tion, but so multiform and steep, that a road over 
them must be both long and difficult. Meysur- 
bi and his attendants joined us on the beach. 
At intervals we had a peep, between the hillocks 
on the shore, into some beautiful little valley, the 
hills of which are cultivated almost to their summits. 
Khissa, especially, seemed to me a little paradise ; 
and, on Meysurbi bidding me good-bye and enter- 
ing it, I could not but envy him. The great depth 
of excellent soil, displayed by the sections of the hil- 
locks toward the beach, attested the fertility of the 
neighbouring country. 

When we came within a few miles of Vardan, 
Achmet rode forward to make preparation for my 
reception; and on our entering his valley, equally 
beautiful with the others, one of his principal de- 
pendants turned round and bid me welcome to his 
territory. 

The valley of Vardan is bordered by low hills, 
partly wooded and much cultivated, and is closed in 
toward the east by high and densely-wooded hills, 
the loftiest of which is still capped with snow. The 
thermometer at noon to-day stood at 58°. The 
guest-house was again assigned to me, a bond of 
brotherhood between our host and myself was en- 
tered into; and then a plentiful warm supper was 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



35 



served. The clay walls of my house are still quite 
damp, and I think that the construction of it may 
have been the occupation which prevented my noble 
host from waiting upon me sooner. 

My room is about thirty feet long by twelve broad, 
and in other respects the same as that which I occu- 
pied at Subesh, excepting that the roof appears to be 
waterproof; that it is otherwise better finished ; that 
it has a small unglazed window, which may be closed 
by a shutter ; and that the divan extends right 
across one end of it, with the fire-place immediately 
adjoining. The walls above the divan are hung 
with beautifully-wrought mats, and a line of closely 
placed wooden pegs extends round the room, for 
hanging up the arms of visitors. The divan is 
furnished with one of the choicest of the mats, and 
dark-coloured silken cushions, and my bed on it, 
last night, was unexceptionable, as I had a soft mat- 
tress bordered with velvet, velvet pillows, a quilted 
silk coverlet, and, better than all, clean white sheet- 
ing. The only other furniture in the room is a 
bench placed across the lower end, for young men 
and persons of inferior rank ; while mats and 
cushions are ranged on the side opposite to that of 
the door, fire-place, and window, for the seniors and 
persons " of quality." 

I was agreeably surprised this morning at seeing 
a handsome travelling tea-service (of which two gilt 
spoons formed a conspicuous part) taken out of a 
small chest, and at being made partaker of some 
excellent tea, which our liberal host dealt round so 
freely to all present that his stock of sugar was soon 

d 2 



36 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



expended. Luckily I had it in my power to supply 
the deficiency. This tea-service was found on board 
a Russian vessel captured by the Circassians. Ach- 
met is a man of substance. He has no less than fifty- 
two persons on his establishment. He was the 
principal adventurer in freighting the Lord Charles 
Spenser, and his speculative turn seems as decided 
as ever. 

Friday, Wth.—Y was interrupted in my writing 
yesterday by an influx of visitors. Hassan Bey 
(brother of Hafiz Pasha) arrived early in the fore- 
noon with a numerous train, and in the course of the 
day many other chiefs came in from various quarters. 
The park and the guest-house were completely 
thronged, and every peg in the former had its 
complement of arms. With the exception of Hassan 
Bey, who carried a bow, every man (every boy I 
might say) had a rifle. The best of these, I am 
told, come from a district called Karatshai, towards 
the head of the Kuban. The gunpowder is manu- 
factured in the country : the nitre is extracted from 
a plant cultivated for the purpose. 

It seems that war is anticipated here as well as in 
the north. The Russians are reported to have drawn 
together a force of 15,000 men at Sukum-Kaleh, 
where Baron Rosen is expected from Tiflis to take 
the command. It is expected that they will attempt 
a descent at Mamai, about ten miles to the south of 
where I now am, and where there are the ruins of a 
Genoese fort and excellent anchorage for large ships. 

The Circassians apprehend no result from a de- 
scent at this point beyond the erection of a fort : 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



37 



they say the country is so difficult that they would 
not fear an attempt to penetrate into it by a force of 
100,000 Russians. 

I am given to understand that throughout this 
north-western region of the Caucasus the combi- 
nation of the tribes is complete. A permanent 
assembly of delegates is assembled in the neighbour- 
hood of the Kuban. The policy of Russia confirms 
the old members of the league in their hostility, and 
drives new ones into its ranks. Hassan Bey declares 
that his only wish is to see the power of Russia 
broken before he dies. He has strong personal mo- 
tives for this hatred. Some time ago he fell into 
the hands of the Russians, and they forced him — an 
independent and wealthy chief — to serve in their 
ranks as a common soldier for two years. A similar 
fate, Hassan tells me, has been awarded to hundreds of 
the princes and nobles of Daghestan who have fallen 
as prisoners into the hands of the Russians. Ab- 
dullah Bey of Daghestan, who recently passed 
through this country, on his way from Constanti- 
nople, is expected to return soon with a deputation 
of his countrymen for the purpose of concerting 
measures with the Circassians against the Russians. 
The Azras, in the neighbourhood of Sukum-Kaleh 
(the mirnie or friends of the Russians), have been 
irritated by a demand for a contingent of recruits ; 
and they, too, have made overtures for an alliance 
with the Circassians. One of the principal chiefs 
in the neighbourhood of Sukum, and one of his sons, 
hold nominal rank in the Russian army ; yet he 
has just sent another of his sons into this part of 



38 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



the country, in order that he may be out of the 
reach of Russian influence, and under the protection 
of Hassan Bey, the most inveterate enemy of the 
Russians. This young man brought fifteen serfs 
and a beautiful Georgian charger, as a present to 
Hassan Bey. He came to me with a message from 
the Bey, attended by another serf ; and, so primitive 
are the manners here, I have just seen master and 
man eating at the same table. 

Our visitors expressed the most lively satisfaction 
at my arrival ; esteeming it an additional proof that 
the English were really taking an interest in their 
affairs, and were likely to do something for them. 

After politics had been discussed we all adjourned 
into the park to see .the paces and points of the 
Georgian steed, and to try my telescopes. Mats were 
provided for those who wished to say their prayers. 
We had a horse-race too ; gained by a son of my 
host— a beautiful and gentle boy of twelve years. 
This young nobleman and I have become great 
friends, yet I could not succeed in inducing him to 
be seated on the divan beside me, even in the ab- 
sence of company, so habitual is the respect for 
strangers and seniority ! I have been much struck 
by the number of fine-looking men assembled. Their 
characteristics are, lofty stature ; great breadth 
of chest and brawniness of shoulder ; a thin flank ; 
a small foot, and keen lively eyes. It may justly be 
said here, " Man is the noblest growth this realm 
supplies." I cannot yet speak much from observa- 
tion of the women. 

After sunset and prayers, we had some meat and 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



39 



pasta. Just as the conversation grew languid, and 
we were dozing round the embers of a great wood 
fire, my attention was roused by something like 
music from the distant and shaded extremity of the 
room. It was the singing of a boy about four years 
old, accompanied by that of the man between whose 
knees he stood. What the words of the song were I 
knew not, but they soon roused all the rest of our 
large party and produced among it much laughter. 
To this succeeded a singular, yet very exciting quar- 
tett of men's voices. It was at times a sort of fugue, 
but I never heard anything resembling it, especially 
the occasional bass accompaniment. The copyright 
would be valuable in England, yet merely as a 
musical curiosity, for it was but as the wailing of 
infant music, though the subject was the deeds of 
men — a battle fought lately against the Russians. 

When the performance was finished, another, 
much longer, and more extraordinary, was begun by 
a tall, lank, hare-brained-looking personage (our 
host's brother-in-law), who had sat dozing and roast- 
ing close by the fire. He sang, in a falsetto voice, 
a very rapid recitation, and every few minutes three 
or four others, who sat behind in the shade, contri- 
buted a few fine tenor and bass notes, like the swell 
and fall of an organ. This long recitation recounted 
the charms of an extraordinary beauty of the Zazi- 
oku family, and the numerous suitors she had re- 
jected. It is in great vogue, although the heroine 
is now married. 

Thus passed our evening, till about half-past ten 
o'clock, when a plentiful supper was served, with - 



40 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



abundance of wine (or brandy, for those whose reli- 
gious scruples made them prefer it), and about mid- 
night, mats and bedding were brought in and laid on 
the floor for Hassan Bey and some eight or ten other 
chiefs, while they insisted on my retaining the whole 
of the divan. No titles are used here in conversa- 
tion : even dependants address their chiefs by what 
we call their christian names, and, as I have shown, 
occasionally eat with their sons ; yet perfect respect 
is never wanting. Invariably when a chief, or even 
small proprietor, enters a room, every one makes a 
movement of rising. If elderly, they rise entirely, 
and remain erect till he be seated. 

I have omitted to mention a remarkable honour 
paid me by our host yesterday evening. After 
prayers he and some witnesses (my dragoman among 
others) went to one of the out-houses where Achmet, 
with his own hand, sacrificed a bullock, in ratifica- 
tion of the bond of brotherhood between us, and I 
am told that I am now to be considered, in every 
respect, as one of his family, whom they are bound, 
as such, to esteem and protect. And a fine set of 
brothers — in addition to you in Britain — I see I have 
gotten ; for three of the five have been here to see 
me, and they appear very pleasant and clever men — 
all speaking Turkish fluently. One of them has 
consulted me about his face, which has become 
blotched, in consequence of his having rubbed it 
with snow when he was overheated. I hope my gentle 
prescription may be followed by his cure ; it has a 
very hale constitution on its side. Here, as at 
Subesh, I see I might if I pleased immediately enter 
on an extensive medical and surgical practice. 



RESIDENCE IN C1RCASSIA. 



41 



I have heard the nightingale this evening for the 
first time. Her placid song forms a pleasing con- 
trast to the wild cries of the jackal in the adjoining 
forests. 

Saturday, 29th. — The time for action has arrived, 
and I must bring this long and, I fear rambling 
letter to a conclusion, in the hope that you will make 
all allowance for the constant inconvenience and dis- 
turbance amidst which it has been written. 

Yesterday Hassan Bey and his numerous suite set 
forth for his present residence, about four hours' ride 
to the south of this place, having first arranged that 
this morning, if the weather were better, (it rained 
much yesterday, and pours at present,) I should pay 
him a visit, when he would procure the attendance 
of Beislam, Alibi, and other chiefs to the south- 
ward, and take me to see old Ali Achmet Bey, of 
Sutsha, who is ailing. He promised also to pro- 
cure me all the information in his power about 
the projected expedition of the Russians, and he 
expressed a hope that my presence just now would 
encourage his countrymen in their preparations to 
repel it. 

In the evening a very tall, strongly-built young 
man, with an acute expression of face, arrived alone, 
entered my room, and seated himself (at my sign for 
him to do so) so modestly, that — still Europeanised — 
I supposed he might be some inferior person. But I 
soon learned that he was Ali of Jubghe, one of the 
brothers Zazi-oku (of the noble Sept Karzek) who 

had received and entertained Mr. S with much 

kindness ; and that he had been accompanied, as far 



42 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



as Subesh, by five other influential individuals, who 
had come with him as a deputation to me from the 
northern provinces, where my arrival had been heard 
of, and had caused the greatest satisfaction and en- 
couragement. Ali stated that they had immediately 
despatched couriers to notify itin the more distant parts 
of the country. This step was necessary, because in 
these less-informed districts, a report had been spread, 
upon the Vixen's arrival, that a great English vessel 
was off the coast, loaded with cannon, powder, &c. ; 
and the subsequent report of her capture they looked 
upon as a proof that the Russians were not afraid 
even of the English. The consequence had been 
great discouragement. This, he said, the know- 
ledge of my arrival had already to a considerable 
extent removed, and my presence in the north 
"would make them as lions." 

For these reasons, he begged that I would proceed 
there as soon as possible ; for the Russians had 
taken the field, and the Circassians had already had 
three desperate engagements with them, in two of 
which they had been successful. His associates had 
remained at Subesh, and sent him forward to see 
rne and learn my movements, as they did not, they 
said, like to trespass upon the hospitality of Achmet 
— perhaps there may be other motives. I wished to 
set out immediately with this party toward the 
north ; but I found they had no horses, having come 
by sea ; and although that would be my easiest way, 
a journey by land will have, it is said, a more bene- 
ficial effect in exciting the people. 

Hassan and Achmet have both promised to furnish 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



43 



me horses and an escort ; but they are as urgent for 
me to remain here, and encourage the people, as Ali 
and his friends are for my presence in the north. 
Hassan and Achmet argue that if another English- 
man be so soon expected, it will be best that one 
should be in the north and another here. But Mr. 

L had not arrived when Ali set out ; and, in 

the north there is actual warfare, while here it is but 
expected. I have therefore determined to leave this 
in a few days. 

I presented Ali with a handsome English sabre for 
his assiduity in having travelled night and day, and 
as a proof to his friends of my arrival, which some of 
them doubted. He has returned to Subesh with an 
inhabitant of this valley, to learn whether his friends 
purpose coming here, or will be content with my 
promise to set out in a few days for the north. 
Meanwhile I must finish my letters, in order to send 
them to Jubghe by this deputation. They may 
be sent thence by another, which proceeds forthwith 
to Constantinople, to inform Daud Bey of the pre- 
sent posture of the affairs of the country, and has 
only been delayed until the nature of my mission 
was ascertained. 

Ali was lately a prisoner in the hands of the 
Russians, who wished to give him a high rank in 
their service, and make him the medium of cor- 
rupting his countrymen. For this purpose they sent 
him home, well supplied with money, and then em- 
ployed a spy to see what he had effected. He got 
their emissary put to death ; and when they, in re- 
venge, attacked his echelle with nine vessels and a 



44 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



large land force, he and his brothers, aided by the 
people of the neighbourhood, made use of two 
cannons and powder they had brought from Trebi- 
zond on purpose, and repulsed them from their shore 
with considerable slaughter. He was also lately 
surrounded near the Kuban, almost alone, by some 
twenty Russians, with whom he fought for some 
time, after having received seven wounds ; yet he 
eventually succeeded in making his escape, and in 
carrying prisoner with him a sub-officer, whom he 
still retains. Achmet says, that among themselves 
he is considered a very extraordinary man, as indeed 
his Herculean form must make him in any country. 

I have just been interrupted by a very substantial 
dinner, one incident of which I may notice as quite 
characteristic. A tumbler of wine was presented 
me, and, on my declining it, it was handed to the 
most ragged elderly serf who stood by, and to whom 
two of those who were seated at table handed at the 
same time some of the food they were eating ; after 
which a secoud tumbler of wine was s^iven him. 
Our host's young son helps to serve all who eat in 
the guest-house — both chiefs and their dependants. 
v Serfs, I am told, cannot be sold without their own 
consent ; and if their master ill-use them, they have 
the privilege of leaving him and choosing another. 
They consider it an advantage to be sold to the 
Turks, especially those of Constantinople, which, of 
course, is looked upon in this country as the great 
city. Hence the strong desire, especially among the 
females, to be sent there to try their fortune. 

These details are endless, and I must defer them 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 45 



till another opportunity, lest the messenger return 
for my letters ; but it rains very heavily, and I fear 
that the rivers are become impassable. My health is 
excellent, amid all the late bad weather and stinting 
of exercise. When these matters are remedied, I 
have hopes of acquiring a Circassian constitution, as I 
am already almost weather-proof. 

Sunday, 30th. — This day began beautifully ; and 
as the month of rain is now at an end, I hope the 
rain may be so also. Yesterday evening a person 
arrived from the neighbourhood of Sukum, and 
confirmed the previous intelligence of the Russians 
having created great irritation among the Azras, by 
having demanded recruits from them. The mes- 
senger returned late last night from Subesh, and 
said that he was nearly being carried away by that 
river. The deputation pass this day there, and then 
return to Jubghe ; I must therefore close and de- 
spatch this. Oh these medical cases ! I have just 
had a visit from my host's sister-in-law, to consult 
me about pains in her back, &c. ; and she brought 
with her another indisposed female, to participate in 
the supposed benefits of my advice. 

Evening. — Although very desirous, and doing all 
in my power, to leave this place to-day, in order to 
keep my appointment with the chiefs to the south- 
ward, and then proceed toward Sudjuk-kaleh, I find 
it impossible to depart before to-morrow, as Achmet 
says he sent all the horses to the hills to graze 
when the rain began yesterday, and that he cannot 
get them back sooner. It may be so ; but his cha- 



46 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



racter now appears to me a little bizarre, and I 
cannot help thinking that I am detained, either to 
postpone my departure for the north, or in order 
that he may have time to work out of me some 
articles among my presents he has set his heart 
upon. It seems to me that he gives, and expects 
others to give, with equal thoughtless liberality. I 
have had some small proofs of each, — in his giving 
at once to his brother, at his request, his sabre, and 
a handsome suit of clothes he wore; and in his de- 
manding each morning from me — besides many little 
articles among my stock of presents, few of which I 
have refused him — a supply from my limited stock 
of sugar, which, with tea, he serves round lavishly to 
his guests and retainers, as if we had a grocery shop 
in the neighbourhood. He appears to enjoy the 
entire attachment of his dependants, while living 
among them with much familiarity ; and he per- 
sonifies completely my ideas of a gallant partisan- 
captain. His brothers and he possess the character 
of the most dauntless intrepidity. On his showing 
me some tolerable white wine, I asked what might 
be its value. He replied that he did not know — 
that when the wine in any house was finished, they 
sent and got a supply from a neighbour. 



LETTER III. 



TRANSIENT VISIT TO THE SOUTHERN CHIEFS, AND 
JOURNEY NORTHWARD. 

Sijtcha, Tuesday, 2nd May. 

My dear . — You may think my narrative 

too full of minute details. My motive in not omitting 
to record anything, however trifling in itself, is that I 
suspect when I become more accustomed to the man- 
ners of this country, and when my attention is occu- 
pied with more important matters, many little traits 
which serve to illustrate the character of the natives 
will escape my notice. I have therefore resolved to 
omit nothing. If you really desire to know this 
people, you will not be annoyed at my determination. 

Yesterday morning, after an early breakfast, I set 
out for this place, accompanied by Achmet, his son, 
and some of his people. Our road, as formerly, lay 
along the beach. During the first hour's ride, there 
is a narrow tract of rolling ground, rich and culti- 
vated, between the sea and the hills. Afterwards 
the cliffs approach close to the sea. On rounding 
a small promontory* the beautiful bay of Mamai 
opened to view. It seemed clothed with trees to 
the water's edge, with wooded hills of various forms 
rising inland, and behind these a line of peaked and 
snow-clad mountains (part of the great range, 
stretching toward Gaghra, where they terminate). 
In the present circumstances of the country, I could 



48 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



not but look with great satisfaction towards that 
vast barrier to invasion. 

The bay of Mamai had been repeatedly spoken of 
to me as an excellent and safe harbour for large 
ships ; but it did not appear to be one in which 
they could long remain with safety, as the angle 
is much too obtuse. It faces toward the south-west. 
I have, however, since been assured that the anchor- 
age-ground is so good, and the sea-winds blow home 
with so little force (owing to the height of the hills 
a little way inland), that large vessels can remain 
there without any danger. This is the reason why 
the Circassians apprehend an attack upon this part 
of the coast, similar to that which was inflicted 
upon the territory of Beislam of Ardler, of which 
I shall speak presently. 

Passing the headland mentioned above, I found 
the shingle of the beach almost covered with large 
fragments of variegated sand-stone, fragments of a 
portion of the hill which hung over us, crested with 
luxuriant trees, which had been undermined by the 
sea. The strata thus laid bare were numerous and 
placed at a slightly inclined angle, above which the 
soil appeared deep and rich. We then came to the 
river Terampse, the largest, after the Subesh, of any 
I have seen on this coast. It appeared too deep 
for fording at its mouth ; we therefore left the beach, 
and following a pathway through the forest on the 
banks of the stream, soon came in sight of a magni- 
ficent landscape — a rich valley (though not of great 
extent) in the midst of which towers a lofty cone- 
shaped hill, many of the adjacent hills having the 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



49 



same, or yet more striking forms, all clothed with 
luxuriant forest, while a ridge of snowy peaks glit- 
tered in the distance. This valley, stream, and hills, 
form together one of those masterpieces of nature, 
which even painting can scarcely represent. The 
natives were busy tilling the soil— a deep dark loam 
— with flat arrow-shaped ploughshares that only 
scratched the surface ; the handles, too, are almost 
perpendicular, and consequently so short that the 
ploughman has but little power. 

On returning to the beach, a precipitous bank 
succeeded, of eighty to ninety feet in elevation, 
which, with the exception of a few strata of stones, 
appeared an entire mass of soil, an immense block 
of which had been undermined by the sea, and lay 
with all its trees in ruin on the beach, obliging us to 
wade round the projection it had formed. It con- 
sists chiefly of a stiff blue clay, which another crop 
of trees was already about to cover. Beyond this 
ruin I saw some blocks of compact masonry lying on 
the beach, and looking upwards, discovered amid the 
foliage traces of a long solid wall. I was told that 
these were the remains of a Genoese fortress, and 
that there are inscriptions on some of the stones, 
which I purpose inspecting when I return from the 
north. 

The precipitous shore was succeeded by rolling 
ground, covered with gigantic forest, except at one 
point, to which I was conducted, and informed that 
here the descent of the Russians was expected to be 
made. It was a small grassy plateau at the termina- 
tion of the valley or rather glen of Psikha, or Mamai. 

VOL. I. E 



50 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



Along the face of this plateau, and up a portion of 
the higher shore to the south-east, the Circassians 
have constructed six or eight rude, yet not inefficient 
breastworks. Some of them consist of a double row 
of strong stakes, driven into the ground and compactly 
hurdled together, the interval being filled with 
stones and earth, above which are placed large trees 
to protect the heads of the tirailleurs, while space 
enough is left beneath for their rifles. Others are 
mere ditches for the warriors to stand in, with a log 
laid in front for their further protection, with 
notches all along for their rifles. 

On leaving Mamai we again took to the shore, 
but soon turned to the left and entered a wood of 
most magnificent beeches. The pathway eastward 
through this forest was deep with mire, and traversed 
such rugged ravines, barred by fallen trees, that it 
seemed to me well that I was mounted on a Circas- 
sian horse unused to the luxuries of a turnpike-road. 
Half-an-hour of such riding sufficed to bring us to 
a small hamlet surrounded by a strong fence and 
situated on the slope of a beautiful green hill. 
Here Hassan Bey resides at present, while his houses 
at Khissa are undergoing repairs. He received me 
with great cordiality. The guest-house, though 
similar to the others in arrangement, is small, in- 
convenient, and badly finished; but Hassan and 
our host have prepared me a most comfortable 
divan, on which I was seated but a short time 
when a plentiful hot repast, with abundance of wine 
and brandy, was served up. 

A great valley to the eastward having been men- 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



51 



tioned during the repast, I expressed a wish to see 
it ; and at the close, Hassan took me to the top of 
a small hill in the neighbourhood, whence I had a 
magnificent and beautiful panoramic view. To the 
north-west were green hills decked with hamlets, the 
forest of giant beeches and a glimpse of the ocean, 
converted at the moment, by the setting sun, into a 
sheet of burnished gold ; to the south-east, lay the 
valley of the Sutsha with its silvery stream, its 
luxuriant pastures, vineyards, orchards and hamlets, 
girt closely by hills apparently quite as fertile, above 
which rose others more densely wooded, until walled 
in by the rugged masses of the central range, with 
their glittering mantles of snow. A conical hill, 
just beyond the Sutsha, was pointed out to me as 
the boundary of the territory of the Adighes or Cir- 
cassians ; and a hill was shown to the north-eastward, 
in the vicinity of which iron had recently been 
found. I was told also that, on the opposite side of 
the Sutsha, was a cold spring strongly impregnated 
with sulphur. The valley appeared to me to have 
been brought into good condition by being cleared 
of enough of its timber to admit of cultivation and 
grazing for the support of the numerous hamlets in 
and around it ; but I was told that many inhabitants 
of the district (they are estimated at 5000) were 
leaving it and moving towards Mamai, for the sake 
of a greater supply of wood — such is the profusion 
with which it is consumed and the difficulty of trans- 
port in this neighbourhood. 

I have had a good deal of conversation with Has- 
san Bey (who appears better informed than any person 

e2 



52 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



I have yet seen) on the conditions and prospects of 
his country, which he admits to be much in want of 
good government. He argues that at first, at least, 
its chief should be an Englishman, at all events a 
foreigner, who could rule with some severity in 
order to bring the inhabitants — especially those 
toward the south — into habits of greater regularity. 
I agreed with him to a certain extent, but expressed 
a hope that they might find means of improving and 
strengthening their self-government. 

I have been much vexed to find an Armenian from 
Tiflis, of a very sinister expression of countenance, 
on terms of great familiarity with all here; so that 
my endeavours to keep him apart from our conversa- 
tions were often got the better of through his intrusive- 
ness or their facility. According to his own account 
he has, in the course of a few years, realised about 
£2000 out of the generosity of these people — in the 
following extraordinary manner : — Every three or 
four months he goes into the Russian dominions or 
to Constantinople (where the Russians are almost 
equally paramount), and purchases a stock of goods 
which he distributes in presents among his friends 
here. After allowing some time to elapse, he waits 
upon each object of his generosity, and demands a 
present in return, which, he says, is always of much 
greater value than what he gave. Latterly he 
has, in company with a Mussulman, begun to pur- 
chase young ladies for Constantinople, and has now 
eight of these, waiting his departure. This depar- 
ture shall not, if I can help it, take place soon. 
I have had a long conversation with Hassan Bey 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASS1A. 



53 



upon the folly of permitting this person, in the 
present posture of affairs, to pass and repass to the 
Russian or Turkish territory, where, doubtless, one 
who drives such a trade as he does, makes a trade 
also of the information he acquires regarding the state 
of Circassia, and thus obtains permission to violate 
the Russian sanitary laws. Hassan has promised to 
have him detained in the mean while ; but I fear 
that the cunning of the Armenian may get the better 
of the distrust I have endeavoured to create among 
his confiding friends. 

The family-house here is at a very short distance 
from that allotted for guests— only a slight hurdle 
screen intervenes. I have had only a dim and occa- 
sional glimpse of the ladies yet. But they have sent 
me a specimen in Hassan's daughter, a lively girl of 
four years, very smartly dressed in orange-coloured 
muslin turban, trousers, and vest, with wide white 
sleeves, gaily flowered with silk and golden threads. 

Hassan told me that his family was originally from 
Turkey, and that he has no pretension to be ranked 
among the native chiefs, although his fortune may 
bear comparison with that of most of them. I have 
seen some evidence that it is substantial. Yesterday 
evening we had tea and refined sugar in a service of 
gilt china, — a handsome brass urn supplying the 
water. An abundant supper of excellent Turkish 
cookery succeeded, and was graced by handsome 
ivory-handled knives and forks, and massive plated 
candlesticks, as well as very passable native white 
wine, and still better native brandy, both of which 
were lavishly circulated among the numerous guests. 



54 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



And in return for some presents I made him and his 
lady, he has forced upon„me (for, thinking of the 
Armenian, I really felt unwilling to accept anything) 
a Georgian priming-horn and cartouche-box, hung by 
ten massive chains, with chased and gilt plates of 
silver ; praying me, at the same time, to return and 
spend as long time as I pleased with him at his house 
at Khissa, which, he assures me, I shall find more 
commodious than the one he is at present lodged in. 
The latter truly accords ill with the things I have just 
mentioned, as it is a very humble thatched, hurdle- 
clayed cot. He has, moreover, shown me a saddle 
covered with Russian leather and chased silver-gilt 
ornaments, and a bridle as gaily decked, forming one 
of fifteen similar sets, which, with a like number of 
horses, he is about to present to the Azra chief whose 
son brought him the Georgian steed and fifteen serfs. 

Haji, Thursday, 4>th May. — Early on Tuesday 
morning, while we were at breakfast, old Ali Achmet, 
the prince of Sutsha, whom I have mentioned above, 
arrived by appointment to see me. It would have 
been bad manners in him, notwithstanding his rank, 
to have interrupted my breakfast, so he had his 
served at fresco, on a grassy hillock. After the 
usual compliments, I communicated to him the 
object of my present visit to the country, which he 
learned with great satisfaction, and then expressed 
'a strong hope that England might soon interfere in 
their favour, as this long-continued war pressed very 
hardly upon them. He said, (Hassan Bey previously 
made the same remark,) England and the other 
powers of Europe had interfered in behalf of Greece, 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



55 



(Russia, be it always remembered, having been the 
instigator,) although that country had not fought for 
its liberty a quarter of the time that Circassia had. 
" The Russians/' he added, " cannot conquer this 
country: they may, by means of their ships and 
cannon, possess themselves of some more points on 
our coast ; but granting they could gain the whole 
of it, that shall make no difference in our determi- 
nation to resist to the last ; for if they gain these 
hills, we will retire," said the old chief, pointing 
eastward, " to these snowy mountains and fight 
them." I gave him what hope I could of England 
becoming sensible of the justice of their claim, 
exhorting him to keep up the courage of his country- 
men in the mean while, and then begged him to 
excuse my present hurried visit to this part of the 
country, as my chief errand was to the actual seat of 
war in the north. 

I was next requested to prescribe for the old gentle- 
man, which I did to the best of my knowledge ; but 
I fear my directions will not be observed, as they 
consisted chiefly of restrictions on his food and drink, 
an over-indulgence in which I thought the cause of his 
ailment. On bidding him farewell, I presented him 
(at Hassan's suggestion), on account of his public 
spirit, with an English double-barrelled fowling-piece, 
with which, I am told, he was much gratified. This 
is the chief who is mentioned (in the Portfolio) as 
having been offered a large sum of money by the 
Russians if he would allow an army to pass unmo- 
lested along the shore. He took the money, distri- 
buted it among his neighbours, and then assembling 



56 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



a body of Circassians, drove the Russians back with 
great carnage. 

After this interview, I set out from Sutsha on my 
return to Vardan, escorted by Hassan and Achmet, 
their sons and dependants, and we formed when we 
debouched on the beach a gallant-looking and lively 
cavalcade. At intervals, some of the party (chiefs, as 
well as others) started forward in a horse-race, during 
which if any one chanced to lose his bonnet, another 
behind instantly fired his pistol or rifle at it, I ad- 
mired particularly the despatch with which Achmet's 
young son unslung, uncovered, and discharged his rifle 
at the fallen bonnet of one but a very short distance 
before him, both being at the moment at full gallop. 
Hassan Bey elevated his bonnet on the point of his 
sabre as a mark for the rifle of some one on horseback 
behind him. In short, the use of their fire-arms 
en route is almost incessant, and seems to prove 
that here, at least, there is no scarcity of gunpowder, 

I learn that, last year, not long before the time of 

Mr. S -'s arrival, the Circassians, in three parties 

of about one hundred and fifty each, attacked and 
stormed the fort of Gaghra, killing or making 
prisoners of the garrison. As they returned, after 
this exploit, carrying their dead and wounded in their 
boats, some Russian vessels, with troops on board, 
approached to attack the echette of Beislam Bey at 
Ardler. But the Circassians, intrenched behind for- 
tifications similar to those I have described at 
Mamai, repelled them without the loss of a single 
man, while the Russians lost in killed and wounded 
about seventy. 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



57 



At Mamai we again rested a while, and again 
made trial of the paces of the Georgian steed, which 
Hassan Bey appears to have always led about with 
him unmounted. He says he purposes sending it to 
Constantinople as a present to Daud Bey, whose 
name and character seem universally known to the 
men and even boys of this country. Here, too, we 
had an inspection of sword-blades, about which the 
Circassians seem as curious as my friend Mr. B. 
about Cremonas ; and some of those shown appeared 
to me (though little of a virtuoso) genuine Toledos, 
especially Achmet's, which had quite a silvery lustre, 
and a Spanish cavalier and " Ad major em gloriam 
Dei 99 engraved upon it. Another had also a Spanish 
cavalier, a dedication to God [what reflections these 
blasphemies suggest !] and " Anno 1664." The 
antiquity of the blade was further attested by its 
being worn, like Burns's pen, "to the gristle." 

Yesterday morning, I wished to have left Vardan 
early : but Achmet seemed so unwilling to furnish 
me with the means of setting out, that I considered 
myself fortunate when, about midday, Hasesh, one of 
the deputies from the North (who had determined to 
wait and take me with them), and my energetic friend 
Achmajan, arrived and enabled me to depart. We 
reached this lovely valley about an hour before 
sunset, and there found Kehri-ku Shamuz, another of 
the deputies, who had been on his way to Vardan to 
seek me, but had been obliged to stop by sickness. 
He is a tall, spare, well-formed old gentleman, with a 
beard white as the snow, an ample forehead, a keen 
hazel eye, and a lively yet somewhat sarcastic ex- 



58 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



pression of countenance. His dress consists of white 
cotton anteri and pantaloons, a dark brown surtout 
trimmed with silver lace, and a cap of black lamb's 
wool. He is, I understand, one of the most influ- 
ential of the noble and powerful sept Tshupako. He 
begged me to doctor him, which I did, and I had 
immediately other applications on the part of our 
host, his wife, and friend ; but that incurable malady, 
old age, seemed their only ailment. A loose tooth 
was one of the cases ! 

The valley of Haji is about a mile long, of an 
oblong shape, stretching from south to north, and 
terminated in the latter direction by several high 
cone-shaped hills, wooded to their summits. As I 
approached them, after having passed a deal of very 
well-ploughed (and cross-ploughed, hoed, and raked) 
land — entered upon a meadow enclosed by substan- 
tial fences, graced by many stately walnut-trees, and 
intersected by the clear and rapid Haji — and saw, on 
my left, a wood of standard trees for the support of 
most luxuriant vines — I could not help imagining 
that at the base of these hills I should find the 
stately mansion of the fortunate proprietor of this 
" happy valley." Proceeding further, I espied, at the 
foot of the hills, a small green paddock enclosed by 
an inner fence, and having, on one side, three very 
tidy clay cottages and some out-houses. Everything 
I have seen convinces me that the proprietor, how- 
ever far behind him of Holkham, is, in these parts, 
the first of rural economists. Soon after our arrival, 
the ladies sent to the guest-house a bowl of nuts, 
walnuts, chesnuts, and raisins, to amuse us till the 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



59 



hour of supper arrived ; and a good substantial 
supper it proved when it came. 

Subesk, Thursday Evening. — We left Haji this 
morning after an early and excellent breakfast, and 
were escorted out of the valley by our kind old host 
and about twenty of his neighbours. On arriving 
here, I found Khadir and his vessel both snugly 
berthed, the former in a compactly-wattled hut con- 
structed expressly for him and his men, and the 
schooner close at hand shored high and dry. Khadir 
has found that the Russian gunners aimed better 
than I gave them credit for, as they struck his vessel 
six times — twice in the sails, twice in the cordage, 
and two shots grazed the stern. Old Khadir, to do 
him justice, stood manfully to his helm throughout 
the chase ; and latterly his sailors — especially Osman, 
the mate and chaplain — behaved very well. 

Achamish Hadji Ali. a very fine-looking old man, 
arrived from the south, a little ago, to pay his respects 
to me. The attendants, as usual, ran and relieved 
him of his arms. When he entered, I rose and shook 
hands with him, and then motioning for him to be 
seated on the divan, on the opposite side of the fire, 
showed him the example by seating myself. I 
thought, from his lack of silver trimming, that he 
might not be of the nobility, and that this was the 
cause of his backwardness in accepting my offer ; or, 
that, as a stranger, custom entitled me to be first 
seated. But herein I committed a breach of man- 
ners ; for although a greater stranger here than the 
old man, and although ranked in the estimation of 
the people above their highest nobles, it was not 



60 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA, 



sufficient that I showed him a seat ; I ought to have 
remained standing until he accepted it, as old men, of 
whatever rank, have here always this respect paid them. 
This lesson has been given me by Zazi-oku Ali, 
whom I have requested to instruct me in what I am 
still ignorant of the manners of the country. He 
gave me an opportunity of making this request by 
apologising for the inferiority of Circassian manners 
in comparison with those of England ! * 

My servant has just informed me that the chiefs 
from the north having learned the particulars of Ach- 
met's behaviour, which they think has been wanting in 
respect and attention, are quite furious against him, 
and that they propose to send a man to reproach him 
and demand restitution of what presents I may have 
given him ; as they fear much, if I report his conduct 
to Daud Bey, the English may change their opinion 
of the Circassians generally. They say he was known 
before to be a man of bad character, and that it was 
most unlucky that I fell into his hands. I have sent 
to allay their fears about the English condemning all 
for the faults of one, and to prevent any further ex- 
plosion of their friendly wrath. Achmet has deceived 
and annoyed me greatly ; but I must bide my time 
for showing my opinion of his conduct, and acquire, 
in the mean while, greater insight into the motives 
by which both he and those in whose hands I now 
am are actuated. 



* Those who have travelled in the East will know the value of any 
hint in regard to manners — an ignorance of which will mar the influence 
of any one, however well disposed and well qualified he may otherwise 
be. 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



61 



On our arrival here, we found the sea too high to 
admit of our proceeding immediately by the boat 
which had brought the deputies, especially as there 
are fourteen persons, besides luggage, to go by her. 
After having waited on the shore about an hour to 
see if the wind would abate, it was resolved that we 
must adjourn for the night to the hamlet in which 
the deputies have lodged while here. We set out on 
foot, as the horses we had from Haji had been re- 
turned ; and I could not but admire the energy of old 
Kehri-ku, who, unwell as he still is, set off to catch 
a horse, which was feeding in a field we passed 
through, for me to ride upon. Of course I prevented 
him. Our path lay up a valley (or rather glen) im- 
mediately to the north of that in which I lived when 
here before. So narrow is it, that from the height 
on which this hamlet is perched, it seems as if I 
could leap in half-a-dozen springs from the one hill- 
foot to the other. Between them a sparkling rivulet 
brawls through bright green pastures to the sea, of 
which the intervening hills allow only a glimpse. 

Friday, 5th. — I fear we may be detained here by 
the illness of old Shamuz, who has caught fever and 
ague from getting wet and sleeping in an open shed 
upon the shore ; and, so little experience has he of 
disease, that I cannot prevail on him to use precau- 
tion, and to refrain from going out, dressed only in 
his cottons, during the cold winds and thunder- 
showers we have had this morning. He has taken 
my medicines, but does not trust to them alone ; for 
he drew from his pocket a small bunch of slips of 
paper, with texts of the Koran written on them, and 



62 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



gathering together some embers of the fire, placed 
upon them a couple of the papers, and, with the bed- 
clothes gathered over his head, had it well fumigated 
with devotion. 

Mesgahu, Saturday, 6th — I had not finished the 
above paragraph, about being detained by the illness 
of Shamuz, when there was a call to embark ; and 
before I had time to express my fear about the im- 
prudence of his putting to sea in an open boat in his 
state of health in such weather, he had set out the 
first of all. 

We embarked about mid-day. The wind was 
from the southward of east, and came down the glens 
we passed in such squalls, as obliged us to dispense 
altogether with our largest sail (the boom of which, 
on this coast of forests, was heaved overboard), and 
to keep a good look-out upon the other. There was 
not, it is true, much danger of capsizing ; for, in ad- 
dition to our party of fourteen, there was the mer- 
chandize of one of the passengers from Sinope, whom 
Ali knew and good-naturedly accommodated. But 
there was great risk, had the sea continued to rise, 
from our gunwale being within about nine inches of 
the water. We kept close in-shore, lest we should 
be swamped before we could reach it, if any accident 
happened. 

During two hours' sailing (at the rate of about 
four miles per hour), we passed hills terminating 
abruptly on the beach, much wooded, and partially 
cultivated. About two p.m. w T e approached what 
had appeared from a distance to be a long low pro- 
montory, but which proved to be but a tract of the 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



63 



coast, between the hills and the sea, which, in the 
course of time, may have been reduced to its present 
level by the large stream Wa'ia, whose impetuosity 
was indicated by the precipitous and lofty hills that 
close up its glen towards the east. Before arriving 
here, we had to land four of our people to lighten 
the boat, as she began to ship seas. We had also 
some very heavy showers, after which the sky cleared, 
and the wind getting more to the southward, I 
enjoyed the view of the coast exceedingly ; for 
although the rowing, even with the most favourable 
wind, was almost incessant, it called forth no sym- 
pathy for the rowers, as it seemed rather amusement 
than labour to these sinewy, energetic Circassians, 
who sung, almost without intermission, (to the lead- 
ing of their captain, Ali,) a great variety of their 
beautiful rowing chants. But this measured hand- 
ling of their oars was repeatedly interrupted by bursts 
of enthusiastic labour, amid screams, and a sort of 
mad-like laughter. 

After passing Waia, the hills become less wooded, 
and apparently less fertile (though still at least 
equally cultivated), and continue so for the next 
twelve or fourteen miles. At half-past four we 
passed a river called Ashe; at a little after five, 
another called Makupse (both small streams, espe- 
cially the latter) ; and at half-past six, word was 
given for running the boat ashore, at the mouth of 
a third small stream, called Shepse. But with the 
surf then breaking on the beach, and our still heavy 
lading, this was a matter of no small difficulty, and 
called forth our noble captain's mettle and stentorian 



64 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



voice to order it aright. One of the lively young 
" ghillies" (all of whom had stripped for the task) 
leaped overboard as soon as we approached the breakers, 
and, swimming through them, was ready to direct 
the stem of the boat when it approached. In short, 
all got well to land but myself, whom, by way of 
most honouring, they mounted on the shoulders of 
one of the men, before we were far enough in for 
him to be able to stand steadily ; in consequence of 
which he broke down under me, and I had to wade 
ashore in my jack-boots as I best could. And here 
was no cheerful hostelry-fire to dry oneself at. Owing 
to this coast- warfare, the dwellings are all at a dis- 
tance from the sea. Here, however, and indeed 
wherever Turkish vessels come, two substantial open 
wooden sheds are erected, for the immediate accom- 
modation of passengers and goods. Of these two 
sheds we now took possession, — we of the quarter- 
deck and our things being deposited in one, and the 
rowers, with the kitchen furniture, in the other. 
Two immense fires of drift-wood (which is abundant 
along the whole shore) were soon blazing between us, 
over one of which the immense pasta-cauldron was 
slung ; and on this pasta (without even salt to season 
it), a morsel of hard white cheese, and a veritable 
soupe-maigre of Turkey corn and haricots, we made 
our simple yet hearty supper ; and if you had better 
dishes that evening in London, perhaps T liad the 
better appetite ! 

I am sorry to find that, in addition to Shamuz, 
another elderly chief, — Navruz, uncle of Ali, and 
one of the deputies, whom I had not seen till embark- 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



6.5 



ing, — has also been seized by fever, owing to the 
same cause. This is the end of the rainy season, 
and, from what I have heard, I infer that fever pre- 
vails much during its continuance. 

The process of getting to bed was a very simple 
matter. The sick chiefs stretched themselves on the 
ground beside the fire, the more ailing of the two 
with the merchant's mat beneath him ; and Shamuz 
wrapt in his felt cloak. My remonstrances regarding 
this and other matters (such as his wading into the 
sea to help the boat ashore) avail nothing ; the 
old chief replies, "I am a soldier, and young yet, 
though my beard be white." And a most gallant 
and active warrior they say he is — always among the 
foremost wherever the Russians present themselves. 
I have learned here with regret, that Alibi of Semez, 
one of the very best chiefs for courage and conduct 
in the war on the Kuban, and for whom one of my 
choicest presents was destined, has been killed lately. 
When he fell, his son, a youth of fourteen, who w T as 
fighting by his side, dismounted to carry off his father's 
body; but the Russian cavalry, with their sabres, soon 
stretched him beside it. His loss is said to be se- 
verely felt throughout the north. 

By daylight this morning we arose from our earthen 
and wooden couches, and after eating some of the cold 
pasta and some hard-boiled eggs (brought by a person 
of the neighbourhood who had discovered by the fires 
overnight that there were some strangers on the 
beach), we again launched our boat and started from 
Shepse about half-past six. In little more than an 
hour we arrived opposite a large bay and valley, called 

VOL. I. F 



66 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



Toapse. This is said to be a populous and wealthy 
neighbourhood. From beyond Makupse the hills 
have again become woody and fertile. We found in 
the bay of Toapse one of Hassan Bey's three vessels 
which he employs in trading to Constantinople. It 
had but lately arrived, and we saw the Circassians on 
shore busily carrying away its goods in w r aggons. 

To the west of Toapse is a promontory of about 
half a mile, named Aguadshe, which must prove a 
gem to any geologist who visits it. Its strata are at all 
sorts of angles, and some of them vertical. The outer 
rocks form a basin in which a little hill is contained ; 
while at the northern base of the promontory are 
some rocks with the sides of their strata to the sea 
(instead of having their edges, like all the rest, south- 
ward) ; and a large portion of one of these had, at a 
distance, the appearance of well-wrought hurdle-work. 
This part of the coast is said to be, at particular sea- 
sons, the resort of millions of fishes. Our rowers, on 
passing it, struck up an animated song to the " king 
of the fishes," in which Ali and others joined. Here 
too is said to harbour, in the caves of the rocks, an 
animal they called " the bear of the sea." From the 
description, it does not appear to be the seal ; but 
what it really is I cannot yet find out. 

In the forests which clothe the greater portion of 
all the hills within eye-range, the oak appeared to 
predominate ; but in this neighbourhood the walnut 
tree is said to abound. As for boxwood —of which, 
it is said, the coast to the southward can furnish 
almost unlimited supplies of the very finest quality — 
the region of its production terminates near Wai'a. 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



67 



About half-past nine we passed another small bay 
called Nibii ; and an hour afterwards, five of us, among 
whom was old Shamuz, landed for the purpose of 
walking to lighten the boat. Our walk at first lay 
along the beach, and then struck off among the hills 
and woods (almost all fine oak), where the paths be- 
came so steep and deep with mire, that it was with no 
small gratification we accepted the loan of the horses 
of Khamti (one of the Sinope passengers), whom we 
overtook. At twelve o'clock we again came in sight 
of the sea, and found our boat beached in this small 
creek, and our merchant in despair at the sea having 
spoiled his goods, which he was spreading on the 
shingle to dry. 

Jubghe, Monday, 8//z. — We made a merry Satur- 
day night of it at Mesgahu. We had not intended 
to stop there, as the hamlets are remote from the 
shore ; but the heavy sea made further progress 
dangerous. Ali, who is full of life and activity, set 
forth, almost immediately on landing, to find the 
habitations of the natives and cater for us ; and in 
process of time he returned, accompanied by a troop 
of men and boys, with a goat, milk, honey, &c, 
which furnished forth a most abundant and excellent 
repast ; and by the time it was ready, our " ghillies," 
who are as expert in wood-craft as any Kentuckian, 
had erected two sylvan booths, and covered them with 
our sails. The two sick chiefs occupied one of these, 
and we who were hale the other ; while two immense 
fires blazed in the space between us, and tempered 
the chilliness of the evening sea-breeze. A third, 
the kitchen fire, with couches of grass and fern, fur- 



68 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



nished all the accommodation required by our hardy 
boatmen. 

Before supper, however, two events occurred which, 
though not exactly of equal importance, seem both to 
deserve mention : — The first was the shaving of my 
head, for the purpose of making me look less out- 
landish, at the request of two of the chiefs, and by 
the hands of one of them — -no despicable barber ; 
the second, the incidental mention by Ali that a 
considerable quantity of iron had been made on the 
other side of a small hill, which borders the little 
creek on which we are (as the Americans say) 
" camped out." Though it was almost dark, I im- 
mediately set out to examine the stone, of which I 
found abundant specimens near the surface of a 
loose black soil. The specimens appeared to me 
very ponderous and rich in metal. This iron bed is 
deposited in a basin of what appeared to me to be 
red sand-stone. From the converging dip of the 
rocks where they appear on the opposite sides of the 
bed, I infer that they meet below the iron-stone, and 
that this deposit rests upon the sand-stone. 

After supper — which we discussed amid a great 
gathering of servitors and spectators — I began to 
think how the remainder of the evening was to be 
got through, and was pleased to see a circle formed, 
preparatory for some amusement. First, there was 
a measured clapping of hands ; then succeeded a few 
low notes, which gradually swelled into a lively tune, 
joined in by most of those standing around ; and 
at length one of the wildest-looking of the " ghillies" 
- — with a long, tattered great-coat, a-V irlandaise — 



RESIDENCE IN C1RCASSIA. 



69 



took courage, and starting into the open space beside 
the fires, began dancing. Louder singing and clap- 
ping of hands, mingled with shouts and screams, 
soon excited him to such vigorous activity as must 
have pleased even " Tarn o' Shanter." Many of the 
steps were tolerable ; but the chief feat was springing 
on the very points of the toes, and spinning round 
with great velocity. At the end of one of these 
pirouettes, the dancer fell flat on the grass, and, with 
a strange ventriloquial sound, vented moans of com- 
plaint, as if he had half killed himself. His very clever 
buffoonery which followed I need not attempt to de- 
scribe, because I have no doubt that his impromptus, 
which I did not understand, but which raised shouts 
of laughter from all around, formed the best part of 
it. Yet his imitations of a cat, a cur, &c, were 
excellent in their way ; and he enjoyed the usual 
privilege of buffoons, as he approached the booths 
and addressed the nobles in speeches that excited 
much mirth, which he further increased by giving 
Ali, whose serf he is, two or three sound whacks over 
the shoulders with a stick. My Herculean friend re- 
ceived them in the spirit of fun in which they were 
bestowed by the actor. I had amused myself during 
our sailing with making this lad grin, to excite 
" the laughing devil in his eye" — one of the most 
extraordinary I have ever seen. 

When the performance was over, I gave the donor 
of the goat a small present (unlooked for by him). 
He and his troop of neighbours then set forth for 
their respective homes, bearing torches of pine- wood 
which glimmered with fine scenic effect among the 



70 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



pathways of the forest, and formed a fit finale to our 
drama. Side by side we then stretched ourselves on 
lairs of fern, and, with our more vital parts scantily 
sheltered by our booth from the night-dew, and our 
feet projecting towards the replenished night-fires, 
enjoyed a short and sound repose. 

Yesterday morning, while the stars still shone, Ali's 
shouts to his boatmen roused us all from our ferny- 
couches. Shamuz, who had performed his ablutions 
at a little stream, and said his morning prayers on 
the beach, was among the first who were ready. The 
boat was launched and loaded and we well on our way 
before sunrise. With the sunrise came a fine breeze 
from the southward, and in an hour we reached a 
snug bay and lovely valley named Tu, where there 
is said to be good shelter and anchorage close in-shore 
for large vessels, and a rich and very populous neigh- 
bourhood. In another hour we were opposite the 
bay and valley of Neghipsikwa ; and in half an hour 
more we passed a great cliff, on the north west of 
which is a remarkably beautiful bay called Kluf, 
where the shelter from the southward and eastward, 
near the shore at least, appeared excellent. 

From this point the coast trends much more to the 
westward ; consequently our southerly wind came to 
blow more directly on shore, and in such varying and 
hard squalls, that, although eager to get on, I was 
well pleased when Ali determined to land, as his 
boat-management throughout had given me a higher 
opinion of his courage than his skill. We landed 
about 8 A. m. on a rather open part of the coast, and 
the wind still continuing high, Ali set out in quest 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



71 



of horses, as we were now only some ten miles from 
his home. Horses for him, the indisposed seniors, 
myself and servant, were soon procured : and after a 
breakfast of farm-fare brought (gratis, as all eating 
in this country is) by the nearest cottager, we set 
forth about mid-day. 

For two or three miles we rode along the shingle 
of the beach, and then where it became impassable 
from large rocks at the base of a line of precipices, 
we turned off to the hills ; and I was surprised to see 
that even in the wood of dwarf oaks through which 
we passed, and where the soil was evidently scanty 
and but little productive, there were fences, not only 
along the roadway, but elsewhere, showing the entire 
division of the property. Ali now rode forward to 
make preparation at his hamlet for our reception. 

From the summit of the precipices just spoken of, 
I saw the strata extending, from the mountain I was 
on, a great way, beneath the clear water at this curve 
of the coast, toward the southern shore. The view 
in that direction, as well as over the wide expanse of 
the Euxine, was magnificent ; and on that sea not a 
Russian sail was to be seen. I have been now seven- 
teen days on this coast, and along a considerable 
portion of it ; yet, during all that time, although I 
have been continually looking out for and inquiring 
about Russian vessels, I have only once either heard 
of or seen them ; and then it was two sail presumed 
to be Russian, but at too great a distance from land 
to be recognised. There has been nothing in the 
weather or wind to prevent their going where they 
pleased. The blockade, in fact, seems to be the 



72 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



merest farce, excepting when a vessel is occasionally 
fallen in with, or the Russians venture, by stealth 
and under cloud of night, to burn any they may 
find unguarded on the beach, as they attempted lately 
with a couple at Tu ; and I have been told repeatedly 
that one hundred and fifty vessels find constant em- 
ployment in the trade between this country and 
Turkey, in spite of the blockade. 

On reaching the termination of those precipitous 
hills, we came in view of a spacious sandy bay and 
large valley and stream called Shapsikwa. In this 
bay Hassan Bey's vessel was riding at anchor, having 
removed from Toapse when the wind increased ; and 
on the beach was a vessel I had been offered at Sinope, 
as a better sailer than the one I hired. It had fallen 
in with the Russian cruisers, and having been forced 
to run on shore when the sea was high, had got bilged ; 
in consequence of which the salt onboard had been lost. 

Our onward route lay along the shore, which was 
sadly cumbered with rocks ; yet my young and lively 
horse seemed used to picking his steps among them 
as well as on the narrow pathways along the edges of 
some of the precipices we had passed, which might 
have shaken my nerves but for the goat-like adroit- 
ness he displayed. Along the face of the low hills 
we were now passing, I recognised loose black soil, 
similar to that which contained the iron-stone at 
Mesgahu ; and a little search soon produced me the 
same mineral, which appeared equally rich. This 
soil is here of considerable extent. 

After riding two or three miles along the beach, 
we came to another spacious sandy bay ; and this, I 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



73 



was happy to learn, was Jubghe, the one I had first 
attempted to make in the Vixen. On entering it, 
one of the younger brothers Zazi-oku met us and 
alighted to bid us welcome. On each side of the bay 
there are hills ; and immediately behind the sweep of 
sand begins a noble grove of tall and stately oak, where 
we met Ali returning to escort us. Having passed 
through this grove , a spacious green valley appeared, 
with an ample stream flowing through it, in which 
two Turkish vessels lay secure, while their captains 
and crews sat smoking on the banks. Here was the 
chief scene of the late battle, of which the trees of the 
grove also afforded me mementos in passing. 

About a mile up the valley we turned a little to 
the right, and there, at the foot of a low wooded hill, 
found the numerous dwellings of the Zazi-oku family, 
within a well-fenced and spacious park, on entering 
which we were saluted with two discharges of cannon. 
The guest-house here is superior to any I have yet 
seen, and in it the eldest brother, Mehmet, received 
me with the greatest cordiality and many well-framed 
sentences of civility, among which was this : " that 
henceforth we are to be considered as having had the 
same father and the same mother ; " to w T hich I 
assented, with some " mental reservation." At the 
same time, Mehmet begged that I would change coats 
with him, to become more like a Circassian : so he 
squeezed his brawny shoulders into my smart, tight-fit 
surtout, and I now luxuriate at ease in an ample 
tunic of brown cloth, trimmed with silver lace round 
the skirts, sleeves, and cartouch -pouches on the 
breast. 



74 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



I have been to the wood to see vestiges (besides 
the balls brought me) of the battle lately fought 
there, of which it affords abundance, in shot-marks 
and splintered branches. The Russian general first 
tried to parley, vaunting the power of Russia, and 
the fearful consequences of resistance, to all which 
Mehmet only replied by a challenge to land and fight. 
The ships cannonaded for some time ; and four bat- 
talions of about 3000 men and two pieces of cannon 
were landed at a corner of the bay under cover of 
their fire. The suddenness of the atack had not given 
time for the assemblage of any considerable Circassian 
force ; but the immediate neighbourhood furnished 
about a thousand warriors, who remained in groups 
behind such cover as the sides of the valley afforded, 
until the Russian infantry began to advance through 
the grove. A very sanguinary struggle then ensued, 
terminating, as already mentioned, in the repulse of 
the Russians, who had not been able to advance more 
than half-way towards the hamlet, the destruction of 
which was, no doubt, the purpose of their debarcation. 
This family lost on the occasion about five-and- 
twenty relatives. 

In this farm-stead there are no less than thirteen 
Poles and seven Russians, deserters and prisoners. 
Among the latter is the sub-officer captured by Ali, 
whose legs are at present hung with a somewhat 
ponderous pair of gyves, on account of his having 
twice shown a disposition to escape. Such Russians 
as are captured are exchanged, from time to time, 
for Circassians in the same predicament ; but I am 
glad to learn that this is not done with either 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



75 



Russians or Poles who have deserted. They are 
either retained as farm-servants, or sold, if they 
prefer it, to merchants from Turkey, where slavery is 
even less irksome than here, and speedy manumis- 
sion (that is, in five or six years) more probable. 
One of the Poles, a young man who had deserted 
from Ghilenjik, after having hovered round the 
guest-house for some time, at length ventured in, 
when he found that only I and my man (who speaks 
Polish) were within, to see what intelligence or con- 
solation I could give him in regard to his country. I 
gave him the best I could, and the tears rolled down 
his cheeks while it was communicated to him. 

On the other side of the grove, as in similar localities 
at other parts of the coast, I have observed wooden 
crosses erected. They are of various forms ; the trans- 
verse portion being in some cases on the top of the 
other, and in others rather lower. Both are more 
or less carved. According to the report of this 
family, the worship at these crosses was formerly very 
frequent and numerously attended ; but of late it is 
rare and partial, as many disapprove of and ridicule 
the practice. Quaere — how far has this Russian war 
contributed here to bring into contempt the religion 
of the cross ? 

Shamuz has expressed regret at having omitted to 
show me, on the coast to the southward, where coal 
has been found ; but he promises to take me to other 
places in the north where it is coming into use for 
fuel. 

Here, as in the south, I have had a constant suc- 
cession of visitors, the most interesting of whom. 



76 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



both on account of his appearance — his massive muscle 
and lion-look — and of the intrepid and enterprising 
character I hear of him, is old Hadji Guz Beg of Shap- 
suk, who has just bid me good-bye, and left deeply 
impressed on my imagination the dismay with which 
the roused spirit of his wrath might unnerve any 
ordinary antagonist. He left the neighbourhood of 
the Kuban yesterday, and crossed the intervening 
mountains almost without affording his steed a breath- 
ing-halt, on purpose to see the Englishman and hear 
his news. He and his single attendant reported that 
four battalions of Russians, with cannon, &c. had 
already crossed the Kuban ; and that there had been 
some fighting, but without much result, as the Cir- 
cassians were not then assembled in force. The 
numerous musters they met flocking northward gave 
promise, however, that a battle would soon take place. 

All I have seen here express the same determina- 
tion as those of the south — to resist to the last, and 
to contend for mountain by mountain ; yet there is 
an evident wish that the European powers (espe- 
cially England) should interfere in their behalf, 
or that, at least, the means of continuing the war 
should be furnished them — cannon and powder, or 
sulphur alone. 

Their chief fear appears to be that the Russians, by 
means of their shipping, may possess themselves of 
the most accessible positions on the coast, particularly 
the bay of Semez, where stood the old fort of Sujuk- 
kaleh. I find the same argument made use of here as 
in the south. They say that this country was always 
free ; and that as Greece, after so short a struggle, was 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



77 



freed by European intervention, they merit much 
more such aid who have fought for more than a 
century to maintain their independence. 

The Russian warfare toward the north has been 
described to me as utterly barbarous. Parties enter the 
hamlets during the night, and not only carry off the 
women, children, and cattle, but mutilate the bodies 
of such men as are slain in resisting them. No less 
than thirty women and children were thus carried off 
in one night, from a village eastward on the Kuban ; 
and as the people of that district were greatly 
distressed in consequence, a letter, announcing my 
arrival, was despatched from this place for their 
encouragement, immediately on the receipt of that 
intelligence. All, even the women and children, are 
said to participate in this feeling of encouragement ; 
and my chief and most irksome task is, and must be, 
to prevent their placing too much hope in any imme- 
diate action of England — ignorant as I am of what 
policy may be there adopted— and to persuade them 
to rely chiefly upon themselves. 



LETTER IV. 



JOURNEY FROM PSHAT TO SEMEZ. 

Pshat, Thursday \\th May, 1837. 

My Dear . Yesterday morning after a 

good breakfast I set out from my quarters at Jubghe, 
under another salute from the two cannons ; the 
four kind brothers, with their families and visitors, 
to the number of about forty, accompanying me 
to the beach, where a boat had been prepared to 
convey me to this place. In it the two youngest 
brothers Zazi-oku (both of whom have already been 
wounded in the war on the Kuban) and Hussein 
embarked along with me, while Shamuz, who left 
his excellent servant with me, preferred riding. At 
ten we left the bay of Jubghe. Vessels could not 
remain long at anchor in it with safety ; but Ali 
says, that if the war were over, he would very soon 
cut a channel into the river for smaller vessels, per- 
haps, of eighty or one hundred tons. At half-past 
one, (going about four to five knots) we reached a 
small bay river and pleasant valley called Tshopsine. 
On the beach was a large boat loading provisions to 
take to some district in the south, where cultivation 
had been intermitted last year owing to the plague 
having been brought there ; and on entering the 
river for the purpose of changing some of the rowers, 
we found a Turkish vessel just arrived from Trebi- 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



79 



zond. This river seems deep for some distance from 
its mouth ; and I thought a vessel of one hundred to 
one hundred and fifty tons might find water enough 
in it, if the bar were made passable 3 which it is not 
at present. 

At two we started again, having acquired two 
fiery young men, who rowed and sung the whole of 
the remainder of the way with undiminished energy. 
One of them seemed also a professed wit, and the 
Mesgahu buffoon being again one of the rowers, I 
was much amused by seeing his continued efforts to 
get his own proper jokes introduced, and the stoical 
indifference with which the other regarded them. But 
all joined heartily in the singing. At times the 
responses were executed by three different parties 
alternately, and most of the voices being full-toned 
and manly, the effect, on the still summer sea, the 
weather being calm and beautiful, was most delight- 
fully exciting. The scenery tended not a little to 
heighten this effect. On our right were precipices 
of fifty to one hundred feet high, from which beauti- 
ful meadows, corn-fields, and copses sloped gently 
upwards for some distance, with hamlets scattered 
here and there ; while behind us, to the south-east, 
the whole coast, as far as Ghagra, with its mountains, 
promontories, creeks, and bays, lay expanded to view. 
Of course only the mountains towards Ghagra were 
visible at this distance. They seemed to stretch to 
the very sea, and glistened throughout with snow, 
which I am told they often retain the whole year. 
At four we reached a small valley called Beshi. Its 
western cape, of the same name, projects considerably, 



80 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



and forms with Yilduk, on the north-west, (also 
a considerable cape,) the two headlands of the bay of 
Pshat, on whose ample gravelly beach I landed at 
five, thus finishing my coasting voyage. The most 
remarkable feature of this coast is that along the 
whole extent of it that I have seen there is a beach, 
which, with the exception of a few portions of small 
extent, where rocks have encumbered it, forms a 
tolerable highway for horses and foot passengers ; 
and although in general too heavy for carriages, it 
must yet be very advantageous to the natives (espe- 
cially in winter), on account of the mountainous and 
difficult nature of the whole of the adjoining country. 
The next feature in importance, is that the whole of 
the precipices (none of them very high) which border 
by far the greater portion of the beach, consist in 
general of rocks, with minute strata, no large masses 
of stone being anywhere visible except in the neigh- 
bourhood of Vardan. These strata generally present 
their edges towards the sea, and the cliff generally 
makes a very acute angle with the horizontal line. 
From Kluf, in the direction of south-east, the strata 
generally dip to the N, W. ; while to the north-west of 
that bay, whence the coast has a more westerly trend- 
ing, the strata generally dip to the E. But incli- 
nations of all kinds are here and there to be seen, and 
on the end of the hill, next Pshat, the strata in one 
place surrounded a core. It is to be hoped that some 
experienced English geologist will soon traverse this 
coast, which I have no doubt will be found highly 
interesting. A third general feature of this portion 
of the coast may be noticed, as of more general 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



81 



interest, viz. — that although abounding in bays, 
none of these are of such depth and form as to afford 
shelter against winds from the south and west. 
Pshat is one of the best, yet very open. The anchor- 
age, however, along the coast is, in general, excel- 
lent ; and the sea-winds are said rarely to " blow 
home 5 ' with violence. 

On landing, one of the Zazi-okus immediately went 
to procure me some conveyance, as the hamlet of 
Indar-oku, the chief here, is at a distance of four or 
five miles from the sea. On the verge of a small 
wood on the shore stands a wooden cross. The 
young chief was unable to procure me anything bet- 
ter than a great ox-cart, which served to carry my 
baggage, and to transport me across the rapid, shallow 
Pshat. He subsequently discovered two horses feed- 
ing, one of which he soon caught, accoutred, and 
brought me. Our road lay, as I have already said, 
for four or five miles up the valley of the Pshat, 
which, though now a small clear stream, seems to 
commit great havoc in winter, as it has washed away, 
or covered with stones, the soil of the greater portion 
of the valley; and in one place its bed of stones 
seemed to me about half a mile in breadth. The 
moon and stars had been shining for some time before 
we reached the hamlet in which I now write, where 
I found a very tidy new guest-house, with its paddock 
neatly railed in, and its divan furnished with beauti- 
ful matting, Turkey carpet, and silken pillows. A hot 
supper was soon served, at which a son of the chief 
attended, and I went to sleep early, to make up for 
the want of it (through writing) the night before. 

VOL. I. G 



S2 RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 

Friday, 12th.— Yesterday morning, before my 
second breakfast, Shamuz entered, and bidding me 
good morning, said that he had arrived the night 
before, but finding the door shut and all still, he did 
not like to disturb me, as I needed sleep ; and that 
he, therefore, sought quarters elsewhere. After 
breakfast, my host Indar-oku, whose beard one hun- 
dred winters have bleached, (by the bye he alone 
wears only moustaches*,) paid me a visit. I told 
him I was happy to make his acquaintance person- 
ally, as I had known him before, both by what I had 
read and heard of him. He replied, that he believed 
both good and ill had been spoken of him ; but that, 
at least, he was always happy to see and entertain, to 
the best of his power (as he should me) those who 
came to his house ; adding, that when I went to the 
south, it was too far for him to attempt to follow me, 
but that since I came here, he could not sleep all 
night for joy at the hope my arrival had given him, 
nor rest until he had come to see me. " We are too 
poor," continued the old chief, " to recompense the 
English properly for thinking of us in our distress ; 
but God will reward them ; and every day in my 
prayers, I pray God to do so. I am now old and 
very infirm, and my only wish before I die is, that I 
may see my country free and at peace." I said the 
best specifics for old age were repose and freedom from 
care ; and that he should endeavour to believe that his 
country's cause was now about to prosper. " How 



* Subsequent observation made me believe this to have been 
the ancient Circassian mode, especially of those who adhered to the 
worship of the Cross. 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



83 



can I rest," replied he, " when my heart is a prey to 
anxiety about my country !" He then begged permis- 
sion (as is always done) to retire. I give this conversa- 
tion the more readily, because, somehow, an idea seems 
to exist that this chief is friendly to Russia, of which I 
see no proofs ; and his countrymen, at whom I have 
inquired about him, all say that he was friendly at 
the time Russia made the experiment of trade, (he 
still expresses great esteem for Monsieur de Marigny) 
but is so no longer, and has taken his share in the 
war against her on the Kuban. Moreover, he has a 
Turkish vessel at this moment lying in his river in 
contravention of her laws ; his echelle was lately 
attacked with a view to destroy one or two others, 
when some fighting took place; and he sent one of 
his sons for me to Jubghe. His hamlet is seated, 
at all events, a good way beyond the reach of the 
guns of his " friends," and at the foot of some 
hills, which would afford good refuge in case of a 
hostile visit. 

The country hereabouts is less rich than about 
Jubghe, and much less rich than the neighbourhoods 
of Mamai and Sutsha ; yet it is by no means poor, 
and the cultivation, both in the valley and up three- 
fourths of many of the hills, is very considerable, 
proving, as there is very little exportation, the popu- 
lousness of the country. It appears there is some 
difficulty in getting horses even from this wealthy 
establishment ; but the difficulty is merely incidental, 
owing to several having been sent with two of the 
chief's sons, who are gone into the interior for change 
of air for one of them who is ill ; to others, having 

G 2 



84 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



accompanied the one who went to Jubghe ; and 
lastly, to a number having been presented along with 
many other valuable articles to the parents of a 
family who have just given a beautiful daughter in 
marriage to another of his sons. 

Throughout allCircassia, I am told, there are frater- 
nities and extensive associations of these smaller bro- 
therhoods. Their chief peculiarities are, that the mem- 
bers are bound mutually to protect each other, and 
assist in paying the fine of individuals who may com- 
mit manslaughter, or other crimes : but this is only 
done on the first, or first and second occasions ; if the 
offence is again repeated, the society takes the punish- 
ment of the individual upon itself, and sometimes in- 
flicts death. All the brotherhood are also bound to aid 
any member who may fall into reduced circum- 
stances. In travelling they enter the family houses 
of each other, as freely as if they were brothers in 
reality. No brother may marry the daughter of one of 
his brother associates, and the fraternity sees specially 
that no brother disgrace himself by a marriage be- 
neath his grade in the country, whatever it may be ; 
for there are fraternities of nobles of different grades, 
and of freemen, including their serfs also. Each 
fraternity has its appropriate name. 

The family of Indar-oku worships at the cross., 
and the account of that worship w T hich my servant 
has received from a Russian slave here is very dif- 
ferent from the account I got formerly, and which 
was most probably tinged by the opinions of Meh- 
met, who gave it me. The Russian says the worship 
takes place on the Sundays of alternate months ; 



RESIDENCE IN CILICASSIA. 



85 



and that if we stay till next Sunday we may see old 
Indar-oku and his family, with many others, go 
down to the cross at the bay to worship. The for- 
mulae, I am told, are these: — The congregation place 
themselves on their knees at some little distance in 
front of the cross, and say their prayers, after which 
two old men advance to the cross with bread or 
pasta, and a fermented liquor called shuat or bos6, in 
their hands. They pray for a blessing upon these, 
and then distribute them among the people. If I 
find a good opportunity, I shall endeavour to get 
more precise information hereafter. 

Luca constantly exclaims in wonder at the num- 
bers of Russians and Poles he meets with everywhere. 
In this establishment are three or four Russians. 

My attention having just now been caught by a 
lively and beautiful light bay horse, tied to a tree, I 
went out to examine him and learn his value. He is 
six years old, and has been offered to me for 500 
piastres (not quite £5) ; and if there be any analogy 
between the dealing in this article here and in Eng- 
land, of course the horse might be bought for much 
less than was asked of me. 

Kivakwuz, May 13. — Yesterday I left Pshat, 
after a second visit from the chief, Indar-oku, who, 
old as he is, has not yet lost a tooth : one of 
his chief dependents, his grandson, and another 
accompanied me, all on foot ; and we had not 
gone far when we were joined by a Pole, whom 
I was much gratified to see mounted and armed 
like the rest; and was still more gratified to 
learn that he was free, and that his horse and 
arms were his own. By his account it is very easy 



86 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



for a Pole here to obtain freedom, and it is through 
ignorance that others do not obtain it. He says he 
has a house of his own, and is liberally remunerated 
for practising as a physician, having acquired some 
medical knowledge at Warsaw. 

But his account of the way in which he effected 
his escape from Russian military servitude is 
most extraordinary. He says he was in perfect 
despair at the condition he found himself in as a 
Russian soldier, and, therefore, got an interview 
with the General at Anapa, and told him that, what- 
ever the consequences might be, he would not remain 
in the army ; but, that if the General would give 
him a pass to quit it, he would give him a sum of 
money he had. 

The bargain was struck, and here he is, and has 
already been back to the neighbourhood of Anapa, 
and taken part in an engagement against the 
Russians. 

Our route from Pshat lay for three hours up the 
wide channels of the stream of the same name : we 
afterwards turned up the glen of a smaller rivulet, 
which runs into it on the west ; and quitting the 
latter, our pathway became very tortuous and diffi- 
cult, amid the woods and hills of the ascent, and in 
some places the deep mire. The fertility of the soil 
seemed to increase as we advanced ; but the trees, 
which are chiefly hard wood, were none of them of 
considerable size. Both along the vale of the Pshat, 
and at this point, the neighbouring mountains showed 
great portions of their sides cleared, or being cleared, 
for cultivation ; and the patches of cultivation near 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



87 



enough to be better seen, were all inclosed with secure 
wattled fences. About the cottages are pie nty of 
poultry ; wild-ducks are also to be seen about the 
more secluded portions of the rivers. In about three 
and a half hours we had reached the summit of the 
defile (not lofty, but rugged,) which separates the 
vale of the Pshat from that of the Sutshuk, which 
runs to Ghelenjik ; and on reaching this latter vale, 
I found it level and moderately broad, producing 
abundance of rich herbage, and inclosed by moun- 
tains richly clothed with oaks and their usual 
associates. 

Here we rested^ and turned our horses loose to feed, 
lunch eoning ourselves ; during which time we were 
joined by a chief whose family is said to be of great 
antiquity, and to have first settled the district of 
Semez (or Sujuk.) Another person, who speaks 
Turkish well, came with him ; the purpose of both 
being to join and return with us. The number of per- 
sons I have met who can speak Turkish has as yet 
been considerable ; many also can read and write it. 

All the way along I have seen abundance of wild 
pear and apple trees, whose fruit is said to be excel- 
lent ; and every breeze is now scented with haw- 
thorn and honeysuckle. We crossed the Sutshuk, 
which runs from S.E. to N.W. for about an hour 
and a half ; but were then obliged to leave it, as it 
falls into the bay of Ghelenjik, which, for the present, 
is in the hands of the Russians. The route by this 
bay must have been the usual one before they got 
possession there ; for the remainder of our way, thus 
far, was very difficult. For a short distance we 



88 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



turned up the course of a small stream which falls 
from the north into the Sutstmk, and on its banks 
I found such a pleasant hamlet, amid rich parks, 
abundance of cattle and poultry, as might have 
stopped Campbell's mendicant to lean on its substan- 
tial fences, and think — " Oh, that for me some home 
like this would smile,"— and yet this home which 
looked so snug and peaceful, is but about an hour's 
ride from the enemy's fortress ! 

Immediately beyond this point our path turned 
abruptly to the left, and a repartition of our luggage 
among the cattle, showed that it was about to become 
more difficult, as in fact it did ; for what with sloughs, 
entanglements of woods and underwoods, and steeps 
ascended by regular flights of horse-steps, I have seldom 
seen such another. Its summit afforded a magnificent 
and beautiful view of mountain, wood, meadow and 
water. In many parts I observed, on the edges of the 
woods, small grassy openings with little congregations 
of tombs, which are covered with stones, and have 
pieces of carved wood placed at the head and feet, 
amid which almost invariably was a cross, and a small 
wooden post with knobs for attaching the bridles of the 
horses of visitors : at these places, I was told, prayers 
were usually said. After descending from the emi- 
nence last mentioned, we, of the advanced party, fed 
our horses in a wide meadow, till some of the 
baggage came up, when a ride of a mile or so 
brought us among some more woods of much loftier 
trees, amid which appeared numerous hamlets. At 
the first of these, we learned, on applying, that 
accommodation for our party could not be had, (there 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



89 



appears to be much travelling at present,) but our 
second application was more successful, and here we 
were at once received, all but the two who had joined 
us on the Sutshuk, who have got quarters in the 
neighbourhood. The dwellers in this hamlet are but 
small proprietors (not noble), and yet although 
apparently poor in furniture, and still poorer in 
clothing, (some of the children are half, and others 
entirely naked,) their guest-house is better finished 
than those of the south, and their dishes, though 
not so reciierches as some of those set before me 
by the chiefs, are in abundance and substantially 
the same, and served with the same cleanliness and 
etiquette. 

There is much wood of splendid growth in this 
valley, and its soil seems all of surpassing richness ; 
the hamlets, too, are numerous, although a high hill 
to the westward is all that intervenes between them 
and the Russian garrison at Ghelenjik. But the 
peace of this valley has lately been a little broken in 
upon, as the Russian neighbours have, whether forced 
thereto by the neglect of their commissariat, or 
merely for mischief's sake, attempted by stealth this 
season, for the first time, four forays among the 
cattle in this district. The last of these occurred but 
a fortnight ago, when the Russians were severely 
repulsed, although four times as numerous as the 
Circassians, who were only the warriors (that s, every 
male fit to bear arms) of this and the adjoining 
hamlets, amounting in all to about fifty persons. 
Cannon had to be sent from Ghelenjik to enable the 
soldiers to effect their retreat. The Circassians are 



90 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



not likely to be taken unawares again, as they have 
now sentinels constantly on the neighbouring hills to 
watch the motions of the garrison. Shamuz told me, 
last night, that within this year he has lost two 
brothers, fighting against the Russians ; but he does 
not grieve at their loss, he says, as they died glori- 
ously, and as he hopes yet to do. In all, he says, he 
has lost thirty-two relations in this war. He is an 
old and experienced warrior, having fought, and been 
severely wounded, at the siege of Imail, in Egypt, 
against the French, and been present on board a 
Turkish man-of-war, when Admiral Duckworth forced 
the passage of the Dardanelles. He says his relative, 
Indar-oku, was a very brave and hardy warrior in 
his day. — But the horses are ready, and I must rise. 

Aduwhau, Sunday, IMh. — We did not start 
yesterday till about mid-day, for the purpose, I pre- 
sume, of resting the horses that belong to the attend- 
ing chiefs, and which are not changed in travelling. 
Our route for about three hours lay through forests 
of stately oaks and beeches, with occasional openings 
and enclosures for cultivation, and over considerable 
undulations ; and in one place a hill so steep, that it 
is ascended, as those of yesterday, by a complete 
flight of horse-steps. On our left were the lofty 
mountains immediately to the east of Ghelenjik, cul- 
tivated partially more than half way up, and on our 
right, others of less elevation. In this part of our course 
we passed two small streams — first, the Mazep, and 
then the Chabzi, which both fall into the Kuban. In 
an opening of the forest, beside the latter stream, we 
rested for prayers and luncheon, which, as yesterday, 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



91 



consisted merely of the usual war-provision of the 
Circassians, which they carry before them in a skin 
hung on the saddle-bow ; it is called gomil, and is a 
mixture of flour (millet, I believe) and honey. It 
becomes slightly fermented, can be kept long, and, 
they say, gives them strength and courage. Our drink 
was water, served in the leaf of a burdock ; and of 
the same leaf Shamuz made a carpet for his prayers, 
and the horses a hearty repast. 

We next came to a rather difficult pass from which 
the fort of Nicolaevski on the Abun was said to be 
at a distance of only about four miles to the right, 
and that of Doha at a similar distance to the left. 
On a narrow level I was shown the traces of the 
cannon of the army WilliaminefF had passed with 
from the Kuban to Ghilenjik ; and the brow of a 
woody hill on our left was pointed out to me as the 
position the Circassians had chosen and assembled 
on for the purpose of attacking them, which, I was 
told, had been done very effectually. A little active 
old man, who accompanied us on foot to take back 
his horses, and who was described to me as a brave 
and indefatigable warrior, was wounded here, and 
another of our company lost a brother. We met 
near this place two men returning from the north. 
They reported that some fighting had just taken 
place near Anapa, in which one of them, with his 
head bound up, and of remarkably handsome and 
pleasing features, had been wounded. A general 
action, they said, was expected that day. They re- 
ported also the death of another of Shamuz' relatives, 
in consequence of wounds received in a late action ; 



92 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



thus adding another victim towards the hecatomb the 
Russians seem likely to make of all the male kindred 
of this old warrior. 

We now entered the most beautiful, rich, and 
extensive valley I have yet seen, along which we rode 
for about two hours, without seeing any cattle or 
inhabitants, who have all retired to the neighbouring 
hills; for here the Russian army had committed 
more devastation than at any other place in itsyine 
of march ; and it is said, that another course of fire 
and sword is almost daily expected to be attempted. 
But the valley had been exceedingly populous, 
and proofs of this were everywhere to be seen in torn 
fences, and the ashes and ruins of houses, caused by 
the soi-disant protectors of this country. By this 
route WilliaminefF and his army, after their attempt 
last summer to take and hold Sujuk Kaleh, had 
made their way from Doba back to the Kuban ;|and 
as their artillery (without which they are almost 
powerless in this country) could here be best brought 
into play, on this lovely spot they had wrought most 
ruin. While I surveyed its enchanting beauties, I 
could scarcely bring myself to imagine their being 
violated by war. The Russians remained here 
twenty-four days, and during that time the fighting 
was almost incessant. The Circassians still esti- 
mate the number of WilliaminefF's army at 20,000 
men; but a sage old Turk, whose house I here 
occupy, says there were 10,000 infantry and 5,000 
cavalry. 

Some days before the arrival of the Vixen, 
WilliaminefF, finding his army almost broken up by 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



93 



repeated battles, and his soldiers so dispirited that 
numbers had thrown away their arms, had deter- 
mined on re-crossing the Kuban, and his artillery 
had already done so (probably to save them, whatever 
might become of the men) ; and the remainder of 
the army would inevitably have been destroyed before 
it could have crossed, as the Circassians were in 
considerable force, had he not saved himself by this 
ruse. He said the war was at an end, as his govern- 
ment was convinced that the English were deter- 
mined to interfere, and the Emperor had sent a letter 
desiring him to cease hostilities. The Circassians 
still doubting him, he tendered his solemn oath as to 
the truth of what he said, and offered to show the 
letter he had received. The oath w r as taken in 
presence of the chief judge and the other seniors, 
and the army was permitted to repass the Kuban ; 
and in the renewed hostilities of this year, the 
Circassians have acquired experience as to Russian 
honour, which I trust will not be lost upon them. 

Quitting the cannon track which leads to Doha, 
we turned towards the right, and got again among 
some higher ground and wood ; and here I at once 
found buildings and fences entire, and agriculture 
going on here as on other spots just on the verge of 
the valley, proving that beyond the level ground the 
Russians neither dared venture nor are feared. My 
Turkish authority, w T ho was present at the engage- 
ments, says that when the Russians advanced, 4000 
Circassians assembled and attacked them ; that these 
Circassians, who are in some degree all volunteers, 
bringing their own provisions with them, supposing 



94 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



the object the Russians had in view to have been 
accomplished by their having reached and remained 
so long in Ghelenjik and Doba, dispersed to their 
homes ; that when the Russians set out from Doba 
for the Kuban only about 1000 Circassians mustered 
to oppose them ; but that if the remainder of the 
original number had been there, not a man of the 
Russians would have reached the Kuban, as their 
force had been so broken, and so many of their arms 
destroyed and thrown away during their march. 

This hamlet is little more than half an hour's ride 
from the portion of the valley through which the 
Russians passed ; it is composed of about a dozen 
houses, seated at the base of the eastern hills, and 
several trading Turks reside here; one of whom 
affords accommodation for myself, servant, and the 
servant of Shamuz, of whose attendance I have much 
more than his master. The rest of our party sleep 
elsewhere. Our eating is excellent and profuse, for 
three households contribute to it ; and each meal is 
a sort of picnic, at which some of the dishes are 
accidentally doubled, yet I must partake of both, not 
to offend the furnishers. The pasta is here far 
better, both in quality and cooking, than in the 
south ; but to me the most remarkable dish was one 
of butter and honey mixed, and eaten with pastry 
enclosing pressed curds, the butter being better in 
every respect than any I have seen since leaving 
England, and quite as good as what is generally pro- 
duced there. When the trade is opened, this must 
become a large article of export to Constantinople, 
where immense quantities of bad Russian butter are 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



95 



at present imported. Pasture is excellent here, 
throughout the greater part of the year. Sham-iiz* 
spirits rise as he gets towards the north ; he says he 
is now quite well, and the weather being stormy with 
torrents of rain, he tells me that I am now out from 
among the "barbarians of the south*," and may 
rest quietly, and consider myself at home — that is, 
near his house and native neighbourhood. 

Luca has just concluded to my satisfaction an 
exchange for me of his watch for that of General 
WilliaminefF, which thus fell into the hands of the 
Circassians: — His baggage-waggon got upset and 
many of the contents destroyed, when the person ir 
charge, fearful of his master's vengeance, absconded 
with this watch and some money which he had in 
charge. You will make two obvious reflections 
hereupon — that the Russian soldiers think their 
enemies more merciful than their officers, and that 
WilliaminefF 's progress could not have been very 
orderly. 

The sun set inauspiciously yesterday evening, and 
it rained and blew furiously during the night. This 
house is the worst roofed of any I have yet been in, 
(a Turk is the owner,) and I woke in the night with 
rain and clay falling on my head. Soon afterwards, I 
found a Circassian, who had got into the room I 
know not how, covering me with a felt cloak. Such 
is the unremitting attention I experience from these 
people. 

* This unjust expression and some previous incidents were the first 
indications I observed of jealousy between the people of the north and 
the south — a feeling which afterwards became more apparent. 



96 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



Seme%, near Sujuk Kaleh, Sunday evening.— 
At noon to-day, we left Aduwhau. for this place. On 
reaching the summit of the hill, we encountered the 
unbroken force of the gale from the south-east ; but 
for myself, I felt well incited to make my way 
against it by the splendid view that had opened 
beneath us, of a wide expanse of the Black Sea, the 
beautiful bay of Sujuk, its vale and surrounding 
hills. But the object that fixed the attention of the 
Circassians was a vessel riding at anchor within the 
eastern reef of the bay, and a debate arose among 
them whether it was a Russian war or merchant 
vessel. Its rigging made me decide upon the latter, 
when one of them said they would attempt to take 
her. The descent to the bay is exceedingly steep ; 
we made our way through a wood in the centre of 
this valley ; around it were large fences going to ruin, 
and tracts of ground which had been cultivated, but 
are now left waste, the invasion of last year having 
induced most of the inhabitants to seek safer quarters 
on the sides of the neighbouring hills. Amid the 
depths of the wood, however, a rich meadow or two 
are here and there to be seen, with a homestead and 
some cattle. All the more exposed houses were burnt 
last year by the Russians, who then destroyed one 
Shamuz had built in the fashion of those of Constan- 
tinople, thereby compelling him, like the rest, to 
betake himself to higher ground and humbler 
quarters. On passing the head of the bay, he was 
missing, and I found he had gone to order prepara- 
tions for attacking the vessel ; but I have since 
learned that she turns out to be a man-of-war. 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



97 



The only fighting as yet, near Anapa, turns out to 
have been an attack upon the cattle of the military 
colonists, by a small party of Circassians from whom 
the colonists fled ; a body of cavalry attempted to 
retaliate by a sortie^ which the Circassians repulsed ; 
but were in their turn repulsed by a body of infantry 
with cannon. When I was here with the Vixen, a 
chief told me he wished to go to Anapa to see a 
Turk, a particular friend of his who was detained 
there by the Russians ; but he thought it necessary 
to apprise me of his intention for the information of 
Daud Bey, lest he might think him a traitor. In 
consequence of his visit it appears, this Turk (who 
turns out to be an Armenian, although a Turkish sub- 
ject) and a Greek came out of the fortress (I do not 
know how) with some goods ; but the other Circas- 
sians refused to buy the goods (though salt consti- 
tuted a part of them) as being Russian, and have since 
detained them and their owners ; and application has 
just been made to me to know if I would advise their 
release. I refused to interfere, but gave it as my 
opinion that they were quite right in being suspi- 
cious of every person and thing that came from the 
Russian quarters, and should detain these persons in 
the mean time, and see that they have no corre- 
spondence. 

Tuesdmj, 16th. — This hamlet is seated in a rather 
open glen, at a little distance from the valley ; but 
backed by wooded hills, which, as I have seen in a 
walk I took among them (alone and armed only with 
a whip), afford defiles sufficiently intricate for refuge. 
The guest-house is the best finished and roofed I 

VOL. I. H 



98 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



have been in, and is half embosomed in trees and 
shrubs, among which are many wild roses. Its divan 
has a handsome silk mattress and bolster sprigged 
with gold thread, and at night I lay my head on a 
crimson silk pillow, and am covered with a striped 
silk coverlet ; our tables are numerous and dishes 
excellent. The only thing that annoys me is being 
kept so much in the house (sitting with crossed legs 
on the divan to receive visiters) beside enormous fires, 
which are lighted up morning and evening, although 
the temperature at 5 a.m. ranges from 55 to 60. 
Here we have home-made and very good soap, the 
alkali for which is obtained from the ashes of the 
fires. As Mrs. Kehri-ku is busy washing my things 
to-day, she begs me to allow her to defer the altera- 
tion of my tunic till the washing be over. The 
ladies here have not yet, it would appear, learned 
the valuable arts of making card-racks and Chinese 
boxes. 

The chiefs and retainers here generally spend a 
portion of each day in firing at a target placed on the 
other side of the glen. I gave a small prize to be 
fired for, and one of the former gained it. Boys and 
men are all " dead shots." To-day I have seen some 
of the friends I formerly made ; and the pleasure of 
seeing a face even slightly known is, I assure you, 
among so many strange countenances, not a little 
gratifying. Among others came Mehmet Effendi, 
who embraced me twice, and really seemed to feel 
what he said, that he had not words to express his 
joy at my return and escape from the hands of the 
Russians. In joke he says, as did several others in 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



99 



the south, that the best thing they could do would 
be to keep me here as a guarantee for assistance 
from England. The four battalions of Russians 
with cannon, I have mentioned, crossed the Kuban 
for the purpose of provisioning the garrison of 
one of their lately erected forts on the Abun. 
Among my visiters is a person who received a 
ball through the left foot in an engagement with 
them. 

Wednesdmj, 17th, — Thermometer, 5 a.m. 55°. 
Another former friend, a very noble-looking person, 
who is atalik, or tutor of Shamuz' eldest son, has 
just shown me some ancient copper coins found at 
Tshopsin, where are found many others of silver also, 
as well as swords, bows, arrows, &c. in the ancient 
cemeteries. He promises me a sight of his collection, 
and I shall endeavour to get some coins ; but the 
silver coins have mostly been melted ! 

Part of Shamuz' salutation this morning was, 
" You English have invented steam-engines, steam- 
boats, infernal machines for blowing up ships, and 
many other wonderful things ; but I cannot compli- 
ment you on your pantaloons, which are much too 
tight." This I find to my cost in sitting on his divan. 
I had heard before, yet had some difficulty in be- 
lieving it to the full extent of what was told me, 
that the Circassians had installed their national flag 
as a Sanjak-sherif (the sacred standard of the Turks), 
and have now assurance of the fact past doubt. The 
flag has hitherto been kept for greater security in 
the hamlejk of Mehmet Effendi (chief judge here), 
and he tells me that his custody of it has caused no 

H 2 



100 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



little jealousy, as several of the chiefs say that they 
should have the keeping of it by turns for a blessing 
on their dwellings ! 

A letter from Constantinople has just arrived, and 
the judge having been cited, all my room-full of visiters 
are gone out upon the green to hear it read. It is from 
one of their countrymen, who was to have come with 
me, and who bade them take courage and not yield 
an inch to the Russians, as assistance from England 
may soon be expected, and then the affair must end 
favourably for them. A person also has just arrived 
from the interior, who says that the district whence 
the Russians carried off the thirty women and 
children had been greatly dispirited thereby, as their 
situation is very exposed ; but that the news of my 
arrival had so encouraged them, that they undertook 
a foray of reprisal, and had just returned with 
twenty-five women and children and one man from 
the north side of the Kuban, without having had any 
of their party even wounded. Such is the civiliza- 
tion Russia is propagating in this part of the world ! 
In my next I hope to give you a specimen of her mili- 
tary literature in the copy of a letter WilliaminefF 
wrote to the Circassians last winter. It is really a 
wonderful document, telling us how Russia never 
went to war but she was the victor ; that she had 
conquered France, and after slaying her sons had 
carried off her daughters into captivity ; that Turkey 
and Persia now lie powerless at her feet ; that 
England dare not interfere here, as her citizens 
depend on Russia for their daily bread; that, in 
short, there are only two powers — God in heaven, 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



101 



and the Emperor on earth ; and if the heavens should 
fall, they might be supported by the millions of the 
bayonets of Russia. I hope I have not spoiled the 
effect of the original. I wish to set out for the Kuban 
and the interior, to pursue my inquiries as to the com- 
merce and state of the country, but I am requested to 
delay my departure for a day or two more, as a great 
body of chiefs is expected here, in consequence of 
four or five messengers having been sent them with 
word of my arrival. When they come, I am told a 
suitable escort will be provided for me. The devo- 
tion of the people I have seen to Mr. Urquhart 
(Daud Bey), and the English, exceeds anything I 
could have imagined. They all wish not merely 
the friendship and aid of England, but that she 
should adopt the country as one of her dependencies. 

A Circassian and two Armenians have been to beg 
my intercession for the Anapa merchants. I have re- 
fused to interfere further than by recommending that 
their goods be placed in safety in the mean time : 
which is to be done accordingly. 



LETTER V. 



A CIRCASSIAN CONGRESS. 

Semez, near Sujuk-kaleh, May \§th, 1837. 

My Dear — — . The person who was wounded 
at Abun, and who is of an ancient Greek descent, is 
it seems cunning in saddlery, in which craft he has 
been aiding my host; but it interested me more to 
discover that he is one of the best musicians in the 
neighbourhood. This I found out by a most unpro- 
mising instrument of the violin genus : it is almost 
the size of a dancing-master's kit, the sounding- 
board is flat, and the back semicircular, which is 
resined for the bow to be primed on. It has but two 
horse-hair strings, pegged and bridged as ours ; the 
bow is almost an arc, and the horse-hair string is 
loose, being tightened when necessary by the hand of 
the performer. The head of the instrument is 
placed, like a violoncello, on the ground where the 
performer sits, (for there are no chairs here,) and while 
playing he turns the instrument (which has no waist) 
from side to side, to aid his variation of the notes. 
He fingered and shook as we do, and yet with this 
slender means he roused me into lively interest, 
especially by one clamorous yet melodious air which 
seemed to me most like a " gathering ;" but no 
pibroch I ever heard equalled it. A somewhat 
monotonous and plaintive air followed, accompanied 
by the voice. It was the eulogy of Ali-bi, (lately 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



103 



killed in battle.) Old Shamuz, who sat by with his 
back to the wall, joined in the song, and presently 
the tears trickled down his dusk cheeks. It is a 
dogma among them not to lament those who fall 
righting for their country, yet in some cases " nature 
will out." 

Last night my host's youngest son, ten years of 
age, spent on the hill watching the horses : this must 
be as discipline, for there appear to be plenty of 
servants. He has already been to the wars as well as 
his brother who is fourteen, and whose atalik says, that 
whenever the Russians have taken the field, this lad 
can neither eat nor sleep till he is allowed to go and 
join his countrymen in fighting them. Both sons are 
here with their ataliks, (or guardians,) and there 
appears not to be any restraint (as some have said 
there is) upon their entering their father's house ; 
but they never sit in his presence or eat unless with 
their backs turned, and heads in a corner of the room. 
Occasionally one of the guests at table hands to one 
of them (or the other attendants indiscriminately) 
some cake or pastry, which they eat always in the 
way I have described ; and if the party receiving the 
pastry be holding the pitch-pine splinter-torch at the 
time, another relieves him of it that he may go to 
the corner and eat: This seems to originate in the 
maxim that neither the host nor any of his house- 
hold should eat in the presence of strangers ; and 
in general, in their presence, the former remain 
standing. 

In this immediate neighbourhood the religion ap- 
pears to be pure Mohammedanism, yet comparatively 



104 



RESIDENCE IN C1RCASSIA. 



few are regular in their prayers, and these generally 
fathers of families and elderly men. It is only, how- 
ever, for the religion of the Turks that this active, 
practical people have any respect, themselves they 
seem to despise, and the treatment Circassia has 
received from the Turkish government makes one 
not wonder at the existence of this feeling. Old 
Shamuz, who should know the Turks, makes them 
a standing jest : for example, he said the other 
morning, " The Turk stretches out his long pipe," 
(the Circassian pipe is exceedingly small and portable,) 
" and gazing upon the sea and the sky hopes Heaven 
may help him, instead of helping himself." Con- 
cubinage is not permitted here, but a man may have 
more wives than one, (if he can pay for them). 
Prostitution and unnatural crimes are unknown. I 
am glad to receive here further testimony in favour of 
the patriotism of the Pshat family ; the eldest son, 
especially, has taken an active part in the war, and is 
here looked upon as one of the bravest and most 
skilful warriors they have. The lady this family 
acquired at such cost for Kaspolet, the third son, is 
described to me as of surpassing beauty, and to have 
been competed for eagerly by many. 

Semex, 20th, 41 a.m. — This I find to be the 
best time for writing, as throughout the rest of the 
day I am constantly liable to interruption ; and even 
at this time it is but a short leisure I have; for 
almost every night there are other visiters who sleep 
here, (sometimes five or six — covering with their 
mats the greater part of the floor,) and they generally 
rise very soon after day-light. Mehmet EfFendi is 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



105 



my only fellow occupant at present, and luckily his 
priestship loves a morning nap. 

I had another old acquaintance here till yesterday 
morning ; viz. the very handsome old gentleman who 
embraced me last year on landing from the Vixen. 
He brought me now a large loaf and some cakes, (I 
presume as a compliment to me, though it would 
seem but a lame one to my host,) and has invited us 
to pay him a visit to-morrow. I will warrant his 
table a good one ; for he has no pretence to the 
national slenderness of waist. I have had a visit also 
of three deputies and their attendants from Sup, (the 
district whence the women and children were carried 
off,) who came to take my advice as to what is to be 
done under their painful circumstances. It has been 
decided that they should wait till Monday, and meet 
me at Adughum, where there is to be a general 
assemblage of chiefs for the purpose of receiving 
me, hearing my news, and concerting future opera- 
tions. 

Yesterday the Circassians had a false alarm, and I 
a bitter disappointment. After an early dinner I 
rode down to the bay attended by a lively lad ; and 
as we paced slowly along the margin of the sea, (of 
which by the way the horses drank as heartily as 
ever I saw any drink water quite fresh,) I perceived, 
to my astonishment, the well-known sign of a steamer 
at sea. I pointed out the dim trail of smoke to the 
lad, but he insisted it was a cloud, till coming on 
higher ground he was convinced of his mistake by 
discovering the hull of the vessel, which rapidly 
became more distinct. Excepting on the occasion of 



106 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



Count Worenzov's expedition, a steamer had never 
been seen on this coast. I felt, therefore, a strong 
conviction of the probability of this one being from 
Constantinople, carrying my promised associates and 
their news, or possibly from England with letters; 
but I said nothing, for fear of creating false hopes. 

The lad and I immediately set off (to communicate 
the intelligence to Shamuz) at full gallop, the excite- 
ment of which made him draw his sabre and pistol, 
and show me how he used them in battle ; for, though 
beardless, he has already bagged his five Russians. 
Half-way back, I urged him on, and then returned 
to the beach, where to my mortification I no longer 
saw the steamer, and learned from a man I met that 
she had put into Ghelenjik — thus affording me 
a double vexation, by disappointing me in regard to 
my friends, and by giving reason to fear that the 
Emperor has added a steamer to the blockading 
squadron. This narrative may seem trifling, yet a 
single mariner rescued from a desert island would be 
listened to as he told of the hopes and fears that had 
agitated him ; and mine are the hopes and fears of a 
deserted nation ! As I returned I found on a height 
a body of Circassians with Shamuz in the midst* 
ready to watch the motions of the enemy. To turn 
my time to some account, I went down the west side 
of the bay to see the old Turkish fort (called Sujuk- 
kaleh). It is a walled and fossed square of about 
200 yards, with bastions at the corners, and some rows 
of buildings in the area, all apparently long since 
ruined. Near it is the best anchorage in a westerly 
wind. 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



107 



The Russians, I am told, have of late been making 
strong efforts for peace. There is a tree between the 
hostile lines, where they are in the habit of placing, 
over night, any communications they wish to make 
to the Circassians. The latter found there very 
lately a letter, saying, " Why did they hope for aid 
from England, which is too weak to afford them any ? 
If they wished for peace, let them apply to the 
Russians, and not trust to the lying English at Con- 
stantinople, who sent them a flag to make fools of 
them." The Circassians sent them a contemptuous 
answer and burnt their letter, to my great mortifica- 
tion, as it would have made a bon morceau for pub- 
lication. I am promised all the -letters that arrive 
in future, but probably this expedient is exhausted, 
and war will be the next. To prepare for it, there 
is a circular drawn up, to be read for approval on 
Monday at the meeting of the chiefs, and to be sent 
to all those who may not be there, calling upon them 
to aid in making a grand effort to repel the impending 
invasion, and to see above all things, that no merchant 
or other person from the Russian territory enter their 
districts, as they are doubtless all spies, and should be 
treated as such. Yesterday I was told that a person 
was come from the north to apply privately to 
Mehmet Effendi, to get him to see if I would recom- 
mend to his countrymen to permit the recal of a Cir- 
cassian who has been expatriated for some years, and 
his effects sold, for having received into his house 
a Russian engineer officer from Anapa. He is 
contrite, and says he would remain here even a 
prisoner, if his life were secured, which he says might 



108 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



be done now that an Englishman is here. He promised 
to communicate important intelligence, as it is 
known where he is. that a messenger has arrived 
from England at Constantinople to treat for the 
Circassians. I have refused to interfere, and have 
advised the rejection of him and his news, as spies 
are now above all to be guarded against, and he 
might probably turn out to be one. 

The Russians destroyed last year about 40,000 
kilos of grain in this neighbourhood. I have there- 
fore advised the Circassians who live near each other 
to combine, and have places prepared amid the hills, 
where they can have their grain securely stored 
and watched. 

Mehmet EfFendi in translating the address I wrote 
for the chiefs, who may not be present on Monday, 
found my expressions — as to the necessity for those 
at a distance aiding strenuously, for their own ulti- 
mate safety in the defence of the frontier provinces 
— too plain ; and therefore he cooked them up thus ; 
that if the roast be about to be burnt, the spit 
(of course it is made of wood here) must be in some 
danger. Here is a splendid figure ! The central ridge 
of mountain is our spit ; Shapsuk and Notwhatsh 
(the warring provinces) our roast, and the Russian 
lines on the Kuban the fire. And it is this fire that 
must be removed, for our roast and spit are as 
immoveable as Newton himself. 

Near Abun there is a mine, I am told, where pre- 
cious stones of a golden colour have been found. It 
cannot at present be approached for the guns of the 
fort. 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



109 



The story of Hassan Bey's captivity is somewhat 
curious. One of his brothers, a colonel in the Turkish 
service, obtained a Russian passport to come to Cir- 
cassia, by way of Anapa, to see Hassan ; but finding 
at Sinope a vessel going direct to the eastern coast, 
he took passage by her. While at his brother's, some 
Russian men-of-war appeared on the coast, and the 
colonel determined on going on board one of them, 
as a good opportunity of part conveyance back to 
Constantinople. Hassan remonstrated, the colonel 
remained firm, and the former then said he would 
accompany him on board. The Russian carried both 
to Anapa, where the colonel was detained six months, 
and, after much remonstrance, permitted to proceed 
to Constantinople ; while poor Hassan, looked upon 
no doubt as lawful prize, was placed in the ranks as 
a common soldier, and sent to Viborg to deplore his 
silly confidence. 

Seme%, Sunday 21st. — This morning, while busy 
with preparations to set out for the congress, I received 
the joyful news that an Englishman and his drago- 
man have arrived at Pshat, and were to proceed 
northward immediately to join me. This has put us 
all in high spirits. Soon after the two merchants 
from Anapa came ; and having kissed my hand, and 
placed it on their foreheads (the most respectful mode 
of salutation here), they proceeded to state the hard- 
ships of their case, and to beg my aid, declaring at the 
same time that they can produce here many respec- 
table sureties for their honour and respectability. I 
replied, that they had been hardly treated (for per- 
mission had been obtained for their coming out of the 



110 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



fortress) ; but that they must have patience in the 
mean time, till the affair could be judicially arranged, 
as the trade they had been engaged in was against 
the interest of this country. We were taking an 
early dinner at the time, and these two (an Armenian 
and a Greek) were placed at the second table (there 
were a third and fourth), with a Mussulman Cir- 
cassian. 

I have had a visit from a judge eighty years of 
age, yet armed for action like the rest. Before leav- 
ing this valley, I may attempt to give some account 
of it. The surrounding hills have not that exuber- 
ant luxuriance I have seen on others in this country, 
yet parts of them are clothed with wood of tolerable 
growth, and excellent pasture and crops of grain ; 
but the centre of the great valley especially, and of 
most of the others branching off, is exceedingly fer- 
tile. The whole length of the former (from N. to S.) 
is about nine miles, and its extreme breadth about 
three. But of all this large and valuable tract, I 
should think not above a fifth is at present occupied 
and cultivated ; the last inroad of the Russians, and 
the expectation of another one, having induced the 
inhabitants to betake themselves to the hills. In a 
shrubby part of the valley, I was shown where a 
Russian general had fallen last year, by the hand of 
Indar-oku Noghai. 

Aghsmug, Monday, 22d. — Our ride yesterday, 
though of only between four and five hours, was of 
exceeding interest and beauty. We crossed the 
valley diagonally to the north, and then ascended 
one of its bounding hills, from which the view of the 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



Ill 



vale, its hills, the bay, and the bluff head-land of 
Atshimsha, was exceedingly beautiful. As we got 
near the grassy summit of this hill, we passed a large 
herd of oxen feeding there; and here our Greco- 
Tcherkess with the wounded foot (which he will not 
be persuaded to take care of by remaining at home), 
and the son of my old host, struck up, to beguile the 
way, one of their riding-songs, which, like those of the 
rowers, was sung in alternate parts, one being a sort 
of clamorous recitative, and the other a choral fugue. 
I fear my ignorance of terms gives but a faint idea of 
a species of music which I have found novel, romantic, 
and highly pleasing. Having surmounted the hill, 
we came in view of a small valley, embosomed in 
forest-clad hills, along the side of one of which we 
descended, by a very narrow footway, completely 
overshaded by large trees. This valley seemed well 
cultivated, and the wattled fences (here out of reach 
of Russian ravage) were ornamentally and securely 
worked. We rested on a bank of excellent pasture 
amid great flocks of goats and sheep (very many of 
the latter are black), till the remainder of our party 
arrived ; for I forgot to say, that it had swelled to a 
pretty large one, by the junction of sundry chiefs and 
their attendants. 

We ascended from the valley through an open 
wood with hamlets interspersed, and fields of grain 
exceedingly luxuriant ; some of it here, as well as at 
Sujuk, was, I am sure, six feet high : it is now in 
full flower. Next came a succession of ascents and 
descents not remarkable, except indeed in regard to 
cultivation, which was so general, and the sides of 



112 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



the fields were so clean and well fenced, that I could 
have believed (had other things permitted) that I 
was in one of the best cultivated parts of Yorkshire. 
One patch of linseed was being carefully weeded by 
five veiled females. We passed out amidst this rich 
and beautiful scenery (the black and sparkling eyes 
of the young females who peeped round the corners 
of the cottages, and shrunk back whenever I turned 
towards them, constituting by no means one of its least 
attractions), and ascending through a fine wood of oaks, 
beeches, &c, came to the open brow of the hill, from 
whose summit a magnificent view to the north lay ex- 
panded. Immediately beneath us were hills all much 
cultivated, and decreasing in elevation till lost in a vast 
extent of comparatively dead level, which was bounded 
only by the horizon. There I was told was the Kuban ; 
but while endeavouring to find it out, and to put into 
some train of thought the feelings that were tumul- 
tuously congregating within me in thus corning in 
sight of the country of the enemy of these kind, and, 
to all appearance, happy people ; of the plains, which 
the cannon of Russia had overrun, and the hills which 
had at length arrested her progress ; my attention 
was diverted by the advance from the left of a party 
whom I had seen from a distance gamboling with 
their horses around a neighbouring summit. So 
soon as they were within a few paces, they all dis- 
mounted and advanced on foot to salute me by kissing 
my hand and placing it on their foreheads. The 
most remarkable among them, to my eye, was a 
middle-aged man (of very pleasing features and ex- 
pression), the first I had seen dressed in a coat of 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



113 



ring-mail, with plates of polished steel behind the 
arms. Mehmet EfTendi took care to inform me 
immediately, that this person is a priest, for he had 
before bade me remark, that the mollahs of Circassia 
not only exhort the people to go forth to battle, but 
set an example by doing so themselves, referring me 
at the same time to all the inhabitants of his district, 
who would testify that he was never found wanting 
in the field, unlike, as he said, the mollahs of Tur- 
key, who preach to others the blessing of martyrdom, 
but avoid it themselves. The usual salutations having 
been exchanged, we all rode forward together, amount- 
ing now to between forty and fifty persons. After a 
short descent we came again among trees and fields, 
and soon after in sight of a hamlet and its corn- 
fields, very snugly placed at the foot of two hills. 
So soon as our advanced guard came to its fence, a 
pistol or two were discharged ; these were returned 
by the inmates, and other firing rapidly succeeded, 
amid shouts of men and careering of horses, so that 
if I had been more ignorant of the usages of the 
country I might have supposed a skirmish had oc- 
curred ; but luckily for my nerves (those of the ladies 
must here be good), I knew the firing to be proofs 
of our having arrived at our night's quarters, viz. 
the residence of my handsome elderly friend Tshumgh, 
who is a great merchant, and moreover a brave war- 
rior. The chiefs and others alighted just within the 
court-yard, but I was desired to advance to the door 
of the guest-house, where my robust and smiling 
host received me with great cordiality, and led me 
into a small but beautifully furnished apartment ; as 

VOL. I. I 



114 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



besides the rich stuff of its chief divan, it has a hang- 
ing of showy Turkish carpeting along all that side 
of the wall. 

I have mentioned before the abundance of good 
oak in this country. The other chief articles for 
England are wax, tallow, honey, hides (ox, horse, 
goat, and deer), hare-skins, &c. The only furs I 
have yet seen are fox and, I believe, fitch (a very 
beautiful fur), in great esteem at Constantinople 
for pelisses. The largest traders to the eastward are 
Armenians. They also draw away some articles even 
from these provinces, but are generally looked upon 
with suspicion ; and it will be no very difficult mat- 
ter, with proper arrangements, to cope with them. 
Wool is not plentiful hereabouts ; I believe it is more 
abundant inland. I have found ironstone abundant, 
and am promised, whenever the war is over, to be 
shown more, as well as where lead, silver, and precious 
stones, may be found. All articles of export I expect 
to find much more abundant and cheaper in the east- 
ern provinces, where they have less commercial con- 
nexion with Turkey. Articles of prime necessity to 
send here are bar and rod iron, and various British 
manufactures of cotton. 

Tuesday, 23d May 1837. — I intended to place 
our ample and varied supper of last night before you, 
but I have since seen greater wonders of that sort, 
and shall therefore rather tell you of our phrenologi- 
cal entertainment. 

My servant has a great hankering after the science, 
and having persuaded me in the south to try my skill 
on one or two, the fame of the science has travelled 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



115 



in our company ever since, and I am obliged every 
now and then to gratify some one curious to know 
his native qualities. But last night my slender 
knowledge was not left to grope in the dark, as his. 
reverence, Mehmet Effendi, who is something of a 
wag, and wished for a jest at the expense of our host, 
and of another elderly gentleman, who lives in this 
hamlet, gave me a secret hint beforehand of both 
their characters, viz., that the former was devoted to 
the fair sex, and the other spent much of his time in 
working very beautifully in silver. He then called 
upon me aloud to try my skill on these two subjects ; 
and our jolly host, after a little coyness, came for- 
ward, his handsome features kindled into so radiant 
a smile as seemed to me still sufficient to melt the 
hearts of ladies much younger, and good-naturedly 
placed himself on his haunches on a mat before me. 
His showy turban (for the usual sheepskin cap of the 
country would ill harmonize either with his face or 
devotion to the sex) was raised ; and, after going 
through a small list of his cerebral properties, I 
exposed his chief ones with all the surprise I could 
counterfeit, which produced a burst of real and long- 
continued laughter at his expense, in which he 
heartily joined. With respect to the other, I need 
only say, that he mended very neatly part of my 
musical-box, which had been broken in the house of 
a family in the south, and which I little expected to 
have got repaired in Circassia. 

Last night's supper has, as I said, been completely 
eclipsed by our dinner, or rather dinners, of to-day; for, 
besides Tshumgh, there is a younger person, named 

i 2 



116 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



Hatugh Usuk, who also dwells in this hamlet with 
his family, and is associated with the other in trade, 
(it was he brought the Sanjak-sherif from Constan- 
tinople,) and his lady, it appears, was resolved that 
her cookery should be displayed as well as that of the 
other household, and therefore we had to partake of 
two dinners, with an interval of only about half-an- 
hour — and two such dinners ! I attempted for a while 
to keep count of the tables, but lost it, and my man 
told me afterwards that I saw only a portion, for many 
dishes were kept back, when it was discovered we 
did not eat heartily enough of all ; but he says 
he saw the whole of both arrays displayed on the 
grass, and that one dinner consisted of forty-two, 
and the other of forty-five dishes. I am surprised 
our hostess did not contrive to get more correct intel- 
ligence of the number intended by the other. I 
thought I observed a grin of triumph exchanged 
among the active attendants, as they saw us latterly 
quite beaten, and picking morsels,, for form's sake, 
from some of their choicest preparations, which we 
had no appetite to enable us to eat more of. The 
majority of our dishes were, pastry with meat, 
pressed curds or honey, and tortured into all possible 
forms. 

Adughum, Thursday 25tk. — Yesterday, soon after 
the much-desired end of our second dinner, I was 
mounted, as the day before, upon Mehmet Effendi's 
white charger, though the animal is not quite reco- 
vered from a musket-shot, and we set forth for this 
place, amid another general discharge of fire-arms, 
and accompanied by both our hosts, the son of one 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



117 



of them, and their principal dependants. As we pro- 
ceeded down the populous and cultivated glen, several 
of the proprietors rode out and joined us : others I 
saw preparing in all haste to follow ; and when we 
came into a beautiful undulating valley of exceedingly 
rich meadows, our company — almost all w r ell mounted, 
and all (but myself) well armed, now in close order 
passing through some lane or ford, and then spread 
abroad over a flowery field in the race, or mimic 
charges — produced equally gallant and varied effects. 
Our yesterday's journey was nearly due north in direc- 
tion and about six hours in duration: the direction was 
now a little to the eastward of north. I was shown, to 
our left, the site of one of the very many bloody battles 
of last year. It must have been such to the Circassians, 
as the openness of the country must have given great 
effect to the cannon of the Russians ; and that they 
also suffered very severely is sufficiently proved, by their 
having turned back from proceeding to Anapa, which 
seemed originally their intention, and further corro- 
borated by the circumstances I have already men- 
tioned of Williamineff having subsequently effected 
his passage of the Kuban only through the forbear- 
ance of the Circassians, upon his perjuring himself 
as to the war being at an end. 

We rode for about four hours through this valley, 
or succession of valleys, the hills on both sides of 
which are low, especially to the north-west. The 
pasture everywhere was exceedingly rich, enamelled 
in many places profusely with tall blue and yellow 
flowers, while giant trees here and there showed what 
a luxuriant forest had formerly prevailed. Many 



118 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



fields were well inclosed, and gave good promise of 
harvest ; for the Circassians have not despaired of 
saving even this open part of their country, though 
they feel certain it is destined to be attacked again 
this year. The road, almost all the way, was excel- 
lent ; and here and there 1 saw traces of the enemy 
in ashes of houses, camp-fires, &c. As we rode along, 
a person arrived with intelligence that another large 
detachment of Russian infantry (and less cavalry than 
last year, for the cavalry have been proved almost 
useless against the Circassians,) had crossed the Kuban 
and proceeded to the forts on the Abun ; and when 
we stopped to breathe our horses under the shade of 
a large tree, the mailed moliah came to take farewell 
of me, as the enemy had entered his neighbourhood, 
and it was necessary he should go forward in haste, 
to see to the safety of his family and effects. " I may 
fall," said he, " in the approaching battles, and never 
see you again in this world ; but I hope God will 
grant you long life and happiness, for the exertions 
you are making for my country." I replied as suit- 
ably as I could, for the style of his address was grave 
and (like the circumstances) impressive; and gave 
him a case of English priming-powder to divide 
among his neighbours. On a rocky height, towards 
the north of these valleys, I was told there were ruins 
of an ancient castle, (Genoese as they are always 
called,) and the remains of another to the westward. 

From the valleys we debouched upon a level plain 
not apparently so rich as the valleys, yet affording * 
grazing to large herds of oxen and horses ; beyond 
it northward the view terminated in what seemed 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



119 



forest, but the skirts of it were open, and many houses 
and well-inclosed fields were to be seen on both 
sides. 

We had not advanced far when, passing the dwell- 
ing of Mensur Bey, said by all to be their best leader 
in battle, and to have, as it were, a charmed life, for 
he is covered with wounds; and of Hatukwoi, formerly, 
and I hope I may say still, the chief of Ghelenjik; 
we turned into the ample inclosure of the wealthy 
proprietor whose guest-house I now occupy. Our 
field was immediately filled with men and horses, for 
this is the place where the congress of deputies had 
been appointed to assemble, but a large number, they 
say, had just left it in consequence of the invasion of 
the Russians to the eastward. Our journey yesterday 
was of about five hours. 

Thursday, 25tk. — The arrival of another English- 
man at Pshat having been generally known some 
days since, his not making his appearance so soon as 
was expected gave rise to great impatience among 
the numerous assemblage here, and has put me to my 
shifts to engage their attention as much as possible 
by debating and deciding upon such things as I 
thought least likely to be affected by any news he 
might bring. At length my resources have failed 
me, and some rather disagreeable things having been 
reported to me as having been said, I have sent off a 
second messenger to hasten his arrival. I have had 
occasion to remark here as elsewhere the constant 
observance paid to the gradations of rank — all the 
greater individuals having their respective places at 
debates and meals readily assigned and conceded them. 



120 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



Luca, after having two or three invitations, has been 
to see the family of our host, and taken presents for 
two pretty girls in it. I gave one of our inmates, 
who was unwell, some pills to swallow, but so little 
idea had he of any thing of the kind, that he chewed 
them and declared them very nasty. 

Friday, 26th. — Yesterday, about mid-day, just as 
we were going to dine, word was brought me, amid 
great bustle, that the other Englishman approached; 
firing of pistols ensued, and going out I saw a great 
cavalcade enter our field, with my countryman (Mr, 
L— ), and a gay silk Circassian standard in the 
midst. After we had dined, mutually communicated 
our news, and agreed upon what was best to be done 
under all circumstances, we accepted an invitation to 
go out and speak to the congress, which was assem- 
bled on the green in great force. Mats and cushions 
were laid on the grass for us, the new national banner 
waved over us, a small space was left for air, and 
around this there was a dense mass of Circassian 
warriors, from grey-beards to boys, and all the neigh- 
bouring trees were loaded with them. Proceedings 
were about to begin, when there was a cry from the 
rear, and immediately those in the circle behind the 
inner one (which was composed entirely of old men or 
persons of the first rank) seated themselves also. 
Those behind stood on their knees, and thus a pretty 
large number was gratified by sight as well as sound ; 
while by far the largest portion had to be content with 
the latter. Our proceedings commenced by an expres- 
sion on the part of the assembly of their eagerness to 
learn if Mr. L had brought them any intelligence 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



121 



from Constantinople. Such as he had was communi- 
cated to them, and followed up by exhortations from 
the chiefs to the whole assembly to exert themselves 
to make a well-combined and vigorous defence in the 
present campaign. Mensur made a short and ener- 
getic speech, the chief purport of which was to state 
how the Turks had betrayed and deserted them, and 
to show the necessity for the English coming quickly 
to their aid, if they meant to do so at all, because the 
supply of powder here is quite inadequate to a pro- 
tracted defence. Others also spoke, and the results 
of the debate were an expression of great satisfaction 
on the part of the Circassians at what they had heard, 
and of their determination to use their greatest efforts 
to bring as many men into the field as possible, and 
to do their utmost to impede the operations of the 
Russians. We then retired to our own house, and 
the Circassians to another part of the green, when a 
long and animated debate was held by them upon the 
ways and means of the present campaign, and upon 
letters they had received from Sefir Bey. These letters 
afforded most opportune confirmation of the general 
tenour.of our communications; and they contained 
instructions from Sefir Bey, (at the instance, as was 
said, of the English ambassador) with regard to an 
embassy which was to be sent to the Russian general, 
proposing peace on a mutual engagement not to 
commit depredations on each other's territories, 
England becoming guarantee for the fidelity of the 
Circassians. This affair was arranged, and three 
persons selected accordingly as heralds, one of them 
being the younger merchant from Aghsmug, who has 



122 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



frequently been so employed before, and goes readily 
again, although the barbarian Russians fired upon 
him as he retired from his last mission ! The Cir- 
cassians say that a charmed life has been given him, 
because he brought them their Sanjak-sherif. In 
these letters Seflr Bey bespeaks a kind reception for 
us from his countrymen, and that they should relax 
their national usages (wherein I know not) in our 
favour. 

After the more important business of the day was 
over, I found it determined on that I must shift 
quarters, as those I was in, though very good, seemed 
to be thought not suitable : so I packed up and 

removed here with Mr. L to the best furnished 

house by far I have been in. 

Our landlord is Kalabat-Oku Hatukwoi, hereditary 
chief of Ghelenjik, the reversionary interest in which 
place I would gladly pay him a good sum for, and 
take my chance of the speedy ejectment of the 
present incumbents ; so convinced am I that England 
will act as humanity and self-interest so clearly 
prescribe. This chief is one of the most aspiring- 
looking persons I have seen in this country ; and I 
have little doubt, from what I see of his household 
arrangements, that when this all-engrossing war is 
over he will be among the foremost to show an 
example in adding to the comforts and elegances of 
domestic economy. 

By 8 o'clock this morning there were ranged 
along the sides of our large field here the horses of 
about ninety visiters, which showed a busy day might 
be expected — and such it has proved : but the busi- 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



123 



ness lay principally among the chiefs, in arrangements 
for the approaching campaign, our only material part 
consisting in the reception of Hatuk-oku Seliman (of 
the noble Yedig fraternity), a leading chief from 
the province of Abazak, who has come to proffer the 
services of his neighbours in aiding in the war. We 
made him a present, and impressed upon him the 
necessity of a strong effort being made this year ; 
and in illustration of the benefits of combined action 
told them of the Roman fasces, which seemed to 
produce an impression ; for, like other Asiatics (as 
they may be classed), metaphor is in great use 
among them. 

Throughout last night and this morning a great 
deal of cannon firing has been heard, and Prince 
Basti-ku Pshemaff (descended from the first settlers 
of Sujuk), who seems to me to have more valour 
than discretion (yet he is among the most polite), has 
got quite impatient, and says it is a shame for them 
not to go to the scene of action. We replied that 
none need stay from it on our account against his 
will, and that we only waited the return of the heralds 
to go there also. 

A little ago Luca, my Georgian servant, came 
running in, and said, " Here are two Poles just 
escaped from Abun \" We desired to see them, 
and they were marshalled in, hot from travel, with 
their grey great- coats thrown over their shoulders, 
and great Russian boots on. One of them, whose 
face seemed to denote some anxiety, I found could 
speak German ; and having questioned him in that 
language, while Luca talked Russian with the other, 



124 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



we found their accounts corresponded in substance — 
viz. that the present army at Abun (independently 
of the one arrived by sea at Ghelenjik) consists of 
8,000 men and twenty-four pieces of artillery ; 
and that there is this year a much larger propor- 
tion of infantry than last year. Our conversation 
was interrupted by their being called away to dinner, 
and upon expressing our hope that they would be 
well treated, one of the chiefs replied that they 
always did so by the Poles; that they admitted 
them to their tables, gave them but light labour to 
perform, and did not sell them to the Turks who 
trade to the coast without their own consent. 

The country round this is almost flat, but then 
there are many thickets of oaks, &c, which must be 
to the advantage of the Circassian mode of warfare. 
The higher hills are about ten miles distant. The 
Adughum is at present but a small stream, and 
where the water is deep in it, as well as most of the 
other streams, I have observed even among the 
mountains and in this dry weather, that there is a 
good deal of alluvium suspended, so that the bottom 
cannot be seen; which proves, so far, the general 
richness of the soil. 

Shepsugu, May 28. — On Friday afternoon we 
rode over to this beautifully seated hamlet in about 
four hours ; for the first half of which our road lay 
among woods, corn-fields, and hamlets, by a gentle 
ascent : and the last over small hills well wooded 
with oak, and a good deal cultivated, many charm- 
ingly seated hamlets presenting themselves, especially 
as we came on the banks of the beautifully winding 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



125 



mountain-stream Sheps, on which this hamlet stands. 
On our way through the hills two old men of our 
numerous escort learned, for the first time, that a 
son of each had just fallen in a skirmish with the 
Russians, in consequence of which news the party 
halted on a little hillock ; and, turning up the palms 
of their hands, uttered a short prayer for the deceased. 
I tried to find out, by the expression of features of 
the old men of our company, which were the two 
who had suffered this bereavement, but I saw no 
recognisable indications ; which corroborated so far 
what I have been often told, that the Circassians, 
instead of grieving for relatives who fall in the 
Russian war, rather envy them their martyrdom, 
On the side of the road opposite this house is a 
newly-made grave, inclosed within strong wooden 
rails, where the father of the family we now lodge 
with was lately interred ; and consequently before 
entering the guest-house our party formed a circle 
on the green before the door, and again said the 
prayer for the departed — his eldest son, a very grace- 
ful lad of fourteen, standing by — after which several 
of the chiefs who were present embraced him affec- 
tionately. The more I see of these people the more 
I admire and love them. Of the beautiful scenery 
hereabouts I shall say nothing, in the hope that the 
sketch I have made may convey a somewhat better 
idea of it. On Tuesday night there was a good deal 
of cannon firing, but since that there has been no 
more heard, and we learn that the Russians, after 
some fighting by the way (to what extent I don't 
know, but there have just been shown me the riband 



126 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



and medals of a Russian soldier slain), have reached 
Ghelenjik, and there joined the army brought by sea 
from Odessa. This junction is unfortunate, but how 
far the Circassians had it in their power to prevent 
it I have not at present the means of knowing. 

May 29. — To-day the heralds returned with an 
insolent and blasphemous letter from the Russian 
commander Williamineff. I sent you by the mes- 
senger who carried the answer to Sefir Bey's letter, 
a hurried translation I made of its contents on their 
being read over to us, and of the reply that has been 
sent. You will not fail to observe in General 
Williamineff's letter the attempt to fix the Cir- 
cassians as still subjects of the Sublime Porte, and 
as rebels to its authority, but not to that of Russia. 
I suspect that the general and the minister will 
prove to be as much at cross-purposes on this subject, 
as the admirals and the minister were on the grounds 
of seizure in the case of the Vixen. 

Some future Circassian historian will be posed in 
searching for the answer to this document, amid 
their archives, as the only copy of it Mehmet Effendi 
has kept are some scattered notes on the back of 
another letter. He says he wrote and inclosed their 
answer in abundance of paper, as if that and other 
articles of the sort were plentiful among them, while 
the contrary is the case. 

I have learned one valuable fact this morning, 
which I have no doubt will be fully appreciated by 
those who take an interest in arresting the general 
progress of the Russians — viz. that the Kabardans 
(the prime Circassian stock), who have long been in 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



127 



some degree subject to them, and have, of late at 
least, contributed recruits to their armies, have now 
refused to do so, because they have learned that 
Englishmen are here, and that England is about to 
interfere for the independence of Circassia. Luca 
tells me Mensur Bey was in tears to-day at news of 
the death of a warrior, who he said was equal to 
thirty ordinary men. He and nine others attacked 
a body of 150 Cossacks, among whom he rushed 
alone, sabre in hand, but fell after having slain only 
three. 

During the long debates which took place to-day 
in congress on the letters, the retainers of the chiefs 
amused themselves (as they had done on former occa- 
sions) with " putting the stone," under a broiling 
sun. The stone weighed about five okes (fourteen 
pounds), and they pitched it (without a race) fifty -one 
feet ; yet this violent exercise seemed to make none 
of them perspire. I have made the same remark 
when men on foot were keeping up with our horses, 
on the most difficult mountain-paths. For me the 
exercise of writing is enough to make me perspire ; 
and the ingress of air by my (foot square) window is 
barred by the throng of gazers. If I go out to write 
in the shade, matters are little mended ; a curious 
circle immediately thrusts itself " between the wind 
and my nobility ;" and no sooner have I got one set 
to remove, by allowing it a peep, than another takes 
its place. But the congress is at an end, and I hope 
for some respite from such crowds, at least till a week 
hence, when another and a greater meeting is ap- 
pointed to take placed 



LETTER VI. 



BREAKING UP OF THE CONGRESS.— RESIDENCE IN 
THE UPPER VALLEYS OF ABUN AND PSHAT. 

Ankhur, Wednesday, 3\st May. 

My dear — — . On Monday afternoon we set 
out from the picturesque and beautiful valley of 
the Sheps ; and having traversed the hill on its 
eastern side, which is pretty hgh and covered with 
fine forest, we came upon the still more beautiful 
and rich valley of the Shebiz. It appeared appro- 
priated and cultivated throughout. We crossed it 
and its eastern woody hill in a north-easterly direc- 
tion, and stopped awhile at one village (or rather 
hamlet, as they all are) on the small stream Sheps- 
ugu, till .our chiefs had paid their respects to the 
family of a chief who had just died, in consequence 
of wounds received in opposing the Russians a few 
days ago, when some of his retainers were severely 
wounded ; and at another till they served us some 
refreshment on the grass. Here a wedding was 
being celebrated, many of both sexes were assembled ; 
and after we had left I learned that there had been 
a talk of having the females to perform a dance 
before us, which to my regret had been deemed 
inconsistent with the gravity of our mission and the 
dignity of the station assigned us— "Then, happy 
low, lie down," &c. 

The crossing of another wooded hill brought us 
upon the valley of the Waff, which stream is still 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



129 



smaller than the two last named. — Here, although 
quite unexpected, our large party was heartily re- 
ceived by one Jambolet (said to be a very brave and 
active warrior), whose hamlet, seated half-way up 
the eastern hill of the valley, betokened the wealth 
of its proprietor by its well-finished buildings 
and ample enclosures for pasture and agriculture. 
Our supper consisted of a great array of dishes, 
although about the half of what had been prepared 
had been sent to some neighbouring houses for 
Shamuz and others, who had gone there for greater 
accommodation. We have news this evening of 
another sortie and foray from Anapa, but of no 
material consequence. 

Yesterday, after an early and ample dinner, we 
set forth for this place accompanied by our host ; 
and having ascended on our way a high and well- 
wooded hill, we got view of the splendid plain of the 
Kuban, stretching on the north and east as far as the 
horizon, and terminating to the west in gradually 
ascending hills. But objects of more immediate 
interest lay beneath us ; viz. — the valley of the Abun 
with its two recently erected Russian forts. This 
valley has been well chosen as an intersection of the 
hostile country ; for although it terminates toward 
the west in the somewhat difficult defile where, as 
I mentioned above, the Circassians last year made 
a strong stand against their invaders, the valley 
expands rapidly and considerably to the north. At 
the commencement of this expansion is the first fort 
of some twelve guns, within whose range a few cattle 
were grazing. On both sides of it are heights from 

VOL. I. K 



130 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



which it appeared to me practicable to destroy it in 
a very short time. To the westward of north at a 
distance of about five miles from this fort (called 
Nicolaefski) stands that of Abun, on the long gentle 
slope of the hill we descended. So far as I could see, 
its site seemed well chosen and not commanded by 
any height within cannon-range. It seemed a com- 
plete square of about two hundred yards, enclosed by 
a low sod parapet and a fosse, within which appear 
some substantial wooden barracks, &c. It is said 
that it is defended by twenty pieces of cannon and 
two thousand men, half of whom are Poles. 

The valley of the Abun is at present destitute of 
inhabitants ; but the ruins of fences and houses show 
that it has had plenty ; and the loss of its agriculture 
must have been to them a great one, were there not 
still plenty of unoccupied land, as I have yet no where 
seen such rich vegetation. In many places the 
graminaceous plants reached half-way up the saddle 
girths ; and, in some few, still higher. 

The Abun is the largest stream next to the Adug- 
hum we have passed. After fording it we made a 
slight curve towards the fortress, and here, without 
thinking much of cannon-range, I wished to stop to 
examine the fort through a glass, but the Circassians 
requested me to proceed a little further for that pur- 
pose ; because, if we stopped at this place, the Rus- 
sians would certainly open their guns upon us. Yet 
I saw still nearer to the fort some Circassians who 
were said to be employed gathering the grass of the 
valley. I did not dispute the point, as may be sup- 
posed ; and, going a little further, we came to a 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



131 



rising ground where we found a fire, water, and 
some men, who are constantly stationed there as an 
outlook on the garrison of the fort. Here we dis- 
mounted and leisurely surveyed the enemy. A little 
beyond this, we came to a mound about eighty feet 
high, which seemed to me artificial, probably the 
ancient tomb of some great chief ; and, a little fur- 
ther on, to a village, whose inhabitants still remained 
in their dwellings, though so near the fort and the 
scene of the late invasion. Here we again dis- 
mounted for mid-day prayers, during which we 
ghiaours got hold of two Polish deserters, who 
willingly answered all our inquiries about the Rus- 
sians and their forts. 

The rest of our six-hours' ride thither was through 
forest, interspersed with grazings, corn-fields, and 
hamlets ; but this forest has few large trees in it, 
being chiefly composed of young ones, or of shoot- 
ings from the roots of former trunks, — for the hun- 
dred years of Russian war seem to have restored to 
the dominion of nature vast tracts of this plain that 
were formerly cultivated. At Ankhur (for the first 
time I have witnessed such an occurrence) some 
hesitation was shown about receiving our party. 
On explanation, I found that our host, during the 
late invasion, had sent off his bedding, &c. to the 
hills for security ; and, our coming being unexpected, 
he feared he could not accommodate us properly. 
There seemed some reason in this demur; yet 
Shamuz' son, Noghai, made his young features 
express to me all the contempt of which they are 

K 2 



132 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



capable — so inherent and high are their notions 
hereof the duties of hospitality ! We find no lack 
of food, however, and the mutton is exceedingly fat 
and good. 

-Word has just arrived that more troops have 
crossed the Kuban, and that the Ghelenjik army 
has advanced upon Pshat. The former, therefore, 
are supposed to be intended as a diversion to keep 
the people of this district from going to the aid of 
their countrymen on the coast : but Hatukwoi and 
some others have, notwithstanding, left for that 
purpose. 

While at Shepsegu, we learned, one afternoon, 
that a council was being held to raise a subscription 
to buy horses for us and our servants : we put a stop 
to this by insisting on being allowed to pay for 
them ourselves ; and, after a little amicable sparring, 
we carried our point, nominating Mensur, and one 
or two other judges of horse-flesh, to see that we got 

good cattle. The consequence is, that Mr. L 

has gotten one of the strongest, and I one of the 
handsomest and fleetest, horses I have seen, and for 
about seven and nine pounds respectively. Mine is 
a dark grey, and was the favourite horse of the Prince 
of Semez, who is as proud as he is poor, and now 
demurs about accepting payment. I hope he will 
yield this point, otherwise I must return the horse, 
and shall be sorry to lose him. He is without fault 
— save a little shying— and as lively and willing as 
he is gentle. To look after the horses we have hired 
a servant who is noble by descent ; but he has no 
longer either property or relatives, and must accept 



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133 



service — horsekeeping, however, is considered much 
the least degrading. 

This afternoon Mr. L. and I took a ride to the 
field of two battles ; one of last year, which lasted 
several days, and the other, which occurred about 
ten days since. It is a level open plain, bordered 
by wood and low hills on the north and east. The 
infinite superiority of the Circassian cavalry must 
give them great advantage on clear level ground ; 
but I question if this be not counterbalanced by the 
execution artillery must do there ; and the mere 
circumstance of the Circassians having disputed such 
ground for many days should serve to prove their 
extraordinary courage. 

On our way we met a mailed chief, of very war- 
like port, who, with his retinue, dismounted to 
salute us (of him more anon), and were joined by 
a young man I had observed before, as remarkable 
even among his countrymen for his active and 
powerful form. We were informed he had lately 
captured a Russian standard and five soldiers. 
"And what did you do with them?" "Sold 
them, to be sure ! " Here is one great inducement 
to go to battle, as a brave active man may stock his 
farm with labourers, or make a little capital by sale 
of his prisoners. Their market value, however, at 
present is only from 3l. to 51., which may show 
that the supply is large. This young man showed 
us, beside the excellent management of his horse, 
and the uncovering, cocking and firing of his gun 
at a bonnet on the ground while at full gallop, an- 
other feat I had not before seen ; viz. leaping out of 



134 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



his saddle on to the ground ; and, at the same in- 
stant almost, uncovering his rifle or unsheathing his 
sabre. If the Russian soldiers here are no better 
men than those I have seen at Sevastopol, &c. they 
must, individually, be as children in the hands even 
of the generality of the Circassians. 

On our return we found that the chief we had met 
was Tshuruk-oku Tuguz, and that he was in wait- 
ing to pay his respects. He has been to the interior, 
and he brings us most unexpected and welcome 
news ; viz. that he met there some of the chiefs of 
some of the eastern provinces, which Russia has 
occupied and hitherto kept from acting ; and that 
they told him they had refused the Russian general 
a supply of 1000 cavalry, in consequence of having 
heard that England is about to interfere in favour of 
Circassia ; and that if Mr. L. or I would only go there 
or even send some of our clothes, or anything else, 
to prove Englishmen were here, it would be sufficient 
to rouse the whole country against the Russians. 
But the most extraordinary part of his news is, that 
these chiefs have received a letter from the Noghais 
(on the other side of the Kuban) saying that a simi- 
lar requisition of cavalry, viz. thirty from each village, 
has been made upon them, and that they too, having 
heard of England's interposition, are determined to 
resist, and wish to co-operate with the Circassians. 
I don't recollect if I told vou that, at Indar-oku's at 
Pshat, I met with a person from Khazan*, who said 
he had been deputed by his countrymen to come to 
Circassia and see if the report they had heard that 

* One of the Tatar Khanats long since subdued by Russia. 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



135 



England was going to aid her in establishing her 
independence were true. He said he had waited 
twenty months to see some proof to be depended 
upon ; and if such were given, he had no doubt of 
the whole of his countrymen immediately rising in 
arms against the Russians ! See what a mighty 
conflagration of all Russia's structures and designs 
may be made, if the spark of liberty here be duly 
cherished ! 

This afternoon I have been shown a rifle made 
here, whose calibre is such, that two of my fingers 
together can just enter the barrel, which is very long 
and strong. It must do good execution. Cannon 
and even musket-firing having been heard here 
throughout the day, our horses and servants are 
bivouacked round a great fire at the end of the house, 
ready for a start, if necessary : and we have been 
cautioned not to go far from our hamlet unescorted, 
as the Russians are supposed to have offered a reward 
for our capture. 

Tipper Abun, Monday, 5th June. — We staid for 
three days with the host at Ankhur, who demurred, 
and then we moved a little distance westward to the 
hamlet of three brothers, in a richer portion of the 
plain, whose clumps of stately oaks, verdant meadows, 
and heavy crops of corn, brought England vividly 
before me. Mr. L. has frequently exclaimed, 
" This is just like England ! " The climate also 
appears very similar. The heavy dews over night, 
by their evaporation each morning, give for some 
hours a delicious freshness to the air. This family 
appear to be wealthy, judging by their large herds 



136 



RESIDENCE IN C1RCASSIA. 



of cattle, horses and brood-mares. During our three 
days' stay there, cannon were again frequently heard ; 
but they seemed to be little heeded amid business 
of more immediate interest; viz., the deliberating 
upon and writing answers to the letters of Sefir Bey, 
and the reception of a deputation from the northern 
portion of Abazak, sent for the purpose of offering to 
assist, and concert operations with, the people of 
Shapsuk and Notwhatsh. The chiefs of these two dis- 
tricts, who are here, wished some effect given to an 
interview with us : mats and cushions were therefore 
spread for us under a tree in the large outer park — 
the national banner was brought forth, and planted 
beside us, and it was then announced to the Abazaks, 
who were in waiting in another park, that we were 
ready to receive them. As they drew nigh, the con- 
gregation around us opened on one side into a vista, 
through which were to be seen advancing Mehmet 
Effendi, hand in hand with another young judge 
(one of the deputies) of very agreeable and intelligent 
features ; and behind them, some eight or ten of the 
older chiefs and dependants. After they had been 
formally introduced, had shaken hands, and seated 
themselves on the grass, our news were communicated, 
and were followed by some pretty sharp observations 
on our part, as to the fatal consequences that must 
result to the interior provinces themselves, unless 
they immediately took means to afford more effectual 
assistance to those on the frontier during the present 
campaign. The chief of the latter had requested us 
so to speak, and it appeared to produce the desired 
effect, for a portion of the deputation remained to 



RESIDENCE IN C1RCASSIA. 



137 



take part immediately in the hostilities, and the rest 
returned home to bring forward their forces. 

One of these chiefs, a remarkably vigorous and 
lively man, who had not arrived in time to be present 
at the public interview, had afterwards a private one, 
when the same observations were made to him ; to 
which he jokingly replied, that we should be de- 
tained in the country till we saw and owned that the 
co-operation between the people of the three pro- 
vinces was complete and effectual. Among other 
matters it was debated, whether I should proceed to 

the interior with some of these Abazaks, (Mr. L 

having resolved on proceeding towards the Russian 
army) ; but our friends here appearing averse to such 
an arrangement for the present, I agreed to defer the 
visit. 

All congressional matters having at length been 
disposed of, we all set out on Sunday forenoon, after 
an early meal, towards Pshat. Our route lay up the 
valley of the Ankhur, which has pleasing scenery, 
and a good deal of cultivation, and, having halted on 
the banks of the stream for mid-day prayers, we 
turned from its banks, and struck up a rather steep 
and high mountain on our right, covered with very 
stately forest, through which we toiled our way for 
some time, glad, however, to be sheltered from a 
broiling sun. At length, as we descended, we ob- 
tained a view through the trees of an exceedingly 
beautiful valley, with undulations of the richest pas- 
ture, corn-fields and woodland, and bordered by hills 
clothed with lofty forests. On inquiring the name 
of this enchanting vale, I learned it was another 



138 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



portion of that of A bun, whose exceeding fertility I 
have already spoken of, but which I then supposed to 
terminate near Ghelenjik; I find however that it 
extends a long way to the eastward, beyond Pshat. 
We turned a short way down it to the west, and 
halted for the day at a hamlet, within some five or 
six miles of Nicolaefski. I attempted a sketch of this 
hamlet and its neighbouring scenery, but was so 
hurried and so annoyed by heat and lookers-on, that 
I fear little idea of the beauties of the place will be 
gained from it. Two buildings in front of our guest- 
house, which I saw frequented by several boys, at- 
tracted my curiosity ; and I was agreeably surprised 
to hear that one of them is a school-house, the other 
is a mosque. Youths are here boarded during their 
education in reading and writing Turkish. I learn 
that there are many such educational establishments 
throughout the country. 

This morning, after an early meal, we left the last- 
mentioned hamlet, and, in three to four hours, reached 
that in which we now are. The whole of this ride 
was up the valley of the Abun, and it appears to 
extend as far beyond where we now are. In its 
course it forms four or five great curves, besides an 
infinity of minor meanderings ; its stream is one of 
the largest, most lively, and limpid I have crossed in 
this excursion ; its bordering mountains are of great 
variety of form and height, and richly clothed with 
forests, interspersed with patches of bright green 
pasture, while its surface undulates throughout, and 
presents at every turning alternations of magnificent 
woodlands, luxuriant herbage, corn-fields, and nume- 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



139 



rous hamlets., Altogether I have not yet seen, among 
the many lovely valleys of this country, one that has 
pleased me more — always excepting that of Terampse, 
near Mamai. 

Wednesday, 7tk June.— We are here at the hamlet 
of an elderly and sage-looking person, not noble, yet 
said to be in good circumstances, although (judging 
by our tables) I should suppose them to be inferior to 
those of most of the persons we have yet visited, as 
our fare (rather to my satisfaction) is more simple. 
We presume, however, that our being put up here is 
merely a temporary expedient, until the chiefs make 
some other arrangement for us. They all left for 
Pshat soon after our arrival on Monday, after an 
animated debate upon the present campaign, during 
which Mr. L. pressed the point of being permitted to 
accompany them, and take part in any enterprise 
that might be determined on. But they resolutely 
withstood this, saying that, at first, while things are 
somewhat unarranged, and very many strangers from 
the interior constantly arriving, to whom our mission 
has not been explained, it might be dangerous for us 
to be on the field, as, if amid the haste and confusion 
that may occur in their first operations, we should get 
separated from those we are known to, we might be 
fired at or cut down as enemies. In their irregular 
mode of warfare, each chief at the head of his 
dependants attacking the enemy as he sees favourable 
opportunities occur, this advice may probably be 
just. We wish much to get a sight of what is going 
on at Pshat ; but must restrain our curiosity for a 
day or two at least, when some of the chiefs have 



140 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



promised to return with a report of proceedings and 
to make further arrangements about us. 

I am sorry to say that on our way here we learnt 
that the Russians had succeeded in reaching Pshat 
without much loss, owing chiefly, I believe, to the 
deficiency of powder among the people throughout 
this neighbourhood. We were told also that a mira- 
culous meteor had appeared in the heavens above 
them, forming a semicircle, and exploding. Fortu- 
nately it has been construed by the Circassians into 
an omen of the destruction of their invaders. The 
probability is, that it was a rocket sent up by 
WilliaminefF, to announce his arrival at Pshat to the 
commander at Ghelenjik, but this solution we keep 
to ourselves. We have just been told that the Hadji 
Ghuz Beg, whom I met at Jubghe on a mission to 
call his countrymen to the war, had just performed 
alone a most daring exploit at the other end of this 
valley. He had observed the ground where the 
soldiers of Nicolaefski brought out the cattle of the 
garrison to graze under the guns ; and, watching his 
opportunity, rushed upon the guard (when their arms 
were stacked I presume) and succeeded in killing 
two, and bringing off one prisoner besides nine 
muskets ! 

Yesterday we had a visit from Sultan Khurghun 
Gheri, who is a relation of the Sultan of Turkey. 
He lives in this neighbourhood, and he spoke very 
despondingly of the affairs of this country ; but it 
seemed to me that his phlegmatic constitution was in 
great measure the cause of his taking so melancholy 
a view. He showed us, for what reason I know not, 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



141 



a Russian passport with which two years ago he had 
come here from Constantinople by Anapa. 

In the evening, while our attendants and some of the 
men of this hamlet were seated on our plat of grass, 
two of their two-stringed violins were produced, and 
among the eight or nine men present there were four 
who played very well. Almost every guest-house 
appears to be furnished with a violin. Two of the 
songs had some very poetical ideas and subjects 
The first, sung to a highly plaintive melody, was 
composed in memory of a young man who was mar- 
ried last year, but a Russian inroad having taken 
place on his wedding-day, he went immediately to 
battle, and was slain. The other was composed in 
consolation (it may be said) of Tshorat-oku Hamuz, a 
very brave old tokav, who was the principal spokes- 
man at the debate on Monday, and who is gone with 
the rest against the Russians at Pshat. In a very 
bloody engagement with the Russians last year he 
lost four brothers, four sons, and was himself very 
severely wounded. He is quite lame of one leg. — 
The only thing I have heard at all analogous to 
the music of these songs is the chanting in church 
service. 

The temperature of late has been quite chilly 
throughout the night, and in the mornings and 
evenings a fire has been decidedly a comfort. 

Fired with the ambition of seeing beyond the hills 
in front of our dwelling here, (which bar the view 
toward Pshat,) Mr. L. and I got a person to accom- 
pany us to-day to the top of one of them, about 
1200 to 1400 feet high. Almost to this height we 



142 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



found a road, evidently much used both by horses 
and cattle ; and we observed a large herd of the latter 
grazing on an adjoining hill. The pasture, even at 
this altitude, was excellent, indeed as rich as any I 
have seen ; and from the hill on which we were, a 
high undulating plateau extended for a considerable 
distance to the south-east, affording as fine grazing 
for a large stock of flocks and herds as any Cheviot 
farmer could desire. 

The view from this summit was more than an am- 
ple recompense for the trouble in reaching it. Before 
us, at the distance of from twelve to fifteen miles lay 
a wide expanse of the Black Sea ; to the right were 
the valley of the Heyderbeh, behind that of Ghelenjik ; 
and the ridge of lofty hills that separates them. I saw 
for the first time a small straight valley (called 
Mezip) which sends a streamlet to the sea a little to 
the eastward of Ghelenjik. At a right angle to this 
valley runs that of the Sutshuk, the whole extent of 
which was visible from where we stood, and both val- 
leys had acquired additional interest since our former 
passage, from the circumstance of the Russian army 
having, in the interim, made its way by them to 
Pshat. We had hoped to have seen the latter valley 
also, or at least, a portion of it, from this eminence, 
but intervening heights rendered it invisible. 

The sides of this and all the adjoining hills are 
clothed with deep forests. The wood through which 
we passed consists principally of beeches of great 
height and girth. At every hamlet here (as well 
indeed as elsewhere throughout the country) gardens 
are to be seen well-inclosed and stocked with cabbage, 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



143 



onions, scarlet and other beans, hemp, lint, tobacco, 
and often the rmich-prized nitre-plant. We have 
now occasional showers. The mid-day sun is but 
little hotter than it is when unclouded in England 
at this season ; and, upon the whole, I see as yet — 
with the exception of more fine weather — little differ- 
ence from our climate. The vegetation also seems 
to present but little novelty, as I fear the collection 
of plants I have made will prove. Among the birds 
also I recognise all those most common with us, such 
as the blackbird, thrush, goldfinch, groundlark, and 
common sparrow. The nightingale is occasionally 
heard here. Wood-pigeons are numerous, and seem 
in fine condition ; but this I must as yet take on 
trust, for although the Circassians have not, like the 
Turks, any superstitious prejudice against killing 
pigeons (as I found to-day on inquiry), yet they seem 
to have a game-law against their being killed at this 
season when they are engaged with their young. 
Abundance of crested and other woodpeckers are to 
be seen ; but I have not been able to see a single 
pheasant, quail, or partridge. I am told the two 
former are numerous on the plain of the Kuban. At 
Sujuk, and elsewhere, I have seen a remarkably 
beautiful species of wild duck, a specimen of which I 
shall endeavour to send home for stuffing. Eagles 
are frequently to be seen, and all the hawk tribe 
abound in the absence of the fowling-piece and small 
shot, and the consequent abundance of their prey. 
Hares, from the same cause, are abundant every- 
where : and foxes, as might be expected, are not 
wanting. Wild boars and fallow-deer are scattered 



144 RESIDENCE IN C1RCASSIA. 

throughout all the larger forests, but the rifle pre- 
vents them multiplying. 

But the community of ants has amused my many 
leisure hours (you may think I reckon too much on 
yours) as much as any. Here, among many others, 
is one species about half an inch in length. Their 
hill, built of pieces of straw and clay, is fully a foot 
high, and has many lanes of approach through the 
grass, completely cleared of every impediment, and as 
well trodden as any highway in the country, par- 
ticularly the principal one, much broader than the 
rest, which in two instances I have traced for more 
than twenty feet, terminating in little thickets of 
grass and plants, where probably most food is to be 
found. 

If I have now been writing trifles, you must blame 
Tshuskha, a judge (and penman of course), who has 
sat looking closely over me for some time, thus 
obliging me (as every trifle about us is so attentively 
observed), for the character of my country's intellect, 
to show no hesitation in my composition. 

I write at present in the house of the atalic of the 
Sultan Khurghun Gheri, and in the near neighbour- 
hood of that of the latter, which must be convenient 
for him, as he has gotten into the habit of putting 
himself to the trouble of riding daily to the hamlet 
we are in, to spend his idle time (a tolerably large 
portion of the whole) beside us. He is one who does 
not bother himself about state or even military 
affairs ; and this latter circumstance, combined with 
his Russian passport, makes him, as we have been 
informed this morning, suspected among his country- 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



145 



men, of traitorous inclinations. Yet weak as he 
seems to be, I do not think, if he had formed any 
designs, he would have gratuitously shown the 
passport to us of all people in the world. The sus- 
picions entertained about this person, like some other 
facts, seem to prove only the extreme jealousy with 
which these people watch for the safety of their 
independence. We were moved here yesterday by 
an order from the council of the chiefs assembled at 
Pshat, upon their learning (not from us) that our 
entertainment at our last quarters (half an hour's 
ride from this) was not (in the opinion of the in- 
formants) sufficiently good. I believe it was in 
keeping with the host's circumstances. 

Hadji-oghlu Mehmet, the lively Abazak chief I 
spoke of, called on us yesterday, on his return from 
Pshat to his own province, whence he promises to 
bring shortly a force of his countrymen. We gave 
him some presents, to prove to them Englishmen 
were here in their country's cause. So far as we can 
learn, the Circassians have only a small corps of 
observation in front of the Russian army, and this 
perhaps is at present all that they can well do, as the 
army is in an open valley, where its cannon can be 
used with effect. But it appears that the impatience 
of the Circassian spirit occasionally seeks vent in 
some desperate effort. We were told yesterday 
evening by those who have returned from Pshat, 
that Tshumk-oku Tughuz and Jambolet (two of 
their five "mightiest men of valour") had by sur- 
prise broken in, sabre in hand, among a body of 500 
Russians ; and when their countrymen in despair 

VOL. I. L 



146 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



had given them up as slain, they returned without a 
wound, having made many of their adversaries "bite 
the dust." Yet I think I perceive a growing dis- 
position among some of the Circassians to wait and 
see what is going to be done for them by England 
and the other six powers — for here, as in Turkey, 
the powers of Christendom, like her champions of 
old, are always rated at seven ; and a report seems to 
have arrived, whence we know not, that other 
governments besides that of England have interfered 
in their favour. This dependence (caused chiefly by 
the communication from Sefir Bey) is to be deplored, 
and we have striven and will strive against its being 
entertained to a greater extent than as a source of 
encouragement ; yet its prevalence cannot be won- 
dered at here, where for ten years two provinces, 
inconsiderable in point of extent, have made a stand 
against the energies and wiles of the largest, most 
despotic, and least scrupulous empire of Europe, 
possessed too of all the modern military science of 
Europe. In another respect, also, the contest is 
most unequal ; inasmuch as it is the chiefs and 
prime portion of the population of these provinces 
who yearly go forth to battle and are yearly cut off, 
whereas Russia may send here for ten years more, and 
from among her "million of bayonets, 5 ' thousands on 
thousands of Poles whom she wishes diminished in 
number, or of her native slave soldiers, whom she 
values but as so many fighting machines. Nor has 
this country had as yet either time or opportunity to 
form a national system ; for the idea of such a thing 
did not exist till it was " called into existence " three 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



147 



years ago by " Daud Bey " during his chivalrous 
visit of three days ; and although it has been uni- 
versally and enthusiastically adopted, the pressure of 
the war has latterly been too severe to admit of any 
mechanism of government being contrived, or at least 
put into effective operation. It must also be borne 
in mind that only about fifty years have elapsed since 
intestine feuds and wars (like those of the clans of 
Ireland and Scotland) have been put an end to, and 
some of the law-suits, or compositions, consequent 
upon these discords have been protracted (as if they 
had been in the Chancery of England) down to a very 
recent period, Prince Pshemaff got payment not 
long since of 200 head of cattle, as liquidation of a 
fine for the homicide of his great-grandfather. The 
fraternities or societies I have spoken of seem to have 
greatly contributed of late in introducing the system 
now prevalent, of fines, instead of blood for blood. 
I have no doubt the dear-bought experience of the 
Circassians, both within and without, will speedily 
produce good fruit, if opportunity be given. 

This afternoon we have been called to a council 
upon one of two persons from the interior, caught in 
an attempt to communicate with the fortress of Anapa. 
Nine documents were found on the prisoner : three 
in Turkish and six in Russian. What their contents 
are I know not yet ; but I have gotten them into 
our custody till the chief judge and some other chiefs 
be assembled, and till some one be procured who can 
read Russian. Meantime the delinquents are kept 
in close custody. They are known to have been at 

L 2 



148 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



Ghelenjlk, on their way. Wind to-day from S.E. ; 
rainy and chill. 

We were informed, that this morning 300 Circas- 
sians—though almost all destitute of powder — ap- 
proached the fort of Nicolaefski, to challenge the 
garrison to come out, and fight ; but the latter de- 
clined doing so, and fired the cannons upon the 
challengers. 

This evening the Sultan (as he is called), Khur- 
ghun Gheri, entertained us with accounts of the 
wondrous feats of his father, who was " foremost in 
a thousand fights," without ever receiving a wound. 
His equestrian exploits were equally remarkable ; but 
they were finally fatal to him, as he died of a fall — 
not from, but — with his horse. The distance of time 
at which his deeds occurred seems, as usual, to have 
magnified them ; therefore I shall not tell the breadth 
of the river he was said to have leaped across, and the 
numbers he alone put to flight. His favourite wea- 
pons were his sabre and an iron mace (for cracking 
helmets) ; and, as others besides his son say he was 
a remarkably brave and powerful warrior, I was much 
gratified on being presented with his mace, which I 
accepted with the less compunction, that the valour 
also of the race seems to have perished when the 
horse fell. I have commenced a collection, which I 
purpose completing, of all the peculiar weapons of 
this extraordinary people, and which I shall do my 
best to get safely transported to England. 

Upper Pshat, Tuesday 13th. — On Sunday night, 
accompanied by the Sultan and others, we set out 
from Upper Abun for this place, which is within 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



149 



three hours' ride of the Russian camp at Pshat, and 
as it is a small retired glen, it appears to have been 
well chosen as a place of retreat for some goods 
brought under charge of Mr. L., by the last vessel to 
Pshat. The morning of our setting out was misty, 
(the weather had been misty and cold for a day or 
two previously,) and as the path chosen for us lay 
nearly over the summit of one of the highest hills in 
the neighbourhood, we saw for some time, amid the 
clouds that enveloped us, nothing of this nether 
world, but the narrow ridge we travelled along. On 
beginning to descend, however, we got from beneath 
the cloud that " kerchiefed" the mountain-top, and 
a magnificent view of mountain wood and ocean 
opened beneath us. But perhaps I have already 
dwelt at sufficient length on the features of this 
part of the country. 

We halted at the first valley we came to, for 
prayers, and a hot lunch. There, for the first time, 
I was shown the plant from which they make a sub- 
stitute for nitre. It is cultivated for that purpose 
in the garden of the hamlet. Here, also, we found a 
large mortar for making gunpowder, the pestle of 
which was worked by the foot, having a long pliant 
branch of a tree as a spring. 

In passing the valley of the Sutslmk, and the de- 
file at the end of it, we saw abundant traces of the 
march of the Russians, in sheds made of branches of 
trees, erections for camp-kettles, and pathways for 
the artillery, made by their pioneers. They appeared 
to have slept at one place in order of battle ; and 
they have certainly done some temporary good in 



150 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



improving the road through the defile. This march 
is said to have cost them 500 men, though very few 
Circassians were assembled upon its track, and the 
neighbouring country is not very populous. 

On Sunday evening it was found we could not 
reach this place ; and a debate was in progress upon 
the possibility of our doing without food till next 
morning, and upon the eligibility of choosing before 
sunset soft sleeping ground at the base of the adjoin- 
ing hills, when our Turkish servant (a merchant from 
Semez, who had come with me, and has been hired 
by us) bethought himself of a hamlet, where he had 
friends, in a glen not far off. He took us there ; and 
we had good quarters, and still better entertainment. 
The garden of this hamlet was in excellent order ; 
and their hemp the best among the many good crops 
I have seen. 

Mr. L.'s errand to the hamlet we are now at was 
to look into the conduct of a hadji from Constan- 
tinople, to whom he had intrusted the disposal of 
some goods shipped by a friend of his at Constan- 
tinople, as an experiment : mine was to get exercise, 
and a sight of the Russian camp. On our way here 
yesterday morning, we found Haud-oku Mensur, 
old Kehri-ku Shamuz, and some other chiefs from 
the north, assembled under a tree, in a field, about 
an hour's ride from Pshat, where they have stationed 
themselves for some days, watching the enemy, and 
sleeping at night with no other shelter than we found 
them under. 

Here, immediately on our arrival, a council was 
held, and the first subject discussed was that of the 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



151 



suspected persons ; and, since information had arrived 
from the chief judge that the letters found upon them 
were of a traitorous purport, as they related to intelli- 
gence found to have been carried on between an Aba- 
zak princess, who had fallen into the hands of the 
Russians, and become the wife of one of their gene- 
rals, and some persons in her native neighbourhood who 
had listened to her corrupt counsel, it was decided that 
the prisoners deserved to be shot forthwith. Some 
of those present were therefore deputed to go north- 
ward to see the affair brought to an issue. The next 
subject discussed was the conduct of the hadji, which 
was found to be so equivocal that Mr. L. expressed his 
wish to have the property from Constantinople taken 
out of his hands, and placed in those of some one 
trustworthy. Hussein, a merchant of Semez, who had 
come with us, was pointed out as a fit person ; and, 
as the chiefs said they would be responsible for his 
honesty, and felt glad at being thus enabled to pre- 
vent the disgrace of the property of strangers being 
tampered with in their part of the country, (a cir- 
cumstance, they said, which never occurred before,) 
the transference was agreed on accordingly. We were 
then asked where we wished to go, and upon our 
replying that it was Mr. L.'swish to take part in the 
warfare here, and mine to proceed to the interior, 
where I thought my services might be most beneficial, 
we were informed that Mr. L.'s remaining in this 
neighbourhood at present would not be advisable, as 
it had been determined that no large operation should 
be undertaken against the Russians at present, and 
only a watch kept upon their proceedings. In regard 



152 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



to my proposal, the chiefs observed, that as they had 
arranged to proceed shortly to the interior, to hold a 
congress with the Abazaks, for the purpose of pro- 
ducing combined operations on a large scale against 
the time when the Russian army might be expected 
again to move, it would be best that we two should 
also go to that congress, to assist in rousing and en- 
couraging the people as much as possible. This, then, 
was finally agreed on, and that we should, when our 
affairs here were finished, return to Semez, and remain 
at the house of Shamuz, till the chiefs were ready to 
start with us on the projected journey. 

During this discussion two striking incidents oc- 
curred. We saw a litter, borne by four men and 
attended by many others, approaching towards us up 
the valley below. On learning that it contained a 
man who had been wounded that morning by a 
foraging party of the Russians, we went to meet it, 
and found a youth lying on his back apparently 
senseless with a frightful laceration of the groin by 
a cannon-shot. I had nothing with me but some 
adhesive plaister I had brought for them, and which 
I offered for dressing ; but it was thought unneces- 
sary, and those around seemed to make up their 
minds that it was all over with the sufferer. This is 
the first victim of war I have seen here, but I fear 
it will not be the last. 

The other incident was the arrival at our place of 
debate of old Indar-oku Mehmet, on a young and 
lively horse, from which he dismounted so actively, 
and advanced towards us with so light a step (his 
waist tightly girt, and all his arms on), that, for 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



153 



some time, all that 1 recognised was the likeness of 
his features to those of my centenarian friend, not 
believing it could possibly be himself. The chiefs 
all rose (as usual) on his approach ; but the elders 
among them retired to another spot, to finish what 
they were then talking of (the affair of the traitors), 
and their reception of him, on the whole, convinced 
us that the distrust of this chief and his family, on 
account of their former dealings with Messrs. Scassi 
and De Marigny, is a strong and very general feel- 
ing. Scassi I am told attempted lately to correspond 
with the family, in favour of submission to Russia ; 
but I have not heard of one single established fact to 
its discredit. Its reputation seems sacrificed by sur- 
mises or the falsehoods of former enemies. 

Several of the chiefs attended us here yesterday, 
and the entertainment being at our expense (as 
the people are somewhat poor) and prepared by 
our servants, we acted the part of Circassian hosts 
by retiring to another house while our visiters 
ate. 

Mensur having said that several of those present 
had not powder to go against the Russians, I gave 
half of the little I happened to have with me to be 
divided among them, and he was instantly beset by a 
swarm of requisitionists. Apropos of swarms : I 
chanced to see a swarm of bees forming around a hive; 
and on approaching it, discovered the bee-yard, a 
large oval space securely hurdled around, and con- 
taining no less than sixty-seven hives, all tenanted ; 
while many more are being prepared for new swarms. 
These hives are of wicker-work, covered with clay 



154 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



hardened in the sun. I am told the honey is taken 
without the destruction of the bees. 

The chiefs from the north have left us (all but a 
few of the most influential who form our escort) to 
prepare for the journey to the interior. 

This morning we rode down to Pshat to see the 
Russian camp. The day was almost broilingly hot, 
and as the only road for about nine-tenths of the way 
lay over the broad channel of the Pshat composed of 
glaringly white stones, the sight of the enemy seemed 
dearly enough bought. We went for this purpose 
to the usual guard station of the Circassians, an emi- 
nence right in point of the camp and considerably 
within cannon range. An ancient tomb, such as 
several others to be seen in this part of the country, 
composed of five enormous slabs of stone, four upright 
and one laid upon them, formed here a partial shelter 
for us and a resting-place for our telescope*. We 
did not use it much for the former purpose lest our 
national character might have suffered, and while 
perhaps we were taking some little credit to ourselves 
for something like courage, what was my surprise to 
discover a single Circassian more than half way in 
advance of us, and approaching the camp still nearer! 
He continued doing so till it seemed to me he was 
within musket range of it, when he turned his horse 
to one side, and leisurely walked him right across the 
front of a plateau where I had counted seven pieces 

* These tombs are about five feet high, and the covering- stone is 
about nine feet long and six broad. In the front slab is a circular aper- 
ture sufficiently large for the admission of a child's head. Tradition is 
silent as to their origin. 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



155 



of artillery.' This was Tshuruk-oku Tughuz, mounted 
on his beautiful little white charger. I have spoken 
of an exploit he and Jambolet performed upon the 
Russians. He is a remarkably strong-made, tall 
man, full of life, fun, and activity ; and as he slowly 
paced along, so distinct an object in the midst of an 
open field, I thought of our Coeur-de-Lion challeng- 
ing the Saracens, yet I wished the scene at an end, 
for the interest it excited was too painful, especially 
as Tughuz (" the wolf") and I had become very good 
friends. 

During his survey of the camp he was joined by 
another Circassian (also on a white horse), and 1 was 
well pleased to see them, before I left the hill, return- 
ing from their exploit without having been made to 
pay dearly for its hardihood. The Russians seemed 
to be at dinner (in order of battle) at the time, 
which possibly was the cause of the two reconnoi- 
terers not being fired upon. In the anchorage 
were a frigate, three brigs, and a lugger, and boats 
appeared to be busily employed between them and 
the beach. It is said that the fort they are about to 
erect is to be on the declivity of the hill to the west, 
so as to prevent the approach of vessels to the mouth 
of the river. Though this is not my country, I felt a 
pang (what then must old Indar-oku have felt ?) on 
perceiving that the sacred forest, near the beach, 
where the cross stood, had all been cut down by the 
barbarians, save two or three venerable trees, whose 
days also may now be numbered. 



LETTER VII. 



RESIDENCE AT SEMEZ. 

Zenu, Friday, 16 th. 

My dear . We arrived in this lovely, rich, 
and little valley yesterday evening, and were to have 
set out this morning for Semez, but some of our 
horses had otherwise determined. Here there is no 
fear of theft, therefore they were left to graze all 
night un watched and unstrapped about the legs, as 
the inclosure they were in was thought sufficient. It 
did not prove so however, and two of the best horses 
— those of Mr. L. and of Tshuruk, were this morn- 
ing missing. This created some alarm, but it was 
soon allayed by Tshuruk's horse being found, and by 
a person arriving who reported that he had seen 
the other on a mountain, about five miles off, 
grazing with a herd of other horses. It was brought 
back this evening, and the man who brought it says* 
that all the people were up and active in assisting to 
recover the property of the Englishman ! 

Here is a Russian prisoner, a sharp-looking person, 
said to be an excellent artisan. He appears to be 
quite unconstrained, although said to have frequently 
attempted escape ; but the difference of mental 
culture in him and the Circassians is very apparent, 
as their free address has degenerated in him into a 
familiarity which he will find very inconvenient if 
ever he return into his native slavery. 



RESIDENCE IN C1RCASSIA. 



157 



This valley (or rather glen) is not a couple of 
miles long, but its herbage, in depth and richness, 
equals any I have seen — a beetling cliff of white rocks, 
in small strata, closes it in towards the north. At 
about its centre, our host (atalik of one of the sons of 
Indar-oku, who had sent word that everything we 
wanted should be supplied,) showed us a mound on 
which a large tree had grown, and which he said had 
been the site of a Christian church, and that there 
was a cross on some of the stones. These stones, 
however, were so deeply enveloped in rank herbage 
that nothing was to be seen, but here and there the 
corner of one showing they had been wrought. 

On our way yesterday we called on the Pshat 
family, at the place of residence they have been 
driven to by the Russian invasion of their valley. It 
is situated in the midst of an oak forest between two 
hills formed by the streams Tabeh and Sumez (which 
when joined are called Pshat) into a sort of peninsula. 
We were piloted by Tshuruk, son-in-law of Indar- 
oku, and having arrived in a grassy paddock were 
desired to wait there. Presently the old chieftain, 
his sons, and many attendants came forth from a 
thicket. Many apologies were made for receiving 
us in the open air, but it could not be otherwise, as 
they had not yet gotten any houses made, and they 
and their ladies and families were camped out for the 
present. Mats and cushions were brought and 
spread on the grass, and shortly after a hot lunch was 
served to us. During this time we had a good deal 
of conversation, chiefly with Nogha'i, the eldest son, 
who is said to be sixty-five ; but his animation, 



158 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



athletic form, and carriage, give him all the appear- 
ance of one fifteen years younger. 

He spoke with much spirit of the unjust suspicions 
they were subjected to, because they had once traded 
with Russia. He said they are living at present as 
it were under the edge of the sabre, although they 
had always borne their share in the war; and that their 
father also had, of late, repeatedly wished to go to 
battle, but had been prevented by them, on account 
of his age. He expressed the great satisfaction he 
had felt on learning that the chiefs had interfered 
for the protection of the goods of English merchants, 
which precedent he said might be the means of in- 
troducing, in other respects, more regularity into the 
affairs of commerce ; and some such regulation he 
said was the more requisite, as the connexion which 
formerly existed between the chiefs and their depend- 
ants, and which had enabled the former to exercise 
some degree of control, had during the last war 
become in a great measure dissolved, so that the latter 
now moved where they pleased, without consulting 
their superiors. In this way he said the family of 
Prince Pshemaff (who sat by) had of late lost up- 
wards of a thousand retainers. We have promised 
to require, at the approaching congress, that justice 
should be done this family ; and we purpose caution- 
ing the people generally against that error of being 
too credulous as to treachery, which did such mis- 
chief to the Poles during their late struggle for inde- 
pendence. Indar-oku was very grateful for our 
promise, and said, among other like expressions, 
" After God, you English !" 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



159 



As Noghai seems to think that an incident con- 
nected with the merchandise under Mr. L 's 

charge may be cobbled into a ludicrous story by the 
Russians, if they come to hear of it, I believe I had 
better give you the facts of the case, that you may 
be prepared. The Hadji, being well acquainted with 
the trade of this country, was employed by the mer- 
chant at Constantinople to buy the goods, and for 
the same reason, the disposal of them here was left to 
him by Mr. L- . Among other proofs, how- 
ever, which he soon gave of his bad intentions (his 
character here was previously suspected) was that of 
purchasing with part of the goods two slaves, a girl 
and a lad — contrary to express orders. By the laws 
of the Turks, no Christian can claim interest in 
Mussulman slaves, and the project of the Hadji 
seems to have been (other circumstances confirming 
this suspicion) to get the whole proceeds of the 
adventure appropriated to himself. When the reso- 
lution to take it out of his hands was communicated 
to him, he first begged humbly to be continued in 
charge ; and then he seemed to be inspired with 
revenge. Yet his features (and he is the most beau- 
tiful old man, I think, I ever saw) were all the time 
dressed in smiles, and his behaviour affable, and 
apparently frank and open. Just as we were prepar- 
ing to go and see the Russians, he entered, saying he 
heard they were advancing upon us, hoping, perhaps, 
to occasion a moving of the goods, or some confusion, 
by which he might profit ; but he only frightened the 
Sultan home, and quickened our departure by excit- 
ing our desire to learn if the report were true. His 



160 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



next move, however, (there appears scarce a doubt 
of its having been his) was more effectual. That 

evening I was alone in the guest-house, (Mr. L ■ 

having preferred sleeping at fresco?) when Georgi, his 
Greek servant, rushed into it, snatched his pistols 
and sabre from the wall, and girded them on in such 
haste and excitement, that I had scarce a doubt the 
Russians were at hand. All, however, I could learn 
from him, in his bad Italian-French, was something 
about 46 famina ;" and curiosity succeeding to fear, I 
sallied out for further explanation, and found the 
Hadji, the merchant Hussein, the women (in their 
night-shifts), &c. &c, all in violent excitement and 
altercation about the female slave, who had just 
escaped to the hills. A son of our host was also 
absent, and the real question seemed to be, whether 
the escape was to be looked on as a simple love affair, 
resulting from the intercourse of these two young 
people during the past fortnight, — or, as a conse- 
quence of fears inspired into the girl's mind, it was 
generally supposed by the Hadji, of falling into the 
hands of the " Ghiaours." She had previously been 
eager to go to Stambul, as the girls of the country 
generally are ; and even if retained for the purpose 
of being sent there, she must at all events have gone 
under charge of a Mussulman. Tshuruk was furious 
against the wily Hadji : he seized him twice by the 
beard ; and, drawing his two-edged dirk, threatened 
to cut his head off, unless he told what had become of 
he girl. But these threats were of no more avail in 
leading to her capture, than was the rambling of 
Tshuruk and Georgi, through the woods, for the 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



161 



greater part of the night. Next morning, our host, 
in great anxiety to escape from the disgrace of the 
goods of strangers having been tampered with under 
his roof, offered, that if his son had been to blame 
in carrying off the girl for the purpose of marrying 
her, he would give one of his daughters in her place ! 
Or, if he had been guilty of a greater impropriety, 
he would immediately pay the usual fine for him ; 
viz., 600 piasters in value. The girl has since been 
got back (how I know not) : she was no virgin before 
her purchase ; and it has been determined to return 
her to her family, and make them repay the purchase 
money. This affair is of importance, chiefly as it 
has elicited the exhibition of a general interest that 
the community should not be disgraced in the eyes 
of strangers by any violation of their property. . 

Semez, Wednesday, %lst. — I returned to these 
my former quarters on Monday last, and Mr. L. came 
with me to remain here till the chiefs be ready to go 
with us to the projected congress with those of 
Abazak, all larger operations against the Russians 
being to be deferred till this combined effort can be 
matured. Our host, Kehri-ku Shamuz, is absent ; 
and, I have no doubt, busy about state affairs ; but 
his lady supplies all our wants abundantly ; yet, like 
one's guardian angel, or a spring in the heart of a 
mountain, the source of our benefits is invisible. I 
have not, to my knowledge, seen the skirt of her gar- 
ment. Such privacy is generally observed by the wives 
of chiefs, who, like Shamuz, have been much in 
Turkey, excepting as regards members of the same 
fraternity. 

VOL. I. M 



162 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



I need not describe particularly our journey here, 
as I have gone over nearly the same ground before. 
On this occasion, however, not being in much haste, 
and having light baggage, we made use of the local 
knowledge of Hatukwoi, chief of Ghelenjik, to ap- 
proach the two forts on our route more nearly than 
I did previously, and to examine a pass which lies 
near the commencement of the line of march the 
Russians lately pursued ; as it is probable they may 
attempt to return the same way, and we wished to 
see if means could be taken to make that somewhat 
difficult for them. 

This pass lies at the head of the small valley of 
Mezip, immediately to the east of Ghelenjik ; and 
through it the Sutshuk seeks the sea. If the 
Russians had confined themselves to the pass, their 
advance might have been rendered very difficult*; but 
this we found they had foreseen, and consequently 
commenced operations by bringing an auxiliary force 
from Ghelenjik, and covering the neighbouring hills 
with clouds of tirailleurs, a mode of fighting the 
Circassians hereabouts, from want of use, are not yet 
sufficiently acquainted with; their ideas, like those of 
the Persians of old, being chiefly confined to charging 
on horseback on level ground. In this, perhaps, they 
are unrivalled. We have often lectured them upon 
the expediency of meeting the Russian warfare among 
the hills, by bush-fighting ; of avoiding pitched 
battles on the plains (as the chief cause of slaughter 



* The Circassians had prepared, immediately in front of the opening 
of the pass, a very strong breast-work. 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



163 



among them), and of rendering the defiles still stronger 
by artificial defences. I doubt much, however, if any- 
thing effectual in these respects will be done during 
the present campaign; and I hope in Heaven it is the 
last England will permit ! 

As Mr. L. had never seen Ghelenjik, and we were 
desirous of knowing the nature of its fortification, 
we begged the chiefs to find us quarters for the night 
in the neighbourhood. This, after some little diffi- 
culty (on account of suitable accommodation), they 
succeeded in effecting, at the hamlet of a very mild, 
friendly old man, on the north-eastern side of the hills 
of Ghelenjik. But his guest-house was not finished, 
nor his furniture all brought to these his new quar- 
ters, (newly moved to a hill with an enemy's fortress 
on the other side !) and we had to content ourselves 
with things as they were ; viz., a log house, of which 
the interstices were not yet clayed up, and newly- 
shorn grass for mattresses. But our tables were 
numerous, and excellently furnished. We went over 
the ridge of hills to within three miles of the fort, 
and found it more regularly fortified (towards the 
land only) than I had been led to expect from what 
I seen from the bay. The ramparts are but earthen, 
yet their angles are sufficiently numerous to make an 
approach of the cannonless Circassians very difficult 
in daylight Within range of the guns there was a 
large herd of cattle feeding, and some haycocks to be 
seen ; upon both of which we perceived, from what 
passed while we were there, that the Circassians were 
forming designs. Some 200, 1 hear, have assembled 
for this purpose. 

M 2 



164 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



On Monday morning we again ascended the hills 
and rode along their summits (the rich pasture of 
which I had again to admire), for the purpose of see- 
ing the fort called Doha (or Alexandrinsky), placed 
opposite the entrance of the Bay of Semez (Sujuk 
Kaleh), but not so as to command it and prevent 
ships entering. It is small and earthen-walled; but 
sufficiently angled to make its capture also a perilous 
undertaking for the Circassians. They are not 
without cannons I ought to have observed, for we 
are told that they have taken about a dozen pieces ; 
but they have not enough of powder to spare for them. 

Yesterday we went with the other male indwellers 
of this hamlet to a funeral on the road towards 
Anapa ; but all the portion of the ceremony we wit- 
nessed and partook in, was the consumption of a great 
quantity of victuals by some dozen parties, seated 
on the grass under the trees of a small hill. The 
largest party was composed of females, whose heads 
and shoulders (as among the Turks) were clothed 
in white veils ; but they were placed at too respectful 
a distance from us for our seeing them, or their acts, 
particularly. During the feast, two or three men 
rode about to see that the guests were all properly 
served. Among our tables # was an excellent saddle 
of mutton, a portion always assigned by the Circas- 
sians to those whom they " delight to honour." The 
sheep seem generally of the flat-tailed species, which 
large excrescence of fat is exceedingly delicate. Guests 
are not invited to these funeral feasts, but the day 

* The Circassian table is equivalent to our dish, each little table (or 
footed tray) being removed so soon as the provision on it is discussed. 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



165 



having been notified, all the neighbours (and even 
passing strangers) go, on an understanding that, in 
return for their entertainment, they pray for the soul 
of the deceased. I trust they did not expect that of 
us. Horse-racing and mark-firing form generally a 
part of the ceremony or a result of the assemblage, 
especially at the funeral of a chief. Instead, how- 
ever, of waiting for such recreation, we took a ride 
towards Anapa. We had not time to go further 
than to within ten miles of it, where from the top of 
a hill we had a fine view, and could form a tolera- 
bly good judgment of the localities ; but the fortress 
itself was hidden from us by a small intervening hill. 
I was somewhat disappointed to find that no very 
defensible country intervenes between the valley of 
Anapa and the valley of Semez. The hills on the 
east side of the latter extend, yet in decreasing alti- 
tude, to the vale of Anapa ; and on the west the 
whole space towards the sea is covered with hills, 
some of them sufficiently high and well wooded to 
render them very difficult, but they also decrease in 
height till they terminate before Anapa. Between 
these two ranges of hills extends a cluster of lower 
elevation, and comparatively of easy access, forming 
but a feeble barrier; and I cannot but wonder, 
that during this ten years' war, and with the 
advantages possessed in science and means by the 
Russians, they should not have succeeded in possess- 
ing themselves of all the country comprised between 
the line from Anapa to Ghelenjik and the sea. It 
appears scarcely the work of one campaign, and that 
it has not yet been effected speaks volumes for the 



166 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



determined resistance of the Circassians—the desire 
at all events, and repeated attempts, not having^been 
wanting on the side of the Russians ; but some may 
think, and perhaps justly, that this failure renders 
their abundance of means very questionable. 

From the height we visited, Prince Pshemaff, who 
accompanied us, pointed out the sacred spot (as they 
justly esteem it) where Daud Bey had held (just 
three years ago) his meeting with the chieftains of 
this neighbourhood, and first inspired them with the 
idea of combining themselves with the other inhabit- 
ants of the mountain-provinces as a nation, under 
one government and one standard. 

Wednesday 28tk. — The last ten days I have 
used partly in transcribing this long despatch*. Our 
host has been twice absent, having gone on business 
towards the Kuban. Mr. L. has also been busy writing 
to England ; and this necessary labour (for labour in 
this warm weather it is to me, at least,) having been 
now nearly accomplished, we have determined, in the 
course of two or three days (if some other necessary 
affairs be by that time arranged) to press for the 
assemblage of all who have promised to accompany 
us to Abazak, and to set out for the purpose of 
holding the congress there. Some individuals (our 
host among the rest) seem opposed to our making this 
journey, while others are decidedly in favour of it > 
but unless the former adduce better reasons than they 
have yet given for their opinion, we shall set them aside. 

But writing has not been our only occupation, as we 



* Letters VI. and VII. were sent under a cover to England. 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



167 



have frequently had visiters, with whom long con- 
versations have always to be held. Among the first 
was the judge of Shapsuk, who brought word that 
the people of Jubghe and Tshopsin had assembled 
near Pshat, and attacked a body of Russian foragers, 
whom they had forced to retreat (cannons and all) 
to the camp, without having accomplished their 
object. On Sunday last, we were informed that a 
Russian force had disembarked from two war-ships 
and a steamer at Toapse, for the purpose of burning 
two Turkish vessels. They reached the vessels, when 
a few Circassians, who were on the spot, attacked 
them with such fury, that they forced the soldiers to 
fly to their boats, without having fired the vessels, 
and even leaving behind them, in their haste, one of 
the cannons they had brought on shore. Many of 
the Circassians were killed by the cannon firing from 
the ships ; but they soon assembled so imposing a 
force on the shore that the Russians set sail without 
making any further attempts. In this affair, it is 
said, the latter lost 200 men (partly by the firing of 
their own ships J. 

Two men from Sutsha have brought us more im- 
portant intelligence, viz., that a large Russian squad- 
ron (of more than thirty vessels, it is said,) had ap- 
peared off Vardan and Khissa ; that the wind becom- 
ing unfavourable for debarking there, they sailed 
towards Ardler, and landed a very considerable force ; 
but while it was still in disorder on the beach, fifty-five 
Circassians (chiefly the nobles and proprietors of the 
estates of the immediate neighbourhood) rushed with 
their sabres amid the Moskovs (as they are always 



168 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



called here), and committed such havoc that the ships 
in the offing commenced firing upon foes and friends 
indiscriminately, by which means forty of the Cir- 
cassians were slain, and among them, I am sorry to 
learn, Beislam Bey, of Ardler, (a chief of whom I 
have generally heard spoken with much respect,) and 
his two brothers. 

These men also state, that the Russian army from 
Sukum-kaleb has not been able to make their way 
beyond Gaghra ; that the whole coast to the north- 
ward of that point had been strongly fortified in the 
manner I have formerly described ; that about 10,000 
Circassians, partly from the mountains inland, had 
assembled, and had agreed to remain on the coast, at 
the request of the inhabitants of that part of it, and 
on their promise to furnish them with provisions ; 
that the Georgians and the Azras in the neighbour- 
hood of Sukum-kaleh (who form a large portion of 
the army from that fortress) had sent word secretly to 
the Circassians, that they had been compelled against 
their will (and upon a representation that they would 
not be required to fight) to join the expedition, for 
the purpose, as had been said to them, of giving it 
an imposing appearance ; and that if they were forced 
to advance against the Circassians, they would fire 
in the air ! 

Indar-oku has sent to inquire if he can have a 
place assigned him hereabouts for the establish- 
ment of his family, as he wishes to remove it from 
the neighbourhood of the Russians. This is certainly 
a wise measure, and I trust it will tend to restore 
this chief to the confidence of his countrymen. 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



169 



We experienced great mortification at Aduwhau, 
on our way hither, in learning that a neighbour of 
our host there lately had found, while ploughing, a 
vase, and within it some coins and a book in a copper 
case. On inquiring what had become of them, we 
found they had all been lost, excepting three pieces 
of the copper case, which I got in exchange for a 
razor (to show we wish to buy such things). They 
have some ancient Arabic characters on them, and 
the book was said not to be in Turkish. We have 
bought the few coins we have yet met with, and have 
spread, as widely as we could, the knowledge of our 
wish to have more. 

It would appear that we might, if we chose, pass with 
many good people here for faithful Mussulmans. A 
lad was sent the other day to request us to write some 
verse of the Koran for his sister, who was ill, to have 
put in water for her to drink and get cured. I 
offered some medicine instead, but the lad refused it, 
as not being what he had been sent for. This error 
as to our faith may arise from their knowledge of 
friendship having long existed between the English 
and the Turks ; for the general bonds of union in 
the East are religious, not political. 

This day week we were left almost totally alone, 
as our host was absent, and the Prince PshemafF, who 
lives here, and all the other males went, by our per- 
mission, to a marriage at some little distance. The 
rank of the parties was not deemed sufficient for our 
accepting an invitation to be present ; but we sent a 
representative in my faithful Georgian, Luca, who 
bore a small present for the bride ; which present, 



170 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



however, he diverted from its destination, by bestow- 
ing it on a more beauteous damsel, who expressed 
attachment for him. Their amusements were songs, 
dancing (males and females), horse-racing, mark-firing, 
and cudgel-playing. He says he made his conquest 
through his address and valour in the latter sports, 
while I insist that it was owing to the silver cartouche 
chains, brass scabbarded sword, and English double- 
barrelled pistol which I lent him for the occasion ; 
to which he replies, that the damsels here universally 
prefer valour to wealth, of which he has heard and 
seen numerous proofs, and that the songs they listened 
to with most delight were those about valour. Be 
that as it may, the father of the young damsel came 
here last Saturday, to take Luca (who, by the way, 
is somewhat handsome) to his house to see his 
daughter. They dined together, no one else being 
at the same table, and she again expressed her devo- 
tion to him, and her willingness to accompany him 
to Constantinople. He returned here quite in ecs- 
tacies at the conquest he had made, and at having 
discovered here so much greater freedom of manners 
than exists among the Turks, among whom most of 
his life for six years past has been spent. 

A man in this neighbourhood has twice brought 
us a dish of white mulberries, which I was delighted 
to see, as another future source of wealth for this 
country in the breeding of silk-worms ; for the white 
mulberry is thus shown to be a native of the country, 
and many of the hill-tracts on the coast could not be 
more profitably occupied than in its culture. I have 
been to see the tree, which is a very large one, and 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



171 



have given directions about sowing the seed, by means 
of a wisp of straw, on which the ripe mulberries are 
rubbed. In this part of the country there are but 
few of these trees, and no silk-worms. At Pshat, 
Toapse, and elsewhere to the southward, however, 
silk has already been produced. To-day a large can 
of small wild strawberries was brought us, the flavour 
of which was exquisite. 

Our numerous visiters and attendants make such 
a constant drain of provisions here, that we have 
ventured to order some sheep to be bought on our 
own account, and have been pleased at two of these 
visiters (a valiant khan and the judge of Adughum) 
having set an example in bringing with them a lamb 
each for the general entertainment. 

Plague formerly, and war of late, have evidently 
depeopled and impoverished these provinces very con- 
siderably. By the former our host, Shamuz, lost in 
a short time forty-five of his dependants. That 
scourge is stayed, as I have previously shown, and it 
is well that it was so before the other attained its 
actual climax, which seems to threaten famine here, 
if continued for another season. 

The temperature at noon has frequently of late 
been 80° of Fahr. (in the shade, with a northern 
exposure). It ranges from 10 to 12 degrees lower 
during the night. 

Our host's two young sons returned to-day from 
the north. The eldest had been with 150 other indi- 
viduals on a foray into the Russian territory, where 
they captured twenty-eight horses and two oxen, 
and returned without any of the party having been 



172 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



wounded, as they found the forts, from whose environs 
these animals were taken, almost destitute of soldiers. 
This discovery has begot the idea of operations on a 
large scale against the forts themselves. 

Shamuz's son (or rather nephew, adopted as a son 
on the death of his brother), who was killed in the 
last campaign, in his fifteenth year, had twelve 
wounds, received in different engagements ! 

Mehemet Effendi said jokingly a few days ago, 
that if ever they yielded to Russia, they (the Cir- 
cassians) would offer her 40,000 cavalry to ravage 
Turkey, in revenge for the treatment they have 
experienced from her, — Selim, Prince of Janat (a 
major in the Turkish cavalry) has just indulged in 
a similar jest. Feelings more deeply rooted than 
jests generally are, sometimes seek vent in them. 
This Bey told Mr. L. he may marry his sister if he 
pleases, as he has no prejudices. Judging by the 
brother's features, she should be beautiful. 

Thursday the 29th, — Since writing the above, we 
have been informed that a congress has already been 
held in the northern part of Abazak, and that the 
parties assembled there have taken an oath upon the 
Koran to stand by, and co-operate with, the people of 
these provinces in the war against the Russians. For 
what reason our presence at this congress was pre- 
vented, we have yet to discover. Perhaps it was the 
fear of our friends here to lose possession of us — the 
insignia of their authority. 

The foray I expected upon the cattle of the garri- 
son of Ghelenjik has been successfully executed. 
Twenty-six head were brought off, and many others 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



173 



killed. There has been more fighting in the south ; 
but particulars have not yet arrived. The three 
brothers-in-law of our host have just fallen in one 
engagement ! The communication of this intelli- 
gence to our hostess (a woman of very strong feel- 
ings) produced a clamour of grief which was most 
distressing. 

A reinforcement of troops has arrived at Yeka- 
terinodar; probably to make up garrisons for the 
forts, I have spoken of above, as left defenceless. 
Yet this arrival of troops, added to the circumstances 
of another fort having been lately established on the 
Kuban towards Anapa, and to the expectation of the 
army at Pshat being about to set out on some other 
undertaking, whenever it has constructed a fort there, 
makes the chiefs hereabouts much at a loss from 
what quarter to expect the next attack. And this 
probably is the cause of the delay, (which has an- 
noyed us,) in their execution of some measures recom- 
mended by us, about the expediency of which they 
appeared convinced. Among these measures is that 
of keeping a small army constantly in the field, to 
harass the Russian foragers, and to watch the fa- 
vourable moments of attack, if the Russians should 
move from their present position before the projected 
" gathering " of the Circassians can be effected. The 
difficulty of mustering and transporting a sufficient 
quantity of provisions is the chief obstacle to the 
assemblage and permanent embodying of a large force. 

The Circassians generally profess as much deter- 
mination as ever to resist, and to perish along with 
their families, sooner than be forced to make a dis- 



174 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



honourable peace with Russia; yet the efforts for 
their subjugation she continues to make evidently 
perplex them. We have expressed to them our be- 
lief, that it is the fear of England's interference that 
has driven Russia to her present desperate expedients ; 
and the more we review these, the stronger becomes 
our conviction that this supposition is well founded. 
I trust her fears are equally so. What but such 
fear could have induced Russia to precipitate, so in- 
judiciously, her requisition of recruits from the Ku- 
ban Circassians to the eastward, the Kabardans and 
the Nogha'is ; and to have incurred the danger she 
is now placed in from their having been refused? 
What but such fear could have induced her to com- 
pose the half of her invading army in the south of 
Georgians, who so lately attempted to throw off her 
yoke, and of the Azras, upon whose necks it is not 
yet fitted ? 

But I must bring this long rambling letter to a 
close, and I think I cannot better compensate for 
any tedium you may find in it, than by transcribing 
the translation I made yesterday from the recitation 
of a Circassian song, which seemed to me to have 

some highly poetical ideas in it. Mr. L also 

made a translation, which you may perhaps see here- 
after, and you can then exercise your critical powers 
in their comparison. After the recitation, in the 
translation of which the Prince of Janat, who is 
brother of the deceased hero, assisted, it was sung 
over to give us an idea of the music it is set to. The 
air is exceedingly plaintive, and the prince, while 
joining in the accompaniment, leant down his head 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



175 



and shed tears. It should be explained that the 
hero of the song was called " the last of his race," 
because Selim had been then so long absent (in 
Turkey) without being heard of, that it was doubted 
if he were alive. 

The Eulogy of Prince Pshugui. 
" Before the years of his puberty had arrived his 
courage was matured. He died, not in defence of 
his native village, but to display his bravery. He 
heard the music of the red-haired Muscovite chief- 
tain, and wielding his sabre to its sounds, he rushed 
into the midst of the enemy. He was the last of his 
race, and its heritage has passed into the hands of 
others. His sister's hair was dark and glossy like 
the black silk of Leipzig ; but, in her grief she has 
torn it from her head, because the chief of her house 
had fallen. He rushed against the steed of the red- 
haired chief ; the general escaped, but Pshugui bore 
off his charger, of the valued race of Tram, and its 
housings. In the morning he left his home about 
an affair of peace, and in the evening he was carried 
back in his grave-clothes. 4 God be thanked,' cried 
his mother, 6 that thou hast fallen in the field of 
honour, and not in the pursuit of plunder.' Twice 
in the battle he changed his steeds, but his heart was 
unchanged, and thus Pshugui fell. When the women 
of the village for whose safety he had fought, saw 
him stretched lifeless before them, they tore their 
raiment and cried, 6 We have lost the prince, our 
deliverer !' His sabre had saved them from captivity. 
The soul of Pshugui is fled, but his body and arms 



176 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



have been saved from the hands of the enemy. 
When he uncovered his deadly rifle, the rapid shots 
filled the Muscovites with fear, as numerously they 
fell beneath them. The sun shone full on his crim- 
son garments ; and, like the sun, he became conspi- 
cuous in the midst of the field. His black horse 
swept through the fight, swift as a hawk, while blood 
from the sabre of Pshugui dyed his sleeve. With 
his last breath he said, 'Take my faithful steed to 
my beloved, the daughter of my host ; in seeing it 
she will think she again sees her Pshugui.' His 
friends shed tears of water, but his sister tears of 
blood. Youth has fallen a martyr in the midst of 
war ! " 



LETTER VIII. 



RESIDENCE AT SEMEZ CONTINUED.— GLIMPSE INTO 
THE STRUCTURE OF CIRCASSIAN SOCIETY. 

Semez, near Sujuk-kaleH) 1st July, 1837. 

My dear -. Hadji Ismael, the Judge of 

Adughum, staid here a couple of days, and a good 
deal of interesting conversation passed with him ; for 
his mind, though not profound, is active and inquir- 
ing. According to his account* \ it is only about 
sixty years since anything like general religious 
observances and social order were introduced in this 
country. Previous to that time, intestine feuds and 
wars raged generally and incessantly ; and the only 
semblance of religion consisted in some unmeaning 
ceremonies performed before the crosses. In speak- 
ing of their present religious system, he adverted 
to the four books of authority upon which it was 
founded ; viz. 1st, the Bible, being so far as I could 
understand a portion of the Old Testament ; 2nd, 
the Psalms of David ; 3rd, the Evangelists ; and 4th, 
the Koran. But he contended that the communica- 
tion of Mohammed, as having been received immedi- 
ately from God himself, is entitled to more respect 
than that of Christ, which came through the medium 
of the archangel Michael ; and, finding himself 

* It will be seen hereafter, that an equally respectable witness 
speaks of the past times with as much of regret as this one does of con= 
demnation. I have but to give their evidence impartially. 

VOL. I. N 



178 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



unopposed in this position (as proselytism is not our 
mission), and that the Koran was even commended 
for the precepts of morality that are diffused through 
it — and Mohammed for having introduced better 
religion than the miserable corruption of Christ- 
ianity which previously prevailed around him ; he 
got emboldened to make the experiment (as it seemed 
to me) of taking up another ; viz. that the knowledge 
communicated in the Koran is sufficient, and no other 
books necessary. This, however, being less danger- 
ous ground for attack, in a passing conversation we 
assailed him on it, made him abandon it, and event- 
ually even express a desire for more knowledge, upon 

which Mr. L by way of clenching this nail of 

conviction, presented him with a Turkish History of 
Turkey. 

Hadji Ismael gave us further instances of the 
equality aimed at by the lower orders here (in accord- 
ance with the principles of the Koran), and said, that 
they had raised their fines to the level of those of the 
nobles ; viz. two hundred head of oxen for homicide, 
twenty-four for seduction, and so forth. I grieve, 
however, to learn that these Circassian warriors have 
not yet attained to a just knowledge of the value of 
the gentler sex ; as the fine for slaying one of them, 
which, defenceless as they are, should certainly be 
greater than that for slaying a man, has been fixed at 
only one half ! But on this exciting occasion, calling 
to our aid recollections of all the worth of our unri- 
valled countrywoman, whether as wife, mother, or 
daughter, we attacked the Circassians (for several 
were present) vigorously in all their heretical posi- 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



179 



tions ; and, if we were not victorious in convincing 
them of their error, in underrating the value of 
the female mind and functions, I trust we at least 
deserved to be so. 

I have learned some other regulations of the frater- 
nities ; viz. that upon the death of any member, his 
wife being the property of the fraternity, as having 
been purchased by one of its members, is given in 
marriage without payment, to another member, upon 
the condition of his supporting her children if she 
have any ; but if she be too old to be married again, 
the society is bound to support her. If she get per- 
mission to marry into another fraternity, she must 
part with her children, who must remain in their 
father's. 

Hadji Ismael hearing we had some matters to 
discuss with the chiefs in his neighbourhood, offered 
to write anything we wished, or to communicate it 
to those who assemble, pretty numerously he says 
every Friday, to say prayers at his mosk. We 
prefer holding another congress, so soon as it can be 
constituted. 

The young man I saw wounded at Pshat is since 
dead. Shamuz has just emancipated one of the few 
serfs he has remaining and all his family. Such acts 
of benevolence are often performed according to the 
expression used here " for the soul." This is the 
man I was so pleased with on the journey from the 
south. Shamuz emancipated his deceased father 
also, for a long course of faithful services. Slavery, 
according to our acceptation of the word, does not 
exist here ; and is not at all the term that should be 

N 2 



180 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



used in speaking of the condition of the lowest grade 
of Circassians. When an individual of this class is 
transferred from one occupier of land to another, an 
amount of cattle or goods, at present equivalent to 
from £15 to £20, is paid for the right of his services ; 
but such transference cannot take place without 
the servant's consent, and he receives lodging, main- 
tenance, clothing, and some gratuity yearly for his 
services. When he wishes to marry, his master 
must pay the purchase-money of his beloved ; and 
with regard to their children, the boys continue 
servants of the master; and when the girls are 
married, the money paid for them is divided between 
the master and the father. If the master strike or 
otherwise ill-use his servant, he has the right to insist 
upon being sold to another. He may also buy his 
freedom, the present price of which is about thirty 
oxen. Fines for his misdemeanours must be paid 
by his master ; and in this way our host paid, lately, 
two hundred oxen for homicide committed by one of 
his serfs, and he has at present to pay sixty oxen on 
account of the same man, who has fled to Russia 
with another man's wife. 

These servants cultivate the ground, take care of 
the horses and cattle, and serve in the guest-house ; 
but the more menial duties — the hewing of wood and 
drawing water — are generally assigned to Russian 
captives. The Circassian serf cannot be compelled 
by his master to go to war ; and upon journeys, it is 
considered more comme il faut to take a free man as 
an attendant. 

I have already mentioned the low price of Russians : 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



181 



when an exchange of prisoners takes place, he who 
has a relative to redeem buys a Russian slave to give 
for him. The tenure of land seems to be here on a 
remarkably primitive footing, no one among these 
simple people appearing to have conceived the notion 
of calling a greater extent of land his own than what 
he can usefully occupy ; in fact no more than what 
he has enclosed for immediate culture. Grazings 
are common to neighbours, and are seldom enclosed, 
and any one finding ground unoccupied may seat 
himself upon and enclose it forthwith. The soil in 
fact is considered national property, and occupancy 
the only transient title of an individual to any 
portion of it. No payment of any kind has to be 
made to any superior. The only case in which I 
have heard of payment being made is where a 
wealthy man has given a poorer one the means of 
cultivating the ground, when the produce is equally 
divided between them. 

Public opinion and established usage appear to 
be supreme in this country ; and upon the whole, I 
cannot but admire the order that prevails under 
them. Outrages, and some of considerable flagrancy, 
occur, but they result chiefly from quarrels or their 
consequences, and are comparatively rare; while the 
morality, harmony, tranquillity, and good-breeding, 
that characterise the people in their general inter- 
course, are such as very few countries with written 
codes of law and all the complex machinery in 
general deemed necessary for the distribution of 
justice, can boast of. If the standard of good man- 



182 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



ners be not a high one here, it is at least such as all 
endeavour to act up to, and the great majority 
attain ; and the extremes of sumptuousness and 
refinement, or beggary and debasement, are equally 
unknown. 

Barley, oats, and rye, which were sown in the 
autumn, have been ready for the sickle for ten days 
past, especially the barley ; and their harvest has at 
length commenced. Wheat— of which I have seen 
only one field — 'Turkey corn, and millet, were not 
sown till spring, and I think it will be at least a 
month before the two latter be ripe. 

Whatever jurisdiction or authority the very ancient 
family of Basti-ku PshemafF, the prince of this 
district, may have possessed formerly, I can see no 
semblance of anything of the kind having descended 
to him, beyond the chief place at table or on divans. 
At councils he and others of rank, unless they be old 
men, always give way to such as are elders and have 
abilities for public debate. 

Wednesday, 5th. — On Sunday afternoon we rode 
over to the plain of Anapa, for the purpose of seeing 
it, and of meeting some chiefs there on the following 
day upon state affairs. Our quarters were with 
Subash, a wealthy proprietor (of the thfokotl, or 
middle rank), and formerly atalik of Tuguz. He is 
a lively, handsome old man, seventy-two years of age, 
who, when girt with his arms and in the saddle, has 
no appearance of being beyond fifty or fifty-five. 
All his sons have perished in the wars, and last year 
he had his corn destroyed and cattle driven off by his 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASS1A. 



183 



neighbours the Russians, yet he remains in the same 
situation — viz. just within the verge of a little thicket 
in the valley, with some marshy ground in front to 
retard intruders. 

On Monday, after a dinner of about ten tables, 
finding that some misunderstanding had taken place 
with regard to the meeting, we determined to spend 
the day in a visit to the Russians, whose demesnes 
Subash knows well, and undertook to pilot us through. 
A ride of about two hours brought us to a stream, 
on whose banks we dismounted for prayers. Another 
hour brought us among rising ground, trees, and 
thickets, where we were desired to go slowly while 
some of our seven attendants rode forward to beat 
the bushes for Russians, who often lie in wait there- 
abouts to fire upon those who adventure further. 
This process being gone through without any game 
being started, we reached the top of the rising ground 
and obtained a view of the whole of the Russian 
acquisitions and establishments in this the locality of 
their earliest conquest in Circassia. At about a 
mile from the termination of some low hills to our 
left lay Anapa, which, from where we stood (some 
five miles distant), seemed but a dark short ridge on 
the margin of the sea, in a creek of which on the 
north lay one small vessel at anchor. Towards our 
right, at about three miles and a half from Anapa, 
on the plateau of a small eminence, we were shown 
some rows of houses and windmills, enclosed within 
an earthen rampart. This the Circassians called 
the new agricultural colony ; and two miles in 
advance of it, and still more towards the right, was 



184 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



to be seen on the brow of an eminence, a small cir- 
cular earthen-walled redoubt. 

While surveying these interesting objects, I was 
surprised, as I had formerly been at Pshat, to see 
that one of our party (again on a white horse, and 
thus more conspicuous) had advanced within half 
cannon-range of the redoubt, and was still leisurely 
approaching it. Upon observing this, six of our 
party, including Mr. L — — , advanced one after 
another towards the fort, leaving four of us on the 
eminence, two Circassians, myself and servant. I 
felt chagrined at unprofitable danger being thus 
again incurred, and at the little time that remained 
(for the afternoon was already far advanced) for 
examining Anapa more closely, the prime object of 
our excursion being thus, as I thought, injudiciously 
neglected. 

Leaving therefore one of my Circassian attendants 
on the eminence, to tell the rest of the party whither 
I was gone, I desired the other to pilot me through 
the copse-wood in the valley on our left, to the hills 
that overlook Anapa. I found the copse-wood to 
be entirely composed of oak saplings, whose branches 
were so densely interwoven, that our horses were 
occasionally enveloped in them, and had some diffi- 
culty in forcing their way. The moral effects of 
this obstruction were not lessened, as may be sup- 
posed, by the idea that occasionally visited me of 
having the scene described in the Lady of the Lake 
here realised, by there starting up from among the 
thickets, a host of "belted warriors armed for strife." 
But while entertaining this fancy, my fears were 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



185 



suddenly transferred from my own party to that of 

Mr. L , by three reports of cannon, whose smoke 

curled upwards over the wooded eminence behind us, 
which, to the heightening of our anxiety for our 
friends, prevented us seeing if any execution had 
been done among them. My first impulse was to 
turn and satisfy myself on this point ; but on looking 
back, I found we had already made our way through 
a considerable portion of the valley, so that "return- 
ing were as tedious as go o'er," and, by the time we 
had returned, there was no saying but that our 
friends might have been driven back through the 
valley to the north, by the garrison of the fort, and 
that we three might, by our return, have fallen into 
the hands of the enemy. I determined therefore to 
go forward to the hills, in the hope that those I was 

most anxious about, Mr. L the youngest son of 

Shamuz (a charming boy), and our old host Subash, 
had not suffered by the shot, and would take the 
warning given them to avoid more. 

Amid these conflicting feelings, the desagremens 
of which Luca increased by exclaiming every now 
and then, " Que dirons-nous a Kehri-ku si son petit 
fils est tu6?" (this son however his father sends to 
the wars like the rest), we at length, after much 
toil, reached the side of the hill, which afforded a 
better view of Anapa, and the recent colonial esta- 
blishments and redoubt in advance of it. But the 
interest of the scene was gone, we therefore turned 
our elevation to account in finding the most practi- 
cable way back ; and, in silent anxiety about our 
friends, descended the hill and recrossed the valley 
by a detour. 



186 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



While so doing I perceived a person on a white 
horse riding towards the redoubt among the trees, 
near which we had separated, but at too great a 
distance for the possibility of my distinguishing if 
he were friend or foe. When we reached the base of 
the wooded hillock, where the Russian scouts are 
said to lurk, not a human being was to be seen 
around. It wanted little more than two hours of 
sunset ; we had a five hours' ride still to perform 
before reaching Semez, where our night's quarters 
had been fixed ; the excursion to the Anapa hills 
had taken much more time than I expected ; it 
appeared highly probable that our friends during 
our separation had left the ground, either by our 
former road 3 or some other ; and, lastly, it seemed 
rash for us three to attempt crossing the patrol- 
ground of the Russians, after their attention had been 
excited, and ignorant as we were of what had oc- 
curred during our long absence. These reasons 
determined me to return homewards, but I left the 
Circassian, who resided in the neighbourhood, to 
tell our friends what had become of us, and Luca 
and I set out to find our way as we best could back 
to the hamlet of Subash. This, after some devia- 
tions, we reached, and our anxiety was increased by 
learning there that none of the party had returned. 
Still there remained a hope that they had taken a 
more direct road to Semez, and that Subash also 
had gone there. His absence made it impossible for 
us to remain at his house for the night ; therefore 
after devoting in vain half-an-hour of the three 
quarters of sunlight that remained to an anxious 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



187 



gaze over the valley for anything like the approach 
of our friends, we were reluctantly compelled to depart 
without them, having first got a man on foot to 
accompany us, less from fear of not finding the way 
than for preventing our being stopped as suspected 
persons. The greater portion of our ride homewards 
was performed in darkness and silence, saving when 
Luca exclaimed from time to time that the man had 
lost the way, or that if we did not find our friends 
at Semez something serious must have happened to 
them. With this latter conclusion I felt forced to 
coincide ; but as to the way it troubled me little 
while I could see that it lay as it ought to do, between 
the hills that bound this valley. 

We reached this hamlet about ten at night, and 
were dismayed to learn that none of the rest had 
been heard of. I desired Luca to say nothing of the 
cannon-firing, lest our hostess should unnecessarily 
be rendered anxious about her son. I had not yet 
decided with myself what had best be done, when 
turning to see who had entered our room, I recog- 
nised young Nogha'i, quietly hanging up his rifle, 
and, in a few minutes, he was followed by all the 
rest, old Subash included. The painful anxiety and 
silence of the last six hours were now succeeded by 
the opposite extreme of noise and merriment, and the 
same tale of adventure was being told at one and the 
same time in three different languages. 

The circumstances were these. The party recon- 
noitred the fort so closely, that the Russians fired 
first one cannon, and subsequently two others, to 
drive them away ; but they proceeded on towards 



188 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



Anapa, until they came abreast of the fortified colony, 
between which and where they were was the ridge 
at the termination of which the small circular fort is 
constructed. Upon the summit of this ridge two 
horsemen appeared. The first cannon-ball passed 

close by Mr. L who was then immediately 

opposite the horsemen, and separated from the rest 
of his friends. He took these two men to be Pshemaff 
and another, and galloped towards them. Luckily a 
small morass intervened, which his horse hesitated to 
cross, and gave him time to perceive his error. The 
Russians then galloped back to the colony, and pre- 
sently a body of about 300 soldiers sallied rapidly 
out, to repel the seven reconnoitrers, whom no doubt 
they thought the avant-garde of a larger body. 
The garrison of the redoubt had been cutting grass, 
but a good way within range of its guns. Osman, 
one of our party, captured a gcod military great-coat 
belonging to one of them. Having thus gratified 
their curiosity, made booty, and given the enemy a 
false alarm, our friends took the shortest road to 
Semez. Late at night Shamuz returned home, and 
expressed his great surprise that no casualty had 
happened to us, as the Russians, he said, were almost 
invariably placed in ambush as far as the stream 
where we had halted for prayers, and many Circas- 
sians had been wounded lately in proceeding beyond 
it. I must endeavour in future to find a less ventur- 
ous pilot than old Subash. 

The country towards Anapa affords evidence of 
exuberant fertility, and former cultivation. In some 
places, the deep rich grass had such a quantity of 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



189 



corn growing wild among it, that, at a little distance, 
it had the appearance of corn-fields still under cultiva- 
tion. In one large tract I — or rather my horse — had 
some difficulty in making way through herbs with a 
yellow flower (of which I have specimens) from nine 
to ten feet high : the horse ate them greedily. The 
great extent of ground cleared of all trees proved 
what I was told, that the population of that valley 
had formerly been very considerable ; while the w T ide 
oak copses, in other localities, proved also that nature 
was resuming possession of this disputed territory. 

The news of to-day are, that a large body of Cir- 
cassians has crossed the Kuban at Adughum, and 
that much cannon and musket-firing has been since 
heard. 

Yesterday, in compliance with a ten days' invita- 
tion, we went to attend the marriage, or rather be- 
trothment-festivities of the son of a neighbouring 
wealthy merchant. Their hamlet is in the centre of 
the valley ; but I presume that a feast in the open air 
there would be apt to attract many more guests than 
provision could well be made for ; and this I took 
to be the reason of the merriment in question, having 
been held in a little glen near our residence. We 
went over, ladies and all (but not together), between 
nine and ten o'clock, by which time a very large 
company was already assembled, and a wide densely- 
packed circle of males and females was busily en- 
gaged in dancing. But, in this amusement, I am 
sorry to say, the Circassians, so far as I have yet seen, 
have not displayed any elegance of invention. The 
circle was composed of men and girls alternately ; 



190 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



each man placed his arms under those of the girls 
who adjoined him, and interlaced his fingers with 
theirs. The master of ceremonies— with a long flat 
baton in his hand to keep order withal — the musicians 
and other individuals, some of whom sung a sort of 
bass accompaniment to the instrumental music ; were 
placed in the midst of the circle. The instruments 
were the three-fingered pipe, and two-stringed violin 
SmLJ07 * nave formerly described. As for the dancing, it 
consisted merely of a swinging of the body backward 
and forward (the entire circle moving round slowly 
at the same time), as if it were preparatory to an 
occasional springing gently upwards on the toes. 
Sometimes only a portion of the circle moved thus 
upwards, communicating the motion to the rest in 
vermicular undulations ; sometimes the whole did so 
simultaneously; and ever and anon, as some slen- 
derer damsel became oppressed with the squeezing, 
heat and dust, and retired to the adjoining group of 
females, others were brought forward by their mothers 
to supply the vacancies ; and, in the selection of these 
vacancies, no doubt a good deal of maternal prudence 
and foresight was exerted, as I thought I saw. This 
figure was danced during all the time we remained, 
and would be continued till sunset, having as strong 
a hold, it would seem, on the fancies of the Circas- 
sian young folks, as the " first quadrille " had, or has 
on those of England. But even with this peaceful 
pastime, something warlike must be mingled, to stimu- 
late the Circassian fancy ; thus pistols every few mi- 
nutes were fired over the circle of dancers, and it was 
incessantly threatened with a breach being made in 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



191 



it, by an onset of horsemen (some of the chiefs took 
part in this, but none in the dancing), who were 
repelled by a body of youths on foot, screaming and 
striking the horses with branches of trees to frighten 
them. But nothing of all this appeared to have the 
least effect upon the nerves of the ladies, either young 
or old ; and even a much more alarming, though, I 
fear, not a very unusual incident I am about to men- 
tion, produced none of those vociferous and unequi- 
vocal evidences of fear which slight causes frequently 
elicit from the females of the West. 

While gazing from an eminence upon the dancers, 
Mr. L and I saw, amid a little throng of lookers- 
on, a long white pole suddenly elevated and brought 
down with such good or rather bad will on the head 
of one of the party, that it felled him to the ground 
instantaneously. The dance was broken up by the 
men in it rushing out to surround the aggressor, 
when a loud and violent altercation ensued. Mean- 
time the females retired, and we descended to see 
the sufferer, a tall young man, who was led under a 
tree with his head bleeding copiously. But the blow 
had fortunately taken place on the side of his head, 
where the sheep's wool of their caps forms a good 
protection ; otherwise the skull must have been frac- 
tured, unless those of Circassia be much harder than 
ours. The young man did not utter a word of com- 
plaint ; amid the conflicting statements given us by 
others, the only explanation we could then get was, 
that he was a relative of Tshuruk-oku Tughuz, and 
had been present when one of his serfs shot a relative 
of the present aggressor, who appeared the more to 



192 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



blame, as the master of the festival had, at its com- 
mencement, made proclamation (according to custom) 
requiring that all present should defer their feuds, 
if they had any. We accordingly expressed strongly 
our disgust at the conduct of the assailant, and our 
determination to quit the ground unless he were sent 
away. He had the discretion not to wait for this. 
By and by the females were brought back from some 
adjoining houses they had retired to, and the festivi- 
ties proceeded without further interruption unless 
the serving of a plentiful dinner can be called such. 
To us the scene it afforded was none of the least 
interesting, as there were present between three and 
four hundred people, divided, according to their 
grades and fancies, into some dozen separate groups, 
to serve whom three or four men mounted and as 
many on foot, flying about with tables, trenchers, 
&c, in their hands, were kept busily employed. 
The ladies dined by themselves in the houses ; and 
their frequent slow and stately procession to and from 
these houses, formed to my eye by far the most 
graceful part of their performances. Horse-racing 
and mark-firing were other portions of the enter- 
tainment. We retired soon after the repast, having 
first sent a present to the betrothed lady. Another 
entertainment will be given when the marriage takes 
place. 

Upon subsequent inquiry as to the cause of the 
assault we had witnessed, it turned out that the 
young man who had suffered by it (who has since 
been here and appears none the worse for the blow) 
was present, and assisting along with thirty or forty 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



193 



other members of two fraternities, in putting to death 
a man who had been found an incorrigible thief ; 
and that his relative thought it incumbent on him 
to avenge the death, because the trial and sentencing 
of the culprit^had not been conducted with the usual 
formalities, the heads or presidents of the societies 
not having been present. The prescribed forms are 
that each man should be tried (as I shall hereafter 
show) by the elders of the two fraternities concerned, 
and be punished by his own society ; that smaller 
fines should be inflicted for the first and second theft, 
and one of 200 oxen or death for the third ; and if 
death be'inflicted by others than one's own fraternity, 
200 oxen fall to be paid by those concerned in it 
to the fraternity and family of the person executed. 
The young man was generally blamed for having 
presented himself at the festival, while the feud 
necessarily arising out of the irregular proceedings 
of his fraternity was uncompounded ; because he 
might have expected that some of the opposite party 
would be present also. 

Much cannon-firing has been heard to the south- 
ward. 

A wealthy Armenian merchant, who is here to- 
day, is atalik to one of Mensur's sons, which is so 
far a proof that the Mussulmans in this quarter are 
not illiberal. I have however heard this circumstance 
objected against Mensur, but the objection seemed 
based on party feeling. 

We have just bought a gold coin which was 
shown us at the entertainment yesterday. A 
description of it and of some other coins which 

VOL. I. O 



194 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



we picked up in Notwhatsh, is reserved for the 
Appendix. 

Some beautiful goat- skin leather made here has 
just been shown us. 

There can be no greater proof of the penury to 
which the people of this province have been reduced 
by the war than this, that we have been applied to 
to contribute some aid to the wife and family of 
Sefir Bey. Her mind was beginning to suffer 
through the anxiety occasioned by his long absence ; 
but it is said to have recovered in some degree through 
the hopes occasioned by our presence. She and her 
husband sutler from the same malady, princely mu- 
nificence or profusion. It is said our gift (no great 
things) will make her looked upon as much honoured. 

I have still a pretty good stock of tea, which 
enables us to regale our visiters with a beverage they 
appear very fond of ; but my stock of sugar being 
nearly out, we sent to buy some honey, and it was 
brought to-day in a goat skin, the commonest vessel 
for all things. My tea has made the Circassians 
here produce theirs ; viz. an herb which grows wild 
in this valley, and elsewhere abundantly, and the use 
of which, as a substitute for either tea or tobacco (!) 
was first pointed out to them, ten years since, by a 
Hadji from Bokhara. It makes a tolerable infusion, 
which we shall drink and be glad of when my Chinese 
tea is done. I have preserved specimens of the plant. 

Thursday, 6th. — They have at length begun the 
barley harvest, which I have been urging them to do 
for more than a week past ; but much will now be 
lost from over-dryness, besides the sacrifice of time. 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



195 



Their sickles are like ours; but those I have seen 
are sadly worn. The thermometer at noon to-day, 
and for some hours after, stood in the shade at 
eighty-two degrees, and at ten p.m. it was at sixty- 
eight degrees. 

Here, besides myriads of the common fly, is another 
of the same size and form (lighter in colour), but 
with a different disposition, as it alights on one's 
skin without the bustle of the other, and so gentry, 
that the sting of its sharp proboscis, where it first 
alights, is the first sensation that gives notice of its 
presence. 

Prince PshemafF seems to me much to be pitied at 
present. His family is at Constantinople ; he has 
not head enough for state affairs ; there is no war as 
yet, save occasional attacks upon the foragers of the 
army at Pshat ; and his station does not admit of his 
taking part in the forays into the Russian territory, 
or against the cattle of the garrisons of the forts 
here. Inspecting our property and occupations, 
afforded him some amusement for a time ; but this, I 
fear, is getting stale, and every now and then he has 
recourse to the fiddle (which he cannot play well) for 
relief under the burden of his existence. If peace 
come suddenly upon this country, the chief " occupa- 
tion " of this prince, and of many others of inferior 
rank and similar character, will be gone ; and unless 
a lively trade succeed, and induce them to betake 
themselves to agriculture on a larger scale, they must 
die the lingering death of ennui ; for you must 
remember, there are here no towns or villages where 
idle people may congregate to help one another to 

o 2 



196 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



kill their greatest enemy — time. Happy the country 
whose sons have daily a good portion of active 
duties to perform ! 

Saturday, 8th. — In one of the skirmishes at 
Pshat, a grandson and two serfs of Indar-oku have 
been wounded. The former, a mere lad, was sur- 
rounded, but escaped with two wounds. Russian 
deserters come over almost daily, and they report that 
the English and French fleets are expected : much to 
the satisfaction of the Russian soldiery, who are 
disgusted with this long war, and wish it ended any 
how. 

Here was to-day a blind lad, who played on the 
Circassian pipe, and who seemed ( " furore dulci 
plenus") furiously inspired by the god or demon 
of music ; for he rolled his sightless balls, tossed 
occasionally and wildly an arm to correct the time- 
keeper and singers accompanying him, and the veins 
and muscles of his neck and face were so distended 
and exerted, that it was painful to look at him. He 
appeared completely master of his instrument. 

Monday, 10th. — An Armenian who has been in 
Anapa lately, says, that it has been resolved to esta- 
blish 15,000 colonists in the neighbourhood of that 
fortress. The Emperor is to furnish them with cattle 
and implements to begin with ; to make good their 
losses by Circassian forays, and share half their profits. 
2000 men, it is said, form the garrison of Anapa 
and its dependencies at present. Recruits have been 
again demanded of the people of Psadug, who have 
again sent to the Abazaks to say, that they intend 
resisting the demand, and wish to know if the 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



197 



Abazaks will support them in their resistance, and 
receive them if they be forced to fly. To this, the 
Abazaks have assented, and bound themselves by an 
oath. 

To-day we had a visit from a Russian soldier 
established in this neighbourhood, and finding him 
clear and cool-headed, we had some conversation with 
him. His own story is, that after having been taken 
prisoner, he became attached to this country, and 
determined to establish himself in it, For this pur- 
pose he obtained permission to return into Russia. 
There, for what reason I know not, he was thrown 
into prison, and kept fourteen months in confinement; 
had 200 stripes of the knout, and was again made a 
soldier and sent to Anapa. Here he put his plan in 
execution. He induced (by his representation of the 
life they would lead here) twenty-five men to desert 
with him. He, his wife (for he had got one for the 
exploit), and five of the men, descended the walls by 
means of a rope, during the night, but the rest were 
discovered and arrested. Upon asking him his rea- 
sons for coming over to the Circassians, he replied, 
" to what purpose is the war carried on against this 
country? for last year only the half of our army 
returned, the rest having been cut off, by the Circas- 
sians ; by want of provisions and camp equipage, or 
by disease." He added the well-known dismal picture 
of the life of a Russian soldier, and said his former 
comrades were universally disgusted with this long 
war. It would appear as if the aim of the Russian 
government were to make the life of its soldier of no 
value to him, in order that he may be reckless of it in 



198 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



battle. In proof of the total inefficiency of the 
Russian cavalry against the Circassians, he related 
an instance he witnessed, of fifty-two of the former, 
with two pieces of cannon, having been attacked so 
suddenly and furiously by eight of the latter, that 
they fled into the small fort near Anapa, without 
firing a single cannon-shot ! But the Russian infantry 
he represented as nearly in the same degree superior 
to the Circassians, on account of the want of discipline 
among them. 

The thermometer at four this morning stood at 
55° ; at mid-day, and for the two following hours, it 
generally reaches 15 to 20 degrees higher. I have 
never yet observed a still sultry day, as there is 
always a breeze of wind from one quarter or another. 
Of late, southerly winds have been prevalent. 

Our servant Osman, the Turkish merchant, said 
of us to a friend the other day, " I have got hold of 
their sleeve, and will not quit it till they cut my 
hand off." There is no fear of our doing so, as he 
is a hale merry old fellow, and serves us with heart 
and hand readily. 

Among the numerous deserters who daily arrive 
from the Russian forts or camp, it is still generally 
reported that Russia expects war with England and 
France. Several also ("magna cum parvis ") have 
mentioned my name ; and one in particular, who 
came from Anapa, endeavoured to stipulate on sur- 
rendering himself that he should be taken to speak 
with the Englishmen. A good reward, it is said, 
will be given to any one who will deliver us into the 
hands of the Russians. But it is also put in our 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



199 



power to save them that expense ; for the. governor 
of Anapa has sent word that he would be happy 
to receive us in the fortress. He amused himself 
also at my expense, in expressing wonder that my 
brother had not sent me some ship-loads of arms and 
ammunition, for the use of my friends the Cir- 
cassians. 

This communication came through the medium 
of messengers, who had been sent to that officer (not 
with our knowledge) with a copy of WilliaminefFs 
answer to the message of the Circassians, and of their 
reply thereto. He expressed disapproval of William- 
ineff 's letter, and promised to the envoys to report 
the correspondence to his government. He added a 
wonderful story about the Sultan having abdicated 
in favour of his son, and having gone to Odessa to 
meet the Emperor and demand restitution of the 
Crimea, threatening implacable war in case of refusal. 
This tale of the Sultan's abdication has come here 
by another channel also. Such are the paltry tricks 
which the Russians devise for the purpose — -it ap- 
pears to me—of amusing the Circassians, and thus 
gaining time to build forts and raise more troops for 
their destruction ! 

By occasionally concentrating their forces for the 
severe punishment of one tribe ; by threatening some, 
and cajoling others with promises of peace, amity, 
and other advantages, the Russians have certainly 
succeeded to a considerable extent in substantiating 
the principle " divide et impera." By this means, 
they obtained permission to punish the Karatsha'i 
(near the head of the Kuban), and have bound the 



200 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



chiefs of Psadug, and the provinces eastward of it, 
by treaties of mutual forbearance, while they are 
laying waste the territories of their immediate neigh- 
bours in Shapsuk and Notwhatsh. The obligation 
of such a treaty has been pleaded by these chiefs, 
hitherto, as the cause of their not aiding the people 
of the two latter provinces; and they urge in addition 
the openness and indefensibility of their part of the 
country as a reason why they should not expose 
themselves to the fury of the Russians, uncertain as 
they feel of support from the Abazaks. 

Such are the materials which we are endeavouring, 
and shall — when we know, by news from England, 
whether our footing be firm or not — more strenuously 
endeavour to combine into a general national move- 
ment. 

Psadug extends from the Sheps (opposite whose 
junction with the Kuban is the fortress of Yeka- 
terinodar) to the Pshish ; and, to a like distance 
from the Kuban to the frontier of Abazak, form- 
ing a square. The principal chief of the district 
is Prince Atshaigag-oku Pshugui ; who, it is said, 
can bring from 5 to 6000 men into the field, 
and who has not permitted the Russians to have 
any forts or troops within his territories. Be- 
tween the Pshish and the Buyuk (great) Laba 
(opposite whose mouth is the fortress of Ustla- 
binskaia) are the provinces of Hatukwoi, Temigui, 
Makhosh, &c, which entered into the same league 
of mutual forbearance as Psadug. Eastward of the 
Laba is a great plain, destitute of firewood, and 
therefore uninhabited, save by deer, foxes, fitches, 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



201 



&c. It is from these provinces, and Besni (which 
lies to the south-east of them), that troops have of 
late been demanded by the Russians, but the chiefs 
(who have much more power than those of Not- 
whatsh and Shapsuk) have hitherto steadfastly re- 
fused compliance, and they take, moreover, every 
opportunity of encouraging the latter in their resist- 
ance, and of communicating to them such intelli- 
gence of the intentions and movements of the Rus- 
sians as they can obtain. 

Tuesday, 11th. — There has been held here to-day 
the trial of a case of theft. The assemblage consisted 
of the judge of the district, (with a great book of 
Turkish law, copiously indexed,) our venerable host, 
and some dozen other seniors, as assessors. The 
number of the latter varies according to the import- 
ance of the case, but six from each of the fraternities 
concerned is the minimum. The delinquency in 
question was the theft of an axe ; but being the 
second offence committed by the culprit, the punish- 
ment w r as necessarily more severe. A fine of twenty- 
four oxen was therefore first agreed on ; but upon a 
representation having been made as to the poverty of 
the thief, the fine, after much debate, was reduced to 
fifteen oxen. 

To these trials witnesses are cited, who are first 
examined as to their faith, and (if Mussulmans) are 
made to take an oath on the Koran to speak truth. 
But their testimony, nevertheless, has weight only in 
proportion to their known credibility ; and the testi- 
mony of a person of bad character is considered inad- 
missible. The culprit also is examined, and is per- 



202 RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 

mitted to speak for himself, and to cross-question the 
witnesses. The proceedings, as may be supposed, 
(from the characters of the witnesses being occasion- 
ally matter of debate,) are often very tedious, and 
occupy several successive days, sometimes weeks ; and 
during this time, if the case be of such importance 
that people are brought from a distance to it, the 
plaintiff and defendant must respectively maintain 
their assessors and witnesses. The successful party 
has also to make a payment to the judge, varying 
from two to four per cent. These are all the charges 
which either of the parties can be put to. It is in- 
cumbent on the fraternities to inforce the execution 
of the sentences of the tribunal, and each fraternity 
must aid the families of its members (according to 
certain fixed proportions) in paying the fines imposed 
for homicide (of whatever sort), and other criminal or 
fortuitous delinquencies. Time (often to a consider- 
able extent) is allowed to the culprit or his family for 
the payment of his proportion of the fine awarded 
against him ; but in cases such as homicide, death, 
or some other severe penalty, is inflicted in the event 
of over-protracted payment. 

Every individual (including serfs) is comprised in 
some fraternity or other ; for at his birth he is held 
to belong to that of which his father is a member. 

Serfs are frequently manumitted, and they can 
then enter a fraternity, upon taking an oath to abide 
by its regulations, and pay their portion of its fines. 
Each fraternity is presided over by its elders, without 
any election. The hoary beard, with respectability 
of character, forms the only title to respect and pre- 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



203 



eminence both in council and elsewhere. In other 
respects there is entire equality among the members 
of every fraternity ; and, however numerous they 
may be, their families cannot intermarry — such 
marriage being considered incestuous. 

The fines, as I have said before, are mitigated if 
the culprit be poor ; except in cases of injury to the 
person — in these the fixed fine must always be paid. 
The fraternities are of all numbers — from fifteen or 
twenty, to two or three thousand. Smaller fraternities 
are frequently combined together in one large one. 
But although a fraternity always pays (proportion- 
ally) the fines for homicides committed by its mem- 
bers, it is usual, after the commission of two or 
three homicides by the same individual, to punish 
him by death, or selling him to slavery. These 
punishments are also inflicted in other cases of in- 
curable delinquency ; the sentence of death being 
executed by throwing the condemned person into the 
sea, or a river, with his arms tied. Traitorous cor- 
respondence with the Russians is a crime par excel- 
lence, and is punished by the enslavement or death 
of the culprit, the seizure of his family and effects, 
and the sale of the members of the family into slavery 
■—the proceeds of the sale being divided among those 
who detect the crime, or aid in its punishment. The 
fines for civil crimes are levied from the members of 
the fraternity of the party offending, and are divided 
among the members of the fraternity of the party 
aggrieved ; the person aggrieved, or the immediate 
relatives of one killed, receive (as the delinquent also 
pays) only a small proportion more than the other 



204 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



members of the fraternity. A person condemned to 
death by his own fraternity may, if he can, fly to the 
member of another, and make a konak of him ; and 
the konak, with his society, becomes bound to protect 
or pay for him. The common people have of late 
raised their fine for homicide to the level of that of 
the nobles — 200 oxen. The fine for the homicide of 
a prince was here, till of late, and is still, to the 
eastward, about ten times higher; while that of a 
khan or sultan appears to remain undefined in 
amount. 

These fraternities are said to be of great antiquity ; 
and it appears strange that so singular a feature in 
Circassian society should not have been mentioned, 
so far as I have observed, by any writer upon this 
country. They are essentially the government of 
Circassia ; and any improvement in it must be 
ingrafted upon them, deeply rooted as they are in the 
habits and affections of the people. 

A stranger obtaining any native for a konak has 
claim upon him for the rights of protection and hos- 
pitality (as inviolable among the Circassians as among 
the Arabs) ; but the whole of his host's fraternity 
are held equally responsible for his safety and well- 
being ; and they consider themselves bound to avenge 
any insult or injury done him. If he become much 
esteemed by a family, he is made to take the mother's 
breast in his mouth, and then he is considered as one 
of her sons. 

Our host Kehri-ku, or rather Shamuz (for the sur- 
name is seldom used), had not only his house (built 
a la Turque), but a large proportion of his grain also, 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



205 



burned by the Russians last year ; he has therefore 
permitted us to buy some grain, &c, for the use of 
the guest-house. We bought some sheep also ; but 
this he has prohibited ; and as his own have been 
sent to some hilly country at a distance for security, 
he has to borrow from his neighbours when none are 
presented to us by visiters. In this way we met 
him this evening, a good way up the valley, with a 
lamb for our supper on the horse before him — a 
person whose influence in these two provinces is not 
exceeded by that of any other ! 

On our return he said he saw I was to blame for 

the long walks Mr. L and I take, as he found 

me generally first. Here as well as elsewhere, I have 
found it difficult to make the Circassians appreciate 
the benefits of exercise, which they never themselves 
take, unless for some ultimate object. Our daily 
promenades seem to them but the wearing of shoes 
or fatiguing of horses. The irregularity of their 
meal-times seems to us another heresy in their do- 
mestic economy. We have two principal meals, and 
sometimes two subsidiary ones. Of the two former 
we have had the morning one at all hours, from nine 
to four, and the evening one at all hours, from seven 
to eleven. And this is not a peculiarity of this 
household. 

I believe the people here are surprised at our 
extravagance in using butcher's meat everyday ; for 
the great majority of the inhabitants, rich as well as 
poor, are content with vegetable diet and milk, unless 
when they have visiters. We were tried with this for 
two or three days, when we had no visiters and our 



206 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



host was absent ; but our British stomachs rebelling, 
we bought some sheep, and that hint of our habit 
has been sufficient ever since. 

Prince PshemafF, the other inmate of this hamlet, 
generally favours us with his company at our butcher- 
meat meals (the other meals he is less careful to par- 
take of), and we have thus abundant opportunities 
of learning both the history of his family and the 
opinion of one of his grade upon the revolutions and 
the present condition of Circassian society. His 
family is generally admitted to be of very remote 
antiquity, and its founder to have been the first 
settler, not only in this portion of the country, but 
a large portion of the coast to the southward, over 
which they exercised uncontrolled supremacy. The 
prince's nominal supremacy still extends as far as 
Tshopsin, — that is, about seventy miles. He is the 
nominal superior of Indar-oku, who is not a Pshe, or 
prince : but he retains only the personal respect still 
conceded to his rank ; and of all the power of his 
ancestry, not a shadow remains. His opinions, it 
may easily be imagined, are unfavourable to the 
changes that are taking place ; yet he takes an 
ample part in the hostile operations against the 
Russians. 



LETTER IX. 



RESIDENCE AT SEMEZ CONTINUED— DIPLOMACY— 
HAY-MAKING AND HARVEST— GEOLOGY— BORDER 
WAR. 

Semez, Wednesday, \§th July, 1837. 

My dear . On Saturday last we went by- 
invitation to pay a visit to Tshuruk-oku Tughuz. We 
were to have set out the day before, but delayed 
doing so in consequence of a pressing invitation to 
attend the funeral feast of a neighbour, where persons 
were expected with whom it was thought desirable 
that we should converse about the measures we wish 
adopted. Having shared in the feast and in a long 
debate that ensued, we set out about two in the 
afternoon, accompanied by Prince Basti-ku Ali-bi, 
a sage elderly noble of this neighbourhood, and some 
eight or nine others. 

Our road lay right across the hills which form the 
east side of this valley ; we found their eastern de- 
clivity very steep, and thickly clad with forest-trees. 
Emerging from these, we reached a winding upland 
valley, through which runs the small lively stream 
Haberdah, along whose banks were fields of exceed- 
ingly rich vegetation, interspersed with clumps of 
trees of large growth. There were frequent indica- 
tions of partial inclosure at a former period, but 
there was little grain, and few habitations were to be 
seen. The hills on each side were clothed with fine 
forest, and their projections, where the rock was laid 



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bare by the stream, showed the presence of lime, one 
large mass of which resembled chalk. The Haberdah 
runs into the Nebejeh, which joins the Adughum on 
its east bank, and forms with it the boundary between 
Shapsuk and Notwhatsh. Immediately on entering 
the valley of the Nebejeh, we descried numerous 
hamlets, not a gun-shot from each other, interspersed 
with rich corn and hay-fields (well inclosed, and with 
gates on the cross-roads), which continued till the 
valley terminates in a large and very oblong plain 
called Tejaghuz, almost the whole of which is de- 
voted to pasture, while the low hills that enclose it, 
and which continue diminishing in elevation as they 
approach the plain of the Kuban, are covered with 
hamlets, corn-fields, and woods. It was now the 
middle of hay harvest, and many parties were 
actively at work. The grain harvest too had begun 
in some places. 

On one of these hills, toward the northern part of 
the plain, we espied the hamlet to which our valiant 
host (in prospectu) had moved last year after the 
burning of his own in the vale of Semez. 

The sun set before we reached the extremity of 
the plain, where Hatukwoi (a relative of our host) 
came out to receive us, when the usual lively scene 
of firing and horse-exercise took place. The firing 
was repeated on our entering the hamlet of Tughuz, 
where a large assemblage of persons was in waiting ; 
and supper having been served " al fresco" under a 
rustic canopy formed of branches of trees and grass, 
we retired for the night to one of the very humble 
cottages occupied by the family for the present. 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



209 



The greater portion of next morning was spent 
under our canopy in political conferences with the 
persons of note assembled; and then there was dis- 
played (against us) on the grass an array of thirty- 
six dinner-tables, which, in such hot sun-shine as 
prevailed at the time, looked more like an attack 
upon our comfort than a contribution to it. Ex- 
hausted by the heat, talking, and eating, I had 
retired a short time to the comparative quiet and 
shade of our cottage, when I was called forth to 
resume my place in the tent ; and presently I saw 
advancing from the houses of our host's family, across 
a little brook, a party of people with his lively white 
charger in the midst. An excellent coat of chain 
mail was laid by one of the party at my feet ; a vista 

in the crowd showed Mr. L the charger which 

was intended for him, and to my servant was given 
a sabre, the scabbard of which was embroidered with 
silver lace. These presentations were accompanied 
by a short speech from Tughuz expressive of his want 
of means wherefrom to give things more suited to 
our deserts, and of his hope that we would be 
contented with such as he could give. We replied 
in suitable terms to such generosity, and added, that 
having accepted his presents as a proof of his attach- 
ment and respect, we must beg of him to allow us to 
return the horse, adding that we should consider the 
coat of mail as presented to us jointfy. This seemed 
to us the more necessary, that this brave chief is kept 
constantly in want by his extreme munificence ; for 
although he frequently receives large presents from 
his wealthy relatives in the interior, he gives them 

VOL. I. P 



210 



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away (as he did with a present we gave him) almost 
as soon as he gets them. Thus it comes that he 
who a short time ago had thirty horses and four 
coats of mail, has now scarcely a horse but the white 
charger, and no other coat of mail than the one I 
have spoken of. But he is about to set out on 
another visit to his relatives, and it is to be hoped he 
will return a richer and a wiser man. 

We were taken after this ceremony into a neigh- 
bouring wood to see an oak celebrated for its size 
and antiquity. It took eight men's arms, full 
stretched, to gird it, at the height of their arms above 
the ground ; and it is from sixty to seventy feet high, 
yet is it still " green and flourishing." The Prince 
of Janat, who was present, said that his ancestors 
had had possessions in the neighbourhood " since the 
time of the Genovese" and the tradition among them 
was that the oak had always been the same. " Crescit 
occulto," &c. thought I. 

On returning from this walk, I observed a large 
field of barley quite ripe, which three little boys 
were cutting, while a dozen of young men, near at 
hand, were amusing themselves at catching each 
other (perhaps exercise in prisoner- taking), leap-frog, 
rope-skipping, &c. Harvest work would, I presume, 
from this and similar instances, be esteemed degrad- 
ing to warriors. 

We were now to be the guests of judge and priest 
Hadji Ismael, and were accordingly shown into a small 
hurdle-fenced paddock with a neat clay cottage in 
the midst. This cottage we found to be the mosque ; 
we were given our choice whether we would occupy 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



211 



a room in the judge's hamlet hard by, or a rural 
structure which had been prepared for us in the 
corner of the paddock. The cool and picturesque 
appearance of the latter (besides attention to the feel- 
ings of the architect) made us at once vote for it. 
Its back and roof were composed of leafy branches 
securely intertwined, some long plants being mingled 
in the roofing to make it more dew-proof, while the 
flooring was one soft and fragrant bed of newly- 
mown grass and aromatic herbs, (which abound 
everywhere,) with mats, mattresses, and cushions 
laid over it. While reclining on these and survey- 
ing (from the rising ground on the slope of which 
the mosk is situated) the pleasing landscape which 
the plain, the hills, and the mountains before us 
afforded, the sun went down, and forthwith we were 
agreeably surprised to hear, issuing in musical tones 
from the tree above us, the usual call of the Muezzin 
to prayers from the gallery of the minaret. On 
inspection, I found that a ladder had been constructed 
against the tree ; and that some basket-work fixed 
amid its branches formed a gallery. 

After a substantial supper we stretched ourselves, 
with some five or six warriors beside us, beneath the 
leafy canopy ; and I (being somewhat sleepless of 
late) had sundry opportunities, during that beautiful 
moonlight night, of impressing the interesting scene 
upon my memory. 

Next day we had a visit (among others) of Hadji 
Guz Beg, a stalwart warrior of about sixty years whom 
I described at Pshat, and whose daring exploits have 

made such an impression upon the Russians that the 

p 2 



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RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



women of their frontier make use of his name to 
scare their children into quietness. The Russian 
generals have repeatedly offered him anything he 
chose to ask, if he would enter their service, or even 
speak with them, and the emperor is said to have 
offered a large sum for his portrait. But Guz Beg 
treats all their offers with the scorn they deserve, and 
is indefatigable in planning and executing measures 
of hostility against them. He had just returned from 
an excursion with two hundred and fifty companions 
across the Kuban ; but they found it still so deep from 
the melting of the mountain snows, that they were 
obliged to leave their powder and fire-arms on this side 
of the river, for fear of spoiling them in swimming 
across. Their sabres were thus their only weapons, 
and with these they scoured the precincts of the Russian 
fortresses, and drove in the soldiers engaged in the hay 
harvest ; who fled with such precipitation, that they 
left behind them their scythes, about two hundred of 
which the Circassians brought off in triumph. The 
Hadji is a very strongly-built, hale, old man. His 
features have a ruggedness of expression when quies- 
cent, which they seldom are, fun being their predomi- 
nant characteristic. He dined with us, and showed his 
playfulness of disposition in purloining the cream from 
our side of one dish, handing the major part or the 
whole of the contents of another to the bystanders, 
before we were well begun upon it, &c. But on one 
or two occasions I fancied I could see in his eye (a 
small, keen, restless, grey one) the latent fire of im- 
patience. Not long ago one of his sons accompanied 
him to battle ; and on the youth shrinking from the 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



213 



Russian fire, Guz Beg reproached him for such beha- 
viour in one of his sons ; and drawing his sabre (a 
large and beautiful Damascus blade) he made him 
advance first. The son fell; but these circumstances, 
it was said, did not make the father view his death 
otherwise than is usual here — predestined. He has 
allowed me to make a sketch of him, having first 
made me promise that all his arms should be put in 
the picture : and that the likeness is correct I think I 
may safely say ; because, unaccustomed as the people 
here are to such productions, Shamuz, when shown 
the sketch, exclaimed with a laugh of surprise, 
" That's Guz Beg !" and others have recognised it 
with equal readiness. I have taken two other 
likenesses, which have been similarly recognised ; and 
I intend, as opportunities offer, to form a " Gallery of 
Circassian Notables." 

We have two hosts here — the Mollah and his 
Muezzin, an Anapali Turk, and quite a character, 
a perfect Caleb Quotem; being equally zealous in 
the duties of the mosk, officiating at death-beds, 
cooking, attending at table, directing and joining in 
the sports of the village, acting as a cannoneer-in- 
chief with the single cannon they have, &c. &c. &c. 
His mouth plays the most " fantastic tricks " when 
set a-talking, and his speaking is all superlative 
both in diction and action — in keeping with his 
supererogatory jumping. Upwards of thirty dishes, 
chiefly a-la-Turque, attested his skill in cookery. 
I have a sketch of him for a corner of my 
" Gallery." 

From Tejaghuz we went to the valley of Anapa, 



214 



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(where a large meeting was to take place for the 
trial of a case of manslaughter,) it having been 
thought expedient that we should see some of the 
notables expected there. Our route lay first through 
the rich open valleys I described in my ride to 
Adughum, then through one more narrow but equally 
rich terminating in moderately high unwooded hills, 
the descent of which brought us to the hospitable 
hamlet of old Subash in the valley of Anapa. 

On our way I was again vexed to see so little done 
to reap the immense quantity of ripe corn we passed. 
In one field I saw a single old woman at work ; and, 
in another, three old men. Not so however with the 
hay harvest ; for, in passing the lesser valley, we 
saw a large assemblage of males and females on a 
hill side ; and our escort, knowing its nature, imme- 
diately called a halt and sent an embassy to the hill 
side. We seated ourselves meantime beside a stream ; 
and presently a large body of men with scythes over 
their shoulders descended and marched past us ; then 
a bevy of damsels tripped shyly by, with flowing robes 
and gay silver head and breast ornaments ; and lastly 
came some men bearing boze and cakes, the objects 
of the halt. The mowers proceeded to an adjoining 
field, whence we heard the whole of them begin 
singing, at the full pitch of their lungs, one of their 
lively national airs ; and in passing we found them 
keeping time with the sweep of their scythes ; while 
the young ladies were grouped under a tree in the 
middle of a field, their presence no doubt inciting the 
mowers to greater activity. As we rode past many 
of our party fired their pistols and rifles in honour 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



215 



of the occasion — the commencement of the hay har- 
vest in this quarter. 

On entering the hamlet of that lively septua- 
genarian Subash, we found him on his green giving 
battle with a great branch of a tree to the first four 
of our party ; and he seemed to have fully the best 
of it. But the best ' Dame Quickly' in England 
cannot serve her guests with more assiduous and 
kind attention than this old gentleman exerts gratui- 
tously ; and he had this advantage over her, that the 
pressing invitation he gave us to prolong our visit 
(" as, thank God, I have plenty to entertain you 
with") could not but be supposed totally disinterested. 

After having seen the notables, we returned hither 
by the defile which lies between this valley and that 
of Anapa, and found it tortuous, thickly wooded, and 
such as a hostile army could not easily pass through. 
We spent a night in it, at the picturesque hamlet 
of a very wealthy landholder and merchant, called 
Keral ("the king"). 

Saturday, %%nd. — I mentioned before that the 
three brothers-in-law of Shamuz had fallen in one 
action in the south : their sister had just been told of 
it for the first time, and the vociferations of her grief 
are so violent that they can be heard here — 200 
yards from her house. It is said that she had a 
week's presentiment of bad news ; but feared only 
for her daughter, married to the brother of the Pasha 
of Trebizond. Are such presentiments purely 
accidental ? 

The slaughter of nobles in the present conflict of 
the southern coast is said to be immense — the fighting 



216 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



is incessant, and the people not satisfied with having 
made their princes swear on the Koran that they 
will not make peace with the Russians, have taken 
some of their children as hostages for their fidelity. 

The sea of conjecture we have so long been drifting 
in, has been strongly agitated these two last days by 
gusts of conflicting and monstrous intelligence. A 
Turkish vessel from Constantinople has arrived at 
Khissa, and it is said that her crew have reported 
that English, French, and Egyptian squadrons have 
entered the Black Sea, and proceeded towards Odessa, 
It is also said that the Russian army at Pshat is 
destitute of provisions and ammunition, and that 
William inefi has been taken to Ghelenjik, danger- 
ously ill or dead. Next we heard that twenty men- 
of-war and two steamers — all bearing red flags — had 
appeared on the coast near Pshat. (" Hurrah," cried 
my ardent countryman, " it is the English fleet ! ") 
and our horses were ordered for break of day next 
morning. After this we had a corrected account of the 
allied fleet ; viz., that it had rendezvoused at Sinope, 
which was said to be full of Turkish soldiers, ready 
for embarkation — that others were marching from 
Sivas, and that the Sultan had said to the English 
Elchi Bey (Lord Ponsonby) that the ships might wait 
for them, as there were two Englishmen in Circassia 
keeping alive the spirit of the natives. Lastly, it has 
been said that Ibrahim Pasha is marching towards 
Georgia to attack the Russians ! The fleet at Sinope 
has eventually dwindled into two or three ships sup- 
posed to be men-of-war having been seen there ; and 
the naval demonstration at Pshat has shrunk into a 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



217 



three-decker with seven red flags, said to have been 
seen there, and to have fired forty guns as a salute. 
The military news from the latter place may turn 
out a Russian ruse. The above specimens of " latest 
news" may serve to show that there is here no need 
for newspapers to keep awake the interest of the 
public by playing with its hopes and fears. 

Shamuz gave us this evening a ludicrous account 
of an attack on Sukum Kaleh, in which he once 
shared ; and of the predicament he and his country- 
men found themselves in when they had gotten 
within range of the guns of the fortress, rolling great 
circular paniers filled with sticks and earth before 
them ; and discovered, to their dismay, that these 
moveable ramparts afforded no protection against the 
cannon-balls ! Eventually, however, they stormed 
the ramparts, and captured the fortress. The con- 
versation having subsequently chanced to turn upon 
the practice of kidnapping, and the admiration address 
in that exploit attracted, we thought it necessary to 
show the light in which almost all the rest of the 
world viewed such exploits ; when Shamuz explained 
that he spoke of "bygone things, with which they 
should no more be reproached, than Turkey should 
for disorders in her administrators which have been 
remedied.' , But he admitted that captives are still 
occasionally carried off from among those provincials 
who have submitted to Russia. 

The thermometer, yesterday at mid-day, stood at 
?8° ; to-day at 79° ; and at midnight at 64°. 

Sunday, 23?'d. — Our stores, like our knowledge, 
are supposed to be equally various and inexhaustible, 



218 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



A beautiful daughter of the Prince of Janat is very 
ill with inflammation of the face ; and to-day he has 
sent a messenger to request advice ; and, among 
other things, fifty drachms of sugar, besides pens 
and sundry colours for writing a charm for her cure. 
Luckily I had it in my power to comply with all his 
wishes ; and to send him, in addition, medicine, and 
some tea. 

Thermometer to-day 80° ; wind as usual easterly. 

Monday, 24*tk.— Besides our Georgian, Greek, 
Turkish, and two Circassian hired, and many casual, 
attendants, there are three, in particular, of our host's 
establishment whose service appears to be devoted to 
the guest-house at present ; and I have never in any 
country experienced (male) service more unexcep- 
tionable in all its prime qualities — honesty, cleanli- 
ness, regularity, respect, and attention. In most of 
the other larger establishments we have visited, I 
have observed the upper servants to be generally such 
as one would hire almost at first sight. 

This day has been as yet the hottest we have 
experienced. At noon, in the shade, with a northern 
exposure, the thermometer stood at 871°, and in the 
sun at 115°. I did not, however, find it oppressive, 
for there was, as there generally is, every day, a fine 
breeze from the east, which is succeeded, as is also 
usual, by a breeze from the west, that sets in almost 
immediately after sunset. The thermometer now 
(midnight) is 69°. 

Tuesday, 25tk. — I had just been discussing with 
Mr. L. the expediency of inducing the chiefs to 
establish a telegraphic communication between this 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 219 

place and Pshat, for the purpose of giving notice — 
by means of a fire or fires on the hills — when the 
Russians left that place, and of the route they took ; 
when we were informed that a method of communi- 
cation had been agreed upon by means of musket- 
firing. The Russians have been now about seven 
weeks at Pshat : it puzzles us a good deal to discover 
what their purpose in remaining there so long can 
be ; for the sod-walled fort they have thrown up is, 
in point of size, inconsiderable, and they have not 
erected any barracks or other buildings. Mr. L.'s 
idea is, that the expectation of the arrival of the 
English fleet has forced them to alter their plans — 
mine, that they w T ait for the corn and hay being 
stacked, that they may destroy them more easily; 
while our friends the Circassians do not appear to 
bother themselves with speculations, happy, as they 
are, at being left unmolested to get in a very abun- 
dant harvest. I have been pleased to learn that 
many of them have adopted the plan of send- 
ing their corn to places of concealment in the 
hills. 

After many strenuous efforts to persuade the chiefs 
to get a permanent force sent into the field, we found 
ourselves compelled to give way to their view of the 
matter, viz., that it should not be attempted till after 
the harvest has been secured, as the destruction of 
provisions — by a great drought three years ago, and 
the subsequent burnings by the Russians — has been 
so great that the people cannot listen at present to a 
call for contributions. This inaction has been to us 
exceedingly irksome, and is rendered more so by the 



220 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



dearth of credible intelligence as to what is going on 
in Europe ; but it appears unavoidable. 
Thermometer at noon 84°. 

Wednesday, 26th.— Wind N.W. Ther., noon, 80°. 

Saturday, 29th, — During the time we were at 
Adughum, and its neighbourhood, I observed the 
Armenian and Greek merchants, concerning the seizure 
of whose goods I have formerly spoken, hanging on 
about the councils held there ; and I supposed that 
they were only urging their plea for redress for the 
detention of their property, which redress I had 
promised to endeavour to procure them, whenever 
some more important affairs were arranged. But 
having recommended that their affairs should for the 
present be left in the state in which they were, and 
that arrangement having appeared to be acquiesced in ? 
it did not occur to me that anything would be done 
with regard to the portion of the goods still remain- 
ing in Anapa. I supposed that they would the more 
readily leave these where they were, after having 
experienced the seizure of the rest. It appears, how- 
ever, that they had calculated differently (probably 
feeling greater security from the presence of us 
Englishmen), and had been busy urging for permis- 
sion to bring the rest of the goods out of the fortress. 
This permission, after much debate among the mem- 
bers of seven or eight societies, was at length granted 
them ; and either then, or at a subsequent meeting, 
some Circassians of good character were appointed 
to accompany them, and see that no improper com- 
munication with the Russians took place. All this 
we learned only on Wednesday last ; and next day 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



221 



word came that a body of Circassians had assembled 
in the vicinity of Anapa, for the purpose of seizing 
these goods, because they thought permission to bring 
them out should not have been granted. This news 
annoyed us exceedingly, as proving the want of unity 
of opinion, or, what we still more feared, the absence 
of sufficient respect for the decisions of their chiefs 
and elders, whose supremacy it appears to us so 
desirable to establish, and, if possible, increase. We 
determined therefore that one of us should go imme- 
diately to the judge of this district, Mehmet ErTendi, 
(who had authorized and perhaps participated in the 
former seizure,) to intimate our disgust at the intelli- 
gence we had received, and the necessity we should 
find ourselves under of quitting this part of the 
country if it proved true, and the chiefs were unable 
to enforce redress ; convinced, as we should then be, 
of no security for strangers existing here. We 
judged it most expedient that both of us should not 
go upon this business, lest the excursion might be 
misunderstood, and amusement be thought its object. 
Mr. L. undertook it, and next morning one of the 
servants who accompanied him returned to request 
that I would join him immediately. I set out, not 
knowing whether war, politics, or pleasure, were to be 
my occupation. A ride of two or three hours, in the 
direction of the sea-coast and Anapa, brought me to 
a picturesque lake (called Abrar) of about two miles 
long and one broad, and surrounded by pretty high 
wooded hills, in a hamlet, on the side of one of which 
I found Mr. L., the guest of Ali-bi, who received me 
very kindly, and had been the cause of my being sent 



222 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



for, as he wished to have a visit from us, which he 
said he would have solicited sooner had he been 
ready to receive us. He apologised for the indifference 
of his guest-house, which was but a make-shift for the 
time, as the Russians had last year burned his whole 
establishment, corn, &c. Nevertheless, he told us if 
we chose to remain with him till the spring, he would 
be happy of our company, and could afford to kill a 
sheep for us every day. He is a tall, boney, mild- 
looking, but rather plain, elderly gentleman, with a 
grizzled beard, which he said was black when this 
Russian war began, wishing it to be understood, no 
doubt, that it had prematurely lost its native hue ; and 
in fact whether it be age or care that has plundered 
his small stock of beauty, he is, confessedly, one who 
takes a deep interest in the welfare of his country ; 
and, as Sefir Bey's locum tenens, has stood most faith- 
fully at his advanced and dangerous post, remaining 
almost always in his own neighbourhood, to encourage 
the people to maintain the contest, and treating with 
contempt all the brilliant offers the Russians have made 
to seduce him, which was the cause of their having sent 
an expedition for the express purpose of burning his 
hamlet. As to the merchants' affair, it turned out 
that none of their goods had been plundered, but some 
individuals had taken the Armenian's horse from him, 
immediately on his coming out of the fortress. 

Among the individuals said to be implicated in 
the transaction is our lively old friend Subash. 
This report was — on his account and owing to our 
fondness of him— extremely vexatious to us, and 
as we were desirous of immediately learning how 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



223 



far it was true, we sent our Turk to tell him that if 
he had been concerned in the affair, he must clear 
himself of it or renounce our friendship. Osman 
was further desired to proceed to the hamlets of 
Hadji Ismael, Mensur, and the chiefs of Shapsuk, 
and to tell them how strong were our feelings in 
regard to this affair, and how desirous we were that 
they should exert themselves to prevent the disgrace 
and injury likely to result from it. He was desired to 
tell them, in addition, that the time having now 
nearly arrived at which it had been said that the 
securing of the harvest would enable the chiefs to 
enter with more spirit and chance of success upon 
the measures we had proposed to them, we begged 
they would fix a day for holding a large congress on 
these measures, and detain Osman until they could 
send word by him of the day they agreed upon. 
Ali-bi expressed himself very strongly in regard to 
the threatened seizure of the goods, saying that if 
such an infraction of the decision of a council were 
permitted, it would induce him to quit the country. 
In order to prevent it he had, on Mr. L — 's arrival, 
sent off toward Anapa a young Turk (his most con- 
fidential dependant) with precise and peremptory 
instructions on the subject. The impolicy of the 
decision of the council — at a time when the mass of 
the people is suffering such privations from want of 
trade — is shown by this result ; yet I am in hopes to 
find that the contravention of it has been got up 
by a few isolated and powerless individuals ; and that 
the good sense of the majority will support the exe- 
cution of the decision of the chiefs and elders. 



£24 RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 

It is to be remarked, in favour of these provinces, 
that although the hereditary chiefs have in a great 
measure lost the power their ancestors possessed, and 
that the people are thus so far without prescriptive supe- 
riors, being swayed only by those who have acquired 
influence on public opinion, that influence has not, in 
any one instance that we have observed, been accorded 
to an individual who did not deserve it on account of 
his superior experience, wisdom, energy, and general 
integrity of character. All these leading men also are 
advanced in years ; wealth seems really to lack here 
its usual consideration. It ought also to be remarked, 
that although there is here no prompt executive, and 
although the punishments inflicted are the slow results 
of the decisions of trial meetings (such as I have 
described) called for the purpose of judging an accu- 
mulation of offences (small as well as great), there is 
no instance, so far as I can learn, of anything like 
brigandage existing, notwithstanding the destitution 
to which many have been reduced by this long 
war. Theft is of frequent occurrence, but when 
discovered it is, as I have shown, severely punished ; 
and it is only in a remote neighbourhood, and 
when adroitly executed, that it has, or rather had, 
the same tolerance among the Circassians, that it 
had, less than a century ago, among our own 
Highlanders. Armenian and Turkish merchants 
—attended only by their own few attendants — 
traverse the country in all directions with large 
stocks of goods, and never experience either theft or 
violence. 

On the northern side of the way to lake Abrar, 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCA SSI A. 



225 



the mountains are barren, and their surface whitened 
by calcareous stones and ridges ; while those to- 
wards the south have a deep rich soil, and are clad 
to their summits with luxuriant trees and herbage ; 
and these more fertile mountains seemed to extend all 
along the coast. Through the glen of the lake run 
— almost due north and south — strata of the same 
stone (not thick) with intervening beds of schist ; 
and some of these strata (as on the Semez hills) are 
nearly vertical, 

I shall here venture, though with great diffidence, 
a little resume of my geological observations en route. 
In this neighbourhood are rocks of the super-medial 
(with some evidences of the superior) order, having 
strata of shell and coarse limestone, sandstone, beds 
of marl and lime in a state of decomposition, calcare- 
ous schist, and argillaceous and bituminous shale. To 
the north are some salt springs near Adughum and 
Vastoghai. To the southward I have found a hard 
chalk ; but as yet I have not seen either flints or 
gravel in that direction. Flints are found, I am 
told, near Adughum. A lime-stone of a light drab- 
colour, containing here and there veins of calcareous 
spar, is, I believe, the predominating stone through- 
out the mountain range between the vale of Anapa 
and that of Pshat. Behind Ghelenjik, and to 
the south of Pshat, are beds of ironstone, accom- 
panied by limestone, sandstone, argillaceous shale 
and calcareous schist. To the N. E. of Pshat is 
a mountain in which are very spacious caverns 
or excavations, called by the Circassians " the 
mountain of lead ;" but no mining operations 

VOL. I. Q 



226 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



have been carried on there within the period of 
the oldest traditions of the country. I hope to 
visit it soon, as well as some hot sulphureous 
springs, three days' journey from Semez, towards 
the east. 

On the coast, a little to the south of Jubghe, 
two series of strata form an obtuse angle, the one 
dipping towards the north-west and the other to the 
south-east. The latter have in general an inclina- 
tion of thirty to forty degrees ; but every variety of 
angle and contortion is to be seen, as at Aguadshe, 
where a thin upright stratum of sandstone presented 
at a distance the appearance of giant hurdle work. A 
little to the northward of that place, at Mesghahu, is 
a bed of rich ironstone deposited in a basin of sand- 
stone. About Subesh appears to begin the medial 
order of rocks, what I saw there of the mountains 
being composed of clay slate in a high state of dis- 
integration, and there being, a little to the northward 
of that, at Sukukh, unequivocal evidences of coal. 
At Mama'i I found the beach encumbered with great 
blocks of limestone and reddish sandstone # . I am 
told that, about forty-five miles to the southward 
of Mama'i, porphyry and the primitive or inferior 
rocks of the central range present themselves, abut- 
ting on the sea at Ghagra, and are capped with snow 
almost throughout the year. 

To-day it is again cool and agreeable, as the wind 
is northerly, and the thermometer at noon 73°. 

* It was told me subsequently that the Russians of the fort of Sutsha 
(about two miles southward from Mama'i) had discovered coal there, 
which they used for fuel. 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



227 



This afternoon arrived old Subash, with the 
promptitude of innocence and friendship. We re- 
ceived him at first a little coolly, supposing him 
concerned in the attack on the Armenian, but he 
proved an alibi, having been at a marriage at the 
time. Our reconciliation was therefore most cordial, 
and was sealed by a friendly embrace. He said 
he had felt much shocked at the imputation. " To 
what purpose," said he, <e should I, an old man, 
wealthy enough and without family, make myself 
enemies by participating in so disgraceful a trans- 
action?" He had come immediately to clear his 
character, although he had thereby missed his 
opportunity to take part in an expedition of one 
hundred men, who intended to attack the Russians 
while cutting the grass around their establishments 
near Anapa. 

Shamuz has entertained us again this evening 
with some of his war-stories, but they fall from him 
incidentally and unobtrusively, like all the rest of 
his lively and interesting conversation. Taken ( all 
for all,' I have not yet seen his match in this country. 
His aspect blends, most harmoniously, venerableness 
and integrity, with mildness, intelligence, and viva- 
city, and such appears to be his character. I have, 
moreover, frequently observed the strength of his 
mind, in the equanimity he preserved at the recep- 
tion of both good and bad news, which excited and 
depressed those around him ; and his bravery and 
generosity are equally admirable. But I am forget- 
ting his story. He says that, some years ago, he and 
a few others crossed the Kuban on an expedition 

Q 2 



228 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



against the Russians, when they were attacked by 
superior numbers; and one of their party, a very 
brave chief, fell shot through the neck. The wound 
appeared mortal, and as it was impossible for them 
in their haste to transport his body across the 
Kuban, they left it concealed among the long grass 
and reeds on the banks of the river, bringing away 
his arms and his horse for his family. His family 
had deplored his death ; the females had performed 
the Circassian wake (which clamorous ceremony 
resembles the Irish one), and a great assemblage of 
his friends were receiving compensation beforehand 
for their prayers for his soul in an abundant feast, 
when they were scared from it by the apparition of 
the lamented chief himself, in ghastly guise, his 
clothes torn and bloody, and his throat rudely 
bandaged. After convincing them he was not his 
ghost, he narrated to them that, on recovering 
his senses, he found himself alone among the reeds, 
and all his arms gone except his knife, with 
which he cut up his clothes and stanched with 
them the bleeding in his neck ; he then swam 
the river, and with great difficulty regained his 
hamlet ! 

The thermometer now (at midnight) stands at 
58°. 

Monday, 3\st. — Yesterday we were invited to go 
down to the valley, to be present at the commence- 
ment of the hay harvest of our host and the prince, 
who farm the grounds of the latter in partnership, 
Shamuz having been obliged to remove his farm 
stock and utensils from his estate near Anapa. We 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



229 



found some sixty to seventy men assembled, and 
busily employed mowing and singing a lively song, 
which they intermitted on our arrival, and set up 
sundry wild cries to frighten our horses and give us 
an opportunity of showing our management of them. 
A party of them then rushed upon poor Luca, and 
pulling him from off his horse, carried him off in 
triumph as a prisoner to be ransomed. We bargained 
to exchange a sheep for him (according to the usage 
in such cases), and a fine fat one was soon produced, 
to contribute, with a quantity of honey we had 
previously given for boze, to the feast of the day. 
This feast is all the compensation given for the day's 
work, and is the means adopted to procure assist- 
ance by all who have more hay-harvest work than 
their own servants can perform. The scythes were 
little more than half the length of ours, and most of 
them had been ground to the hack-hone, A great 
deal of work was done ; but, to my eye, in a very 
unworkmanlike manner ; for, instead of beginning 
at one side of the very large breadth, and cutting 
down regularly and steadily to the other, the mowers 
roamed in parties over the ground, and attacked, 
according to their fancies, the thickest masses of 
grass, as if they had been so many Russian ' corps 
d'armee,' and prostrated them with great despatch, 
amid shouts and songs, but leaving all the corners 
untouched. There were only two or three who 
mowed with something like an ample English sweep, 
the rest seemed rather to be killing weeds than cut- 
ting pasture. Most of the grass here is exceedingly 
rank and coarse ; and, in many places, it has been 



230 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



entirely supplanted by other herbs, particularly a 
long stalky one (about eight to ten feet high, with a 
light blue flower, a species of chicory), of which the 
horses are very fond. Both blue and white wild 
clover are occasionally to be seen. The grass is left 
on the field as it is cut, and next day I saw part of 
it in haycocks. 

In the evening Mr. L.'s Greek arrived from Pshat, 
and reported that the Russians had set outforTshopsin 
six days ago, when some fighting took place, and 
sundry were killed and wounded on both sides. The 
Circassian telegraph must therefore have been asleep, 
or its intelligence withheld from us, lest we should 
again become impatient. On learning this news we 
told Shamuz, that we cannot consent to remain 
longer in inactivity ; and that, unless Osman bring 
us word of a day being fixed for a congress, we shall 
proceed to the vicinity of the one Russian army or 
the other, to see what can be done with the people 
of these neighbourhoods. Our host replied in terms 
that showed he was ashamed of the inactivity of his 
countrymen hereabouts, and said, that he should be 
ready to accompany us, his own affairs being about 
finished. 

This evening there are reports from the south 
also, that the Russians have been obliged to send 
back the Georgians and Azras, because they fired 
in the air ; and that they have not got a fort 
erected, as they were attacked incessantly by the 
Circassians. 

Wednesday, 2nd August.— Osman returned to- 
day from his errand to the chiefs of Shapsuk, but the 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



231 



result is not satisfactory. Most of the chiefs were at 
a distance from home, engaged in the trial of a de- 
linquency, of the grade of 200 oxen ; and those he 
saw, instead of having fixed a day for a congress, 
said, that in a week or so they hoped to get some- 
thing agreed upon in that respect. As little good 
seemed likely to result from such a message, we came 
to the determination that the time had now arrived 
when it was necessary for us to make an extraordinary 
effort to rouse the people of these provinces from the 
lethargy into which the gloomy state of their national 
affairs, and their dependence upon foreign aid, seem 
to have plunged them. We therefore addressed a 
letter to the chiefs of the two provinces, stating that, 
up to this time, we had always entertained a hope 
that we might succeed in inducing them to put 
in execution the advice given them three years 
since by their best friend, Daud Bey, to unite their 
forces and give them effect by placing them under 
the management of an established government of 
some form or other; but that as the harvest- 
time, for which we had been desired to wait, had 
arrived, and seemed to have produced no change in 
their disposition, we had now become convinced 
that it was against their inclination to take any 
step towards the accomplishment of these measures, 
and that they preferred trusting the cause of their 
country to the course of events ; that it therefore 
had become our duty to lose no more time in inacti- 
vity, but to proceed to other parts, in accomplish- 
ment of the objects that had brought us to the 
country. 



232 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



Luca has gone with this letter, and his instruc- 
tions are, to communicate it to the chief judges 
of Notwhatsh and Shapsuk, and to request them to 
intimate its contents to the chiefs. He is directed 
also to request Tughuz and some others to accompany 
us on our departure, which is fixed for this day- 
week. 



LETTER X. 



RUSSIAN PLOT— ANOTHER CONGRESS— THE KUBAN 
— RETURN TO SEMEZ— ANOTHER CONGRESS— AN 
ENVOY AT A LOSS. 

Semez, Tuesday, Sth August, 1837. 

My dear -. On Thursday last we saw, in 

the course of our daily ride down to the bay, a small 
three-masted Russian vessel riding above the middle 
of it, thus obliging us to proceed more expeditiously 
than usual to our bathing-place, for fear of being 
fired upon. In the evening we learnt, with surprise, 
that she had sent a boat to the shore, and intimated, 
by means of an interpreter, to some Circassians on 
the beach that the crew had nothing but black bread 
for five months past, and that if they could have 
some sheep, eggs and butter, they would gladly pay 
well for them. The Circassians replied that they 
could not give them the provisions till they had got 
the permission of the two Englishmen, but that if 
they would come ashore next day they had no doubt 
they could obtain for them what they wanted. 
Meantime we were told the Circassians were making 
arrangements for capturing the boat and her crew, 
and had made use of our names merely to gain time. 

We feared that blood might be spilt to no pur- 
pose, and in an affair not creditable to our friends, 
and were therefore prepared to go down to the bay 
on Friday forenoon, and dissuade the Circassians 



234 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



from the attempt, when we were detained by the 
arrival of Ali-bi, who came, in consequence of the 
public letter we had written, to endeavour to prevail 
on us to remain, till he and some others made an 
attempt to get a congress called together, and the 
" wholesome" measures we recommended carried into 
effect. This visit was just over, and I had gone 
out for a few minutes, when some cannon-reports 
alarmed our hamlet ; and by the time I got back to it, 
all the horses about the place were mounted and 
gone, and our host, another old man, and a lame one, 
were all the males to be seen. They dissuaded me from 
following the rest, who soon re-appeared and reported 
that the attack on the Russian boat had taken place, 
but had been defeated in consequence of the prema- 
ture appearance and firing of some of the Circassians 
who were in ambush: they however consoled them- 
selves in their disappointment by the persuasion that 
they had killed or wounded all the Russians in the 
boat but one, as he alone remained above her 
gunwales after their firing, and rowed it off to the 
ship, which had previously weighed anchor and 
approached the shore to protect it by firing her guns 
upon the Circassians. 

We received this news rather gloomily, as proving 
that disgraceful and perhaps fatal effects had resulted 
from the want of our interference. But we have 
since had reason to believe that the Russians little 
deserve our sympathy ; for although they were thus 
so cruelly brought in sight of the mutton and then 
thrown back upon their black bread, it is the conviction 
of our host that the marks which Mr. L. and I subse- 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



285 



quently found set up upon the beach (a large board 
erected there, and some poles and bushes on a hillock 
above,) must have been for their use ; and that they 
were in communication with somebody on shore, 
whom they had found means to corrupt. We infer from 
this, that the want of provisions was a mere pretext 
for getting intercourse established with those on shore 
for some ulterior purpose ; and it is rather important 
to us, in a personal point of view, that these marks 
were at the end of the road by which the Russians 
could most easily, and without being met by any 
one, approach this house from the bay. In conse- 
quence of this discovery a guard has been placed on 
the bay at night to endeavour to detect the traitor. 

Shamuz, speaking of the late reforms in Turkey, 
expressed his fears that they had come too late ; and 
he inquired whether the former Turkish practice of 
putting to death the younger sons of the imperial 
family existed in any part of Europe ! He says, that 
as that practice is contrary to the precepts of every 
religion, the disasters of Turkey may, perhaps, in part 
be ascribed to it. He is a favourable specimen of 
Circassian intellect. 

Shortly after Mr. L 's arrival, we jointly pre- 
sented to the Circassians some 1400 lbs. of lead (for 
bullets) that came in his vessel, and not having 
heard anything of it, we began to fear it had gotten 
into bad hands. We have just learned the contrary. 
About a third part was sent to Ardler (or Arduwhatsh, 
as the Circassians call it,) to be divided among the 
warriors of the south ; and the rest was divided with 
scrupulous impartiality among the inhabitants of these 



236 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



two provinces. Two okas and a half fell to the share 
of this district ; and those who have larger muskets 
get an extra portion. 

I have been mortified to learn that it is doubtful 
whether the provinces that had combined to refuse 
recruits to the Russians will now stand by that 
engagement. Besni is said to have given way, and 
others it is feared will follow the example. On the 
other hand, the Abazaks have intimated to the people 
of these provinces, that their territories shall be 
plundered, and their children carried off, if they 
comply with the Russian demand. This change 
may be attributed in a great measure, I believe, to 
the hopes our arrival created not having yet been in 
any way realised. 

Our letter to the chiefs soon produced effects. 
Visits from Mehmet Effendi and Ali-bi were its first 
fruits, and subsequently others have come to beg 
that we will defer our departure, and to promise that 
endeavours shall be made to assemble a respectable 
congress, and get our proposed measures carried into 
effect. The adoption of these measures being, in our 
eyes, by far the most important step that can be taken 
at present, we have consented to prolong our stay, 
and see the results of the promised endeavours. 

Thermometer at noon 86^. 

Thursday, 10th August. — To-day, one of the 
Russian deserters from Anapa has, in fulfilment of a 
promise of some standing, been brought to speak with 
us. He was one of the Anapa agricultural colonists ; 
and by his account the scheme has proved a second 
" New Harmony," or Imperial man-trap. About 2000 



RESIDENCE IN C1RCASSIA. 



237 



peasants were brought to the colony amid splendid 
promises of wives, lands, houses, implements, and 
cattle, that were to be given them ; and such was the 
picture of hope held up (by agents and advertise- 
ments), that many slaves fled from their masters to 
this Muscovite " El Dorado," where they were to be 
partners with their Emperor, and to be speedily led 
by his paternal hand to opulence and ease. But alas 
for the results ! Wives were not forthcoming, except 
for a very few ; the cattle were plundered, and them- 
selves kept in continual alarm by the Circassians. 
Out of 2000, there were 1600 taken for soldiers (on 
the plea that they had deserted from their masters), 
and the rest who are not married, fearful of a like 
fate, are making their escape as fast as opportunities 
offer,- — and whither ? into Circassia ! and this all 
within a year ! what a fearful and instructive peep 
into the Russian world ! 

Osman, who has been towards Pshat, brings word 
that Williamineff has sent to the Zazi-okus to say 
that he is not going to attack Jubghe {this year, he 
should have added), and that his orders are to retrace 
his steps, so soon as he has erected a fort at Tshop- 
sin. I thought this a good opportunity to point 
out to the Circassians what has been their master- 
error, and therefore told them that whether the 
General speak truth in this instance or not, it shows 
his knowledge of their besetting weakness — a separa- 
tion of interests — and his desire to profit by it. If 
Williamineff do not go to Jubghe, it must, I think, be 
the presence or expectation of our fleet in the Black 
Sea that makes him desirous of not being far removed 



238 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



from the garrison of Ghelenjik, and his line of retreat 
by the forts on the Abun. 

Since Wednesday last, the thermometer has ranged 
from 82 to 84° at noon. This has been the hottest 
day, the thermometer rising to 96° in the shade, with 
a northern exposure, and 124° in the sun. The sky 
has been clear, and the wind as usual easterly and 
strong. 

Friday, Utk. — At 8 a.m., the thermometer in 
the shade stood at 7®h an d at noon at 81°. 

Word has come that the Russians of Anapa have 
revenged themselves for the Circassian forays by a 
sortie at break of day, with two pieces of cannon. 
They burnt or destroyed the effects of a dozen or 
fifteen families in their immediate neighbourhood, 
and captured about .500 head of cattle. But a few 
Circassians assembling suddenly, with Ali-bi at their 
head, attacked them on their retreat ; and, although 
they could not save the cattle, they killed five or six 
soldiers— none of themselves having been hurt. 

Saturday 12th. — Thermometer at 8 a.m. 64°, 
and at noon 77°. The wind for these two last days 
has been very strong from the eastward, in fact half 
a gale, with a cloudless sky, which appears strange 
to us Britons. 

The news of to-day are from Tshopsin, and in 
effect that the indefatigable Guz Beg, with a band 
of Shapsuk men, have attacked the Russian foragers, 
killed and wounded many, and taken a number of 
prisoners, besides many stand of arms. Among the 
prisoners was a Russian officer, who reports that the 
Russian army since the commencement of the cam- 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



239 



paign, has lost by desertion, death and disease (in 
addition to the slain) about one thousand men. De- 
sertion is on the increase (eleven came over together), 
and dysentery exceedingly prevalent. That disease 
must, I think, be attributable to their provisions, 
and partly to the late fluctuations of temperature 
and their want of shelter, as there appears to be 
nothing to occasion it in the locality they are in. 

A small Turkish vessel was seen to arrive from 
seaward among the Russian vessels at Tshopsin, 
and soon after not only they, but those at Pshat 
and Ghelenjik, indeed all but one steamer, set sail 
during the night, and have not since been seen. We 
trust this movement has been occasioned by bellicose 
systems in England. 

Monday, 13th. — High wind from the eastward, 
increased probably by the great heat, continued all 
yesterday till the evening, and seems to have been 
still higher than I was aware of during the night, as 
I observed many branches of trees torn off and hay- 
cocks upset, &c. 

Some Turks from Trebizond say that, some time 
since, the Russian consul there bought such a small 
vessel as was seen to arrive off Tshopsin the other 
day, which so far confirms our supposition of its 
having been despatched by him. 

The getting together the proposed congress seems 
to have been up-hill work; but something has at 
length been accomplished, and we set out for it to-day. 
Shamuz has confessed — asking us first if we wished 
him to tell the plain truth — that his countrymen are 
in a state of great despondency ; and although death 



240 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



before surrender be their determination, yet their 
chief comfort has been in our remaining here so 
long, as it proved to them our conviction that Eng- 
land will not abandon them, 

Tshukhwps, Tuesday, 22nd. — On Monday week 
Mr. L. went to the hills above Ghelenjik for the pur- 
pose of seeing the state of the bay previously to our 
departing for the congress. He found there only 
one small vessel, which leads us fondly to suppose it 
possible that the rest may be gone to Sevastopol for 
greater security from the English fleet. 

On Tuesday we set out towards the rendezvous 
appointed for the congress ; and having met on the 
way a man sent to apprise us that it was deferred 
for two or three days, to admit of the arrival of some 
persons who had been sent for to Abazak, we proceeded 
more leisurely and made more stoppages by the way. 
Our first was about ten miles from Anapa, where we 
learnt more particulars of the Russian foray, and 
sudden, short, and destructive it seems to have been. 

Our host there had to be sent for on our arrival, 
as he was one of thirty engaged at that time keeping 
watch over the Russian movements^ — " shutting the 
stable," &c; for two persons only had been on guard 
before the foray. 

Passing next day within six miles of Anapa, we 
had a very good view of it from a hill, and saw eight 
vessels, two of them large and the others small, lying 
under its guns. We then crossed some hills covered 
with oak copse, and came upon another large valley 
bounded by similar low, rounded, copse-clad hills on 
all sides ; but with an opening to the north-west 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASS1A. 



241 



which discovered the waters of a large lake, called in 
Turkish " Ak-Deniz," or the White Sea ; beyond 
which appeared the hills of the Isle of Taman; 
and in this direction, it was said, the Russians had 
lately constructed a fortress called Jamatia. This 
valley, called Hokhoi, did not appear cultivated, (it 
was ravaged last year by the Russians) but hay had 
been made throughout the whole extent, as appeared 
from the infinity of haycocks ; and it was said to be 
inhabited by the Circassians even up to the Russian 
fortress. We put up at its eastern extremity, at a 
house around which I counted about sixty others. 
Here there was some objection to receiving us (the 
host of the best house being from home) and we had 
set forward to seek other quarters when a man came 
bawling after us. As he brought us back I saw the 
hospitable hostess running to and fro, carrying cush- 
ions, &c, into the guest-house. It turned out that, 
on having heard who we were, she became fearful of 
the displeasure of her husband if she did not receive 
us. 

Next day, (Wednesday) crossing the wooded hills 
to the north, we traversed in a north-east direction 
another large valley called Vastoghai, bounded by 
lower hills. Much rich cultivation appeared in this 
valley, and it is further graced by several stately 
clumps of trees, especially on the banks of the small 
stream of the same name, on which, among other 
hamlets, we passed one Sefir Bey had possessed, but 
which is now all in ruins, as the Russians left it. 
Following up the course of the stream toward the 
south-east, we came to the base of the high wooded 

VOL. I. R 



242 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



hills that form the eastern boundary of the valley of 
Anapa, and of the one to the north-west of it*, and 
arrived at a hamlet very picturesquely situated, where 
the forlorn wife of Sefir Bey, and her two daughters, 
have found food and shelter from a liberal and lively 
old man of the middle class. He is seventy years of 
age, but appears fifteen years younger, and his thick- 
set short form, and hale look, give promise that for 
many years to come he will still be able (if permitted) 
to carry on his forays against the Russians, from 
which it would appear the greater part of his substance 
has been derived. He has crossed the Kuban, from 
which he is distant only twenty miles, annually and 
almost monthly, for the last fifty years ! Lately he 
was one of thirty who captured 105 Russian horses, 
and I saw two of six which he had lately taken alone 
from five Russian peasants. Nor are his exploits 
merely predatory ; for he goes to the wars accom- 
panied by his five sons, (he lost another lately in an 
expedition across the Kuban,) the eldest of whom he 
obliged the other day to train himself by attacking 
alone two out-posted Cossacks. The young man slew 
one, and captured the other. It was only last year 
that Zepsh (the father) was engaged in an affair with 
the Russians, near Anapa, when Ali-bi of Ozerek 
was made prisoner, and carried off by a party of 
twenty. Old Zepsh followed them alone, and, con- 
cealing himself, and watching his opportunity, till 
three of the party with their prisoner were separated 



* The former is called Hokhoi-suk little, and the other extending to 
the Kuban, Hokhoi-shko great. 




J£ Wkrren..Utk fi-vnt x Sketch, by J/*' ' -SimmsliatiS £ell / Ejq r MivtJU^hrZtdt. rl Ulh*d»een. 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



243 



from the rest, he rushed upon them with drawn sabre, 
and killing or wounding them all, mounted Ali-bi 
(who had received seven wounds) behind him and 
galloped off ! This extraordinary feat I have heard 
told by many. 

On Friday evening I took a ride with him, to see 
the site of a famed ancient fortress. I found it 
situated on the top of one of the highest and steepest 
hills, and it seems to me probable that the situation 
had been chosen by the Genoese (for our host attri- 
buted the fort to the Franks or " Genoese") as com- 
manding a road through the hills from the plains of 
the Kuban to Suguljak andGhelenjik — the best places 
for shipment. Towards the upper part of the hill 
two ridges were shown me, as having been walls with 
gates in them ; and on the summit, where an excel- 
lent well is said to have existed (not long since), I 
found a pretty large space surrounded by a mound, 
but of what the mound was composed I had no 
means of ascertaining, for the whole was overgrown 
so thickly with trees and underwood, that I had diffi- 
culty in making my way, almost on all-fours, over 
but a small portion of it. Zepsh insisted, however, 
that in his father's time there existed a good stone 
inclosure, within which they used to secure their 
cattle and horses ; for a portion of the hills, which is 
unwooded, has very rich grazing upon it. A won- 
derful story is told of the taking of the castle by 
some redoubted champion, who entered it alone 
sword in hand, after his cannons had breached its 
walls. But who he was, or whence he came, was 
unknown. The tradition appeared to me too vague 

R 2 



244 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



to be followed up, so I inquired rather after what 
had been found on the hill. Swords of a great 
length, and coins of gold — said to resemble exactly 
the one I obtained at Semez, excepting that they 
were larger — were mentioned as having frequently 
been found; but they had all long since been dis- 
posed of, and my only hope is in the promise Zepsh 
made, to keep for us English any coins that may be 
found hereafter. 

The Russians lately attempted a passage from 
Anapa by these hills, and had ascended their west- 
ern acclivity when they were repulsed, and many of 
them killed, by Zepsh and a handful of his neighbours. 

On Saturday the 19th, I was summoned to the 
long promised congress, and had to attend it alone ; 
Mr. L. being unfortunately confined to the house by 
indisposition. It was held at a hamlet about a couple 
of miles from that in which we were staying, and was 
attended by about a hundred and ten individuals. 
Till dinner-time the day was spent in deliberations 
among themselves. After a substantial repast for 
the whole assemblage, business again commenced, 
and an invitation was sent me to attend the meeting. 
I found it assembled around a tree, within whose 
ample shade and shelter (for it had rained hard) 
straw had been laid in a wide circle, as seating for 
the " members." A felt cloak having been spread for 
me, and an invitation to address them being given 
me, I said that many of those I saw present had been 
informed already of the measures we had deemed 
necessary for them to adopt in the present circum- 
stances of the country ; but having found such diffi- 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



245 



culty in getting some of those measures put in exe- 
cution, and so much time having elapsed, we had 
resolved to press them no further at present, but to 
limit our interference in their affairs to an urgent 
recommendation to them to employ the means they 
thought most effectual for bringing into the field a 
large force, provisioned for a month, which force 
could be apportioned as they thought best, both for 
watching the fortresses and preventing such disas- 
trous forays of the Russians as the one that had of 
late taken place near Anapa ; and for the purpose of 
harassing the army under Williamineff, and limiting 
its power to do mischief. I then told them that we 
greatly feared, from their protracted inaction, that 
despondency was widely spread among them, and I 
recapitulated the reasons against giving way to such 
a feeling, and the good grounds of hope that had 
lately been afforded them, by the various, yet in one 
respect corresponding, intelligence that had arrived 
from different quarters : all tending to prove that 
something was being done for them in Europe. 

Shamuz and Mensur were the principal respondents, 
who spoke to this effect : That our protracted stay 
among them had been of infinite benefit in sustaining 
their hope that England would yet befriend them, 
and the encouragement thence derived had, they 
said, been of more advantage to them than if they 
had received an auxiliary force of 2000 or 3000 men, 
or a ship-load of ammunition ; but whoever had told 
us there was despondency among them (on this head 
Mensur was particularly energetic) had falsely slan- 
dered them. That the harvest (a matter of great 



246 RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



importance) was not yet secured, and that when it 
was, they would prove to us whether their courage 
had abated or not, and that if necessary 15,000 men 
could be brought together at a few hours' notice. 
They then begged of me that we would not quit this 
part of the country at present, or at least for a short 
time, within which they said that the letters we and 
they expected would arrive and inform us what hopes 
they had from abroad * ; that if we felt any ennui at 
remaining too long at one place, every house was 
open to us, and all would be glad to do their best to 
entertain us. Sundry other civilities were added, for 
which I thanked them, and replied, that our con- 
clusion as to the existence of despondency was drawn 
from our not seeing among them any general prepa- 
rations to take the field ; and that as to any ennui we 
might have felt, it could only proceed from the same 
cause, as we were with a host who left us nothing to 
desire. [Some high encomiums had been passed 
upon him by the previous speakers.] That as they 
appeared to think our presence so beneficial, and 
promised to take more active measures shortly, we 
should comply with their request, and remain among 
them for the present. I then brought the parley to 
a close, and, as it seemed to me, amid general satis- 
faction, of which Mensur and Shamuz gave ine addi- 
tional assurance apart. Among other matters de- 



* It will be seen hereafter that these wily sages were keeping us in 
play until they had satisfied themselves, by correspondence with Sefir 
Bey, as to the source of a libel against us which had been written, in 
the Bey's name, by a wretch of the name of Michael, then his servant, 
and now Russian Consul, at Sinope. 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



247 



bated on this occasion, was that of the person brought 
before us at A bun-bash i, as caught in the act of 
endeavouring to get into the fortress of Anapa. He 
was also in attendance, having been all this time 
detained, as also his horse, arms, &c, as correspond- 
ence about him had been carrying on between 
the people of these parts and those of his province, 
Abazak. It appears that he is of a noble Abazak 
family, and has often been in the wars. One of his 
Russian documents was an attestation from the 
Russian Chancellery of his relationship to certain 
Tatar families in the Crimea, whose seals it bore ; 
and another a Russian passport to enable him (as he 
says) to visit his friends in that country. These 
were explained to us by a Russian captain of cavalry, 
(of German descent, in which language we conversed) 
who resides where we were, having deserted from 
Anapa on account of the degraded situation he found 
himself reduced to (on account of a duel with his 
colonel), and his despair of being able to improve it. 
But the most suspicious documents were two in 
Turkish — without seal or signature. — appointing a 
meeting between two individuals. His explanation 
of the whole might or might not be true, yet he 
deserved punishment for having broken a law of this 
province, which prohibits all intercourse with the 
Russians. But on the other hand was the danger of 
irritating his countrymen, who had sent an attesta- 
tion of his loyalty and respectability, signed by four 
judges. We therefore advised that he and his 
effects should be sent home, accompanied by a letter 
saying, that on account of the friendly relation be- 



248 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



tween the two provinces his punishment was left 
to his countrymen ; that it was hoped they would 
make it such as would prevent a recurrence of the 
evil ; and that they should be severely upbraided 
for the general laxity they displayed in regard to 
communication with the territories of the common 
enemy. 

Having expressed a wish to see the Kuban, we 
set out in that direction on the 20th, with a large 
escort, and crossing the fertile valley of Vasto- 
ghai, came to some equally luxuriant hills, on its 
northern side, which had latterly been cultivated 
by the 300 serfs of Sefir Bey, and had formerly been 
part of the territory occupied by those 10,000 
Noghais whom Russia compelled to return within 
her frontier, by carrying off in a foray a large pro- 
portion of their women and children, and refusing to 
return them except on that condition. I presume it 
was these children of the steppes who denuded this 
district of its trees, as none but sapling oaks, the 
growth of some ten years, were to be seen. Here 
and there, however, were abundant crops of millet, 
which the Circassians were reaping and carrying off 
in waggons, as soon as cut, to safer quarters towards 
the south. That afternoon we put up at a hamlet 
on the declivity of the wooded hills that form the 
southern boundary of the valley of the Kuban, from 
which we were distant only half an hour's ride, and 
could trace its course by its skirting of magnificent 
trees, through which, in its windings, a gleam of the 
waters shone out occasionally, Beyond these rose 
the Russian hills, of which more anon. Our hosts 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



249 



were four brothers relatives of Shamuz, and said to be 
uncommonly rich in flocks and herds. We were 
scarcely seated in their guest-house when a person 
brought in and laid before me a ferruginous mass of 
indurated clay, and of sea-shells in a high state of 
preservation. Being both in search of fossils, we 
eagerly inquired the situs of these the first we had 
seen, and learning that it was close at hand, we set 
out for it. It is an oblong hill with a surface of 
loose black earth, amid which the fossils spoken of 
are found in great quantities; and some hills to 
the eastward were spoken of as being still more 
prolific. We brought or! some of the best specimens. 

On the 2 1 st we rode about three hours to the east- 
ward, along the same oak copse-clad hills, to this 
place, the hamlet of Arslan (lion) Gheri, a relative 
of Mensur, and said to be quite as brave. On our 
way we diverged to the left to see the Kuban, and 
(as I hoped) to taste the water. But on reaching 
the summit of one of the highest neighbouring hills, 
we learned it was in vain to attempt getting a nearer 
view, as the river is fenced in to a considerable dis- 
tance by deep marshes, which we saw too clearly to 
think of penetrating them. Close to their verge, rich 
crops of millet were to be seen, upon which many 
reapers were busily employed, and the general culti- 
vation on the face of the hills seemed to increase as 
we advanced. But, on the opposite side of the river, 
nothing of the kind was visible, even with our tele- 
scope, save a few haycocks at a great distance, on the 
top of a hill. The country there, for twelve or 
fifteen miles, rises into a ridge of some three to four 



250 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



hundred feet in height, on the western part of which 
were some windmills, and not far from them, on the 
summit, a Russian fort. To the east of this ridge 
appeared a dead level, the varied colour of which gave 
some show of cultivation. 

The pleasure of this excursion was marred by my 
Georgian falling from his horse and breaking his 
arm. So soon as we got to our quarters, a surgeon 
was sent for (whose ragged dress gave slender indi- 
cation of the lucrativeness of his practice) ; and 
Mehmet Effendi (who also practises) and another set 
to work with their knives and soon produced two 
neat wooden cases for the arm, which was cleverly 
dressed with a long tight bandage, smeared with a 
mixture of flour, the white of eggs, and salt. 

Our host here being accounted very rich, I may 
enumerate his stock, as a specimen of what obtains 
that consideration. He has upwards of seventy serfs, 
two to three thousand sheep, one hundred oxen and 
milch kine, and three to four hundred brood-mares. 
But it seems scarcely possible for one to become really 
very rich, so long as it is considered no shame for any 
one to ask for whatever he wishes, and a great shame 
to refuse his request. In this way we brought loss 
to our host, for one chief of our cortege demanded of 
him, and got, one hundred sheep, and another sixty 
sheep — but not for us. For a long time past we 
have bought sheep for ourselves at Semez, as we 
thought our daily mutton too heavy a tax on an in- 
dividual. 

Semez, the 25th. — On the 22nd, having declined 
(to show that amusement was not the object we came 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



251 



here for) an offer that was made us to jaunt about 
and be entertained at different houses, we proceeded 
on our homeward way to the hamlet of our friend 
Subash, in the vale of Anapa (or Hokho'i-suk) and 
there made a little detour to see a remarkable stone. 
This we found to be a fragment of sculptured marble 
about eight feet high, twelve or fourteen inches broad, 
and six or eight thick. The sculpture extends along 
the whole length, in five lines, one of which is an 
ample and very graceful wreath. The marble stands 
erect, as a grave-stone, and around it are many graves, 
marked by common stones. It might be difficult to 
find whence it had been brought to its present site ; 
but it seems most probable that it formerly graced 
some edifice of the Aspourgianoi, who dwelt on the 
north side of the southern mouth of the Kuban, or 
of the Greek colonists of Phanagoria. 

On the 23rd we returned to Semez, and all our 
late pleasing visions were dispelled by the arrival of 

Mr. L 's Greek from the southward, where he 

had seen a Turk, who arrived by the last vessel from 
Constantinople, and reported, that there are no 
English ships of war in the Black Sea ; that they 
had come to the Dardanelles, when the Sultan said 
it was unnecessary for them to proceed further, as 
the dispute between England and Russia would be 
otherwise arranged ! This may serve at once as 
proof of the great interest that was excited in the 
East by the capture of the Vixen, and as a specimen 
of the stuff we are tantalised with from day to day, 
and which might make one almost believe that the 
souls of a whole race of English daily newspaper 



252 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



scribes had transmigrated hitherward. To add to 
our vexations it is said, that letters for us arrived by 
the vessel just spoken of ; that is some three weeks 
ago ; and yet we cannot get hold of the man who is 
said to have them, although we have twice sent after 
him. It has seemed strange, that neither of us has 
ever yet received a letter since our arrival in this 
country, and the dilatoriness of him who now has 
those in keeping, gives some clue to the mystery. 

At a marriage-feast Georgi attended the other day, 
between Pshat and Ghelenjik, the greater number 
of those present went to an ancient cross, and, 
taking off their bonnets, kissed it. It is said 
that but a small proportion of the people are as yet 
circumcised Mussulmans. I am inclined to believe 
this, from the small proportion I see say their 
prayers. 

Semez, Wednesday, 30th August. — The day 
before yesterday, Prince Atsha'igag-oku, of Psadug, 
arrived here, accompanied by almost all the leading 
men of these two provinces ; and when they left us 
yesterday, after a deal of interesting conversation, it 
seemed as if they had taken all our strength with 
them ; for we were both unwell. 

About three weeks ago, we sent this prince — at the 
recommendation of our host — a friendly message and 
some presents, on account of the important services 
he had rendered these two provinces for some years 
past. And, having learned a few days back, that he 
had arrived at Adughum, we immediately sent Selim 
Bey, and one of our servants, to express the pleasure 
we should have in seeing him either here or else- 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



253 



where, before he returned home. The Bey brought 
word he would come here, and accordingly, the day 
before yesterday, we had just swallowed the last 
mouthful of our dinner, when those who dined after 
us had their repast abruptly interrupted, and their 
tables borne off amid suppressed cries of. " The prince ! 
the prince ! " We found him a mild, handsome, and 
very intelligent-looking person, of middle stature, 
and some ten or fifteen years past the meridian of 
life. His deportment shows more high -breeding than 
w r e have seen in this country, and seems to prove him 
born to command. Infinitely more respect was 
accorded him both by the chiefs and inferiors, than 
we have seen paid to any other individual. Indeed, 
the Prince of Janat, whose descent is highly distin- 
guished (Sultanic), seemed to be the only one who 
felt at liberty to be seated in his presence. His 
object in coming here appeared to be threefold ; 
Imo, to encourage the people of these provinces to 
persevere in their warfare ; 2do, to take counsel 
respecting the answer he and his countrymen should 
make to a Sultan, and a Circassian noble in the 
Russian service, who have been sent on a coaxing 
mission to the Eastern provinces on the Kuban, to 
obtain, in return for many fine promises and fair 
speeches on the part of the Emperor, an address to 
him on his expected visit to the Russian frontier ; 
and, Stio, to see, and converse with, us English- 
men. But his visit is not avowedly political, for 
fear of his being embroiled with his Russian neigh- 
bours, and his conversation with us was apart and 
private. 



254 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



We think we see in the above-mentioned second 
item, about which we have received a letter from the 
provinces of Hatukwoi, (a translation of which I send 
you,)* proof of apprehension on the part of Russia 
of European interference in behalf of this country, 
which she fain would avert by producing such a 
document as is here spoken of. And in support of 
this supposition, the prince reports that it is said in 
Russia, that a congress of sovereigns is about to be 
held in Europe. We therefore strongly conjured him 
— by his hopes of yet rescuing his province from her 
present precarious position — to urge his countrymen 
to refuse, at all hazards, any such document as the 
Russian emissaries sought to obtain from them ; as 
it would place them irretrievably in their power. 
We are about writing a letter to the same effect to 
the chiefs of Hatukwoi. 

Since the prince left us, we hear he has powerfully 
seconded our efforts to rouse the people hereabouts to 
action, and that an extraordinarily great congress of 
the chiefs of these two provinces, and of Abazak, for 
concerting war operations on a large scale, is to be 
held forthwith. We are to set out for Adugtmm 
to-morrow to be present at it. 

Prince Pshugui stated here, that a person from this 
valley was latterly in his neighbourhood, and having 
been guilty of some misconduct, he got the Russians 
to imprison him ; that he has subsequently learned 
that, for some time past, this person, (whose house 
is not far from that which we inhabit) has acted as 



* See Appendix. 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



255 



a spy for the Russians,* that he had arranged with 
them for our capture, by means of the vessel I have 
spoken of (as having had her boat's crew attacked), 
and others which were to have followed her, and 
commenced operations by dealing for provisions with 
the people ; and that he put up marks in the bay 
to direct these vessels to the landing-place, which 
afforded the readiest access to our quarters ! 

In the cortege of the prince came an elderly judge, 
who deserves the " passing tribute" of a line. While 
his occupation of interpreter lasted (till very late) he 
kept his place at the further end of the room ; but 
no sooner had his chief, and the other guests, com- 
posed themselves to rest, than he came forward to 
the side of my divan, where I was reading, and made 
me give him a lesson in the English alphabet, stick- 
ing at it most perseveringly, till he knew the pro- 
nunciation of each letter. He then set to work to 
copy their forms, and when (about two in the morn- 
ing) I asked him if he ever slept, he replied, " you 
ought not to mind sitting up, as this is the first time 
I have ever seen Englishmen." He is said to be a 
very clever person, and to have taught himself 
Turkish reading and writing almost without assist- 
ance. 

On parting next morning, the prince exchanged 
coats with me, telling me that his was woven and 
made up by his wife. It is profusely braided with 
silver lace. We presented him with a handsome 

* His offence was in all probability committed in anticipation of 
being sent across the Kuban, (near which the prince lives) to the 
Russian prison. 



256 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



double-barreled fowling-piece and a bow, much to the 
gratification of all the other chiefs present, who 
seemed glad to be aided in rewarding the services 
they had received of him. 

Adughum, Mh September. — On Thursday last, 
we set out at an easy rate for this place, and had 
again an opportunity of traversing and admiring the 
beautiful banks of the Adughum, and of regretting 
the want of good fishing-tackle to take some of the 
very large trouts which abound in that stream, and 
which the Circassians have no other way of coming 
at than with rifle-balls ! Rest, rest ! perturbed spirit 
of Walton ! 

A great part of the millet harvest is over, but it 
will take ten days or a fortnight to finish it com- 
pletely. 

The congress took place yesterday in a stately 
wood hard by. It was attended by almost all the 
leading people of these two provinces ; but delibera- 
tions were changed in their nature, and abbreviated 
by a report of a vessel having arrived at Shepseghu 
with two Englishmen, powder, balls, &c, which have 
been confirmed from various quarters. The result 
of the debate was that Shamuz and one of our 
servants should proceed immediately in quest of the 
Englishmen, to see if they have brought any news 
or letters, and to invite them and the chiefs in the 
south to another congress, to be held this day week. 
It was suggested that one of us should go to meet 
our countrymen ; but we have in hand matters of 
import (an interview with Prince Pshugui, and the 
finishing and despatch of our letter to Hatukwoi) and 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



257 



we have moreover, very little faith in the correctness 
of Circassian newsmongers. We deemed it therefore 
most expedient to send in the meanwhile. 

I must not omit the closing scene of the Congress, 
as it is characteristic and common, although I have 
not happened to witness anything of the kind before. 
The conclave was still constituted, and formed an 

oblong square, when a man on Mr. L -'s tall 

horse (as I thought) appeared at one end of it, and 
commenced speaking, or rather bawling, from a most 
powerful pair of lungs, with much action and the 
most admirable volubility and earnestness. What 
under heaven was the cause of his emportemerit I 
could not conceive. He seemed to speak sometimes 
at us, which made me think he was laying claim to 
the horse, as having been stolen from him. Then 
there was an occasional smile on the faces of some of 
his countrymen, which made me think he might be 
a madman whom they were humouring (as Mussul- 
mans do). Again, the remarkable rapidity of his 
delivery gave him the appearance of being an im- 
provisator exhibiting for our entertainment. All 
these surmises were however sadly wide of the mark, 
as I learnt at the close of the long address that it was 
a premeditated effusion of piety, patriotism, and 
gratitude ; and the occasional " amens " of the 
auditory, if I had happened to have noticed them, 
would have told me as much. 

Addresses of this kind are delivered at the close of 
every congress, in which matters of national import 
have been debated. A loud-voiced ready speaker is 
selected, and the elders instruct him as to the sub- 

TOL. I. S 



258 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



jects that must be impressed upon the minds of those 
present ; with which are combined an invocation of 
blessing upon the Padisha, an assurance of the bless- 
ing of martyrdom to him who falls in battle, &c. 
On this occasion the extraordinary subjects were, an 
exhortation to each one to be watchful of the conduct 
of those in his neighbourhood* ; and to call upon the 
people generally to " show hospitality and kindness 
to these strangers," who have come from afar, " and 
subjected themselves to privations they are unused to 
for our good only." 

Seme%, Friday 6th. — On Tuesday, having sent 
word to the Prince Pshugui, that we were about to 
set out for home, he, and an immense cortege of 
chiefs, with their followers, met us in a field on the 
way, where he, the Prince of Janat, and we — having 
gone apart for a consultation— seated ourselves on 
the withered grass, and had a long conversation, in 
the unmitigated blaze of the mid-day sun, which 
made me think what sort of a thing a stroke from 
him might be. 

The prince told us he also was returning home, 
having heard of the arrival at Psadug, and the 
illness of his brother-in-law, a Crimean sultan, from 
whom he expects full accounts of what is going on in 
Russia, and he promised to communicate them to 
us. The purport of his speaking was to prove to us 
that it was from necessity only that he was on his 
present terms with the Russians, his country being 



* It had been reported that some persons had lately gone into the 
fortress of Anapa for salt, thinking themselves justified in doing so, in 
consequence of the permission given to the two Sinope merchants! 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 259 

small and open, and the villages so large (some of 
400 houses), that much more mischief might be done 
there than here in a short time ; that he was more- 
over not yet sure how far he could reckon on support 
from the Abazaks on their southern frontier, as they 
had not yet generally taken the oath they had pro- 
mised to take to that effect. He seemed anxious 
also that his attachment to the cause of independence 
should be made known in England, and that we 
should believe that his present visit to these parts 
was caused solely by his wish to see us, and consult 
with us and some of his countrymen about their 
common cause, and not from any wish to get presents 
(of which by the way he has got an immense number, 
horses, coats of mail, bows, &c. &c.) He also ex- 
pressed an earnest wish that we would pay a visit to 
his province as soon as possible, assuring us of the 
warmest reception, and of our effecting much good. 
On our part we renewed to him our expressions of 
confidence in the favourable disposition of England 
toward this country, and urged the great necessity 
there was of preventing the chiefs of his province and 
those of the adjacent provinces, of whom testimonials 
of their allegiance to the Emperor were now required, 
granting any such. We promised a visit as soon 
as possible, and to urge the Abazaks to conclude the 
desired convention with him and his neighbours. I 
trust he may not suffer for his intercourse with us, 
for his past endeavours to serve his country have 
brought upon him, seven times, the penalty of 
Eussian hostility. His hamlet is immediately oppo- 
site the fortress of Yekaterinodar. 

s 2 



260 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



Thursday, lkth. — Shamuz returned this day week 
without accomplishing his errand. He met on his 
way a brother of Zazi-oku M eh met, who had been 
to the south, and seen the latter who came from 
Constantinople with the Englishman (one it seems, 
and a Frenchman, an interpreter, I presume), the 
powder, balls, &c. ; and our old host was so glad to 
hear this confirmation of so agreeable a piece of news, 
that he hastened back to communicate it himself ; 
and his breast being opened by joy, he made full 
confession of his love for us, exceeding, he says, that 
for his own children. 

As there was now no reason to doubt the intelli- 
gence in question, Mr. L— — , with Ali-bi for an 
escort, set out last Saturday to find our countryman 
wherever he may be, and I remain here — somewhat 
against my will — to humour the people in their 
great anxiety that we should not both leave them at 
present. 

Word was again brought me the day before yester- 
day that the Emperor is expected forthwith on the 
frontier ; and that the Circassians of Psadug, Hatu- 
kwoi, Temegui, &c, had again refused to give the 
Russians troops. It was further stated that many 
persons from these provinces had gone to Ardler to 
join in the war against the Russians, who are said to 
be in a dreadful state from sickness and fighting, 
which it is said never ceases. A deserter from Anapa 
has just reported that 4000 of that army are already 
" hors de combat" 

19th. — The Circassians had two envoys at Constan- 
tinople for some time, one of whom was to have come 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



261 



with me, but missed his passage, remained there 
some time longer, caught the plague, and died. The 
other, who lately arrived shortly before the English- 
man, has been here ; having come some thirty or 
forty miles to get prompted by me as to what he shall 
say to a large meeting which is convened for the 
purpose of examining him on oath. Poor fellow, he 
seems to lack invention (which he appears to wish 
me to supply), and has very little to ground it upon; 
having been expelled (Luca tells me) from Sefir Bey's 
for quarrelling with the other envoy, and thus placed 
out of the way of learning what was going forward. 
This his pride will not let him own; and thus he has 
been pestered for some time past, and eaten up, by 
having twenty or thirty persons at his house at one 
time cross-questioning him incessantly about news, 
and putting him (who has nothing to tell) to his oath 
occasionally. He prepared to depart to his task very 
reluctantly ; for I counselled him to say nothing but 
what was true, and not to imitate his many lying 
predecessors. I gave him no presents to speak well 
of us, about which some hints had been thrown out ; 
but when pressed by him once more for suggestions, 
I told him he might say, that since the capture of 
the English vessel the principal negotiations had been 
carried on between London and St. Petersburgh, and 
had consequently been removed from the sphere of 
his observation ; and that he might bear testimony 
to the increased respect which the English had of 
late enjoyed in Constantinople, and of the friendship 
which prevails between the Turks and them. These 
hints re-assured him a little. 



LETTER XI. 



A CIRCASSIAN " LIKE- WAKE " — ARRIVAL OF ANO- 
THER ENGLISHMAN — THE EMPEROR AT GHELENJIK 
— THE RUSSIAN ARMY RECROSSES THE KUBAN — 
DETECTION AND PUNISHMENT OF SPIES — ^PREDICA- 
MENT OF THE EASTERN PROVINCES — ANTIQUARIAN 
RESEARCH — FEAST OF MEREM — GEOLOGY. 

Semez, September 25th, 1837. 

My dear — — . Kerim Gheri, a very valiant 
Vork (or noble) of this valley, crossed the Kuban 
a few days ago, with a small party who swam the 
river during the night, towing after them a small 
boat containing their arms. They had not been 
long landed when they were surrounded by a Rus- 
sian ambuscade, that poured a hot fire upon them. 
They forced their way, nevertheless, through the 
Russians, and recrossed the river, and were on their 
way to their homes, when it was discovered that 
Kerim was dangerously wounded by a ball through 
the body, of which he had not said a word. He died 
at Ad ugh urn (not half-way home), and was there 
buried. He was much esteemed, and great numbers 
of persons from all the country round — those of this 
place among others — have been to his hamlet, 
which is hard by, to take part in the c< wake," or 
lamentation for his death. 

I shall embrace this occasion to give you an 
account of the ceremonies in use on such occasions. 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



263 



When, as in this case, the body is not forthcoming, 
a cushion is placed on a mat at the side of a room ; 
upon and around it are the clothes of the deceased; 
and, on the wall immediately above, are suspended his 
arms. The room is filled with the females, and the fe- 
male relatives and friends of the family, seated : and, 
at the door, stands the widow erect. At each side of 
the cushion are seated the daughters or some young 
female relatives. On the green before the door the 
men assemble. One of them approaches the door, 
uttering a wailing cry, which is responded to by the 
females inside, who rise while he enters softly with 
his hands over his eyes, and kneels before the cushion, 
placing his forehead upon it. The young girls on 
each side assist him to rise, and he retires. The 
rest follow, one by one, until the whole have per- 
formed this ceremony ; but the old men generally, 
instead of uttering the lament, speak some short sen- 
tence of consolation or endurance, such as, " it is the 
will of God." This larger assemblage of men and 
women lasts for three days ; but the females of the 
family and its immediate relatives must be in attend- 
ance to receive mourners in this manner for a fort- 
night ; and the clothes and other relics of the de- 
ceased remain as described until the greater funeral 
repast, which is given either six months after, or on 
the anniversary of the death. The very poorest 
never omit this entertainment; but the rich give other 
repasts at intervals of a week, a fortnight, and forty 
days after the death. If the clothes of the deceased 
were not good at his death, new are made, and the 
relatives contribute different articles, such as shoes, 



264 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



leggings, leather drinking-cups (for travelling). &c, 
which are laid with the rest of the things on the 
mat, and are subsequently distributed to the priest 
of the neighbourhood and those who assisted at the 
ceremonies. The family can retain nothing except 
the arms which the deceased bore and the horse he 
rode, which, out of respect to his memory, is kept 
six months in the stable and well fed during that 
time. When one has died a natural death at home, 
his body is immediately washed, enveloped in new 
white cotton or linen cloth, and buried within three 
or four hours, the immediate neighbours assisting in 
the first portion of the lamentation. If he was killed 
in battle (that is a bondjide battle, not a mere ex- 
cursion for booty ; for a decided line of distinction 
is drawn), he is interred in the clothes he was killed 
in and without washing; it being supposed that in 
this state he will be at once received into paradise, 
as having fallen in defence of his country ; but if he 
survive his wound some days, he is presumed to 
have again sinned (perhaps in regretting his wound, 
or expressing impatience under it), and must, there- 
fore, be washed and dressed for his immortal journey. 
The same ceremonies are performed at the death of 
women and children, but the assemblages are less 
numerous. 

In the beginning of this month wild grapes (small, 
red, and pleasantly flavoured) were ripe, and mostly 
eaten by the birds. I have no doubt the grape might 
be advantageously cultivated here. I have also found 
a wild hop, which elsewhere is said to be abundant : 
its bitter seems strong and good. 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



265 



The Turkish title of Bey is given to very few, and 
those only of Sultanic or Pshe (princely) descent ; 
while the Vork (nobles) are spoken of by their indi- 
vidual names only. In addressing even princes, their 
title is seldom made use of. 

26th. — We have had our equinoctial gale, and 
that pretty severely. It commenced ten days ago, 
with two days of very heavy rain, and twelve to four- 
teen degrees diminution of temperature at mid-day : 
that is, from 80° and 82° to 68°; and the thermo- 
meter has since kept falling, till within the last three 
days that it has stood at 63°. On almost every alter- 
nate day there have been showers, which have tho- 
roughly moistened the parched and cracked soil, and 
spread beneath us a lively green carpet worthy 
of spring. The hills on the opposite side of the 
valley also look somewhat better for this change in 
the weather ; and much need they had of it, for so 
singed were they by the long drought that their 
stony backs shone out, and made them look not 
unlike so many great mangy dogs. 

I have added a Polish servant to our establishment, 
and am highly pleased with the acquisition, as he is 
an active, tidy, obliging young man. It is five years 
since he deserted from the Russians ; he speaks Cir- 
cassian fluently, and is now busy learning French. 
He is a great favourite among the natives, whom he 
has often joined in battle. His master had freed him, 
and would have sent him to Constantinople ; but that 
the Turks who took him there might sell him. He 
has therefore confided him to us, by which it would 
seem that we infidel English are more trusted 



266 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



than the others. He (Stanislav) says, that, after the 
revolution, the Russians sent from Poland 32,000 
boys of from ten to twelve years of age ; and Luca 
says there arrived in Georgia about a similar number 
of young Poles. This is the effectual way to weed 
out patriotism ! 

Our equinoctial gale has blown from the west ; and 
one day it blew so hard that ten Russian transports 
were stranded : four near Anapa, five to the north 
of it, and one near Pshat. Some of these vessels were 
plundered by the Circassians ; others the soldiers of 
the forts protected. A man from Vastoghai, just 
arrived with Sefir Bey's wife on a visit to us, reports 
that the gale two days ago was such as had never 
been experienced before in that quarter : men with 
their horses having been blown down, houses over- 
turned, all the stacked corn blown away, &c&c. 

On the 20th, the Russian army returned to Ghe- 
lenjik from Tshopsin. They performed the jour- 
ney in five days, and almost without opposition, the 
patience of the Circassians having been exhausted in 
waiting for them. A Russian deserter from Doha has 
just been here, and reports that William ineff is about 
to return by the Abun, across the Kuban, to meet 
the Emperor ; and that he takes with him seven or 
eight thousand men. His army (this man and 
others say) consisted originally of 12,000, about 
1000 of whom have been killed by the Circassians, 
and 1000 to 1200 wounded. Of these, one-half may 
be again fit for service. About 250 men are left in 
Pshat, and 500 in Tshopsin ; and fourteen pieces of 
cannon have been placed in the former, and twenty 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



267 



in the latter, which is much the larger fort. All 
these cannons (and some bombs also) are of very large 
calibre. There has been much disease in the army, 
but not many have died of it. This man, like the 
rest, describes the soldiers as highly discontented ; 
and, he says, many prefer death to their ordinary 
treatment, which they have learnt to be " worse than 
that of dogs in Europe." 

28th. — At length I have had the pleasure of receiv- 
ing letters from England ; but the pleasure is damped 
by my learning the disastrous decision come to by 
our government in regard to the capture of the Vixen, 
which, if communicated to the Circassians of this 
neighbourhood, must be told them with caution, to 
prevent the discouragement such news is likely to 
create at this crisis. 

England has thus, in some measure, ratified the 
treaty of Adrianople, by which Russia assumed a 
right to the whole of Circassia, in violation of the 
solemn and reiterated engagements she had pre- 
viously come under to England, France, &c, not to 
make any accession to her territory, nor to seek any 
exclusive advantage. The power of England must, 
I fear, come into general question, and still more the 
existence of the spirit of honour that once animated 
her counsels. A fatality seems to attend all opposi- 
tion to the genius of Russia, which turns the delibe- 
rations of even our " potent, grave, and reverend 
signors " to her advantage. 

Shamuz has returned after a fortnight's absence, 
and he adds to my depression of spirits by stating, 
that part of his time was unsuccessfully spent in 



268 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



endeavouring to raise a force to attack the Russians. 
The Russians, moreover, have established a trading- 
mart on the side of the Kuban, near the Abun, in 
Shapsuk, and have put in charge of it a renegade 
Circassian noble in their service, who, by presents, 
good bargains, and cajolery, is doing all in his power 
to seduce the people of that province, many of whom 
have listened to his seductions, and are crossing the 
river to trade at this mart. Emissaries from Russia 
are said to have been in this province, also endeavour- 
ing to detach the people from the national cause. 
Hussein, a respectable merchant of this neighbour- 
hood, has just returned from Abazak, and informs 
me that some of the people of that province having 
captured eighteen head of cattle in the Russian terri- 
tory, and driven them through Psadug, have been 
obliged by the rest to restore them ; in order to 
preserve the people of the latter province from a 
violation of their engagements with Russia. This 
incident may not be considered as a proof of a tem- 
porising spirit on the part of the Abazaks, who, our 
host says, remain stanch ; but it is a curious illus- 
tration of the strange division of interests which 
Russia has succeeded in introducing in these frontier 
provinces. But the worst news yet is a report made 
by Hussein, of his having met on his way four men 
from Tshopsin, with four Russian or Polish deser- 
ters, whom they w T ere taking to Yekaterinodar to sell 
to the Russians. Hussein remonstrated with them, 
but in vain ; they replied they wanted money. I 
immediately informed Shamuz of it, and told him that 
unless measures were taken forthwith to have these 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



269 



Circassians punished for a crime so fatal to the 
interests of the country, I should consider its cause 
hopeless, and act accordingly. He replies that, 
whenever the other Englishman arrives, a large 
congress is to be held, and something will then be 
determined on in regard to the punishment of these 
traitors. There are some bad subjects about Tshop- 
sin. 

30th. — Word having arrived that an emissary 
from the Russian general at Yekaterinodar has come 
to the northward of this, near the Kuban, and was 
inquiring particularly concerning our names, &c, 
our active old host has set out for that quarter to 
inquire into the matter. 

After the last taking of Anapa by the Russians, 
and the compulsory cession of it and Sujuk-kaleh 
to them by Turkey, the Circassians and Turks built 
a small town at the ruins of Sujuk-kaleh, in which 
there were all sorts of shops, to the number of 250. 
The Russians destroyed the whole by their ship- 
guns, about five years ago. 

Some particulars have been told me respecting the 
origin of Anapa. After the subjugation of the 
Crimea by the Russians, many of its inhabitants fled 
to this part of Circassia, and by their advice Sefir 
Bey's father determined to build a fort on his pro- 
perty. The locality of Anapa was selected for the 
purpose, and artificers were brought from Turkey to 
construct it. But the neighbours of the Bey violently 
opposed his project, and it was not carried into exe- 
cution without bloodshed. 

Sefir Bey began his career inauspiciously. His 



270 RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 

father died when he was young, and his uncle, under 
pretext that his deceased brother had married below 
his rank, and that the ancient and pure blood of the 
Zahn-okus was in danger of contamination, sold the 
young Bey as a serf for only 100 measures of grain. 
But the retainers of his father sometime afterwards 
procured his restoration, and reinstated him in the 
possessions and honours of his ancestors ; and it is 
said that, although no one serves his family at present, 
his adherents and serfs will all return to their alle- 
giance whenever he returns to live among them. 
His mother belonged to the second class of vork 
(nobles), — that is, those ennobled by the princes, an 
act which is thus performed. The prince, in pre- 
sence of witnesses, presents the individual with a 
horse, a sabre, two oxen, and sometimes a few serfs, 
at the same time declaring him a vork. This class 
is not numerous, nor can its rank be transmitted by 
descent. 

Sefir Bey's lady, as I said, honoured us with a 
visit the other day, and remained a night at the 
family-house. The morning after her arrival she 
sent me word that she would have come to see me in 
the guest-house, but that she heard I was much 
engaged with my letters. This message I did not 
receive until after her departure, and was thus pre- 
vented from replying to it. I am told she is very 
grateful for some coverlets we have presented to her, 
as the nights now get cold, and she had scarce any 
covering for herself and her daughters. Nothing is 
more valuable in this country at present than cloth- 
ing, except perhaps powder and lead. 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



271 



The princess is of a very eminent Noghai family 
of princely rank, who I presume are prevented from 
doing anything for her by the Russians. You may 
recollect my mentioning that 10,000 Noghais had 
formerly crossed the Kuban, and settled themselves 
in Hokhoi in Sefir Bey's neighbourhood, but were 
forced back again by the Russians capturing their 
wives and children. Shamuz says that anciently the 
Noghais possessed all this north-west part of the 
country, the Circassians occupying the districts to 
the south and east of them *. 

The atalik of Sefir Bey's son (who is about twelve 
years of age) accompanied the Hanun (princess) here, 
and slept by choice on a stage erected between two 
trees in front of our house, which was a favourite 
locality with many both by day and night during the 
hotter weather. His horse, which he had tied up 
almost literally under his nose, was next morning 
missing, and could not be found ; so that he had to 
walk home. The supposition was that it had been 
stolen ; horse-stealing being the most common crime 
in this country. How far this conjecture was correct 
I know not, but the horse has since been recovered. 
This reminds me however to tell you the usages in 
the case of such a theft. The host of the visiter is 
held bound to pay for the horse, if required to do so. 
If the thief be discovered he is compelled to make 
restitution, and is fined to the value of six hundred 
piastres, which are the perquisite of the host, if he 
have paid for the horse. If the thief be found on 



* Elbruz is here called Noghai-Hihkha, the mountain of the Noghais. 



272 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



the horse, his arms and everything he has on the 
animal become the property of the person who seizes 
him. This liability of a host extends to all kinds of 
property, but it does not appear to be always en- 
forced ; and six hundred piastres is the general 
amount of fine, no matter what be the value of the 
article stolen. 

An atalik not only feeds, clothes, and educates his 
pupil gratuitously, but gives him a horse and arms ; 
in shorty he appears to stand in every respect in the 
stead of the father, and to enjoy more regard than he 
does. Of this I have seen some evidence in the con- 
duct of the youngest son of this family, rather a 
fiery youth. The atalik trusts for his recompence 
to the spoil his foster-son may take in battle, and to 
the gratitude of himself and family after the tutelage 
is over. It lasts six or eight years. Much of course 
depends upon the discrimination of the father in 
selecting ataliks for his sons. I have not heard of 
any misconduct on their part; but a noble at Adughum 
who had lost his voice and applied to me to restore 
it, attributed his misfortune to the poverty of the 
atalik he had been placed with, which prevented his 
being properly clothed. Daughters are sometimes, 
but not commonly, placed out in this manner for 
their education. 

Friday, 6th October. — On Tuesday last we had a 
heavyish gale of wind from the N. E. ; and on that 
and the following day there was a considerable 
reduction of temperature, the thermometer standing 
early in the morning at 37° instead of 57° to 59°, as 
it did in the end of September, and at mid-day at 



RESIDENCE IN C1RCASSIA. 



273 



48° and 49° instead of 61° to 64°. To-day we 
had 54° in the morning and 61° at noon. Since 
my arrival in the month of April the only danger- 
ous gale on the coast has been that of the 24th of 
September. 

On Tuesday evening Mr. L. returned, bringing 
with him our lately arrived countryman, whose 
appearance makes me hope to find him an agreeable 
acquisition. He seems to travel for the excitement 
of adventure, as his interest in the cause of the 
country — though, of course, considerable, otherwise 
he could not have incurred the danger of visiting it, 
seeing he, too, was chased, and hyfour Russian vessels 
— cannot, as yet, be so intense as that of Mr. L.and my- 
self. I hope we shall find some relief in the greater 
buoyancy of his spirits. His reception in the south, 
where he landed viz. ; at Aguia*, was by no means 
encouraging ; for the people in that neighbourhood 
could not comprehend the object of his visit as ex- 
plained by him, and pertinaciously insisted, in spite 
of a letter of introduction he had from a Turkish 
gentleman, that he must either be an English ambas- 
sador or Russian spy. They even went so far as to 
intimate their determination to detain him, until they 
wrote about him to Constantinople. Nor could they 
be convinced that the powder and lead this gentle- 
man had brought with him, for the purpose of pre- 
senting to persons from whom he might receive civi- 
lities, were not sent by him as presents from the 



* Query — if this be the Achaici vetus of Major Rennet's map ? 

VOL. 1. T 



274 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



governments of England or Turkey. Upon Mr. L. 
arriving, and finding him in such a dilemma, it was 
agreed that our countryman had better assume the 
ambassadorial character thus forced upon him, for 
which the circumstance of the news of the king's 
death having been brought by him, in some sort paved 
the way. An address was therefore drawn up in 
Turkish announcing this (for the Circassians) truly 
melancholy intelligence, and informing them of the 
consequent and inevitable postponement of the con- 
sideration of their cause in England, owing to the 
temporary suspension and reorganization of the 
government ; at the same time assuring them of the 
unabated interest felt in their welfare by Daud Bey, 
from whom they might expect to hear in due time, 
A congress of some seven or eight hundred was 
assembled, at which our countryman appeared in the 
costume of the Royal Edinburgh Archers, and the 
address having been read, it appeared to give general 
satisfaction. No further objection was made to Mr. 

■ 's proceeding on his way, and he received some 

pressing invitations from the chiefs in the neighbour- 
hood to pay them visits, which, however, temporary 
indisposition, his desire to proceed northward, and a 
sense of what was due to himself, in consequence of 
his first equivocal reception, induced him to decline. 
As to his powder and lead, it was deemed inexpe- 
dient to combat further the conviction of the people 
that they had been sent for division among them. 
The congress was therefore permitted to take its own 
way in this respect, and the portion allotted by it to 

this province was all that Mr. brought away 

with him. 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 275 

Saturday, 7th. — Two Russian deserters and a 
prisoner, taken from Williamineff 's army, have been 
here, and they inform us that the Emperor and his 
son, on their way to Tiflis, have been at Ghelenjik, 
where they arrived in a steamer, and remained only 
two days. They were there on Tuesday last during 
the gale ; and, during their stay, a circumstance 
occurred which cannot, I think, but have results for 
this campaign favourable to the Circassians. Almost 
the whole of the biscuits and provender provided for 
the soldiers and cattle during the winter have been 
burned. How the fire originated we cannot learn ; 
but the soldiers say, that the general belief among 
their comrades was, that WilliaminefF himself had 
caused the biscuits to be burned, to prevent the 
Emperor seeing how his soldiers were cheated, by 
being furnished with bread mouldy and full of worms, 
and of which only half the just quantity per man was 
served out to them. These men say further, that the 
treatment of the soldiers of this army is so abomina- 
ble, that they had resolved, if the Emperor asked them 
any questions, to have cried out with one voice 
against it ; but no such opportunity was afforded them. 
The fire caught also the house in which the Emperor 
was lodged ; and, when the soldiers were endeavour- 
ing to extinguish it, his majesty said to them, 
" Never mind, my dear friends, it is my misfortune." 
Kind words and short commons ! He and his sons 
did not sleep again on shore ! They set sail for 
Redut-kaleh, and thence proceed to Tiflis. I 
presume they will return by Vladi-Kaukass, well 
escorted. 

T 2 



276 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



Immediately after the fire, Williamineff and his 
army marched out of Ghelenjik, for the purpose, it 
is said, of recrossing the Kuban, according to orders 
from the Emperor. They are said to be at present 
in Abun. 

When the news of the Russians having left Ghe- 
lenjik reached this, some youths of the neighbour- 
hood, to the number of six, made a party to go and 
have a shot at them. They returned on the evening 
of the same day, bearing the body of one of their 
number, a youth of eighteen years of age, who had 
just been married ! His father is a remarkably 
brave man. 

No provender has this year been laid in for the 
cattle of the forts of Abun and Nicolaefski ; and the 
speculation of the Circassians thereon is, that they 
are to be abandoned on account of the difficulty of 
provisioning them during winter. 

Friday, 13th. — Information has been received, 
that the Russian army has left Abun and recrossed 
the Kuban. It is to be hoped, and I think partly 
expected, that it will not be enabled to make good 
the loss of provision it has suffered so as to attempt 
another inroad before winter ; and during that season 
I conceive it impossible for hostilities to be carried 
on to any extent, owing to the impracticability of the 
roads for artillery. Such being the probabilities with 
regard to war, we are increasing our endeavours to 
preserve the country in its present condition (until 
we hear further from England) by the prosecution 
of spies and other traitors. The effects already pro- 
duced are, the detection and punishment of eight of 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



277 



these wretches ; and as the excitement is now con- 
siderable, and some hundreds are aiding in this 
salutary work, I think the evil will receive a timely 
check. The houses of the culprits have been burned 
and themselves exiled; their live stock and other 
effects divided among those who came to share ; and 
their families are to be " bought in" by the fraternities 
to which they belonged. The people of Shapsuk, 
too, have put an end to the Russian project of a 
trading mart on the Kuban, near Abun. 

The provinces on the Kuban to the east of Shap- 
suk ; viz. Psadug, Hatukwoi, Temigui, &c. are at 
present in a painful predicament — the natural fruits 
of their exposed situation and their temporising po- 
licy. Their chiefs were lately invited into the Rus- 
sian territory on pretext of a conference or some such 
plea, and then told they must stay to meet the 
Emperor and express their allegiance to him. This 
they refused to do as they had never become subjects 
of Russia, but had only made mutual engagements 
with her not to make war against each other, or 
violate their respective frontiers ; and Russian troops 
have not been permitted to occupy these provinces, 
or have any footing in them. To their remonstrances 
and demands to be allowed to return home, the only 
reply made by the commandant of the fortress of 
Yekaterinodar was, that he had been ordered to 
detain them. Their removal further into Russia 
was then talked of, and it began to be feared that 
they were about to receive the same treatment that 
the chiefs of Kabarda, &c. had undergone some 
years since, when they were similarly invited into 



278 



RESIDENCE IN C1RCASSIA. 



Russia, where they have been detained ever since as 
hostages for the tranquillity of their provinces ! The 
chiefs in question, therefore, resorted to a ruse ; three 
of their number made their escape and roused up 
the people to make a violent clamour about their 
dread of being attacked by the Abazaks, because 
their chiefs were in Russia to meet the Emperor. 
Upon this the chiefs renewed their remonstrances 
against detention, but the only reply yet given by 
the commandant is that he must act according to his 
orders. The objects of this gross and palpable 
treachery are so evident as not to require any elu- 
cidation ; but I hope we shall be able to turn it to 
good account against the Russians, not only in the 
belligerent provinces, but in those also whose chiefs 
have been now betrayed, who must disown any act 
or convention wrung from these leaders under such 
compulsion. 

Innumerable instances of individual bravery and 
heroism might be here collected, of these there is no 
want ; although there is no appearance of a principle 
of combination by which greater and more perma- 
nent results might be produced. I should not give 
you the following instance, but that the greater part 
of the transaction was witnessed by several people 
who happened to be on the banks of the Kuban at 
the time ; and that is an example of a desperate love 
of liberty, general among Circassians, of whom very 
few ever allow themselves to be made prisoners. A 
young man of Shapsuk, after killing or wounding 
several Russians in a late affair across the Kuban, 
was made prisoner and carried to Yekaterinodar* 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



279 



There he was questioned about, and frankly told, all 
the acts of hostility he had been of late concerned in, 
pointing out two of the soldiers he had wounded. 
He was threatened with death, fettered and thrown 
into a dungeon. But during the night he contrived 
to free himself from his irons, and to dig a hole 
through his prison wall, by which he got into the 
enclosure. This was surrounded by a wall and che- 
vaux-de-frise, which he surmounted by grasping the 
points of iron in his hands and thus making a foot- 
ing, from which he leaped down upon the outer 
ground. Here he was encountered by two sentries ; 
but snatching up a billet of wood that fortunately 
lay at hand, he felled one of the soldiers to the 
ground with it, escaped from the other, and ran 
towards the Kuban. On the way, three Cossacks 
attacked him, whom he kept at bay with his billet 
until he reached the river and plunged into it. His 
trials were not yet at an end, for some soldiers put 
off in a small boat in pursuit of him, nor would his 
diving have, in all probability, saved him, had he 
not succeeded in upsetting the boat. At length he 
reached the shore, but finding himself in Psadug — 
the people of which have made terms with the Rus- 
sians — he was so fearful they would capture and 
deliver him up, that he set off in the state of naked- 
ness, to which he had been reduced in his scuffles, 
towards his home, which he succeeded in reaching in 
safety. 

I think it possible it may be supposed in England, 
that as only two provinces of Circassia are in actual 
and declared warfare against Russia, some of th» 



280 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



others, especially those on the frontier to the east of 
Shapsuk, may in some sort be subdued and possessed 
by that power. No such thing ! the whole of Cir- 
cassia is at this moment de facto free and independent 
of Russia ; and in a condition to establish what 
government it pleases, and make treaties with what 
states it thinks proper. It has no Russian governor 
established within its territory ; no ukase or Russian 
edict is even attempted to be published to the people. 
Excepting along the military road by Vladi-Kaukass 
to Georgia (which bristles with forts, and for the 
protection on which Russia pays an annual tribute to 
the neighbouring tribes) no portion of Circassia can 
be traversed by a Russian, and even on that road a 
considerable escort of soldiery and cannon is indis- 
pensable. Notwhatsh and Shapsuk are the two 
provinces which at present carry on the war, partially 
assisted by the powerful province of Abazak ; but 
the only difference between these and the other 
frontier provinces is, that the latter have thought fit 
to enter into terms of mutual forbearance with the 
Russians ; in short Russia possesses not one foot of 
the soil of Circassia, except what she has obtained by 
force, erected forts upon, and continues to hold by 
virtue of her artillery, beyond the range of which 
none of her subjects dare venture except for hostile 
purposes. Let her be dared to the proof that any of 
these statements is untrue, and then will the effront- 
ery and falsehood with which she seeks to dupe 
Europe with regard to her possession of this country 
be exposed. 

Monday, 23rd.— I have just learned an incident 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



281 



which goes far to prove what I mentioned on the 
twenty-eighth of last month as likely to be the 
general effects of the abandonment of the question 

of the Vixen. Mr. says, when he was at Vona 

on his way here, his Dragoman, a Polish Tatar, and 
ardent friend of the English, was in a coffee-house, 
where sundry Turks assembled were informing one 
another that the Russians had taken an English 
vessel on the Circassian coast, and England had not 
dared to seek reparation ; when the Dragoman, a man 
of more spirit than veracity, started up and declared 
it was false, as the English had in revenge captured 
three very large Russian ships and carried them, 
crews, cargoes and all, to England ; expressing at the 
same time his surprise at the ignorance of these 
people in regard of this piece of intelligence. 

My countrymen having pledged themselves to join 
in the first regular enterprise against the Russians, 
whilst I have thought proper not to do so, I feared los- 
ing in the estimation of the Circassians, (although 
their elders had suggested to me the expediency of 
my not adopting a belligerent character,) and am not 
ill pleased to find a compensatory character grown up 
for me, which originated in my quasi-medical prac- 
tice, and search for fossils, plants, &c. ; but which 
has reached maturity, through my predicting the 
eclipse of the moon on the 13th, intelligence of which 
was sent about in different directions, accompanied 
by an exhortation to the people not to consider it as 
an unfavourable omen, which they would inevitably 
otherwise have done, in compliance with a belief 
general among Mussulmans. Although I have told 



282! 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



Shamuz and others that such fore-knowledge is 
acquired by calculation ; yet, as this passes their com- 
prehension, they found it more consistent with their 
ideas to invest me with supernatural powers — the 
first-fruits of which were thus exemplified. In the 
midst of a forest, which occupies the centre of this 
valley, is a very large mound or barrow of huge 
stones, conceived to be the tomb of some mighty 
chieftain of old, especially as the stones are said not 
to be of this part of the country. Some months 
since we were taken to see this tomb, and expressed 
great desire to have it opened; but we found tools, men, 
and inclination, all wanting ; and were told, more- 
over, a wondrous story of a former attempt on a 
small scale — which we saw had been made — when the 
men who were at work were terrified by strange and 
fearful sounds, and by one of them having his head 
turned round. In short, a Jin, or returned soul, was 
supposed to have its haunt there, and to attack those 
who dared to violate its dwelling. We therefore 
gave up the matter as hopeless, and should possibly 
have thought no more of it, had not the Circassians 
— emboldened, no doubt, by the result of my predic- 
tion of the eclipse — informed us they had made up a 
party to make another attempt upon the tomb, pro- 
vided I would promise to be present. I did so ; and 
a party of thirty or forty men assembled on the first 
day, and before I could get down two messengers had 
come to hasten my arrival. The scene which pre- 
sented itself would have made a good subject for 
painting. The forest waved above us with a strong 
wind, which moaned among the half-leafless trees, 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



283 



and added to the eeriness of the scene ; the work- 
men performed their labour in the silence of expec- 
tation, which was shared in by the spectators, who 
crowded round the edges of the excavation, and only 
intermitted their anxious gaze downwards by an 
occasional glance at the expression of my face when 
any piece of bone, great stone, slab, or trace of struc- 
ture, gave expectation of the feared retreat of the Jin, 
or of the locality of the hoped-for treasure. A group of 
smokers sat apart, beside a blazing fire among the 
tangled underwood and trunks of great fallen trees, 
and near them, tied to the branches, snorted our impa- 
tient horses. Directions were demanded of me as to 
where the opening should be made, and my opinion 
asked as to whether treasure might be expected to 
be found. Of this I gave no hope, as I had none ; 
but said perhaps some ancient arms might be dis- 
covered. I presume, however, they imagined my 
magic-experience not to be great as to treasure- 
troving; for, notwithstanding my discouraging prog- 
nostications, they worked for three days, and became 
so hardy, through my assurances and their own 
experience, that there was no danger, as to do with- 
out my presence on the third. The mound was 
excavated to its very base ; but all the reward it 
yielded was a nest of ground-squirrels (exceedingly 
fat), a snake, some bones, and fragments of vases of 
red pottery. The skins of the former I have pre- 
served among my collection of Circassian animals — 
chiefly birds. 

Monday, 23rd. — At this season, and for about a 
fortnight, is celebrated a very ancient festival, called 



284 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



Merem. Troops of young folks go from house to 
house in succession, and spend the night in dancing, 
singing, and regaling with boze, &c. Part of the 
ceremony consists in some of the company holding 
cakes, with cheese in them, which they wave about, 
while all shout out an invocation to Merem, begging 
her always to send them health, plenty, and happi- 
ness. It is in disuse in the north of Notwhatsh, 
excepting hereabouts ; but prevails to the south, and 
to the east. The Circassians here say it was insti- 
tuted at the time Christianity prevailed in this country, 
in honour of the mother of Jesus ! 

A Shapsuk man who has been to Psadug, and was 
requested to bring news, has arrived here, and brings 
intelligence of the release of the chiefs who were 
enticed across the Russian lines. There were about 
150 of them, and they have been detained nearly a 
month to meet the Emperor. William inefF, on his 
arrival at Yekaterinodar, used every argument to re- 
concile them to the trick that had been played upon 
them, but in vain. Prince Pshugui, who was the 
principal spokesman, in reply observed, that to meet 
the Emperor was not the object for which they had 
been invited, and that they were not prepared for it 
in any way. Williamineff said he would send for 
any horses, clothes, &c. ; but the prince remained 
firm in his demand that they should be released, say- 
ing, it was certainly in the power of the General and 
his army to detain so small a party by force, but if 
he did so he should find cause to repent of it. The 
liberation of the chiefs was the consequence ; but 
whether caused by the General's fear of provoking 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 285 

war in their provinces by their further detention ; of 
their doggedness and intractability forming a spec- 
tacle but little gratifying to his Majesty, or of the ex- 
posure of such malpractices to us meddling English- 
men, it were hard to discover. One thing is clear ; 
that it has been judged inexpedient at present to 
follow up with the chiefs in question the treachery 
and cruelty their countrymen of Kabarda formerly 
experienced ; another, that the good opinion of the 
Emperor is no object of their ambition. 

I cannot help here remarking upon the different 
effects the expectation of England's interfering has 
produced in different parts of this country. Where 
we now are it, has caused suspension of action, be- 
cause it is here thought, that a word from England 
will save and render needless all further effusions of 
blood; while to the eastward — judging from our 
conversations with chiefs from the Abazaks and the 
Prince of Psadug ; by the letter from Hatukwoi, and 
still more by the result of this affair of the chiefs of 
the provinces nearest the Kuban — it is evident that 
the people think the moment is at hand when they 
may beneficially throw off the degrading mask of 
neutrality, and join their countrymen in the main- 
tenance of their common independence. I have not 
a doubt that to this feeling is to be attributed the 
firmness of the chiefs and the relenting of the 
Russians ; because the latter must know as well as 
we, that the provinces they call friendly are in the 
state of a charged cloud, which has the moment of 
its explosion determined exclusively by the state of 
the atmosphere which surrounds it. 



28b' 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



My countrymen, when in the south, received cor- 
roboration of the report we had formerly heard, of 
General Rosen having been obliged to reship from 
Ardler his Georgian and Azra auxiliaries, in con- 
sequence of their refractoriness in not firing upon 
the Circassians. They found it also true, that the 
Georgians had previously sent messengers to the 
Circassians to state that they had been compelled to 
join the army, but would fire in the air. Thus it 
may be hoped, that in Georgia also there still exists 
a parva scintilla of independence. 

On the road between Tshopsin and Ghelenjik, 
my friends found proof— in the innumerable shot- 
holes in trees, in recent graves, and otherwise — that 
the Russians had there been roughly handled during 
their retreat. 

My Pole has been on an errand, and is quite de- 
lighted with the improved treatment he now ex- 
periences, as attached to the English party. At the 
house where he dined he had ten tables served him, 
the best guest-bed, and the greatest civility. He 
begs to have more of such employment. 

I have just had two specimens of rock brought me 
from a hill near the Adughum, which are evidently 
volcanic. They resemble pumice-stone. 



LETTER XII. 



VISITS AMONG THE TOKAVS — SALT-SPRING— PITCH- 
SPRING — SUPERABUNDANCE OF CIRCASSIAN FEASTS 
— THE PLAIN OF THE KUBAN — RUSSIAN NEWS — - 
RENEGADE CIRCASSIANS—CIRCASSIAN OSTENTATION 
— CIRCASSIAN MINSTRELSY — FUNERAL FEASTS. 

Valley of Psebebsi, Wednesday, 1st November, 1837. 

My Dear . We are here at the hamlet of 

Haud-oku Mensur — of the noble and influential fra- 
ternity Tshupako — the head war-chief of this province. 
While I write, the rest are practising at a mark with 
their fire-arms. We left Semez on Saturday last ; 
and put up, the first night, at the house of a worthy 
tokav* within a few miles of Anapa. In addition 
to our large party (nine including servants) and escort, 
two cart-loads of females arrived the same evening; 
yet all appeared welcome, and the granary was 
thrown open for the benefit of all our horses. In 
crossing the valley, we came within cannon -range of 
the outer Russian fort, and saw Circassian piquets 
much nearer to it ; but the only novelties I remarked 
during this ride, were numerous furrowings of wild 
hogs — which are said to be in great plenty in the 
neighbouring forests — and some wild pheasants, 
which we flushed, 



* A Tatar term : equivalent to the Circassian thfokotl, and more 
euphonious. 



288 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



On the second evening, we put up at a cluster of 
hamlets called Khopessa, seated on the brow of a hill, 
which affords a view of the whole of the Russian 
establishments around Anapa, — of the sea, and the 
distant hills of the Crimea. 

On Monday, we had not long set out for the 
valley whence I write, before a brisk cannonade was 
heard in our rear. Some Circassians who arrived 
soon after informed us, there had been an encounter 
brought on by a sortie of the Russians, for the pur- 
pose of cutting wood in a forest just below where we 
had lodged. In this they were opposed, and obliged 
to abandon their design, in consequence of an attack 
by some 150 Circassians, (our informants among the 
rest,) who further stated that a young man who 
had been with us at breakfast had fallen in the 
action. 

At this hamlet, I met a curious instance of the 
credulity of the people here in regard to the inven- 
tive powers of Europeans. On my inquiring how 
some vitrified lumps I found on the ground had 
been produced, they replied, 4< That it was a sub- 
stance with which the Russians had last year burnt 
a cottage that stood there." It was probably occa- 
sioned by the alkali of a plant which formed part of 
the thatch. 

We were quartered on Monday evening with 
Aretin, an Armenian (the atalik of Mensur's son), 
who resides in a very picturesque portion of the 
upper part of this valley. Here we saw for the 
first time an upper story, or rather cockloft, to which 
access was obtained by some rickety wooden stairs. 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



289 



The apartments of all the other houses we have yet 
seen are au re% de chaassee. 

Mensur gave us a hearty reception, and expressed 
his regret that he had not been able to see us fre- 
quently, on account of the state of his foot. To 
endeavour to heal it was one of the objects of our 
visit : and the case does not appear hopeless, although, 
the wound is of twenty years' standing; for the 
management with dressings of herbs has evidently 
been bad. The wound was received in the course of 
an incursion he made during winter into the Russian 
territory in company with thirty or forty others. 
They were returning with considerable booty when 
they were attacked by superior numbers, and forced 
to abandon it. But Mensur and ten of his com- 
panions determined to return and make another 
attempt, when they were again attacked, and all 
killed but himself and one friend, whom Mensur 
carried off on his shoulders, dangerously wounded, 
until he sunk down exhausted amidst a snow-storm, 
accompanied by wind and such an intense cold as he 
has never since experienced. This snow-storm lasted 
seven or eight days, and during the whole of that 
time he lay on the ground without sustenance of any 
sort. When he was found by some Circassian 
hunters life was nearly extinct ; and on removing 
him from the spot where he lay, a portion of his 
naked and frost-bitten foot adhered to the ice, and 
was thus torn off. All the toes and fore part of the 
foot are gone, and a large wound remains on the 
sole — a consequence of the impatient and restless 
spirit of this veteran chief, who is now and has been 

VOL. I. U 



290 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



for some time past one of the main props of the war 
in a large portion of this province. His mind we 
found the reverse of dejected, teeming with plans for 
carrying on the war with vigour during the winter, 
so soon as his foot should enable him again to get 
into the saddle. Aided by his experience and clear 
judgment, we soon decided upon the operations in 
which we could co-operate with most advantage to 
the country. Among these are the administration 
of an oath (which shall be mentioned hereafter), and 
a journey into the northern parts of Abazak, in 
which Men stir promises, if possible, to accompany us. 

No "womankind" is to be found within the 
hamlet of this chief. His wife is dead. Last year 
he lost between forty and fifty serfs by the plague ; 
and two females he purchased this year have also 
died. But far from abandoning himself to despair, 
he has resolved (although about sixty years of age) 
on marrying again, and for that purpose he begged 
that the English pistol we had given him might be 
exchanged for a bow, which forms an indispensable 
ingredient among the articles generally given for a 
wife. 

Suma'i, Saturday, 4<tk.— Qn Wednesday afternoon 
we moved with a large escort to the second valley, 
eastward of Psebebsi, called Waps, and were hos- 
pitably entertained at the hamlet of four tokav 
brothers, whose numerous cottages are most pic- 
turesquely situated on a stream, amid thickly- wooded 
hills. Next day, on our way thither, we were moved 
to the hamlet of another wealthy tokav in the valley 
which lies immediately to the west of that of M ensur, 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



291 



where we were again treated with a lavish kindness, 
of which our host had previously given a more decided 
proof in entertaining at his hamlet about a hundred 
and thirty individuals of the vicinity who assembled 
for the purpose of taking an oath not to hold 
intercourse with the Russians, to detect and punish 
spies, and to do their utmost to suppress theft in their 
neighbourhood. 

Learning there was a salt spring close by this house, 
we got some of the water and found that seventy-five 
ounces of it yielded one ounce of very good salt ; but 
the water of a brook that runs by seems to filter into 
the head of the spring, and I have no doubt that 
were it properly fenced and excavated the brine would 
be found much stronger and very abundant. It 
is said that a spring of mineral pitch exists in this 
neighbourhood, and is used for smearing cart-wheels, 
&c. The deposit of salt in this part of the country 
must be considerable, for this is only one of many 
springs that have been mentioned to us. 

We found our host here on the eve of setting out 
for Tshopsin with four sheep, millet, honey, &c, as 
his contribution towards the funeral feast of a relative 
who had been killed during the late invasion. 

Here a case of powder was inadvertently given to 
a noble and a tokav for the purpose of being shared 
between them; when the former politely declined 
his portion, and afterwards informed my servant 
apart that he had done so because to share a present 
with a tokav was inconsistent with the dignity of his 
rank. 

I have just learnt some further particulars about 

u 2 



292 RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIAN 

the fraternities, and these, as well as other pieces of 
information of the same sort, must be taken as I get 
them ; because it might prove prejudicial (by exciting 
suspicion) if I set too systematically about collecting 
and booking matters connected with the usages of 
the country. Besides, such a mode of proceeding 
might be the means of eliciting answers coloured to 
serve a purpose. I must therefore continue trusting 
to the current of conversation. 

If a man be killed in a quarrel (the cause of most 
murders) by a member of his own fraternity, a calcu- 
lation is made of how much would fall to the share 
of his family in the case of the murderer having 
belonged to another fraternity, which had been 
obliged in consequence to pay 200 oxen ; and this 
proportion only falls to be paid to the family. In 
some fraternities if one member kill another accident- 
ally, half of the above-mentioned proportion falls to 
be paid ; while in others there is no payment at all. 
Duels are treated as murders, unless permission to 
fight be obtained from the fraternities of both the 
combatants. 

Shamuz remained behind at Semez to construct a 
stable to hold our numerous horses during the winter ; 
and he would, it is said, have joined us by this time, 
but that he has been obliged to go to Pshat to pay a 
visit of condolence to the Indar-oku family, in con- 
sequence of the death of a son of Noghai' (a very 
amiable youth) by a gun-shot wound from the Rus- 
sians. Great stress appears to be laid upon such visits. 

In a song we have heard here on the beautiful 
sister of the Zazi-okus, one of her deserted lovers— 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



293 



among the numerous reproaches he addresses to her 
— calls her as touchy as English gunpowder. I 
would gladly make a large collection of Circassian 
songs, as such records often afford the best illustration 
of the state of a society such as this. But I find 
great difficulty in getting the reciters to exert the 
patience requisite for making translations. The 
following fragment is all I could get on the present 
occasion. 

"Without hesitation you must rush into battle, 
sabre in hand. He who takes spoil in war is a hero. 
He who falls in battle becomes a martyr; and he 
who is not killed will hear his praises resounded. 

" They tied their bridles together ; and, forming a 
square, thus they fought. The black war-horse of 
Khuz Ali, though staggering with fatigue, bore his 
master from amid the enemy. Achmet, the chief of 
the Zush fraternity, has brought with him the head 
of a mighty captain. Osman, the brother of Achmet, 
drove his steed against the steed of an enemy, and 
struck down the Moscov with his sabre," &c. &c. 

Our hosts both of yesterday and to-day are 
tokavs, and to-morrow we go another short ride to 
the hamlet of a third, the object of the chiefs appear- 
ing to be, that, in travelling about, as we are now 
doing, for the purpose of exciting the people to hold 
a large congress at which measures may be taken 
to suppress treachery and Russian trading, and to 
redeem their character from the national reproach 
of thieving which attaches to it, we should for a 



294 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



time be entirely among the tokavs, to prevent any 
jealousy on their part, which might have arisen had 
we continued visiting the nobles alone. 

Upper Psebebsi, Tuesday, ytk November.— We 
are here in a still more picturesque portion of this 
valley, an amphitheatre of well- wooded rocky hills, 
some of which are conical, the rest of various forms, 
with a few fertile meadows between them, through 
which the clear and excellent fishing-stream Psebebsi 
travels over its stony bed. The hamlets are nume- 
rous, and the people equally kind and inquisitive. 
Still among the tokavs we find little or no difference, 
either in our tables or general treatment, excepting 
that the bedding is neither of such handsome stuffs, 
nor generally:® so cleanly, as among their superiors ; 
but, on the whole, even in these respects, there is 
little to complain of. Excepting Mensur, there are 
no nobles in this neighbourhood, and none between 
this and Adughum. "% The Zahn(Sefir Bey's) family 
was, till of late, the superior of this part of the coun- 
try, and its supremacy extended from Anapa to 
Adughum. 

The weather is still beautiful and mild. We had 
hoar frost for a few mornings ; but that has dis- 
appeared, and at noon the sunshine is oppressively 
warm when not counteracted by the lively breeze 
from the east, which prevails during the day here as 
on the coast. 

Mr (or Nadir Bey, as he is now styled here) 

went yesterday to look at the foot of our patient 
Mensur, and found it progressing admirably, and 
himself consequently in high spirits, and ready to 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



295 



give anything he possessed in recompense, offering 
my servant, who accompanied the Bey, the best of 
his horses, &c, which of course were declined. He 
spoke highly of Prince Pshugui, and said, that 
during his late visit he promised to give him a wife, 
and a female serf. Mensur sent his son-in-law to 
report upon the former ; but the report was not suffi- 
ciently favourable to induce him to accept of her. 
He prefers, therefore, selecting and paying for one 
of superior charms. Personal beauty seems to be, in 
general, the first consideration, and good housewifery 
the second. T presume there are few, if any, others. 

Adughum, Saturday, 11th November, — Our ride 
of Wednesday did not exceed an hour, but was 
extremely pleasing. Advancing up the valley of the 
Psebebsi, the scenery becomes more interesting from 
the wooded and fantastically formed hills closing in 
upon the little clear stream ; they then expand, and 
form a very pretty valley called Shesh, where we 
found tidy, comfortable quarters, and good entertain- 
ment, from some tokav brothers, whose guest-house 
was very ornamentally enclosed and substantially 
constructed. The hills hereabouts appear to be 
chiefly a conglomerate of sea-shells and sand, forming 
a pretty hard stone. From Shesh we crossed the 
hill diagonally so as to come within four or five miles 
of the plain of the Kuban, and at this distance from 
it traversed several small valleys, among which I 
recognised only the names of the PsifF and Godo- 
whai, as tributaries of that river. The only valley 
which struck me as remarkable for fertility, size, and 
beauty, was the latter. Of our first quarters at Sufu 



296 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



I must take notice, for two reasons. The first is, that 
our host gave the first example I have met with in 
this country of a positive disinclination to receive us. 
On learning this, we three English immediately 
remounted our horses, and declared our determina- 
tion rather to bivouac upon the hills, than occupy 
a house against the owner's will. This movement 
brought our sulky host to his senses, and alarmed 
him at the prospect of the disgrace that would light 
on him if strangers were repelled from his door. 
He pulled one of us from his horse with great alac- 
rity, and insisted upon all remaining, whilst his 
people bustled actively in putting the house in order. 
In the course of the evening, it was explained, that 
the elderly gentleman, who is a very wealthy tokav, 
had a two-fold cause for his sulkiness — that he had 
got only a few hours', instead of a day or two's notice 
- — as he said the Vorks did — -of our coming ; and 
that he had travelled some time in our company, and 
been to see us several times at Semez, without receiv- 
ing any present! He appeared, however, heartily 
ashamed of the extremity to which his bad humour 
had led him ; and endeavoured to obliterate the 
effects by good cheer and kindly deportment. W e, 
on our part — not disposed to be resentful — met his 
advances good-hum oredly, and by this means, and by 
caressing a fine boy he has, so far gained his heart, 
(a present being added,) that we parted to all appear- 
ance the best friends imaginable. And it seemed to 
be well for our host that the other extremity had not 
taken place, as Luca, in the course of the evening,, 
!iad been to a neighbour's house, where the judge 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA, 



297 



(Mehmet EfFendi) and several of our escort were 
lodged, and making merry ; who declared it to have 
been their determination, if this host had allowed us 
to depart, to have burned his house — Lynch law. 

The other reason for remarking upon this place is, 
that we were here shown the spring of mineral-pitch 
I formerly mentioned, which is contiguous to it. — 
This pitch had the colour of petroleum, but may, 
perhaps, be naphtha, coloured by exposure, as I 
thought I saw on stirring the spring. I had some of 
it brought to our house ; a wick made, and set fire 
to, which seemed to be a new discovery to those 
present, as our host seized the wick, and bore it off 
with no little alacrity to his house to show it burn- 
ing to his wife. A conglomerate of sea-shells was 
the only stone I found near this spring. There are 
said to be some other springs of the same kind in 
this part of the country. 

Adughum, 30th. — The hamlet in which we are 
lodged is the third, in this rich and populous neigh- 
bourhood, we have been received at and heartily en- 
tertained, without any previous notice ; and, as there 
are, as I said, nine of ourselves and servants, besides 
a numerous escort — some of whom always eat with 
us — the preparation of our repast must, in their small 
establishments, be a matter of no little labour. At 
dinner each day, we have been burdened with the 
variety of dishes, each of which must, to avoid 
offence, be at least tasted of. Yesterday evening we 
were to have been quartered upon an Armenian 
family, and were already on our way, when a man 
who had been sent before returned at full speed* 



298 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



saying, that the quarters were occupied by a party 
from Psadug. Great irritation was expressed at this 
conduct of the Armenians, it appearing to be ex- 
pected that they should have turned out their visiters 
to make room for us ; and some little demur and 
debate occurred in the field where we stopped, as to 
where we were to be lodged — for it was already near 
sunset, and consequently little time remained for 
search — when a tokav of our party offered, of his own 
accord, to receive us, so back we rode to his hamlet, 
and have had the usual plentiful repast. His appear- 
ance betokens poverty of both corporeal and mental 
endowments; yet his modest demeanour prepossessed 
us in his favour. Last night, when all had left us, 
he came in, and spoke to the following effect : — 
<c My father was much esteemed, had always influence, 
and was much listened to in the councils ; but I am 
one little considered, and cannot hope to imitate my 
father in anything but his hospitality. I should be 
sorry to shut the door which he always kept open, 
for, in entertaining strangers I seem to revive the 
days of my father. I hope, therefore, that you will 
prove my friendship for you by living with me every 
time you return to this neighbourhood." 

After he had retired, Kaplan (tiger) Karzek, a 
noble of this neighbourhood (whose dark, expressive, 
and handsome features, would make him a fine 
" study " for an Italian bandit), and three or four 
others, arrived, to talk over a small expedition against 
the enemy which one of my countrymen had sug- 
gested, and which these Circassians were quite ready 
to execute along with him. But Kaplan afforded us 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



299 



an instance both of the konak* system and of the 
influence possessed by the elderly chiefs, by saying 
that he and his party were quite ready to act, but 
that some of those who had come with us from the 
west had objected to the present execution of the 
project, lest it might displease Shamuz, who is at 
present responsible for all that may befall us, and 
that therefore the consent of Shamuz must first be 
obtained, and word sent him, when he and his band 
should be ready to start instantaneously. 

Adughum, Uth. — Yesterday we were received at 
this, the Armenian hamlet owned by three rich 
brothers, whose family has been established in this 
country from time immemorial. Our entertainment, 
as if to compensate for the former contretemps, has 
been most abundant ; and it is arranged that we 
shall remain here two or three days, whilst the 
summons to the Congress is circulated. To-day my 
two countrymen set out to reconnoitre the fort of 
Abun, distant two or three hours' riding, while I, 
who had seen it before, preferred exploring the 
country towards the Kuban : and I am now sitting 
in no little anxiety about my companions and their 
escort ; for on returning from my ride, five succes- 
sive cannon reports were heard. 

My friends are just returned all safe, therefore I 
may go on with my own story : theirs might have 
been a melancholy one, for they were a long way 
within cannon-range, and two balls passed close over 
their heads. 



* Bizim is the Circassian word for a host and protector. 



300 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



A little way beyond this hamlet I found the dense 
forest by which it is surrounded terminate. To the 
thick wood succeeded clumps of trees, interspersed 
with rich fields and hamlets. A ride of an hour and 
a half brought us beyond all these, and having 
crossed by a bridge of fascines, which the Russians 
constructed last year, a river called the Nwagatshi, 
and which is said to be formed of the waters 
of the Adughum, Abun, and Sheps, we arrived 
on the verge of a plain totally level, with a few 
scattered thickets, the rest being a vast green 
prairie, bounded by a distant and continuous skirting 
of wood, which indicated the course of the Kuban. 
This plain is all habitable, and apparently of sur- 
passing richness, thistles and other annuals rising 
considerably above our heads while on horseback. 
The wooded parts display no timber of such a size 
as might be expected on this deep alluvial soil ; from 
which circumstance I would infer that the Noghais, 
who are said to have possessed this part of the 
country previously to the Circassians, must have 
cleared away the forest, and that many years cannot 
have elapsed since it was allowed to resume its empire. 
Innumerable furro wings showed the multitudes of 
wild boars which now, with deer and other wild 
animals, are the only inhabitants of this portion of 
the rich plain which yet seems capable of supporting 
in ease and plenty some millions of human beings. 

On our way, I had some discourse with the Prince 
of Janat, who has just returned from Psadug, where 
the most trustworthy accounts of the Russian move- 
ments are generally to be obtained. According to 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



301 



his statements, there is little chance of the Russians 
returning here this season, as they are fatigued with 
the campaign, and in despondency at its results. 
They have, he says, been marched into winter- 
quarters, at a distance from the Kuban. Many 
large detachments of fresh troops have been moved 
off suddenly towards the north, from which it is 
presumed that there has arisen some pressing occasion 
for their services. This may possibly have been 
caused by the edict lately issued by the Emperor for 
clothing the Cossacks as Hulans. Since this will 
oblige them to abandon their ancient national 
garb, to which they are said to be fondly attached, 
the ukase in question may have created great dis- 
content. It is thus that Russia, by assimilating 
everything to her own national institutions, and by 
making a " Procrustes bed" of the will of her 
Emperor, haply digs her own grave, and arrays 
against her the national feeling of every people she 
conquers. 

Adughum. 17 th. — While at the Armenian hamlet 
on Tuesday last, I was informed that a man present 
had brought there two horse-loads of salt, from the. 
Russian trading mart opposite Shapsuk, which I am 
sorry to say is again in operation. I of course let 
him know our feelings on the subject, and in the 
evening, when my countrymen had arrived, a neigh- 
bour came to us to say that if we would issue the 
order, the salt should immediately be seized and con- 
fiscated. This we declined doing, but sent for Meh- 
met Effendi to desire that, if possible, this delinquent 
might be immediately punished. He expressed his 



302 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



wish that this should be done, but requested time to 
consider of it ; and next morning he told us that, 
having consulted with the elders of our escort, they 
thought it would be premature, and would have a bad 
effect to pounce thus upon one of the many indivi- 
duals of Shapsuk, who are equally guilty ; and that 
it would be better to wait the general effects of the 
measures, which it was one chief object of our visit 
here to induce the people of that province to take, 
for the prevention of all such trading. In this we 
were obliged, somewhat reluctantly, to acquiesce. 

We had an appointment for next day, with a large 
party, to go hunting deer and wild boars, on the 
uninhabited part of the plain ; but the morning 
proved rainy, and it was moreover hinted, that a 
rencounter with some renegade Circassians might 
take place. These Circassians are nobles of Shap- 
suk, of a high grade, one of whom had his house 
burned, goods confiscated, and himself banished from 
the country, in consequence of his having received 
and entertained a Russian officer from Anapa. His 
friends say he was no traitor, and that he committed 
merely an error of judgment in thus requiting atten- 
tions he had formerly received from the officer ; and 
his fraternity felt so enraged at his punishment, that 
the whole of them left the country, and have settled on 
an island in the Kuban. Some further misunder- 
standing having occurred between them and their 
neighbours on this side of the river, a rencounter 
took place that very day on the plain — where the 
former came occasionally to hunt — in which one of 
the nobles was wounded, taken prisoner, and subse- 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



303 



quently stabbed; and three others also were killed. 
It would certainly be desirable that a reconcilia- 
tion should take place between that fraternity and 
their countrymen ; but the next best thing is that 
they should be deadly foes, to prevent the former 
from acting as negotiators for the Russians. 

We were now asked what should be done in conse- 
quence of a chief of Psadug having seized and detained 
two Circassians and an Armenian, of Notwhatsh, who 
had gone into their district to trade. We advised 
that a messenger should be sent to demand the cause 
of their detention, before any hostile measures — such 
as our con suiters seemed inclined to take — were 
adopted; but if Psadug cannot be weaned from her per- 
nicious neutrality, it would not be amiss that there 
were a feud with her also, for her territory is, as mat- 
ters stand, the workshop of treachery, and all are 
becoming suspected who go much there. 

On Tuesday afternoon we moved to the hamlet of 
the " Beau Nash " of Circassia. " Sir Pertinax 
Vaunt" might perhaps better describe Kalabat-oku 
Katukwoi, for such another unwearied egotist is 
rarely to be met with. But the general economy of his 
guest-house and its tables are certainly unrivalled 
in this country, and, on the present occasion, the 
first visit of our lately arrived countryman, they 
seemed to surpass our former experience of them. 
Yet our greatest treat was the company of the lion of 
Circassia, Hadji Ghuz Beg, whom we met on the way, 
accompanied by a single servant leading a spare war- 
horse. We all dismounted to return this courtesy of 
the old warrior, who is suffering indisposition from a 



304 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA, 



fall with his horse, during his late fight at Tshopsin, 
and still more, it is said, from the Russians having 
been allowed to quit the country without more rough 
handling. But something may yet be done against 
them if the present combinations with this chief hold 
good. Little time sufficed for the discussion of these, 
and the remainder of the afternoon and the following 
morning which we spent in his company, were de- 
voted to the merriment he seems to love. In the 
evening he brought a Circassian Ossian to us ; an old 
blind minstrel, who has composed, and sings to his 
own accompaniment on the violin, most of the war- 
songs now in vogue. Of many of these he gave us 
long specimens ; my greatest amusement during their 
performance, was to observe the fixed attention of 
Ghuz Beg, who loves music ardently, and who, having 
taken both first and second part in several songs, told 
us that as he, a Hadji, had sung, it could be no 
shame for us to do so. He insisted, therefore, that 
we should give him some specimens of our national 
music, which we did to the best of our power (our 
national anthem among others), and he and the rest 
of the party got gradually so elated, that sundry 
pistols were discharged up the chimney (nay — to the 
dismay of Sir Pertinax — old Beg fired one through 
the finely-planed boarding of the roof). By way of 
a climax to the general enthusiasm, a bevy of curious 
damsels assembled around the house and peeped cau- 
tiously in at the window of the room in which we 
were. 

One song of the old minstrel seemed to be an 
enumeration of all the duties incumbent on the Cir- 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



305 



cassians at the present crisis ; others were satirical, 
and produced much merriment. We paid the old 
poet a tribute of praise for the good he confers on his 
countrymen in exciting their patriotism, and added 
more substantial proof of our admiration in a present. 
On his part he promised to make our benevolence to 
his country the theme of a song, and thus we parted 
for the present. Here is a specimen of the old man's 
minstrelsy : — 

WAR SONG. 

" When the Russian general arrived at the fortress 
of Shad, they called a council. The council was 
moved on to Ferzadi. They passed the Lubiz, dye- 
ing the river with their blood, and then erected the 
fort of Abun. The yellow-haired general is arrived : 
what does he deserve ? 6 A great battle/ said the 
Circassians. Kazi-oku PshemafF, thy heart was like 
mount Saberkwesh, but thou hast fallen headless on 
the field ; the gate of Paradise is open for thee, and 
thou hast entered it immediately. With his foot he 
guided his lion-horse in battle, and when fallen they 
covered him with his coat of mail. Tehughi Dovlat 
Mirza, immaturely brave, fell a martyr on the field. 
The garments of HadswafT-oku Subesh were yellow ; 
and, like a blaho, (serpent,) he strove to sting the 
Moscov. The men of Shapsuk gazed from the 
mountain side ; but the men of Notwhatsh rushed, 
sabre in hand, into the battle, and were slain. Jam- 
bolet, at night, kept guard, and, in the day, swept the 
field like a destroying flame. HaM-oku Mensur, 
when mounted, was all bravery ; but, in the council, 
all wisdom. Of thee be it said, Indar-oku Noghai, 

VOL. I. X 



306 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



that though advanced in years, thine appearance and 
deeds are those of a brave and stout young man. 
Kusht Tegumi Zad, of thee be it said, that though 
thy features be aged thou hast merited a year's praise. 
Kalabat-oku Hatukwoi, vain of himself and of his 
steed, drew his sabre and entered into the battle. 
Kushmud (his brother) drew his sabre, and the breast 
of his red steed soon opened for him a pathway amid 
the ranks. Young men of Circassia, rush forth to 
the battle, for brave youths always love war. If ye 
fall ye become martyrs, and if ye survive ye have half 
that glory ! " 

On Thursday morning betimes, the Hadji, who 
lodged in the second guest-house, beat up our 
quarters, and during the discussion of an excellent 
breakfast a liquor call shiien (something like treacle 
beer, yet less palatable and much stronger) was cir- 
culated so rapidly by our persevering host, that the 
Hadji (though he did not drink much, nor most) got 
highly elevated and as full of fun and tricks as a boy ; 
and it was not a little amusing to contemplate in 
this phase the scourge of the Russian frontier, upon 
whose head a price is set ; whom the Russian soldiers 
imagine to be a mighty prince inhabiting a fort, and 
having numerous retainers in his pay ; and whose 
name is made a bugbear by the Russian mothers. 
The name acquired by his deeds is all his " bulwark 
and his tower of strength." 

We set out early, having to meet a large assem- 
bly of people convened on the occasion of a funeral 
repast some miles off, to deliberate with them on the 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



307 



subject of the administration of the national oath (as 
it may well be called) in Shapsuk. But we had only 
passed the first enclosure when the war-cry and the 
firing of some pistols made us turn to defend our 
baggage and rear-guard, attacked in mock fight (as 
it proved) by the Hadji and a large party on foot ; 
and this attack having been repelled, amid much 
merriment, and our advanced guard having entered 
some thickets, we were in like manner summoned to 
its defence against an ambuscade placed there in wait 
for it. Such amusement is frequently indulged in, 
and is excellent training for the horses at least. 

The funeral meeting we found to be a very large 
one. It was held on the wide slope of a hill, where, 
exposed to a bleak foggy east-wind, we had to take 
our seats on mats under a leafless tree, while a small 
flickering fire burned at our feet, and helped to com- 
fort us during the endurance of the long tedious 
delay that here, as well as elsewhere, seems always to 
be the penalty one pays for partaking of a dinner 
at which the guests are numerous. But on these 
funeral occasions there is least excuse for this, as the 
viands are always cold, almost always the same, and 
of little variety. 

During the interval, however, there was some horse- 
racing and bow-firing at the remote centre of the 
large space we were assembled on ; and early in the 
day our attention was attracted to one side by the 
report of a pistol, when five or six men rode rapidly 
off the ground and left another seated upon it with 
several around him, to whom parties immediately 

galloped up from all parts of the ground. Presently 

x 2 



308 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



a man passed up the hill supported, and apparently- 
wounded. On inquiry, we learnt that the persons 
who had quarrelled were members of the same fra- 
ternity ; that the one had sold a Russian prisoner 
or deserter to the other, and immediately after 
carried him off and resold him (as was supposed) to 
the Russians. Such being the case, instead of sym- 
pathy we felt regret that the wound had been but a 
slight one in the foot ; and we have since urged Meh- 
met EfFendi to have this traitor made an immediate 
example of, and to have this selling of prisoners 
punished with the same severity as espionage. He 
says it is to be one chief subject of debate at the 
approaching congress. So far as I can learn the 
crime is new, and seems not yet to have been made 
the subject of legislation, without which there seems 
to be a wholesome disinclination to act. 

After our repast, there was the usual proclama- 
tion upon the subject of the intended congress which 
is to be holden on the eastern frontier of Shapsuk, 
and to which the different fraternities are requested 
to send members. The ceremonies concluded with 
more horse-racing and bow-firing. The only remark- 
able events during these were, the claim urged by 
the second and third in the straight-race to a share 
in the prize of my winning jockey ; and the surprise 
of the Circassians at the ease with which our new 
fox-hunting associate got away from their pursuit- 
race by leaping the fences — an exploit which seemed 
to cause new light to break in upon them ; and there 
are already several young aspirants to the glory of 
performing this feat, though a somewhat hazardous 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



309 



oiie with the Circassian saddle and its short stirrup- 
leathers. I might have added the circumstance, that 
in the competition of archers the mark was not once 
hit, but that it would have appeared more remark- 
able if it had been ; for the feat must be exceedingly 
difficult. The mark is a small one, projected from 
the top of several lofty poles fastened together so as 
to raise it to a considerable height. Two horsemen, 
one before the other, put their horses to their speed, 
a short distance from the pole, during the approach 
to which the pursuer bent his bow, stooped to the 
left side of his horse, (the pole being on his right,) 
and thus twisted, with his face backwards, and then 
looking upwards from beneath his raised left arm, he 
let fly the shaft, which on several occasions ascended 
perpendicularly, and very near the mark. 



LETTER XIII. 



FEMALE EDUCATION — LADY VISITERS — COMFORTS 
OF RAMAZAN WHEN IT FALLS ABOUT THE WINTER 
SOLSTICE. 

Bokhundub (Shapsuk), 19 th November, 1837. 

We are, at length, so far on our way to the long- 
talked-of congress. Yesterday we travelled some 
twenty miles, crossing the rich, level, and beautiful 
plain of the Abun, about four miles to the north of 
the fortress — if barracks of wood, surrounded by an 
earthen rampart, with cannon, deserve the name. 
In the evening, amid a shower of rain, we reached 
the most wretched quarters we have occupied since 
we came to the north ; and we found them the less 
endurable that we had been spoiled by the good 
treatment of our last host at Adughum, Ali-bi — said to 
be the wealthiest man of the province, and possessed 
of property (land is never taken into calculation) 
to the value of 6000/. — in whose house our entertain- 
ment was amply indicative of affluence. His guest- 
house was large and commodious ; his tables numerous 
and excellent ; and not only ourselves but all our 
servants had mattresses and coverlets supplied them ; 
— while here we are in a wretched little cabin, about 
twelve feet square, on three sides of which the clay 
has fallen from the wattles, and allows the wind free 
passage, bringing with it, on one side, the noisome 
vapours of the stables ; and all the bedding furnished 
us were three mats, and as many cushions, The 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



311 



excuse pleaded for all these deficiencies is the vicinity 
of the place to the usual track of the Russians ; and it 
seems a valid one. 

Kutshuk, a handsome young Turk in Nadir Bey's 
service, having communicated to Luca his great wish 
to be enabled to marry a handsome Circassian girl he 
is enamoured of, and who speaks and writes Turkish 
well, I was pleased to learn, at the same time, that a 
great many girls are thus educated, attending for that 
purpose the schools in the mosks, along with the 
boys. 

Another act of aggression has been committed 
by the people of Psadug, who have carried off 
a thousand or two of sheep from the frontier of 
Abazak. This conduct is so utterly at variance with 
the statements of the prince, as to the general dispo- 
sition of the people of that province — whom he 
represented as overawed by the Abazaks — that we 
are at a loss to guess its cause, and tempted to con- 
jecture that it may have been the act of incendiaries 
set on by the Russians, to prevent the alliance they 
may have heard is about to be concluded between 
these two provinces. But we must wait for further 
information before moving in the affair. 

Ankhur, 20th. — We have shared for the last few 
days in the great anxiety of Mehmet Effendi, regard- 
ing the getting together a congress, deprived as we 
are at the moment of the assistance of those most 
indispensable personages, Shamuz and Mensur; in 
whose absence the people seem disinclined to meet ; 
but we have now secured the co-operation of Shiplag- 
okii Nassu, an elderly tokav, (the Demosthenes of 



312 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



this province, but braver, if less eloquent, than his 
great prototype,) and of some other influential indi- 
viduals. Matters being thus in train, the judge is 
in high spirits, and scorns the aid of Shamuz, to 
whom he has sent a reproachful message. The con- 
duct of the latter in thus absenting himself upon an 
occasion of such moment appears very strange, to 
say the least of it, and, as I cannot doubt his fidelity 
to the interests of his country, the only feasible 
solution of it that I can imagine, is that he may 
have remained behind, to assist his relatives the 
Indar-okus, to find a settlement in the valley of 
Semez ; and that he thinks something due to his 
personal influence, and is unwilling to expose it again 
to the defeat he met with in his late attempt to raise 
a force to attack the Russians on their retreat. He 
will therefore probably make his appearance so soon 
as the assembly is past doubt. 

Perhaps you might feel no regret had many of my 
rides been taken in as dense a fog as the hour's ride 
of this morning, as you might, in that case, have 
been spared so many tedious descriptions of scenery : 
yet I warn you they shall be persevered in, to serve 
as memoranda, so that if memory shall fail me, I 
may by them be enabled to cast up, hereafter, an 
account-total, descriptive of this country, which it is 
possible may not soon again be visited by Englishmen. 

This morning the dense cold fog which prevailed 
till mid-day (it has frequently done so of late, as if 
brewing the strong frost we are about to have), veiled 
the landscape from us, and concentrated my attention 
on my benumbed toes. The " ways were mire 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASS1A. 



313 



the forest which bordered the greater part of the 
road shed its surcharged moisture upon us ; and, 
with an east wind in our faces, we were glad that our 
day's journey did not extend beyond the hour which 
brought us to the house of an elderly tokav, who 
received us most heartily; apologised for not having 
it in his power to entertain us as we deserved ; and 
expressed the pleasure it would give him if we could 
remain with him a month. 

Here we received the interesting intelligence that 
the Russians had engaged two persons to carry us 
off, kill us or our horses, or do us some grievous 
injury, for which they have promised a large reward, 
and given 2000 piastres as earnest. We have 
consequently been strongly advised to be prepared at 
all times, and not to stray from our escort. 

22nd. — The evening before last, as we sat con- 
versing with some visitors, a cry and some pistol 
shots were heard ; all rushed out, and believing that 
a bride was being carried off, several pistols were 
tired in honour of the occasion ; but it turned out a 
hoax of old Guz (or as it is properly pronounced 
Ghezil) Beg, who entered our house in the midst 
of the gathering he had caused, laughing heartily at 
the success of his joke. He staid with us till one in 
the morning ; and the dancing of one boy, and the 
very good singing of others, (with which we had 
been entertained the previous evening also,) besides 
other music, and the improvising of the old chief, 
helped to pass the time. He seems entirely devoid 
of care, and enjoys the dance with the spirit which 
belongs to boyhood only. He came here to inform my 



314 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



countrymen that he has got up " a gathering" for an 
exploit against the Russians ; but they are obliged 
to defer taking part in any such matter, because we 
think the presence and influence of all three necessary 
here at present, for getting the projected measures 
(against the spies and Russian trading) framed and 
put in execution. 

We have been honoured here with the visit of the 
four daughters of our host, who were all betrothed, 
but the Russians have just cut off the hope of the 
youngest. 

There appears to be a strange incongruity between 
the stately and reserved deportment unmarried girls 
of this country generally exhibit in public, and the 
freedom with which the male acquaintances of a 
family may caress and be caressed by them ; but a 
kiss would be considered an outrage of all decorum. 

Shiplag-oku, on his first introduction, addressed 
us to this effect : — " Some may tell you that the 
country is about to be lost by spies and smugglers ; 
but do not believe them, for we are as determined to 
resist as ever, and can, if necessary, carry on the 
war for as many more years as it has lasted. Others 
may reproach you for a difference of belief ; but do 
not heed them, for we know of the friendship your 
country has always shown towards Turkey and the 
Circassians. We will, therefore, always look upon 
the English as brothers." 

Kkabl, 22nd. — Yesterday, another cold short ride 
of an hour and a half brought us to this small village 
or congregation of hamlets. Here November now 
reigns in all her native gloom. The forests of oak 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



315 



which clothe the undulating country around are 
obscured, as are the skies, with one unbroken cloud ; 
a raw Russian breeze chills the air, and occasional 
drops of rain moisten the ground : and while the 
elements thus combine to dishearten us, the tide of 
human affairs runs equally adverse ; for reports of 
the treachery of some we thought the best friends of 
their country are current ; and the hopes of a con- 
gress being assembled to take measures for stopping 
the contagion are apparently in the agonies of death, 
because the chief people of influence have not yet 
made their appearance. The only excitement exist- 
ing is in the modicum of danger we incur here, where 
we are but a couple of hours' ride from that part of 
the Kuban where is the island inhabited by the Abbat 
fraternity, of whom I have spoken as having formerly 
abandoned this province, and who have since been 
joined by many bad subjects, who from time to time 
commit depredations upon the people of this neigh- 
bourhood. These people are supposed to have a 
commission from the Russians directed especially 
against us. It is but five nights since a party of 
them passed this house, driving off a booty of oxen. 
A demand for restitution has been made, accompa- 
nied by a threat of vengeance ; and as it is expected 
the Russians may induce them to make an attempt 
upon us, we are advised to be prepared to give our 
visitors a suitable reception. 

My countrymen tell me that in passing between 
Pshat and Ghelenjik they heard that, on the late 
march of the Russians on that route, a Circassian 
fell wounded in the leg, and his body was afterwards 



316 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



found by his countrymen laid across a fire and half 
roasted. Whether or not this was the unprompted 
act of the soldiery, it speaks equally forcibly as to 
the hopes of civilisation to this country through the 
medium of Russia. 

Upper Khdbl, Monday, %7th. — The depession 
under which I wrote a few days ago was doubtless 
attributable to the approach of indisposition which 
detained me for three days at our last quarters, with 
a feverish attack — of which I rather wonder we have 
not had more, considering the great dampness of the 
ground and the close contact with it in which we 
sleep. Yesterday I followed my countrymen to this 
place, a ride of about an hour and a half, in a course 
nearly south, which brought me to some very pic- 
turesque hamlets at the termination of a branch of 
the plain, closed in by the commencement of the 
hill country, through which is a difficult and long 
gorge (formed partly by the river Khabl) that leads 
to the sea-coast at Jubghe. 

On my way, I observed a portion of what appeared 
to have been a very considerable entrenchment, and 
which my attendants reported to have been anciently 
a fortress. 

I was glad to learn on my arrival here that while 
I was laid up things had taken a lively and favourable 
turn. Zepsh, one of our attendant elders, departed 
on Friday for Notwhatsh, to bring thence Mensur, 
if possible, and all the people of influence of that 
province ; others had departed for Abazak and other 
quarters, with the same object ; viz. — that of assem- 
bling here a great and influential congress, that 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



317 



execution may be done upon spies, and the oath I 
have already mentioned administered to all who 
have not yet taken it. The inhabitants of this 
district have demurred as to the oath, and forcible 
measures are to be adopted against them if necessary, 
to prevent the effects of their bad example. The 
old men of this neighbourhood (our host, a very 
wealthy merchant and brave warrior of about 100 
years of age, among them) are all on fire with war- 
like projects, and press us to remain here during 
winter to co-operate in their execution. 

On one of the nights of my illness, my companions 
were aroused by divers noises, well calculated, with 
our existing apprehensions, to excite alarm. The 
trampling of horses was first heard ; to that succeeded 
the talking of men outside the house, then chopping 
of wood, and finally an attempt upon the door. Our 
fatal hour seemed arrived (though I was insensible 
to it) ; ideas of being shot, carried off, or burned in 
our cottage, were rapidly suggested and communi- 
cated ; a determination to die hard was come to ; and 
thus with pistols in hand they waited till the alarm- 
ing sounds had passed off and sleep had again re- 
sumed her composing influence. When morning 
dawned the " Wolf" entered, and proved to have been, 
with his attendants, the cause of the disturbance. 
They had just returned from Psadug, where Tughuz 
having heard of the detention (by a Hadji too) of 
the three Notwhatsh merchants and their effects, he 
came into Shapsuk, assembled five-and-twenty men, 
and with their aid carried off from the hamlet of the 
offender a man and four oxen. He sent the Hadji 



318 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



word thereafter, that he would make restitution when 
he released the Notwhatsh people and their goods : 
what the primary cause of this aggression was I have 
not yet learned. Tughuz was said to have been con- 
cerned in the deportation of the 2000 sheep from 
Abazak, which he denies, though it is said four of 
his servants were, and that it was done as a punish- 
ment upon four of the principal chiefs of the province, 
who had voluntarily accepted the invitation to meet 
the Emperor on his return from Georgia. I trust 
severer measures may yet be taken with them ; and 
I am glad to find that their selfish and traitorous visit 
to Russia, and the expense and trouble they were at 
in decking themselves in silver lace, coats of mail, 
&c, afforded them (as is probable) no compensation. 

It is said the Emperor, when they and some 
other Circassians in attendance were pointed out to 
him, spoke to this effect : — " Are these people from 
the hostile provinces ? Bid them keep at a distance." 
And still feeling some apprehension for the sacred 
lives of himself and son, he had the wit to express a 
desire to see a Circassian race, and on the Circassians 
starting off, in compliance with his request, he also 
started off in continuance of his journey, leaving the 
mountaineers, no doubt, in wonder at imperial man- 
ners, and in despair at their blasted hopes of presents. 
These, I believe, after all, might have been the only 
object of their visit. One, at least, of these chiefs is 
reckoned a stanch foe to Russia ; and examples are to 
be found of many who have received presents, without 
any abatement of their hostility ensuing — so crude, 
as yet, are the Circassian notions of national duties. 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



319 



His majesty's conduct in this instance seems not to 
have been very considerate, probably his temper, as 
at Warsaw, overcame his discretion, and prevented 
him concealing his mortification at finding! that so 
few of his loving Circassian subjects were in attend- 
ance, and that a vast extent of country which he has 
for many years embodied in the charts of Russia, and 
passed off in Europe as subjected to his sway, is still 
almost as far from being fi de facto ' an integral por- 
tion of his empire as ever. 

The people of Psadug — ranked I presume amongst 
Russia's mirnoije or friends — who have thus done exe- 
cution on these temporising Abazacks, say they will 
restore the sheep, if we Englishmen say they ought 
to do so. 

A tragic scene had to all appearance nearly occur- 
red previous to our leaving the district of the Khabl, 
in consequence of Shahan Gheri, a very brave, active, 
and handsome noble, having come to meet us there, 
and having thus encountered a son of Shamuz (whom 
his father had sent to join us), and a servant of the 
family, who is at present in Nadir Bey's retinue. 
These two had drawn their rifles immediately on 
seeing Shahan, but were prevented firing by the other 
members of our escort who were present, and who 
obliged them, moreover, to promise not to have re- 
course to extremities again, upon the understanding 
that the subject of quarrel between the two families* 
should form a subject of debate and adjustment forth- 



* This, in all probability, was the cause of Shamuz having absented 
himself. 



320 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



with. The nature of the feud is this : — Some twenty 
years since Shahan married the sister of Shamuz, 
who, with his wonted liberality, refrained from exact- 
ing the presents usually given on similar occasions ; 
and she, after having lived with her husband for 
some five years, and born him several children, asked 
leave to pay a visit to her family. This is a common 
usage, and it frequently happens, that on the return 
of the wife, she brings with her presents of as great a 
value as those given to her family on her marriage. 
On this occasion, however, even the wife was not 
forthcoming ; and she has ever since remained an in- 
mate of her brother's house at Semez, where, I believe, 
she has become a devotee. Shahanrepeatedly demanded 
restitution of his wife, and the other twice sent her from 
his house ; but she returned, and was finally permit- 
ted to remain. Shamuz told Shahan, however, that he 
was ready to send her back to him, provided she were 
received into his house, and lived with conjugally. 
" No," replied Shahan ; " she left me, and remained 
away without cause. I have since taken another wife ; 
but send her to me, and she shall be provided apart 
with a house and establishment suitable to her rank." 
Matters remaining in this position, Shahan seized 
the opportunity of a servant of Shamuz being in this 
neighbourhood four years since to deprive him of his 
horse and arms, which he retained, in part compen- 
sation for the loss of his truant wife. 

There is no want of competent authority to settle 
this and many such disputes, which keep families, 
and, what is worse, fraternities at variance, and con- 
stitute, in the present circumstances of the country, 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



321 



one great cause of weakness : but procrastination 
seems to be a besetting sin of the Circassians. 

This hamlet is charmingly situated on a wooded 
knoll, which has others flanking it. and from which 
we overlook rich meadows, intersected by the stream 
(Khabl) whose name (like those of other rivers in 
this country) forms the only designation for the sur- 
rounding district. High oak-clad hills close in, im- 
mediately to the south, and seem to admit of but a 
difficult and intricate passage in that direction. 

The guest-house here is not, as usual, on the verge 
of the hamlet, but in the midst of our host's home- 
stead, in the large green of which are several noble 
oaks. The scene would, I think, prove attractive to 
a clever sketcher, and form a good subject. In the 
centre he would place a small field-piece (the pride 
of our host's heart), mounted on an unwieldy carriage, 
fit for a gun of six times its calibre ; then divers 
parties of warriors seated or standing about the green, 
in anxious or fierce debate (for blows have been ex- 
changed and weapons drawn during our stay, — a 
broken nose, however, has been the usual result), on 
the important matters now about to be put in exe- 
cution ; groups of cows and buffaloes feeding from 
circular paniers fixed in the ground ; horses, saddled 
or unsaddled, tied to all the trees ; turkeys and other 
poultry roaming scaredly about their invaded domain; 
watch-dogs stalking sulkily around ; while, between 
the family houses that skirt the enclosure, females, 
with their floating white veils, glide gracefully on 
their household errands, and present a strong con- 
trast to the Russian slaves, lazily hewing wood and 

VOL. I. Y 



322 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



bearing water. A huge fence of split trees, crossed, 
forms the enclosure, which is embosomed in woods, 
and through them appear the blue tops of the moun- 
tains to the south. 

Of the slaves I have mentioned, there are six on 
this establishment — four Russians and two Greeks, 
who were wrecked and captured during the gale in 
the beginning of October. They came with stores 
from Sevastopol, and say that the Vixen is not yet 
sold, as the captors demand about 6000/. for her ! 
She should be bought by the Emperor for the Im- 
perial Museum ! 

Our host is, as I said, about one hundred years 
old, yet still hale and active. He is rich, both in 
live-stock and merchandise. His reception and enter- 
tainment of us, and his invitation to stay or return, 
are urgent and apparently sincere. He seems to 
appreciate warmly the motives of our visit to his 
country, and to anticipate great benefit from it. In 
this expectation we at length feel justified in parti- 
cipating, as the people here seem earnest to turn our 
presence to account. 

Along with the other measures I have mentioned, 
has been combined one for putting an end to the 
usage, transmitted to the Circassians from their ances- 
tors, of schooling their dexterity in war by stealing 
from each other. We have long declaimed against 
what remains of this, as a bar in the way of their 
national prosperity. It is nearly extinguished in the 
north of Notwhatsh and the west of this province, 
where the oath now under discussion was taken 
three years ago ; and if the Shapsuk can now be 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



323 



prevailed on to follow the example thus set and 
to abandon this pernicious habit, our stay in the 
country will not have been in vain, although no other 
good should result from it ; since these two provinces 
will thus become, as the people themselves say, more 
firmly united than ever, and perhaps the good example 
may spread into the north of Abazak also. In the 
south it has already found footing. 

Our host here is ludicrously enamoured of his gun 
(a three-pounder), and deplores the exhaustion of the 
stock of powder he always [kept for it, thinking it 
the bulwark of defence for this valley. By his own 
account, he dreams of it constantly. 

He says he found once in the channels of the 
Khabl a lump of lead ore which he put in the fire 
and melted, but he has not been able to find more. 
He supposes it to have been brought down the stream 
from the hills. 

In some of those hills there are caverns, the ex- 
ternal openings to which are extremely small ; and 
our good old host gravely informed us that, in former 
times, it was said the inhabitants of these caverns 
were pigmies (or divs) who rode on hares*, wore 
chain-mail, and were armed with bows and arrows. 

I am sorry to learn that the Dalziel of the Russians 
(General Sass) has returned to head-quarters. The 
women and children may therefore expect hostilities 
to be recommenced against them. 

Amongst the other heterogeneous masses of which 
the Russian army is composed, are Tatars of Khazan, 



* M. de Marigni heard accounts of this race at Pshat 
y 2 



324 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



who of course desert to their co-religionists here 
whenever they can get an opportunity. 

A secret which concerns us has just transpired. I 
believe I mentioned that at the first great congress 
held at Adughum, part of the debate was rather 

stormy. Mr. L and I hearing that something 

was being asserted to the disparagement of Daud 
Bey, repaired immediately to the spot for the pur- 
pose of confronting his accuser. But it now appears 
that ourselves were the subject of debate, in conse- 
quence of another letter from Sefir Bey (besides the 
one I mentioned as bespeaking a good reception for us), 

and which a dragoman whom Mr. U had turned 

off for some crime had got the Bey to allow him to 
write (in his name, and to authenticate with his seal) ; 
of course giving a false account of the contents, 
which he could easily do as he had contrived to gain 
the confidence of his master. This letter asserted 
that we visited the country without authority from 
any one, and should therefore be turned out of it as 
Russian spies ; and the debate hinged on putting 
this recommendation into execution, for which 
Prince Pshemaff and some others voted. They were 
vehemently opposed however, and finally overcome, 
by Shamuz, Mensiir, and Ali-bL We have also been 
told here that the above-mentioned dragoman, imme- 
diately on being turned out of Mr. U 's service, 

proceeded to the Russian Chancellery. We may 
therefore presume the above trick to have been 
devised and paid for there. 

Lower A%ips, Friday, 2nd December. — On Mon- 
day we set out from the hamlet of our centenarian 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



325 



host at Khabl, where previous to our departure about 
100 persons were assembled. Almost all of them 
who had horses accompanied us ; and the scene, as 
they galloped down from the height on which the 
hamlet is perched, and deployed on the valley, utter- 
ing their war-screams, and firing their pistols, had 
for us something exciting in it, as the semblance of 
a fight— the reality of which we seemed doomed to 
scare away. 

A ride of an hour and a quarter over the wooded 
shoulders of a hill, whence we had an extensive view 
of the plain of the Kuban, brought us upon the very 
picturesque vale of the Azips, whose hills towards 
its source seemed clad with forests of greater growth 
than I have usually observed in this district, the 
population of which seems to have been sufficient to 
occupy, successively, every part of the country. 

Here too we entered, for the first time, upon the 
territory of the enemy, that is, of those who have not 
yet taken the national oath, and we were warned, 
consequently, to be in readiness at all times, lest an 
attack should be made upon us, the present chief 
apostles of reform. Under these circumstances it 
seemed to me somewhat odd that we had been 
allowed to advance before our army ; viz. a body of 
footmen who were to come from Khabl to burn the 
houses of those who may refuse to take the oath. But 
we have been now four days among these bad sub- 
jects, and still neither civil nor military proceedings 
are commenced, although there has been no lack of 
debating about them. The two hosts, to whose hos- 
pitality we have been entrusted, seem highly respect- 



326 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



able persons, and have treated us very kindly ; as for 
the enemy " non inventus est, 5 ' for the men are said 
to have absconded from the recusant hamlets, and to 
have sent off this morning 100 carts to the trading 
mart for salt, which seems as if they expected to be 
obliged to forego the trade and wished to make pro- 
vision beforehand. Mehmet EfFendi and others of 
our Notwhatsh escort are in despair ; but Shah an 
Gheri, who should best know his own province, 
appears confident of success, and says that we shall 
go forward to the frontier of Psadug ; endeavour 
to detach it also from trade with Russia, and " call 
upon it by their common faith to make common 
cause, in all respects, with these provinces." This 
chief appears a zealous friend of the independence 
of his country, and under the circumstances it is now 
placed in, it is certainly much to be regretted that 
more of those "born to command" are not here to 
aid him in his laudable endeavours. But the chief 
nobles of this province, excepting Ghuz Beg, are, 
as I have shown, irretrievably lost to it by their own 
folly. 

At the last hamlet we put up at, the affair between 
Shahan Gheri and Sim muz was tried, and the 
former, who was present, was adjudged to pay 
thirteen oxen for having despoiled the servant of the 
latter. The feud may therefore be considered as at 
an end, and the sons of the parties have been already 
in the friendly intercourse best suited to their youth* 
But another matter connected with it may still be 
agitated ; viz., the exaction from Shahan Gheri of 
the presents usually given on receiving a wife of the 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



327 



grade of the sister of Sharnuz, and on which it seems 
Indar-oku, the cousin of the latter, had insisted, for 
the honour of their fraternity. I think I have 
observed in other respects, that Indar-oku stickles 
for adherence to Circassian usages, while Kehri-ku 
seems disposed to introduce some of those of 
Turkey. 

For the first time, I have eaten here boiled gourd, 
and find it very good with milk, and not unlike the 
sweet potato. It must be highly nutritive, from its 
sweetness and farinaceous qualities. But the days 
of feasting are over for a time ; for we are now four 
days advanced in the fast of Ramazan, which we 
have determined to observe with the Circassians, so 
far as regards taking our meals by night ; both to 
suit their convenience, and to avoid jarring their 
feelings ; as we should be a grievous burden where- 
ever we went, if the unfortunate females had to cook 
for us during day, and for their countrymen during 
night. Besides that, our remnants could not be 
passed, as they always are, to two or three subordi- 
nate classes, till nought remains to be carried back to 
the family house but the tables. It happens so far 
well that the days of this moon are of the shortest. 
The moment the sun sets half-a-dozen tables are 
brought, to stay our more instant calls of hunger : a 
second repast is served at nine o'clock, and a third at 
three in the morning ; and fast as it is, Shahan 
Gheri told our host last night, that he must enter- 
tain us well, as he being a wealthy man can easily 
afford to do so, and ought to consider it an honour 
to have us for his guests. But this day-fasting has 



328 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



been with us entirely optional, as Nassu, previously 
to its commencement, said to us, " We know from 
the Turks who come among us, that it is allowed to 
travellers into another country to suspend their fasts ; 
and how much more allowable would it be for you to 
do so who have crossed fifty countries to visit this 
one ?" — and that, if we wished them to cook for us 
during the day, we had only to say so. 

In the sermon preached to-day at the mosk, the 
audience were prepared for the business of the ensu- 
ing week by an exposition of the nature and obliga- 
tions of an oath, and of the necessity of punishing 
those who violated it. 



LETTER XIV. 



TAKING THE OATH — PARTICULARS OF THE SECES- 
SION OF THE ABBATS TAUSCH, THE RUSSIAN 

EMISSARY THE TLEUSH, OR FRATERNITIES OF 

THE CIRCASSIANS — " A LOVE TALE." 

Khabl, 3rd December, 1837. 

My dear — . On Saturday morning I rode 

towards the hills to see a sick man who had sent to 
request a visit from me ; and having been joined 
by Mehmet Effendi, and others of our Notwhatsh 
friends, we halted on our way back on a green in 
front of a mosk, where a congress was about to be 
held. Some thirty persons were already on the 
ground, and a similar number arrived during my 
stay, which was short, as our presence had not been 
required. During this time, however, Shahan Gheri 
delivered a lively address, urgently pressing the 
immediate taking of the required oath, and declaring 
that he would rather shed his blood, than have the 
reflection attach to his province, that Englishmen 
who had come so far to aid them in the good work 
had been obliged to return without effecting any- 
thing. Some one having objected that more persons 
of influence were wanting from Notwhatsh ; and that 
their position might become dangerous if the recu- 
sants should gather in force against them ; " If we 
be honest in our intention," replied the enthusiastic 
Shahan, " there are enough here ; more cannot be 
wanted, but for the purpose of burning the houses of 



330 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



the evil-disposed ; if they make head against us, I 
shall be the first to charge them." 

Such was the pleasing intelligence I carried to my 
countrymen in the morning of the disposition of the 
people then assembled ; but evening brought with 
it news of a darker shade. Subsequent to my de- 
parture, many more people arrived ; the oath was 
again urgently pressed upon their attention, and it 
was recommended to them to treat us English hos- 
pitably, and to provide us better accommodation. 
Mutterings of dissent in regard to the oath were 
first uttered, and some individuals then waxing 
hotter, exclaimed, " Those Englishmen are the cause 
of that oath being forced upon us, and whoever 
receives them into his house, shall (according to a 
vulgar oath) have his mother dishonoured." Un- 
luckily for these malcontents, Mustafa, a tokav of 
Upper Azips, happened to be present. When 
lodging last week at his house we had been all struck 
first by his blunt demeanour, next by the quiet 
determination of his aspect, and lastly by his love of 
a joke. He treated us with kindness and liberal 
hospitality, and before we left his house he gave 
signs of having formed an attachment to us which 
now showed itself. No sooner had these traders or 
traitors uttered their invectives against us than 
Mustafa exclaimed, " I received these English, and 
they are true friends of the country ; " and, without 
further exordium, he drew his sabre, and rushed 
towards them. Some friends interposed, and per- 
suaded him to give up his sword, which he did, sub- 
stituting for it a big oak stave, with which he felled 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



331 



three to the ground, from which they were carried 
off pretty severely hurt. Others soon joined in the 
affray on both sides ; but our friends proved much 
the strongest, although none of those from Notwhatsh 
took part ; and it is certainly to the credit of the 
people that, although all were, as usual, armed, and 
the question a most important one, no deadly weapon 
was made use of. Sundry pistols were discharged, 
but this I presume was merely by way of heightening 
the relish of the row. 

Such indisposition having been shown by these 
people to entertain us further, Shahan Gheri de- 
clared that we should make his house our own, and 
remain there as long as we pleased. He forthwith 
sent a messenger to say so to us, promising that our 
horses (which consume hay to an extent that must be 
onerous to individuals) at all events should be abun- 
dantly fed, and it would go hard if he did not find 
wherewith to entertain ourselves also, though not he 
feared in proportion to our deserts. Gratified by 
this cordial invitation, we immediately packed up, 
not ill-pleased, moreover, to quit a house which 
seemed literally ready to tumble about our ears ; 
a landlord, who although he gave us sufficiency to 
eat, neither spoke nor looked a welcome, and the 
savage habit of making bed-fellows of our pistols 
every night. A newly-invented species of halter 
for stealing horses, which one of our servants here 
brought in to show us, convinced us moreover that 
this host must be adverse to that clause of the oath 
at least w T hich strikes at that ancient national usage. 

Our sole escort on removing were Yedig (a relative 



332 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



of Shahan Gheri), and the eldest son of Shamuz ; 
but our retrograde journey did not exceed an hour 
and a half, chiefly through open forest in the plain : 
pushing on quickly, we reached the hamlet in which 
we now are a little after sunset. Though the host was, 
and still is, absent about the important affair now in 
hand, we found everything in comfortable readiness for 
our reception, in a guest-house, as neatly constructed 
and well furnished as any almost we have seen. Our 
horses also seem likely to find the promise of good 
treatment kept ; and a stable, which holds them all, 
has been constructed expressly for them. 

We despatched Osman by daybreak this morning 
to learn what was going forward at the place of 
congress, previously to our sending him to endeavour 
to bring forward some of our friends from Notwhatsh. 
He has just returned, and he reports that affairs 
wear now a more promising aspect, and that hopes 
of success by peaceable means are again entertained. 
But he adds that Mustafa was again there, mounted 
on his black charger, and bearing, in addition to all 
his arms, a goodly sapling, for the purpose of per- 
suading recusants, and gainsaying any who might 
again venture to traduce the English. His only 
words are, " The oath must and shall be taken." We 
are quite disposed to echo them, and to aid in in- 
fluencing the adoption of strong measures if necessary; 
for it is said, if these malignants of Azips were over- 
come, the swearing in of the remainder of the pro- 
vince (of which there remain only four rivers or 
districts out of nine) will be comparatively easy 
work. What, among other things, we seek to put 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



333 



an end to, is not only illicit trade, but systematic 
seduction, by the instrumentality of that traitor 
Circassian noble — degraded into a Russian Colonel — 
who gives salt partly as a gratuity, and at an under 
rate, to those who bring wood and provisions to his 
quarters, and doubtless pours poison into their ears 
at the same time. 

teh. — Late last evening Shahan Gheri, Mehmet 
Effendi, and sundry others, arrived from the oath- 
meeting, and were in high spirits, especially the 
judge, who crowed with triumph ; and we so far 
responded, because all our late doubts and anxieties 
were relieved by the news they brought us of the 
people having at length come forward and made a 
tolerable beginning in taking the oath. Fifty had 
been sworn in the course of the day, confessing at 
the same time the crimes of which they had been 
guilty or had knowledge. Mehmet Effendi enter- 
tained us with a few specimens, embracing thefts of 
cattle and horses from their countrymen (chiefly of 
Notwhatsh), and traitorous communications with the 
General of the enemy. A messenger from Notwhatsh 
also arrived, bringing word that the people of that 
province who were to have come with us have set 
out to aid us. 

As this business is now likely to reach a successful 
termination, it may not be amiss to explain its nature 
more fully. It was originated about thirty years 
since by Kalabat-oku of the Tshupako fraternity — 
a chief of whose integrity, sagacity, energy, and 
courage, all speak in terms of the highest admiration. 
Considerable progress in the measure was made at 



334 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



that period, but time had weakened the effect of 
what had been done. The three days' visit and 
expostulations of Mr. Urquhart served to revive the 
undertaking ; and I doubt much if such an instance 
of influence obtained over a people by one individual, 
under such circumstances, and in so short a time, 
could be paralleled. The oath is to this effect : — " The 
jurant undertakes to remain true to his country, to 
hold no communication by trade, or in any other 
manner, with its enemies the Russians ; and to 
denounce those who do, and assist in their condem- 
nation and punishment; to abandon entirely the 
habit of stealing from his countrymen, and to inform 
against those who continue to do so, and to assist in 
their condemnation and punishment. He binds him- 
self, further, to make unreserved confession in regard 
to all acts at variance with these engagements in 
which he has participated, or which have come to his 
knowledge in time past." 

Mr. Urquhart was at Semez and at Hokkoi in the 
month of July 1834, and in the following month the 
administration of the oath was, through the influence 
of his recommendations, commenced at this very lo- 
cality (Khabl), under the direction of a large body of 
the Notwhatsh chiefs ; and was enforced from house 
to house (not without bloodshed) as far as Pshat. 
From that time nothing further was done, or even I 
believe attempted, until our arrival. In like manner 
on the coast to the south, where theft and feud per- 
vaded the land, nothing of this kind was done to 

arrest their progress until the arrival of Mr. 

(Nadir Bey), when all the neighbouring districts were 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



335 



summoned to send deputies to a congress, to be 
holden in the valley of Aguia, where he then resided. 
About a thousand persons assembled; and,in the three 
days during which they remained in congress, all the 
feuds between their fraternities and families — some 
of them of many years' standing — were finally com- 
pounded. The deputies, some of whom were from 
Abazak, swore for their respective districts an oath 
somewhat similar in purport to the one administered 
to individuals here. It was agreed, moreover, to raise 
by subscription a fund, out of which rewards should 
be given them for the discovery of treachery. The 

chiefs of the south told Mr. that his presence 

there had been of inestimable benefit, in enabling 
them to get carried into execution that valuable mea- 
sure, which henceforth, they said, would bind them 
all in a general bond of brotherhood. 

These instances may serve to prove the great de- 
sire there is among the well-disposed people of this 
country (who form a great majority) to introduce 
order and good government, and to obtain for their 
country, for these purposes, some general and supreme 
authority. It is this makes them grasp at such 
shadows of it as we are. At present, according to 
what we are told, we have been held like a rod in 
terrorem over the heads of the recusants here, who 
must be subdued, because they stand in the way of 
their well-disposed countrymen, for Kalabat-oku (son 
of the chief of that name I have just mentioned), who 
may be depended upon, and who asked leave to quit 
us for a few days, has just returned from the frontier 
of Psadug, bringing the agreeable report of what our 



336 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



young countrymen called, in fox-hunting phraseology, 
" a holla ahead ; " viz., that though at fault here, the 
people towards the east end of the province are all 
demanding eagerly to have the oath administered 
among them ; and they send word that if the people 
of this district refuse to take it, they will come and 
burn their houses. There appears, however, to be no 
danger of miscarriage now, for so many have already 
taken the oath, that the judge, it is said, has a house 
crammed with the articlesgiven in payment of thefines. 
One case that has been told us may serve to show the 
light in which this affair is viewed by a portion at least 
of the people. An individual who had taken the 
oath was called upon to declare, like the rest, what 
crimes he had of late been guilty of. He replied, he 
had none to make confession of, and was allowed to 
depart. Next morning, however, he made his ap- 
pearance, bearing as a peace-offering to the judge 
five or six measures of grain and a large basket of 
honeycomb, and stated that the devil (some good 
angel I rather think) had terrified him all night for 
the falsehood he had told, in concealing his crimes, of 
which he then made a frank confession. The con- 
sciences of others, however, are not so tender, or at 
least take a different direction, and lead them to bog- 
gle about binding their future conduct ; but for these 
persons, Mustafa is still in attendance, brandishing 
his cudgel in one hand, and pointing to the suspended 
Koran with the other, with a circle drawn around him, 
within which — a second Prospero with his magic book 
and wand — he calls to him the evil spirits and conjures 
them into obedience. 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



337 



5th. — Zepsh has just returned from his mission to 
Notwhatsh, and reports that a number of the elders 
of that province will immediately set out to join us 
here. Mensur's foot, he says, is all healed but a bit 
about the size of one's ringer. During the last 
twenty years it has never been so well as at present, 
and he expects its entire cure in about ten days, and 
his delight and gratitude are said to be extreme. 
This, if true, will indeed be a gratification, and must, 
from the universal estimation Mensur is held in, win 
us many friends. 

Zepsh reports that a day's fighting has taken place 
with the Russian wood-cutters on the hills above 
the vale of Anapa, where we lodged, on our way 
here. There was no great loss on either side, and 
the only thing remarkable was an interpreter, on the 
part of the Russians, asking why they were inter- 
rupted in cutting down that wood, since they had 
bought it of the owner ! The judge, overhearing 
this, says, if it be true, that individual may say his 
prayers, as his days are numbered. The Russians, 
by this and some other incidents, show that they still 
reckon upon a disjointed anti-national state of affairs, 
which I am glad to say is rapidly passing away. In 
a similar manner, when they had forced the Turks 
to cede Anapa and Sujuk-Kaleh, they demanded 
from the Circassians permission to pass from Anapa 
to the latter place for the purpose of taking posses- 
sion, which the Circassians of course refused, adding 
that they would do all in their power to oppose 
them. 

7th.— One of the few nobles of this province called 

VOL. I. Z 



338 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



on us the other evening, but, understanding that he 
had been to the mart for salt, we gave him a cold 
reception. He repeated his visit, however, and told 
us, that he came for the purpose of informing us 
that he had some Russian prisoners whom he wished 
to exchange for Circassians, and that he was anxious 
to give us this notice of his intention and purpose 
for going to the Russian frontier, lest we might think 
he had any treachery in view. 

There was a marriage in this neighbourhood a few 
evenings ago, to which our two young Poles begged 
leave to go, expecting some amusement ; but they 
soon returned, and reported that no dancing was 
allowed on account of the prevailing fast. Among 
Mussulmans, the original meaning of the word fast 
is still regarded ; and, from sunrise to sunset, all but 
sick folks and children observe the strictest abstinence, 
not even wetting their lips with a drop of water. 
But the smokers, the eternal smokers, have most of 
my pity and interest, in seeing them, so soon as the 
slow-paced sun is fairly set, rushing with their pipes 
to the fire, like the pilgrims of the desert to a 
fountain. It is pity of those who carry watches in 
these days, for they are in incessant requisition, 
especially towards evening. 

Our warm-hearted host here seems earnest in his 
endeavours at reconciliation with his brother-in-law ; 
his son has presented his cousin with a rifle, and the 
servant, who with the latter was about to take 
vengeance on him, has been despatched to Semez, to 
present to his master a horse said to be the most 
valuable in the two provinces. 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



339 



Tuesday, 12th. — For some weeks past the weather 
has been in general foggy and cold, and the wind 
from the east. Yesterday, however, winter showed 
himself unequivocally; it snowed during the day, 
covering the ground to the depth of nearly a foot ; 
and, towards evening, an arch of clear sky in the 
north, and two large flights of wild geese, told the 
approach of a frosty wind from that quarter, which 
came accordingly, and with such effect that ink in a 
bottle under my pillow was quite frozen, as was 
water this morning on our floor, within four feet of 
the immense fire, which burns night and day. 

Being here amid the ancient possessions of the 
members of the Abbat fraternity, we have been 
endeavouring to learn the truth regarding that dark 
episode in the history of this province— their expul- 
sion. But the task is difficult, as it is evident that 
many of the tokavs view this incident as a triumph 
of their class ; while our other informants, the nobles, 
consider the treatment of the Abbats as cruel and 
unjust, and date from that period the loss of a large 
portion of the consideration and influence they for- 
merly enjoyed. This fraternity consists of about 
eight families, who are of almost princely rank; 
were exceedingly wealthy, and had numerous re- 
tainers and slaves. They are acknowledged to have 
been among the bravest of their countrymen and 
always foremost in battle, as was the case in a great 
action that took place on the plain of Anapa, pre- 
viously to the surrender of that fortress ; where the 

Circassians mustered in great force for its relief, and 

z 2 



340 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



were led to a desperate charge against the Russians 
by the Abbats with their crimson standard. 

One of the immediate causes of their exile dates so 
far back as the period now spoken of, the ultimate 
cession of Anapa to the Russians by the Turks. Im- 
mediately after this, the Circassians sent an embassy 
to the Porte, consisting of Besni (the chief and most 
influential of the Abbats), Hatukwoi of Ghelenjik, 
and Tshorat-oku Hamuz, a tokav of whom I have 
spoken. Besni is said to have been a person of great 
mental capacity, who took a lead in all the affairs of 
the province, and who, as well as the other members 
of the fraternity, always showed great conduct and 
courage in war. As senior member of the mission 
to the Porte, and still more as of much higher rank 
than even Hatukwoi, precedence was, according to 
the usages of his country, his undoubted right, and 
not disputed by the other. Hamuz, however, thought 
proper to make it the subject of a violent quarrel, 
arguing for Mussulman equality ; and forgetful of 
the intimate friendship, which had for years pre- 
vailed between them, he conceived a deadly hatred 
against Besni for having asserted his right of pre- 
cedence, and consequently received the chief presents 
bestowed by the Turks on the occasion. The object 
of the mission was to obtain the countenance and 
aid of the Porte against Russia; and this having 
failed, Hamuz insinuated that the failure was attri- 
butable to the disparagement thrown by Besni upon 
his countrymen in his conversations with the Turks ; 
while Hatukwoi, on being applied to, professed ig- 
norance of any such disparagement having been 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



341 



uttered. In this doubtful position the question re- 
mained until about four years and a half ago, when 
a brother of Besni, on some of his slaves escaping 
into Russia, applied to the Russian authorities to 
have them restored ; which being granted, he went 
by appointment into the fortress of Anapa to obtain 
restitution. As a return for this service, he was 
requested to receive a visit in his province from 
M. de Marigny's interpreter, Tausch (called by the 
Circassians Carlo, formerly a politico-mercantile 
emissary, and now a major in the Russian service), 
and another person, said to have been an officer of 
engineers. With this extraordinary request — whe- 
ther through easiness of disposition or treachery — he 
unfortunately complied. 

These spies he took across the country to Pshat, 
(on which occasion it is supposed the localities of the 
forts of Abun and Nicolaefski were fixed on,) and 
kept them for some days in his hamlet. The people 
of the neighbourhood immediately rose en masse 
to take vengeance on the traitor ; his fraternity 
assembled for his defence, insisting that he should 
be regularly tried ; and thus the two parties stood 
confronting each other, when word was secretly con- 
veyed to the Abbats that preparations were being 
made to surround and destroy them. In consequence 
of this, four families made their escape across the 
Kuban to the island, where they have since remained ; 
two fled to Besni ; and one has been allowed to 
remain in Abazak. The wife of Besni, by some 
accident, fell into the hands of the now deadly enemy 
of her huband, Hamuz; while the greater portion of 



342 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



the very numerous serfs, cattle, and flocks of the frater- 
nity fell a prey to its opponents. Besni soon planned 
and effected the recapture of his wife ; and they had 
nearly arrived at the Kuban, when they fell into the 
hands of some of the hostile party, who brought them 
back prisoners. Besni now loudly demanded that the 
innocent should not be confounded with the guilty ; 
that he should be tried by his countrymen formally ; 
and if found guilty, he declared himself willing to 
submit to death or any other punishment. One judge 
interposed in his favour, for which he and his family 
have since been obliged to remove to Turkey; and so 
excited were the people that they persisted in involv- 
ing Besni in the guilt of his brother, although it is 
acknowledged that he was absent from their hamlet 
when the Russians were received there. But he and 
his wife were saved from destruction by Noghai of 
Abun-bashi, a very enterprising-looking tokav, who 
secretly made his way by night into the house where 
Hamuz had confined his prisoners ; broke Besni's 
chains (for he was chained by his old friend), and 
carried both into Notwhatsh ; most of the chiefs of 
which province with whom we have conversed upon 
this melancholy affair, condemn the conduct of the 
people of Shapsuk. A party of the latter subse- 
quently attempted to punish Noghai ; but he was 
defended by his fraternity, With the Notwhatsh 
chiefs Besni and his wife for some months found 
protection ; but this appearing likely to produce a 
feud between the two provinces, the protecting chiefs 
conveyed thern^ by way of Abazak, into Psadug, 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



343 



whence they regained the island to which others of 
the fraternity had fled. 

Many individuals in this province, and still more 
in Notwhatsh, appearing convinced of the injustice of 
making the rest of the fraternity suffer for the crime 
of an individual ; and all being obliged to admit that, 
up to the period of that crime, no fraternity in Cir- 
cassia stood in higher estimation for patriotism and 
courage, I cannot help thinking that the affair might 
have been arranged upon some broader basis of jus- 
tice, had not Hamuz and others of his class desired 
the degradation and expulsion of these nobles, for 
the purpose, apparently, of increasing their own 
influence : and the diabolical spirit that, in part at 
least, actuated Hamuz is proved by his having taken 
opportunity of the wife of Besni being in his power 
to violate her person. This being viewed (as it is 
in connexion with the disparity of rank of the parties) 
as an almost indelible affront, constitutes one of the 
greatest items of grievance the Abbats suffer under ; 
for in a debate that took place at the time in Not- 
whatsh upon the affair in general, it was agreed that 
until this affront was redressed, it w r ould be deroga- 
tory of the dignity of these nobles to return among 
their countrymen ; and thus has a wound, which 
might soon have been healed at first had it received 
a vigorous, skilful, and just treatment, now become 
apparently an incurable political gangrene, which 
seems to render necessary the complete amputation 
of a valuable member of this social body; for the 
injuries that have since been inflicted on both sides 
are such as to destroy all hope of true reconciliation. 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA, 



Hamuz, from opulence, has been reduced to a medium 
condition by forays upon his large stock of horses 
and cattle ; other successful forays have been made 
by the Abbats ; and, what is infinitely worse, some 
of them are said to have been with the Russians 
during their last year's invasion. On the other hand, 
the people of this province have, in addition to the 
injuries at first inflicted on the Abbats, ever since 
treated those on the island as their most deadly ene- 
mies, and are at present planning their extermina- 
tion. Subsequently also to the attack I have spoken 
of upon a party of them who were hunting on this 
bank of the Kuban, a Shapsuk man made his way 
into the house, where one of them lay a wounded 
prisoner, and drawing a dagger from his sleeve he 
stabbed the Abbat twice with it and escaped — a 
trait of treacherous cruelty, as the narrator said, quite 
foreign to the Circassian character. 

The above seems to be the most consistent account 
of this affair ; others however are given, as for in- 
stance, that the Abbats were not compelled to fly 
for their lives, but that they voluntarily left the 
province on account of the insult perpetrated against 
Besni's wife ; while, in regard to this, it is said that 
she, as well as Hamuz, declared her readiness to 
swear that no such insult was offered. He affirms he 
can otherwise prove this, and that he circulated the 
report to the contrary only for the purpose of widen- 
ing the breach. 

Since coming into this province I have learned that 
the Circassian who soon after my arrival at Semez 
caused such urgent application to be made to me for 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



345 



my procuring his restitution among his countrymen 
upon any terms they chose to prescribe, was one of 
these unfortunate Abbats. I learn that four others, 
in like manner, then desired my interference. I 
earnestly hope means may yet be found for rescuing 
the members of this fraternity who may be found 
innocent from their present deplorable condition ; but 
great difficulty attends the interference of strangers in 
an affair in which the passions of a multitude have 
been so fearfully excited. 

Associating with these Abbats, and inhabiting 
the same neighbourhood, are fifteen families of 
nobles, also of high grade, constituting the fraternity 
of Janat. A prince of that name has lately gone 
there also. This fraternity, for w T hat reason I have 
as yet been unable to discover, emigrated some years 
since from the west of Shapsuk to Psadug, and has 
only of late moved into its present critical position, 
which hostile measure seems to imply that it also has 
grievances to retaliate on the people of this province. 
But these modern Coriolani must not be permitted to 
seek redress through the ruin of their country. 

Having spoken of Tausch, I may give you a slight 
sketch of his history, as it affords some insight of the 
serpent path of Russian conquest. 

Tausch is an Austrian subject (and thus a traitor 
to the interests of his native country). During the 
essay (made at the recommendation of the Due de 
Richelieu, and on his part perhaps sincerely) of 
gaining the friendship of the Circassians by trading 
with them, Tausch made his first appearance in 
Circassia as a merchant, and displayed such extra- 



346 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



ordinary liberality in his dealings and courtesy in 
his intercourse, that he made friends wherever he 
went. He was thus enabled during many years to 
visit most of the northern part of Circassia, and to 
acquire the language perfectly. His quasi-mercantile 
projects were of course put an end to on the outbreak 
of the present war in 1829. Shortly thereafter he 
succeeded in seducing the Abbat, as above men- 
tioned, to escort him and the engineer along the very 
route which General WilliaminefF and his army 
afterwards pursued. Tausch accompanied him also, 
as he has accompanied the invading armies of every 
subsequent year. He is generally the chief spokes- 
man when any of his former acquaintance make 
their appearance at Russian head-quarters for ex- 
change of prisoners, or such other affairs ; and, in 
order probably to give him importance in the eyes of 
these people, he now appears in the insignia and 
grade of a Russian major. The Circassians call him 
Carlo ; and I have heard some few speak of him even 
yet as if they believed him still their friend. 

144 h. — The administration of the oath goes briskly 
on ; but it seems likely to be a business of more time 
and labour than we at first anticipated. All, even 
serfs, from fifteen years upwards, are sworn, and 
every one who has committed theft has not only to 
make restitution, but is also fined six hundred piastres 
(nearly six pounds) for each delinquency, which 
fines constitute the fees of the judge and the other 
members of the commission. 

It may well be conceived that those who have thus 
to regorge and be fined in addition, should show dis- 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



347 



inclination, especially when it is recollected that the 
hereditary prejudice of the people was favourable to 
adroit theft ; yet Subesh (another of our escort), who 
has been to the eastern frontier of the province, and 
has just returned, confirms the report of the people in 
that direction being eager to have the oath adminis- 
tered to them, and the bad subjects among them 
thus brought under restraint. It is to be hoped, 
therefore, that when this large and peculiarly vicious 
neighbourhood is done with, the work will proceed 
rapidly and smoothly. 

15th. — The Circassian word for the societies or fra- 
ternities is " tleush," which signifies also "seeds."* 
The tradition with regard to them is, that the mem- 
bers of each all sprang from the same stock or ancestry ; 
and thus they may be considered as so many septs or 
clans, with this peculiarity— that, like seeds, all are 
considered equal. These cousins-germ an, or mem- 
bers of the same fraternity, are not only themselves 
interdicted from intermarrying, but their serfs too 
must wed with the serfs of another fraternity ; and 
where, as is generally the case, many fraternities 
enter into one general bond, this law, in regard to 
marriage, must be observed by all. All who are 
thus bound together have the privilege of visiting 
the family-houses of each other on the footing of 
brothers, which seems to me only to make matters 
worse, unless they can all bring their minds to look 
upon the females of their fraternity as their very 



* The phrase, however, in common use, on meeting a stranger, for 
instance, is to ask him to what " Ashish," or family, he belongs. 



348 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



sisters, otherwise this privilege of entree must be the 
source of many a hopeless or criminal passion. 

We have here under our eyes a proof that such 
consequences must proceed from the prohibition. 
The confidential dependant or steward of our host 
here is a tokav who fled to his protection from Not- 
whatsh ; because, having fallen in love with and 
married a woman of his own fraternity, he had 
become liable to punishment for this infraction of 
Circassian law. Yet his fraternity contained perhaps 
several thousand members. Formerly such a mar- 
riage was looked upon as incest, and punished by 
drowning ; now a fine of two hundred oxen, and 
restitution of the wife to her parents, are only 
exacted. The breaches of this law therefore are 
not now uncommon. 



LETTER XV. 



A MAN WITHOUT A GUN — CIRCASSIAN PRAYER- 
MEETINGS THE MRS. GLASS OF CIRCASSIA — ■ 

MENSUR AND HIS WAR-STORIES — MOHAMMEDANS 

THE RADICALS OF CIRCASSIA THE TWELVE 

CONFEDERATE PROVINCES OF CIRCASSIA STRANGE 

CONDUCT OF SHAMUZ MODES OF EMANCIPATING 

SERFS — DOUBTS AND DIFFICULTIES — HISTORY AND 
PRODUCTIONS OF SHAPSUK. 

Tshtkahuz, 2lst December, 1837. 

My dear ~. A report of the relapse of our 

patient Mensur having reached us at Khabl, it was 
resolved that one of us should visit and advise him 
about his foot and general health, and solicit in 
return advice about sundry affairs of state, he being 
by general consent admitted to be the first man in 
the provinces both for counsel and action. On this 
errand I set out on Friday the 15th, accompanied by 
Subash and three servants ; but our progress on the 
first day was slow, for 1 5 degrees of thaw had made a 
marsh of the plain, and the Khabl having overflowed 
his banks, was to be met running at random over all 
the roads and pathways of the neighbouring forest ; 
while the evident depth and strength of his main 
current, kept us skirting along his willowy bank in 
search of a ford, to which a hunter we met at length 
directed us. 

This man was on foot, armed with a rifle, and 
attended by two dogs, somewhat like a cross between 



350 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



our Highland colley and the greyhound. He was in 
search of hares, one of which was started, and all 
four were soon lost to us amid the woods, the man 
screaming to excite the dogs, and they, so far, holding 
their distance better than I expected. 

After a three hours' ride we alighted at one of the 
hamlets of Bochundiir, because the country for a 
considerable distance on each side of the A bun has 
been deserted since the establishment of the forts 
and the frequent passage of Russian armies with 
provisions for them ; and if, as was supposed, that 
river was found unfordable, we should have been 
overtaken by night before we could reach a habitation 
in returning. 

Having given away two guns I brought with me, 
and not having yet got another, I am, it would 
appear, like the wolf in the fable who lost his tail, 
an object of general wonder, which so soon as I had 
alighted here was thus expressed by a little boy : — 
" Who is that ?" " A stranger." " But what kind 
of a man is he, for I never before saw a man on horse- 
back without a gun ?" 

Here was a Mollah of a noble family, hired by our 
host to say prayers in his family during Ramazan. 
During this season wherever a Mollah lodges, all the 
males in the hamlet who say prayers assemble at 
sunset to say them along with him ; and this scene 
on one or two occasions in our large room at Khabl 
was not a little impressive and picturesque. On one 
side was placed a man holding a blazing pine-wood 
torch. In a corner stood the oldest Mollah on his 
mat, alone, with his face to Mecca, while behind him 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



351 



were ranged, diagonally, two dense rows of worship- 
pers, among whom a younger Mollah acted as Muez- 
zin, chanting as a prologue the usual call from the 
minaret, which was followed by the elder one, chant- 
ing, somewhat musically, the prayer-service, all kneel- 
ing and rising simultaneously with him. 

The second night we put up at the hamlet of a 
wealthy tokav in Godowhai. A small hill on one 
side of this beautiful little valley was shown me as 
the site of an ancient fortress; on reaching the sum- 
mit I found it level, and encircled by what appeared 
the ruin of a stone rampart. 

But this valley possesses another though more 
transient object of interest in the wife of my host, of 
whose fame, as the Mrs. Glass of Circassia, I had 
previously heard, and whose pastry, soup, and stew, 
amply justified it, and proved her worthy to cook for 
a Parisian. The tasteful furnishing of her guest- 
house ; the tidiness of her husband's dress and equip- 
ments (so dependent here upon the activity of the 
wife, who is at once tailor, shoemaker, hatter, semp- 
stress, and embroiderer) ; and above all her fame in 
gastronomy, made me curious to know something 
of her history, when I found that she had received 
her education in Anapa. But the cup of her hus- 
band is not without the usual drop of the gall of 
humanity ; for severe and frequent headach is the , 
penalty he suffers for indulgence in her luxurious 
feeding. 

Soon after my arrival my Polish servant intro- 
duced to me a countryman of his, a lively strong 
young man ; and next morning I was happy to learn 



352 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



that my brave and hospitable host had just struck 
hands with him, promising him his freedom in two 
years, ct because he is a Pole ! " A Russian deserter 
from Anapa was here also shown me — a Narses in 
manhood if not in war, and I learned, with some 
satisfaction (seeing that the population of Russia is 
so misapplied), that the religious sect this man 
belongs to is numerous, there being many entire 
regiments of them, and in Anapa about 400. The 
object in deserting of this, and many such beings, is 
to be sent into Turkey, where they are very much 
respected, or at least prized. He, like the rest, hopes 
to reach Jerusalem, but he may perhaps have a less 
bright destiny, and, instead of viewing "the beau- 
tiful gate of the temple," end his days at the gate of 
a Harem ! 

I found the foot of our patient, Mensur Bey, much 
as I had left it ; perhaps a little better ; and, if it had 
suffered a relapse after being better still, he had only 
himself to blame, for, during the first storm of winter 
which we had ten days ago, upon a report that mares 
he has feeding near the Kuban were missing, he had 
mounted his horse, and gone to look after them. 

None but the poorest ever ride on mares, and of 
so little value are they accounted, that herds of them 
are left to roam at large, winter and summer, in the 
woods on the Kuban, and to find food and safety as 
they best can, for there are wolves also in the woods, 
and by them Mensur's stock has latterly been much 
diminished. 

He was at one time one of the richest men in the 
province ; but the plague having swept off his wife, 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



353 



and his numerous serfs, he became indifferent to the 
possession of property, and bestowed the greater part 
of what he had upon friends or followers in war. 

The administration of the national oath, three 
years since, was originated by him ; he expresses 
great satisfaction at its renewal, and, warrior as he is, 
says that it is a thousand times preferable to any war 
exploit that could be devised, and will preserve the 
country for many years to come. " While the soul 
is in my mouth," said he in the Turkish phrase, 
" this country shall never be ceded to Russia ; when 
I die, they may do as they please." His energy, 
singleness of heart, and firmness of purpose, I think 
highly calculated to give effect to his determination. 

While talking of the slow progress of the oath- 
congress, I happened to use as an argument for its 
being urged on, the possibility that the letter we 

expected by Mr. 's vessel, might make it 

indispensable for us all three to depart in her, which 
he construed into an intention to abandon them, and 
this immediately produced a breeze of excitement, in 
which he exclaimed, suiting the action to the words, 
" If England and Turkey abandon us, we shall burn 
our houses and property, cut off the heads of our 
women and children, and retire to the high rocks, 
and there defend ourselves till the last man fall ! " 

Among some of his old war-stories, he told me of 
an action that had taken place at Abun three years 
since, when the Russians were on their way to com- 
mence the construction of the fort since established 
on that river. Their army amounted to 14,000 men, 
escorting many waggons of provisions and materials ; 

VOL. I. A A 



354 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



that of the Circassians under himself and Ghuzel Beg, 
did not exceed 700. They lay in ambush in a wood 
waiting for the passing of the Russians, and an ani- 
mated debate being held on the mode of attack, the 
people of Shapsuk under Ghuzel Beg, (not himself I 
feel sure) voted for the use of their rifles, while 
Mensur and his men said they must rush suddenly 
among the Russians with their sabres, and either 
achieve something or perish. This determination — 
desperate as it appears — was approved of, and acted 
upon by the majority, consisting chiefly of men of 
this province, aided by Ghuzel Beg, and a few of his 
Shapsuk men ; while the rest, to the number of about 
150, retired, and stood aloof to behold an act of what 
they perhaps deemed certain self-martyrdom. Such, 
however, it did not prove to the whole of the 500 
who joined in the attack. About 150 were slain, 
and the rest — after some very severe fighting — actu- 
ally succeeded in capturing, and bearing off, seven of 
the baggage waggons ! The heroism and cowardice 
displayed on this occasion, are treated of in the song 
sent you. 

He mentioned also a very successful foray he 
had made about the same time into Russia, at the 
head of 500 horse, and 400 footmen, when they 
almost entirely destroyed a body of cavalry sent 
against them ; forced one of infantry to retire, and 
returned bearing off the entire spoil of nine villages, 
— men, women, and children, and several thousand 
head of cattle. But it must not be supposed that 
the Circassians monopolise this predatory warfare. 
Indeed, Klaproth says that the Russians have gene- 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 355 

rally been the first aggressors, of which Mensur now 
gave me an instance in a foray made into his 
neighbourhood, some fifteen years since, by a Russian 
general, (Vlassov, according to Marigny,) who, on 
account of his being bereft of his nose, the Circassians 
called 6 Manca.'* He bore off a considerable booty, 
and among it the daughters of one of the Kalabat- 
okus (him of whom I have spoken), and whom 
Monsieur de Marigny erroneously styles, " Puissant 
Prince." 

The success of this foray might be owing to its 
being totally unlooked for, because their ally the 
Sultan being then at peace with Russia, no invasion 
of her territory was permitted by the Circassians, and 
consequently none of theirs expected. Mensur there- 
fore undertook to go and demand an explanation 
of this conduct. Upon being ushered into the pre- 
sence of the " epauletted general," as Mensur calls 
him, he was asked who he was, and replied that he 
had come to learn why such an unprovoked attack 
had been made upon his countrymen. The general 
answered insolently, to the effect that he hated the 
Circassians, and wished to work their destruction. 
Upon this Mensur grasped his sabre, and was about 
to make it speak for him, when the general hastily 
interposed, through his interpreter ; " I only joked, 
my brave fellow ;" and to Mensur's threat, that unless 
he made his countrymen speedy and ample restitu- 
tion he was but a lost man, he made a civil and 
soothing reply. In a short time thereafter ample 



* Quere — If this word be of Genoese origin ? 

A A 2 



356 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



restitution was made of all the captives ; and, so far 
as money can compensate, for those slain or wounded 
also. But no restitution was made to the provinces 
to the east of Shapsuk, though in them the forays 
of that general had been numerous and destructive ; 
and it might be difficult to find, in the intricate web 
of Russian policy, the motive for the line of distinc- 
tion here drawn, had not her acts in general afforded 
us the master-key to her foreign policy — " Divide et 
impera." 

Manca was recalled from this frontier (or, as the 
Circassians think, banished), but his place has been 
more than filled by another freebooting general, Sass, 
one of those German renegades to civilisation and 
good government, who, for the sake of imperial 
favour, press forward " in prim is ordinibus," to extend 
the dominion of Muscovite supremacy and darkness ; 
as Milton says, " Hardy and industrious to support 
tyrannic power." This man is exceedingly active 
and enterprising. He has formed a corps, dressed, 
armed, and exercised, " d la Tcherkesse." It is 
partly made up of Russians, and partly of all the 
traitors and other runagates of Circassian origin he 
can lay his hands on. It is he who has struck terror 
into, and paralysed, the provinces on the Kuban, to 
the eastward of Shapsuk, which are open and practi- 
cable to the operations of an army ; and in all of which 
there are large villages. On these he has pounced 
suddenly (often by night), with light artillery and 
his infantry mounted, and borne off men, women, and 
children into captivity. He has given even Abazak 
a specimen of what it may expect if it join actively 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



357 



in the war, and made one attempt upon these two 
provinces some years ago, but he retired after having 
reached Abun, whether on account of the determined 
opposition he met, or of instructions he had re- 
ceived, I know not. The absence of large villages 
unfit these provinces, in a great measure, for success 
in his mode of warfare. It was he (not General 
Willi am inerT), whom the young Prince Pshughui 
charged and despoiled of his war-horse, as narrated 
in the song I translated. 

In the provinces to the eastward, the princes and the 
higher class of nobles still possess considerable power 
over their own serfs, even that of life and death, and 
-of transference by sale to others, when they have 
committed crimes. They also preside at public trials 
and decide upon the fines to be imposed upon persons 
who commit offences ; but these fines, and also the 
proceeds of the sale of culprits as slaves, by way of 
punishment, are appropriated as here. They raise 
no revenue from the people. Some of these chiefs 
still indulge in one of the ancient privileges of "their 
order"; that of assembling for exploits of plunder, 
either in neighbouring provinces or in Russia (not- 
withstanding their quasi peace with her), having 
their faces masked for fear of discovery, and speaking 
together a language not understood by others, or per- 
haps a mere "slang" of the craft, to prevent the in- 
trusion of the uninitiated. 

The fraternities of these provinces are on much the 
same footing as the same associations here. 

It is said that in Abazak, Shapsuk, and Not- 
whatsh, no such power as I have mentioned above 



358 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



was ever possessed by the chiefs ; but I do not alto- 
gether believe this assertion of the tokavs; espe- 
cially as it is not supported by the testimony of the 
nobles here. There is no doubt, however, that what 
power was possessed by the chiefs of the two latter 
provinces in particular has been on the wane for a 
considerable time, and that the Pasha of Anapa con- 
tributed much to break it down bv his exhortations 

■/ 

to the people to imitate the Turkish Mussulmans in 
establishing entire equality, in conformity with the 
declaration of the Koran, that all men are equal in 
the sight of God. 

I find here a mussulman observance (equally un- 
questionable with the above mussulman axiom) pre- 
valent to a considerable degree ; viz. that of giving 
a portion of one's possessions to the poor at this 
season. It is collected by the mollahs (not entirely 
as a free-will offering and token of good mussulman- 
ship), and a portion is intended for their behoof. 
Whether they deal honestly by the remainder I 
cannot say ; but the donors may choose as treasurers 
those mollahs in whom they have most confidence* 
Some also further imitate the Turks in feasting great 
numbers of the poor during the nights of the fast 
of Ramazan. 

In the provinces in which the chiefs have re- 
tained their power, the population is said to be the 
most orderly and most thoroughly mussulman, and 
to hold in as great aversion, as those now at war, any 
idea of subjugation to Russia. 

After Osman Pasha had betrayed Anapa to the 
Russians, and Turkey had submitted to the terms 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



359 



dictated to her in the treaty of Adrianople — by 
which, among real sacrifices on her part, she was 
constrained, as regards Circassia, to go through the 
forms of ceding that which she had never owned ; 
viz. " tout le littoral de la Mer Noire" — the Circas- 
sians became convinced that for them the chief, if not 
the only hope, dwelt in " native swords and native 
ranks." They made preparation, therefore, to continue 
alone the war with Russia. For this purpose Sefir Bey, 
the most distinguished of their Princes, Hadji-oku 
Mehmet, their chief judge, and other persons of rank 
and influence, set out on a tour through the pro- 
vinces. In each province they were met by a con- 
gress of delegates, specially chosen, who took oath 
for their respective communities, that they would 
remain faithful to each other, and would reject what- 
ever terms of submission Russia might propose, unless 
under their general concurrence and sanction. At 
the same time they constituted the Prince and the 
J udge their ambassadors for endeavouring to procure 
foreign aid ; and the former their plenipotentiary for 
remaining abroad in prosecution of that object. A 
special condition was made, I believe, for the consent, 
or even presence of Sefir Bey, before any change 
could be made in the terms of the convention. He 
has been absent about seven years; and as he shows no 
symptom of a disposition to return under present cir- 
cumstances (which cannot be construed into an evi- 
dence of fear, as on all hands he is admitted to be one 
of the bravest of the brave), he may remind us of the 
lawgiver who swore his subjects to remain obedient 
to his laws until his return, and then quitted his 



360 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



country for ever. The following are the twelve pro- 
vinces that combined in this league, and in investing 
Sefir Bey as their ambassador; viz. Notwhatsh, 
Shapsuk, Abazak, Psadug, Temigui, Hatukwoi, 
Makhosh, Besni, Bashlibai, Teberdeh, Braki, and 
Karatshai*. 

If England, or any other European power hostile 
to the aggression of Russia, should determine on 
erecting here the best of all barriers to her, it would 
cost but a trifling exertion to rally the whole of the 
Caucasian populations round one common standard, 
from their community of interests, of religion (ex- 
cepting, in this respect only, Georgia), and of man- 
ners and habits; and the twelve provinces I have 
specified may be considered as a nucleus already pre- 
pared for the aggregation of the others. 

In Besni, which is an exceedingly populous, fer- 
tile, and beautiful province (as are all those situated 
on the north of the mountain range) there is a large 
ancient stone edifice, still habitable, with eleven 
doors ; yet tradition is mute as to the purpose for 
which it was erected. 

Here I have had a most gratifying triumph over 
two diseases and one Circassian doctor, and have 
reaped, moreover, the lively gratitude of a numerous 
and kind family. Soon after our arrival last night, 
at a late hour (for we had lost our way amid the fog 
and mountain pathways), I learned that Psadjwe 
Pshemaff, our host — who is nearly eighty years of age 
■ — whose reverend person and efficient aid 1 had missed 
for some time back, was confined to bed and danger- 
ously ill of fever and ague, under which he had suf- 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



361 



fered for several months ; and that one of his sons ? 
a very intelligent-looking married man, had got 
no rest, night or day, for about a week, from a violent 
diarrhoea, brought on, apparently, by an over dose 
of melon-seed-oil, given him by a Circassian doctor. 
The son was soon relieved, to the infinite delight of 
his brother, whose attachment to him is so great that 
he had watched night and day by his bed-side during 
his illness, and who, now that he sees it abated, has 
become as indefatigable in his attention to me — ■ 
making his way backwards and forwards through 
the deep mud that lies between our houses to divide 
his services between us. Nor were the first effects 
of European treatment less remarkable in the case 
of the father ; who, when I visited him last night, 
was quite unconscious of my presence, owing to the 
delirium in which he then lay, and who has notwith- 
standing been paying me a visit, in defiance of the se- 
vere snow-storm that is setting in, to testify, in most 
friendly terms, his high sense of the benefits his 
country has derived from the presence and advice of 
us Englishmen ; the gratitude of himself and family 
for my services ; his fear that their concern about 
him had prevented my receiving due attention ; and 
his desire that I should not set out in such inclement 
weather. Yesterday it blew a heavy gale from the 
S.W. accompanied by rain ; and to-day there is a 
gale from the S.S.W. with snow. 

The manners of this old tokav are superior to 
those of most of his class, who, in this respect, are 
somewhat inferior to the nobles ; which is the more 
remarkable as they associate intimately together. 



362 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



PshemafFs leaving his sick bed to visit me in the 
guest-house must, in part, be attributed to his strong 
sense of the duties of hospitality. I have, however, 
declined his invitation to prolong my stay, and 
gloomy as the weather looks from those hill-tops, 
must set out. 

Those who intend to travel in the East, should be 
aware that a knowledge of everything will be ex- 
pected from them- — especially a knowledge of medi- 
cines; and that by dispensing a few of the simplest and 
least hazardous (never forgetting quinine and lancets), 
and imparting instructions as to their use, they may 
do much good and win many friends. 

Aghsmug, Christmas. — I have just been to Semez 
for a couple of days, whence I wrote letters to be 
despatched by one of two vessels about to sail for 
Turkey. The opportunity to communicate with my 
friends at a distance was one inducement to the ex- 
cursion ; but it also seemed advisable that I should 
make a detour to let the people know, how much the 
administering of the oath in Shapsuk was likely to 
suffer from the want of sufficiency of Notwhatsh 
people to aid in it. The presence of some persons 
of influence is also indispensable for the formation of 
a congress with the Abazaks. 

The conduct of Shamuz (the most valuable man, 
after Mensur, in these provinces) in hitherto abstain- 
ing from taking a part in these important transac- 
tions, appeared to us peculiarly inexplicable. Some 
trilling and imaginary causes of offence seemed partly 
to have occasioned his standing aloof, and the feud 
with his brother-in-law may have contributed its 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 363 

part ; but I fear I have discovered the prime cause 
in a weakness that appears to have come over the old 
chieftain's mind, superinduced, I imagine, by excess 
of anxiety in regard to the fate of his country. This 
anxiety he expressed during my present short visit, 
in few but strong terms, as preying on his mind night 
and day ; and then he reverted to some of his oft- 
repeated tales of the olden time, while the advice he 
gave in regard to us seemed anything but wise ; viz. 
that we should leave the people of Shapsuk to manage 
the swearing in, and return to Semez, there to await 
what news might arrive from Turkey or England, 
Yet he admitted, at the same time, the infinite 
importance of the administration of the oath. 

It was truly melancholy to see this old warrior, 
who, up to last year, had been incessantly engaged 
in stimulating by his advice and example the forti- 
tude and activity of his countrymen, now seated 
alone in his unfurnished guest-house, by the embers 
of a small fire, employed in nothing, so far as I could 
see, but the washings for his numerous prayers. He 
says, that in the spring he purposes going to Mecca ! 

Serfs, it would appear, can take their freedom. 
Two belonging to Shamuz have absented themselves 
from his service for about a year past ; and the ques- 
tion at present is not about forcing them to return^ 
but about the amount of ransom they should pay. 
The ordinary compensation is from forty to sixty 
oxen. Six more of his serfs absconded lately, and 
our hostess is said to be the cause of these desertions, 
being, although a very clever woman, somewhat of 
a Xantippe; while Shamuz, although among the 



364 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



bravest of his countrymen, and the sagest and most 
eloquent in council, " knows not how to rule his own 
household : " where wife, sons, and servants, all 
occasionally take the lead of him. 

A serf seeking freedom in this manner flies to the 
protection of a tokav, and gets him to swear with him 
an oath of fraternity. After this ceremony the serf 
cannot be forced back into his master's service; but by 
law he must compensate him, for which purpose he 
must previously have contrived to get a sufficient" 
amount of what property he may possess out of his 
master's hands. When he has by this method ob- 
tained his freedom, he is under the protection of the 
fraternity of the person whose co-operation he pro- 
cured : whereas, if freed by his master, he remains 
under the protection of his fraternity. 

I shall not soon forget my ride of to-day from 
Sernez. The thermometer in the morning stood 
only 2^° below zero ; but as I crossed the valley, I 
saw through the trees what appeared great wreaths of 
smoke, but which I found, on reaching a plain at the 
foot of the eastern hills, to be dense snow-drift 
whirled towards us by such violent gusts from these 
hills that the horses frequently swerved from the 
path, and it was with some difficulty we kept our 
seats, and with still greater, (in fact, only with inces- 
sant beating,) that I could keep any sensation in my 
fingers. Matters, as may be supposed, were not much 
mended on our reaching the summits of the two 
ridges of high hills that lie between Semez and this 
glen, where, however, a kind reception and blazing 
hearth soon obliterated all frosty recollections. 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



365 



Khabl, Saturday, 6th January 1838. — On the 
1st I returned here from my excursion to Notwhatsh, 
which I fear will not be attended with any beneficial 
result, so far as regards the attracting of any assist- 
ants to the work of oath-administering, and collecting 
delegates to the congress with the Abazaks, at which 
the adoption of the oath in their province, the 
appointment of ambassadors to England, and other 
matters of importance, might be discussed and de- 
cided. Indeed it was with difficulty I got an escort 
to accompany me thus far, and having declared that I 
would not return unescorted, I was under the neces- 
sity of quartering myself at Adughum until two 
volunteers presented themselves in the persons of 
II at tow, an elderly tokav of great courage and liveli- 
ness, and his son-in-law ; not that any escort beyond 
that of my servants was necessary, further than as a 
means of procuring recruits for the good work. The 
severity of the weather has been assigned by many as 
a reason for not leaving home at present, while others 
made lavish promises of the numbers that would set 
out when the festival of the Beiram (at which time 
all wish to be with their families) was over. Of the 
fulfilment of these promises, how r ever, there is as yet 
no appearance, although it is eight days since that 
festival terminated. But many speeches and inci- 
dents combine to prove the prevalence of a disposition 
among both chiefs and people to engage in no new 
matter of importance, such as the appointment of 
ambassadors to England, until an answer to the letter 
sent to Sefir Bey by the congress at Adughum, in 
reply to the one he wrote, has been received. The 



366 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



anxiety to obtain his reply to that communication, 
in which the idea of a peace with Russia under the 
guarantee of England was mooted, seems to engross 
their minds even to the suspension of warlike opera- 
tions. 

During my stay at Adughum we had two days of 
thaw, followed immediately by severe frost, varying 
in intensity till yesterday, that the thermometer 
stood at 16° below zero, the greatest cold we have 
yet experienced. This and the former thaws followed 
by such severe frost have made the plain of the Kuban 
almost a continuous sheet of ice; so that on our 
journey here we had to make short stages, for the 
sake of our horses, and to use precaution in crossing 
the rivers, the ice in some places not having attained 
sufficient thickness to be passed in safety. 

At Bochundur, the 31st December, the ther- 
mometer standing at 4° below zero, and there being 
at the time a clear sky and small spiculae of frozen 
vapour — star-shaped with six rays — descending, I 
observed, a little after the rising of the sun, a column 
of light on each side of and at a short distance from 
it, of an orange tinge, and crowned with capitals 
still more luminous at the height of the sun from the 
horizon. 

A day or two previously to my arrival here, my 
countrymen, who had occasionally visited the scene 
of the oath-taking to urge it forward by their pre- 
sence, had, for the purpose of saving time in the 
equally important matter of the embassy to England, 
induced our indefatigable and enterprising host, 
Shah an Gheri, to proceed, accompanied by one of 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



367 



their most confidential servants, on a mission to 
Psadug, for the purpose of getting letters for Eng- 
land, and, if possible, an ambassador for that pro- 
vince. On the 2nd, these individuals returned with 
a story of the impracticable state of the country and 
the danger of crossing the rivers. My arrival made 
this so far incredible, and our incredulity being 
further increased by the want of assurance their ex- 
pression of face betrayed, we allowed our features 
also to reflect this feeling, in consequence of which 
the messengers at length made a frank confession of 
the truth; viz. — that having on their way encountered 
the commission of oath-administrators, consisting 
(among others) of Mehmet EfFendi, Ali-bi, and 
Nassu (the aged Demosthenes of this province), they 
forbade their proceeding on the mission, as a certain 
chief in Psadug, the judge said, had become sus- 
pected ; and he added (I presume in one of the 
passions he is subject to), that if we attempted at 
present to open communication with or proceed to 
any of the interior provinces he would shoot us ! 
This bravado was, it seems, not intended to be com- 
municated to us, and was told us secretly by the 
servant ; but feeling, as we do, contempt for it, and 
knowing, from the evidence of Shamuz, Mensur, 
and many other persons of judgment and respect- 
ability, that the accusation of the Psadug chief is 
false,— Shamuz and Mensur having even agreed with 
us in the propriety of this mission,— and viewing the 
whole affair as a mere ebullition of spleen in the 
judge, who has been disappointed at his proposal of 
himself being one of the ambassadors to England not 



368 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



being accepted, and still more perhaps at the pro- 
spect of any portion of his influence being lessened 
by any matters of importance abroad not remaining 
under his management in these two provinces, we 
availed ourselves of the lucky arrival of the Prince 
of Janat to engage him to undertake the mission, 
which he readily did. This circumstance is so far 
of value as it reveals to us the pitch of self-importance 
to which success in the affair of the oath-administering 
has wound up the ambitious mind of the judge, and 
as tending to prove, what we have long suspected — a 
disposition in the chiefs of Notwhatsh to join in his 
scheme of making their province supreme, and of 
confining to it all communication with other countries. 
This is so far unobjectionable, as the seat of govern- 
ment and of foreign correspondence must be in some 
one province ; and Notwhatsh has pre-eminent claims 
to this distinction on account of its proximity to the 
sea, and of the uncompromising and singular hos- 
tility to the Russians it has ahvays displayed. Daud 
Bey, moreover, on more than one occasion I believe 
has recommended this selection to the Circassians, of 
which Mehmet Effendi took care to inform us. But 
we have frequently told him and the other chiefs of 
his province that it was our intention to visit if 
possible all the other provinces, in order that we 
might be personally cognisant of their states and 
dispositions, and we think it improper to allow this 
necessary investigation to be sacrificed to the self- 
love and ambition of a few individuals. It is impos- 
sible after what has just occurred for us to co-operate 
advantageously with the two chiefs to whom the 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



369 



direction of affairs is at present consigned. We have 
therefore determined to return to Notwhatsh for the 
purpose of appealing to the good sense of Mensur, 
Shamuz, and the other leaders of councils there. If 
we find them indisposed to second our views on this 
point, on which we think it at length necessary to 

make a stand, Nadir Bey (Mr. ) has determined 

to abandon the undertaking of the embassy to Eng- 
land, and to quit the country by the first opportunity ; 
and so shall I, unless the letters I have desired to be 
forwarded to me from Constantinople make it ex- 
pedient for me to remain ; while Mr. L (with 

constancy which I find it easier to admire than 
imitate) intends to stand by the cause a little longer. 
To-morrow we set out on our return. 

The day after the return of Shahan Gheri, my 
dragoman (whom I had sent with another to the 
commissioners, if I may so call them, with some 
important messages from Mensur) also returned 
bearing a very soothing messsage — or what was in- 
tended to be such — from the Judge ; but we find in it 
additional cause of dissatisfaction, as he gives us to 
understand that he greatly amplified the recommen- 
dations in our favour contained in Sefir Bey's letters, 
on reading them to others — implying thereby, no 
doubt, that our reputation among his countrymen 
depends upon him. Altogether^ his is a remarkable 
and, I am happy to say, here a singular character. 
Sufficiently well endowed with talents, and possessing 
natural fitness for business, and acquired habits of 
application above most of his countrymen, he is 
withal fickle, dictatorial, passionate and unscrupulous: 

VOL. I. B B 



370 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



and this is the man who has unfortunately obtained 
from the Porte a firman constituting him moll ah and 
judge-in-chief of these two provinces, in virtue of 
which appointment*, he has bound by oath all the 
judges to abide by his directions. Among the mass 
this gives him influence, which is further increased 
by his learning, viz., his ability to speak and write 
Turkish with considerable fluency ; and by his foreign 
travel — that is, having visited Constantinople, Alex- 
andria, Cairo, and Baghdad. 

The following is an amusing specimen of the un- 
scrupulous manner in which he sets about carrying 
his wishes into effect : — one day, during my absence, 
he and Hassan (a tokav senior from Notwhatsh) 
came to my countrymen, and giving a doleful 
account of the progress of the oath-taking, said 
they should be obliged to abandon the undertaking, 
unless the Englishmen would go with them to the 
place of meeting, and endeavour by their presence 
and exhortations to impress upon the people the 
necessity of the adoption of the measure. This 
was readily complied with, and some speeches 6 for 
the nonce' delivered ; in consequence of which, as it 
seemed, the work once more went forward swimmingly; 
and then my countrymen found out (through a 
Turkish servant who speaks Circassian fluently) that 
the sole purpose for which their appearance at this 
special meeting had been required, was to enforce an 
equal division of the fines between the superintend- 
ants of Notwhatsh and Shapsuk, (according to the 



* It is simply religious. Islamism combines law with religion, and the 
Sultan is the head of that faith. 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



371 



precedent established three years since) about which a 
dispute had taken place; and that the judge, in pretend- 
ing to translate their speeches, had represented them as 
bearing solely on the promotion of this object, putting 
in their mouths a threat to leave the province if their 
advice were not complied with ! He had previously 
declared (to display his patriotism) that his services 
were gratuitously given, at the same time deploring 
the sacrifice he made in absenting himself so long from 
his domestic affairs. His character, however, appears 
to be justly appreciated by all the leading men. 

In consequence of my visit to King Mensur, (as 
some call him) he sent four messages to the commis- 
sioners, and the people. The first required that they 
should send a force, and he would send another, to 
meet together at Adughum, for the purpose of inflict- 
ing punishment upon a clique of traitors (that is, 
traders with Russia) and thieves which has been 
there discovered, and whose ramifications are already 
wide, and embrace two nobles of Mensur's fraternity. 
The two greatest delinquents are already seized and 
in confinement, and their being drowned, as is de- 
cided on, is deferred only until all information about 
their associates is drawn from them. The second 
message referred to the Abbats and Janats and their 
associates — who have deserted their country, and 
infest this bank of the Kuban by their depredations 
and hostilities — and required that a decision should 
be immediately come to in regard to them, either for 
their restoration, under certain conditions, or for 
their entire extermination. A third message bespoke 
for us, from the people of Shapsuk, every sort of con- 

B B 2 



RESIDENCE IN CiRCASSIx\. 



sideration and good treatment in their power ; and 
the fourth was a private one from himself to our 
host, Shahan Gheri, testifying the pleasure it gave 
him to learn that he had been so kind in his recep- 
tion of us, and of such service to us in the affairs of 
the province. This last message proves Mensur's 
generosity, as he and Shamuz were at deadly feud 
with Shahan Gheri, in consequence of his having last 
year traduced them, as in the pay of Russia. At 
that time Mensur went, as he told me, twice into 
Shapsuk, for the purpose of confronting and fighting 
with his accuser; but the latter thought proper to 
avoid him. This and another malpractice he was 
guilty of, (having not only visited the Russians for 
the purpose of obtaining presents, but having with the 
same view, and to prove to them his influence, 
dressed out the tokavs of his acquaintance, and sent 
them also to the Russian head- quarters as chiefs of 
note) made him generally suspected in Notwhatsh, 
and occasioned his being forbid to enter that pro- 
vince. But his conduct and conversation since our 
first acquaintance with him have been, in every 
respect, all that we could wish. 

I find that it is customary among the Circassians 
when a death occurs in a family, for the females to wear 
black for a time. This may serve, perhaps, as another 
proof of the former prevalence of Christianity here ; 
for those who have become rigid mussulmans forbid 
the practice, as at variance with the Koran. 

The Prince of Janat has given us some insight 
into the grievances for which the society of that name 
left their former seats on this side of the Kuban. 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



373 



He says that originally the greater part of the north of 
Notwhatsh belonged to his family and fraternity, and 
that of Shapsuk to the family of Basti-ku. At this 
remote period the Zahn-oku family (that of Sefir 
Bey) was located in Temigui. Subsequently, great 
numbers of his fraternity having died of the plague, the 
rest were gradually deprived of much of their ancient 
possessions, and driven to that portion of Adughum 
nearest the Kuban ; and many of their numerous 
slaves having deserted their service without paying 
the legal compensation, the fraternity at length quitted 
the province in disgust, removing first to Psadug, 
and lately to the north bank of the Kuban, opposite 
to the island occupied by the Abbats, with whom, 
consequently, they are now identified. 

The Turkish word oghlu (son) is equivalent to the 
Circassian oku, or ku, the conjunction of which with 
the names to which it is very generally attached, has, 
it is said, been transmitted from remote ages. 

The prince repeated to us a story of the derivation 
of the name " Tcherkess," which, though probably 
fabulous, (or mixed with fable) is yet so generally 
narrated by the people (Potoski having in 1797 
heard part of the tradition from Kabarda), as to 
merit some notice. It is, that the Circassians, 
Albanians, and Kurds, are descended from three 
brothers, princes of Arabistan ; one of whom having 
somehow deprived a person of an eye, and this indi- 
vidual having refused to accept of any other satisfac- 
tion than the lex talionis, the matter was referred 
to the Caliph Omar, who decided, that if the ag- 
grieved party insisted on it, he was entitled by law 



374 RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 

to have " an eye for an eye." In consequence of 
which decision, the three brothers fled from the 
country, and went to Kara-hissa (in Asia Minor). 
There a message from Arabistan overtook them, to 
the effect, that they might return to their native 
country, for the maimed man had consented to accept 
of such compensation as they chose to give. But 
the brothers had now determined to seek their 
fortunes elsewhere ; and they departed from the 
house where they had found refuge, each repeating 
a word from which the name of his nation was 
derived. 

Having remarked to the prince that I had never 
seen potatoes in this country, he exclaimed that there 
was plenty of them. Accordingly next morning he 
brought us specimens of his potatoes, which we found 
to be excellent Jerusalem artichokes. The former 
esculent seems to be here unknown, as well as tur- 
nips, carrots, and many other valuable vegetables ; 
in fact, those generally cultivated are only kidney 
and haricot beans, gourd, onions, beet-root, and 
cabbages. The two latter are preserved with salt 
and eaten with honey ! 

The value of oxen here at present, as appears from 
the payment of some fines, is about ten shillings each. 
Grain is exceedingly abundant, but at present not so 
cheap as inNotwhatsh. The sorts principally cultivated 
are millet, rye, barley, oats (in this order of propor- 
tion) , someTurkey corn, and very little wheat. Shapsuk 
is considerably larger, more fertile, and populous than 
Notwhatsh, as the hills, especially to the east, recede 
gradually towards the south. From the description, 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



375 



it would appear that among the wild animals on the 
reedy and uncultivated prairies on the Kuban are 
elks ; but the state we are kept in, and the diffi- 
culty of mustering an adequate escort, prevent our 
going to see natural curiosities. Our endeavours are 
somewhat paralysed, also, by a misconstruction put 
upon the attempts of this sort that have been made ; 
the Circassians having no idea of a disinterested love 
of science. 

Since the commencement of this month the weather 
has been in general fine, with the temperature vary- 
ing from 16° above to 16° below zero, which is, as I 
said, the greatest extremity of cold we have yet ex- 
perienced*. 

* On the 1st January, when accidentally deprived of the thermometer, 
we all thought it must have been even colder than this. 



LETTER XVI. 



RETURN TO SEMEZ — DIFFERENCE OF THE WINTER 
TEMPERATURE AT SEMEZ AND TO THE NORTH OF 
THE HILLS — MEDICAL PRACTICE AND CIRCASSIAN 
PREJUDICES — MILITARY MOVEMENTS — MENSUR's 
ORATION — DISAPPOINTED VOLUNTEERS — MORE 
DISAPPOINTMENTS. 

Psemaghu, Notwhatsh, llth January, 1838, 

My dear — . On the 7th we set out from 
Khabl, and we are now returning to Semez by short 
stages, on account of the icy state of the roads. At 
Bochundur and Waff, the thermometer standing at 
14° and 15° below zero, and the sky almost clear, 
we were gratified by the sight of beautiful lunar 
halos. On the first evening there was one around 
the moon, and one, which intersected its centre, was 
projected toward the sun ; on the second the halos 
were similar, though smaller, while a larger one in- 
cluded the whole. It appeared to be a spectacle 
quite novel to our Circassian associates, who inquired 
at me what it portended. Having unfortunately 
predicted one or two of the late gales of wind, I 
have brought upon myself constant applications for 
foreknowledge of the weather, even for months to 
come. 

Here, at the house of Hattow, is the most con- 
venient and agreeable room for the present cold 
weather I have yet seen in this country. It has 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



377 



another between it and the outer door ; is heated by 
a large and well constructed earthen stove, communi- 
cating with the fireplace of the latter ; has a capacious 
divan ; and, above all, two windows, which, unlike 
air the others we have suffered from, admit light 
without the bitter frosty wind, having frames covered 
with paper. Among us civilised folks it is too com- 
monly the case, that the air of heaven— one of our 
best friends — is shunned and excluded as our worst 
enemy;* but the Circassians are in the other ex- 
treme, and appear to me to admit it to too great 
familiarity. Besides the way it makes through their 
thatching and abundant apertures left for it in the 
walls, it has free admission, in all weathers, by the 
open door and windows, while the enormous funnel 
of a chimney creates a strong draught. This is the 
general state of the guest-houses, with a few r excep- 
tions ; while others, owned by most hospitable land- 
lords, are left in such a state of disrepair, as would 
make many Englishmen hesitate about stabling their 
horses in them. Of this kind was the one I slept in 
at Bochundur, on my way to Khabl, with the ther- 
mometer 4° minus. The end of the room, which 
communicated with a wicker stable, was itself not 
much better than open wicker-work; while a mass of 
the clay plaster behind the door, about as big as the 
doorway, had fallen from the wicker-work, and, with 
other numerous apertures, left such free passage for 
the wind, as made the room, at a few feet from the 

* I recollect having heard the colonel of one of our cavalry regiments 
say to his son, on coming out of a house ; " Billy, my dear, put on your 
gloves, you '11 catch cold !" 



378 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



fire, little better shelter than the adjoining hill side- 
But an enormous fire is never wanting, so that the 
chief guests, whose divans are close beside it, are 
grilled on one side and frozen on the other. At two 
or three feet from these fires I have frequently of late 
been interrupted in writing by the ink freezing in 
my pen. 

Semez, Saturday 20th.— Yesterday we arrived at 
our old quarters here (our Circassian home, or prison, 
as my companions call it), after nearly a fortnight's 
series of short stages — so exceedingly tender of their 
horses are all those who in general accompany us ; 
which care is, however, in some degree necessary, 
none of the horses being shod. But no Circassian in 
the least degree above destitution ever dreams of 
walking even a mile or two ; thus his horse, of neces- 
sity, becomes as valuable as his own natural means 
of locomotion, and his fondness and care of it are 
proportionate. 

As the frost continued, until yesterday that it 
relaxed a little, the roads have been execrable, and 
the passage of the high hills that intervene between 
the source of the Psebebsi and the vale of Hokho'i 
was rendered additionally difficult by drifts of snow, 
and a very high cold wind. On the 14th we called, 
in passing, on Mensur, and found his foot decidedly 
convalescent. On explaining to him the causes of 
our return from Shapsuk, he was evidently much 
irritated and excited, yet he mastered his feelings so 
far, and even made an attempt or two to give a 
livelier tone to the conversation and to our feelings. 
But we judged it right not to admit of this ; and 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



379 



having given him to understand, that we considered 
it absolutely necessary for the good of the cause gene- 
rally, that Abazak and the provinces on the Kuban 
should be combined with Notwhatsh and Shapsuk 
in sending ambassadors to England, (as neither 
that nation nor any other would take a lively and 
beneficial interest in their affairs, for the sake of the 
latter only), we, that is Nadir Bey and I, expressed 
our determination to leave the country, unless our 
advice in this respect were listened to, and active 
measures in accordance with it immediately adopted. 
His ingenuity was next taxed to induce us to grant 
him time to try what he could effect among his coun- 
trymen in furtherance of our views ; and, after some 
demur, in order to stimulate his activity we at length 
agreed to allow a fortnight, at the expiry of which 
time, if some people of influence were not ready to 
accompany us to Abazak, we said we should consider 
ourselves absolved from all obligation to take any 
further interest in the affairs of this country, and 
at liberty to depart by the first opportunity that 
offered. 

On our way up the valley of Psebebsi, an elderly 
man met us, and saluted us very civilly. We learned 
subsequently that it was he who had acted as an emis- 
sary for the Russians in the design upon us which I 
mentioned on 30th September ; in consequence of 
which his house had been burned, and all his goods 
confiscated. That night we lodged in the same valley 
with some Armenians, who are under the protection 
of Mensur, and next morning, just before we set out, 
a messenger from that chief arrived, to beg that I 



380 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



would exchange a handsome grey horse I rode for a 
white one he had sent. The messenger had been 
desired to assure me, that it was an active, strong 
animal, though not good in appearance ; and certainly 
on inspecting him some such warrandice seemed 
highly necessary, for no horse of our train, not even 
the baggage one, had so sorry an outside as this upon 
which one of the governors of the country, as they 
are pleased to style us, was now desired to make the 
tour of his state duties ! Although this message 
appeared to me exceedingly ill-timed, and even 
involving some personal disrespect, (as Mensur knew 
that our means were for the time exhausted, and that 
I could not therefore procure another suitable horse,) 
what vexed me most was, the appearance of the 
affair of presents — for in no other light could the 
exchange be viewed — being of greater consideration 
even with Mensur (as we had found it to be with 
several others) than the interest of the country. I 
therefore sent him a message to this effect — refusing 
to make such an exchange, and saying it would be soon 
enough for me to determine what I should do with 
the horse when, the time having arrived for my quit- 
ting the country, I should have no further use for 
him. His conduct in this matter has, I have since 
learned, been strongly condemned by some of the 
tokavs, but I am not inclined to view it entirely in 
the light I did at first ; because Mensur is anything 
but avaricious, and upon recollection of some things 
which dropped from him in late conversations, his 
demand of the horse appears to have resulted chiefly 
from a jealousy in regard to his influence suffering' 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



381 



by its being seen that other chiefs — whom he may 
justly consider of less merit than himself — have 
received more of our bounty. But he has probably 
not considered that from most of these chiefs we had 
received equivalents in hospitality and attentions. 
If, however, in our power hereafter, we must make 
him amends for this. The incident may serve, 
however, to show how difficult a matter it is for 
strangers in this country to avoid doing mischief in 
bestowing presents among a set of chiefs whose rank 
is essentially equal, and whose value and estimation 
in the country can only be learned through much 
experience and careful observation. We learn, more- 
over, that although the tokavs have never evinced in 
their conduct to us any semblance of such a feeling, 
some jealousy has been expressed on their part at all 
the presents of most value having been made to the 
Vorks. Our rule with regard to presents has been, 
to give to those only from whom we have received 
hospitality or services : to attempt to act upon any 
other might produce more evil than good. 

In passing on our way by the eastern end of the 
valley of Anapa, we lodged with Az-Demir, an 
opulent tokav, and were shown in the vicinity of his 
hamlet another salt spring, which we found still un- 
frozen although very slightly impregnated. In summer, 
however, it is said to be much Salter. It is situated 
at the base of the hills, which there form the boun- 
dary of the valley. On the stones around it I 
observed a deep ferruginous dye. 

Semez 2§th. — Yesterday cannon and even mus- 
ket reports were heard here for some time, and 



382 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



appeared to proceed from the coast towards Anapa, 
though the wind was to the southward of that 
direction. Some hostilities have of course taken 
place. 

The feathered inhabitants of the Kuban knowing 
instinctively the greater mildness of these regions, 
and the greater chance they here have of rinding 
unfrozen streams, now swarm abundantly in this 
neighbourhood. Mergansers, golden-eyed and other 
ducks, haunt all the running waters of this valley, 
and in the bay floats many a peaceful fleet of stately 
swans and geese. Wild boars and deer seem also 
obliged to take a wider range for food, and have been 
roaming about this valley within these few days. A 
wolf or two have also been seen. Alas for the Mus- 
sulman prejudice that prevents us making a savoury 
repast of the acorn-fed wild boar ! I have just learned 
another unfortunate interdict of this religion, in talk- 
ing over with the people here Nadir Bey's chance of 
getting a vessel to sail with him shortly. It appears 
that no strict Mussulman will put to sea between the 
24th of December and about the 12th of March. 
" But," said the handsome, intelligent, young Turkish 
mollah from Trebizond, who told us this, putting his 
hand on his heart, " A man with a good conscience 
may disregard this injunction." Some do so whether 
qualified or not. It would be well were there more 
so qualified, in which case a safe trade might be 
carried on during winter, so far as regards danger 
from the Russians ; for, if they have the same reli- 
gious prejudice and exemption, there must be few 
good consciences among them, if one may judge froni 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



383 



the tenacity with which they remain in harbour 
during this season. 

Three or four days ago I was requested to visit a 
person dangerously ill at a neighbouring hamlet, 
where I found a young woman in great agony from 
pleurisy. By bleeding, &c, she is now almost quite 
well ; and I mention her case to record the following 
injurious prejudices. I found her fever so high the 
first night, that I gave her medicine to procure sleep ; 
at the same time enjoining a sage-looking elderly 
woman in attendance that she should on no account 
be disturbed. Yet next evening, when I inquired 
as to how she had slept, a little girl who was then in 
waiting naively assured me she had not been allowed 
to sleep, as a person sat up with her for that pur- 
pose ! I had been more particular in my injunctions 
in this respect, from having heard that, in treat- 
ing those who have been wounded, the Circassians 
are careful not to permit them to sleep ; lest, I sup- 
pose, it should become eternal. I found also that 
my patient, although I had purposely infused her 
medicines in a copious draught, was suffering from 
severe thirst, which (according to another notion of 
the country) her attendant assured me they had been 
careful not to permit her to allay ! In consequence 
of these fatal errors I went out to speak to the hus- 
band, and was proceeding to read him a lecture upon 
the danger his wife lay under owing to them, when I 
was encountered with a third prejudice ; being re- 
minded by Luca that he could know nothing of what 
was going on in his wife's room, as it was against all 
usage for him to enter it during her illness or to take 



384 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



any charge of her management ; and that it would 
be considered the height of unmanliness for him to 
show anxiety about her. But, in the little that sub- 
sequently passed between us, I was gratified to see 
nature assert her rights in spite of this absurd preju- 
dice ; for while I spoke of the danger the attendants 
made his wife incur, (by the bye she is remarkably 
handsome) the tears stood full in his eyes, and a 
forced laugh and some few words not to the purpose 
which ensued, betrayed the intensity of the strife of 
feeling he suffered under. 

A strange story has just been repeated to us, as 
having been brought by the last ship that arrived, 
of a squall at Constantinople among the ambassadors, 
in consequence of some offensive letter having, at one 
of their meetings, been produced for a claimant by 
the Russian ambassador, and been claimed by the 
English one ; when the former addressed the latter in 
such terms of insult, that he applied to the Porte to 
have evidence of them given him, that he might 
send it to his Government. Upon this foundation 
we have erected a fine "castle in the air" for Cir- 
cassia, not doubting that she formed the subject of 
the letter. Something, possibly, has occurred, and 
it may be amusing to compare with the substance, 
the form and size its shadow has acquired in ex- 
tending thus far. 

The conversation having turned, a few evenings 
ago, upon America and her wondrous achievements 
within the last half century, one of my countrymen 
overheard our old host attesting so far what we had 
said to a young Anapali Turk, whom he was info^n- 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



385 



ing "as how" the English had brought the Ameri- 
cans from a state utterly savage into one of high 
civilisation, as he had seen evinced by Americans he 
had met at Constantinople ! I might have taken 
the trouble of rectifying the error, for the sake of 
some friends "in the far West," had not an incident 
"Nadir Bey" related, as having occurred lately in 
Switzerland, been fresh upon my memory. A young 
Jonathan entered a coffee-house, much frequented 
by Englishmen, and thus bespoke himself, "Waiter, 
do you speak American ? " 

SOtk. — We have just learned that the firing heard 
here last Sunday was occasioned by a sortie, which 
the Russians made from Anapa, for the purpose 
of burning a vessel belonging to Sefir Bey, which lay 
at Sukwa, about five miles to the south of the fortress. 
In this enterprise I am sorry to say they succeeded, 
as well as in destroying a portion of the merchandise 
which was stored at that place, for the purpose of 
being shipped by the vessel. About 100 men with 
a piece of artillery set out from the fortress very early 
in the morning, and made so rapid a march that they 
had accomplished their object and were on their re- 
turn before more than twenty-five Circassians could 
assemble; this small band, however, attacked the 
Russians, and, although some of them were even 
without powder, they captured the officer and a cart, 
in which some of the merchandise and rigging of the 
vessel were being carried off. In this encounter two 
of the Circassians were killed, two Turks wounded, 
and a woman and two children carried off by the 
Russians. A Russian or two were left dead on the 



VOL. I. 



C C 



386 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



field ; how many others, killed or wounded, were car- 
ried off is not known. If their progress could have 
been impeded only for a little longer, they must have 
been entirely cut off by the great body of Circassians 
which assembled from the neighbourhood at the sound 
of the cannons. The Russians had been wise enough 
not to fire them till necessary for their safety, from 
fear of such an assembly. The success of this 
exploit is said to have been entirely owing to the 
treachery of an Armenian, whom Daud Bey advised 
the Circassians to execute, for a piece of treachery 
discovered at the time of his visit ; which recom- 
mendation our amiable friend Mehmet Effendi after- 
wards wrote to Constantinople had been acted upon. 
This man induced the captain, some time before, to 
defer his sailing, by a promise of an abundant lading 
and high freight, and then had the effrontery to be 
found acting as guide to the Russians, and crying 
out in terms of abuse to the Circassians. 

In consequence of some conversation with our old 
Konak Shamuz, he has at length come to understand 
the importance of sending ambassadors immediately 
to England ; and having volunteered a mission in 
order to convert the persons of influence in this pro- 
vince to this view of the question, he and Luca 
(whom he wished to have with him) have just set out 
for this purpose. 

Having, as I mentioned before, expended all the 
resources we brought with us, and being determined 
to live under as little obligation to any one as pos- 
sible, we have been much gratified to find the general 
integrity of the English character, even here, stand 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



387 



us in good stead. Some Turkish merchants of Asia 
Minor have replenished our strong-box, and offered 
us whatever more goods we may require, accepting in 
payment our drafts upon Constantinople. We have 
been thus timeously enabled to make further presents 
to Mensur, and some other deserving individuals. 

Cottons of various sorts, coloured or plain, and 
especially the power-loom kind, form the standard 
currency of this country, with adjuncts of black, 
yellow, and red leather, and a few silks. The most 
trifling of our purchases is thus made a tedious mat- 
ter, by long debates about the quality of the goods. 
Yet living is not dear here; e. g. when our funds 
were at a low ebb, an Armenian brought us from a 
distance, and, as he said, by order of one of our ser- 
vants, wh eaten flour, millet, bughu (a grain for 
making pilaff), and haricots, to the amount of 289 lbs. 
My youngest countryman (as we had not before 
bought such things) immediately exclaimed, "We 
shall be ruined ; " but on making a bargain and cal- 
culating the value, we found the whole come to only 
15s. 8d., or in reality 7 s. lOd. ; for the prices of our 
cottons here are at least cent, per cent, above those of 
England. All the Armenian's importation was gladly 
taken. 

Slst. — My two ardent companions, who have long 
desired to " flesh their maiden swords " on the in- 
vaders of this country, and have long ago and 
repeatedly offered to take part in any exploit the 
Circassians may undertake — after having suffered 
repeated disappointments as to storming of forts, ex- 
peditions across the Kuban, &c, have at length the 

c c 2 



388 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



immediate prospect of one of the latter, as Ali-bi of 
Ozerek has arrived to intimate to us that in conse- 
quence of the late sorties from Anapa, an expedition 
across the Kuban, on a large scale, has been agreed 
on among the chiefs ; and that if we wish to take 
part in it, we must set out immediately for the place 
of muster. We go to-morrow. I shall be attached 
to the medical department, in conformity with a re- 
quest of the elders and my own determination, not 
to take part in hostilities. 

Ali-bfs intimation corroborates what we have long 
suspected and heard reported ; viz., that the Circas- 
sians had determined on abstaining from expeditions 
across the Kuban this year, because the Russian 
invading army had this year abstained from devas- 
tating the country ; which moderation they seem 
to connect somehow with the proposition for peace 
under the guarantee of England, which they made to 
the Russian general, by order of Sefir Bey, in con- 
sequence, as he said, of a communication to him to 
that effect from the British ambassador. This reso- 
lution of the Circassians always appeared to me to 
have a very poor foundation, because it seemed much 
more probable that the sudden and harmless retreat 
of the Russians from Ghelenjik was caused by the 
burning of the stock of provisions there, than by any 
movement of mercy or change of policy ; yet we 
thought it expedient not to endeavour to make them 
depart from it, in case the Russians had by any pos- 
sibility changed their tactics. What warrandice there 
was for giving them the other expectation (as to 
England's interference) remains to be proved. 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



389 



February 3rd. — We set out from our first night's 
quarters, in the valley of Anapa, accompanied by our 
host there and several persons who had joined us at 
Semez ; the short notice not having admitted of our 
waiting for many more who were to follow. The 
day was beautiful, with a mild southerly wind ; and 
as we descended the steep wooded hills that form the 
southern boundary of the larger plain of Hokhoi, we 
discovered, winding through its thickets, the first 
large party of warriors on their march to the general 
rendezvous. This place became evident to us by the 
time we reached the plain, whence we saw, on the 
gentle acclivity of the northern hills, two dense and 
numerous assemblages, besides many smaller ones, to 
which lesser parties were streaming by all the path- 
ways of the valley. As we approached the first 
large muster, a debate appeared to terminate, for 
the warriors composing it rose from the ground, and 
some on horseback and many on foot proceeded up 
the hill to join a larger one. In the midst of it 
floated a large standard, which we afterwards learnt 
to be that of Mensur, who was there with his three 
or four hundred Psebebsi men. We halted on the 
opposite side of the ravine, near which this general 
gathering was held. We calculated the number 
assembled to be at that time about fifteen hundred. 
The spectacle was equally novel, exciting, and 
picturesque — a mass of rugged mountaineers, men 
and boys, horse and foot, mingled promiscuously, 
with the flags of cognizance of their respective chiefs 
fluttering over them — volunteering invasion of a 
great empire to seek revenge for the ravaged homes 
of their countrymen. 



390 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



In a short time we were invited to join the assembly, 
and were immediately accosted by many old friends, 
who appeared delighted at our presence, and some of 
whom informed us that the expectation of it had 
caused so great a muster, the people being desirous 
to prove to us in the expected warfare that they were 
not without courage and confidence in their cause. 

The first salutations were no sooner over than we 
were invited to seat ourselves upon some scanty 
handfuls of straw, when a dense and narrow circle 
of curious strangers was immediately formed around 
us ; but we were soon relieved from the annoyance 
of this (to which by the way we are pretty well 
broken in) by the arrival of Shamuz, Mensiir, and 
Hatukwoi, with other persons of influence; all of 
that description in this portion of the province with 
whom we have become acquainted appearing to be 
present on this occasion. A pipe or two were then 
smoked, when the chiefs rose, and Mensur began, in 
a quiet conversational manner, a speech which soon 
swelled into the full current of his energetic and 
impressive oratory, and was listened to by the dense 
mass of warriors around us with the strictest atten- 
tion. Its object was to disclose to the assembly the 
purpose and direction of the intended expedition, 
(which had hitherto been known but to a few of the 
leaders, lest they should be betrayed by spies) and to 
give the people advice as to how they should conduct 
themselves in the execution of the enterprise. " We 
must not," said he, " engage ourselves in the capture 
of booty, the greater part of which must of necessity 
be lost or destroyed upon our march, but must make 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



391 



it our object to weaken the enemy by the destruction 
of his forts, and the capture of his ammunition ; and 
if we should be so fortunate as to obtain any cannons, 
we must not, as formerly, leave them as things of no 
use, but must endeavour to transport them across the 
Kuban. Above all things, you must be led by the 
advice, and obedient to the orders, of those who have 
much more experience than the most of you. We 
will make Shamuz our commander, who has crossed 
the Kuban more frequently and seen more of warfare 
in general than any of us. I doubt not many of you 
will be eager to display your courage before our 
friends these Englishmen, but it will, I am sure, be 
no gratification to them to see your blood spilled 
needlessly ; be therefore prudent as well as courage- 
ous. An old and very religious man predicted un- 
favourably of this expedition, as revealed to him by 
his observation of the stars. But although such men 
are worthy of all respect on account of their piety and 
learning, they are not those by whose counsels we 
should in every case be guided. Yet must we never 
forget our duty to God ; for if we duly remember 
him, he will not forget or desert us. Let us therefore 
put our trust in Him, and go in His name." 

This address — the exact phraseology of which I do 
not of course pretend to give — was followed by some 
short speeches from other seniors present, when the 
chiefs, and almost all those of mature age, left us to 
say their evening prayers, for the sun was by this 
time about to set. Their places around us were 
supplied by lads and boys (many of the latter, the 
two sons of Shamuz amon them, being only of 



392 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



twelve to fifteen years of age, a few even younger), 
and we had to reply, as we best could, to numerous 
applications for powder and balls. 

As the sun went down, the pleasant southerly 
wind which had blown all day ceased, and was suc- 
ceeded by a strong frosty breeze from the east, 
accompanied by a chilling fog, which no doubt con- 
tributed to give edge to the feeling with which I 
prepared to bid my companions adieu for the night. 

All this part and most of the rest of the valley is un- 
inhabited, on account of the devastation the Russians 
have committed here of late ; there was therefore no 
shelter for any one but such as the scanty brushwood 
afforded, among which numerous little fires now 
flickered ; and beside one of these my countrymen 
had to pass the tedious two hours, at the expiry of 
which they were to set forth on their first war 
exploit. Having subscribed my horse, pelisse, and 
pistol for their equipment, I parted from them (ex- 
pressing our hopes to meet again " here or here- 
after ") and set out to seek a night's lodging, escorted 
by the chief surgeon, who had been dissuaded by the 
chiefs from accompanying the expedition, on account 
of his bad health and their wish that he should remain 
for some days in my company, in order that I might 
observe the nature of his disease, and endeavour to 
cure it ; for he is considered a very valuable man, 
and attends many a sick-bed gratuitously. With 
him and Luca, who was sadly disappointed at my 
refusing to allow him to pass the Kuban to show his 
Georgian courage, I proceeded over the hill to the 
east, with a feeling of something like degradation in 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 393 

not taking part with the patriotic band I had parted 
from, the first division of which I saw, on looking 
behind me, had already set forth, and formed a dark 
mass, moving slowly through the thickets towards 
the Kuban. 

As it was late before we reached any houses, it 
was not till after having experienced three or four 
refusals at other hamlets, that we got quarters in this, 
where I have received most hospitable treatment. 
This, however, produced a somewhat annoying con- 
trast whenever I thought of the war-party, and espe- 
cially of my uninitiated countrymen ; for throughout 
last night there has prevailed, on the height where I 
am lodged, a high and bitter east wind, and so dense 
a fog that it seemed to me much to be feared that 
the guides of the Circassians might lose their way, 
and the army get divided without the possibility of 
reuniting. No cannon-reports have however yet 
been heard, and the rumour this morning is, that 
the passage of the river was not effected. I think 
this very probable, as there have been five days of 
considerable thaw, the thermometer ranging from 
33° to 55°, with a strong southerly wind ; and since 
then only three days of slight frost. Time will 
show. 

Semez, Saturday lQtk. — After waiting impa- 
tiently a great portion of this day-week (at the 
hamlet in which the above was written) for my 
companions, who, it was said, would call there for 
me on their return from the Kuban, I set out in 
search of and found them, safely ensconced at an- 
other, within an hour's ride. 



394 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



When bivouacked on the hill of rendezvous, one 
of my countrymen observed Mensur going about 
among the people, and addressing several individuals 
among them, after which many shook hands toge- 
ther. This he afterwards learned was a temporary 
reconciliation of feuds between fraternities, in order 
that all might heartily co-operate in the intended 
expedition. They did not leave this hill with the army 
till two in the morning on the 3rd, when they marched 
towards the Kuban ; but, as might be supposed, so 
little order prevailed in their route through the oak 
thickets which there abound, that they soon got 
adrift from the Semez banner — that of the General- 
issimo (which was but a handkerchief on the end of 
a long pole), and from one another; and Shamuz 
has since said that he was almost equally distracted 
between his military duties, and his anxiety and 
search for them. A halt was made within two or 
three miles of the river, and, as it had previously 
been resolved that the passage should not be at- 
tempted during the night, the tiresome remainder of 
it had to be spent, with dissimilar fortunes — by Nadir 
Bey in a cottage, near which he happened to halt ; 
and by Alcide Bey (Mr. L.) beside a watch-fire. 

At an hour or two before sunrise, the order to 
advance was given, and the army (which had re- 
ceived contributions during the whole night, and is 
said to have at length amounted, in horse and foot, 
to nearly 5000 warriors) marched down towards the 
river. But here it was found that the thawed mud 
was too deep to admit of the infantry (upon which 
the greatest dependence was placed in case of a 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



395 



Russian force collecting to oppose the retreat) 
making its way through it, and when the cavalry 
reached the ice of the river, the passage over it was 
found equally impracticable owing to large canals 
made by the late thaw. Mensur quickly found a 
remedy for these flaws, in the construction of bridges 
of fascines, in the preparation of which the host was 
still busily working, when Shamuz arrived, and gave 
orders that the passage should not be attempted. 
By this time, however, about 300 men (chiefly dehli- 
khans, or youths) had already passed over the first 
bridges and rotten ice, among whom were my coun- 
trymen and Tughuz. He, in particular, and some 
other ardent spirits, busied themselves making trips 
across the ice to get recruits for a smaller expedition, 
seeing that the larger one was thought inexpedient. 
This smaller body then set forward, having first 
gathered together under the lofty trees which grace 
the narrow elevation forming the bank of the river, 
and, in an impressive manner, uttered a short prayer, 
with uplifted hands. Several messengers now ar- 
rived to entreat my countrymen to return, to which 
they replied, that it was impossible for Englishmen 
to do so when others advanced. But the impro- 
priety of the attempt so soon became evident to the few 
seniors who were with the party, that a halt was called 
for a discussion, which however was interrupted 
by a fiery spirit from Adughum (one perhaps of the 
hundred Tughuz who had previously sworn to stand 
by him in effecting something if they met the enemy, 
or perish) dashing forward as fast as the deep marsh 
beyond the banks would admit of. He was followed 



396 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



by about fifty of the dehli -khans, and the two Eng- 
lishmen, the rest of the party remaining on the river's 
bank. 

Jambolet, an elderly tokav of extraordinary cou- 
rage, who accompanied my countrymen, then repre- 
sented to them that it was their presence which 
caused the others to persevere in their attempt, and 
that to them would be attributed any disastrous con- 
sequences which might result. This argument, joined 
to other considerations I shall mention immediately, 
served to convince them of the propriety of their not 
urging the others forward by their presence ; and as 
the impracticability of the attempt had now become 
but too palpable, they all turned their horses' heads 
towards the river — evidently to the infinite mortifi- 
cation of many — and made the best of their way 
back. The considerations which, so far as I have been 
able to learn, determined Shamuz and his council of 
elders to countermand the expedition, were these : — 
1st, The decayed state of the ice on the river, which, 
had a considerable portion of the army been obliged 
by the operations of the enemy to go suddenly upon 
it, might have given way, and caused a frightful and 
useless sacrifice of life ; other branches, or, at least, 
overflowings, of the river being also to be crossed, 
the ice of which must have been equally unsafe. 
2nd, The thaw of the marshes on each side of the 
river which prevented the co-operation of the infantry, 
upon which lay the chief dependence for covering the 
retreat, which was to have been at a place higher up, 
where the ice might have been as bad, or even worse. 
These are the main and apparently sufficient reasons ; 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



397 



to which may be added — that, supposing the Kuban 
to have been safely crossed by the whole cavalry, its 
advance thereafter could have been only along a sort 
of natural causeway or slight elevation, (the reeds on 
which are of less growth,) as the marshes on each 
side were too deep, and the principal and further part 
of this causeway formed a right angle with an emi- 
nence at its termination, upon which a strong body 
of Russians were drawn up, with artillery, which 
would have raked the Circassians' line most destruc- 
tively in its advance. 

The Kuban here is not above a fourth of the 
breadth of the Thames at Westminster ; but the 
reeds and marshes extend to a mile, or a mile and a 
half, on each side. Considerably further up, the river 
forms two branches, and the northern is much the 
larger. 

This, so far as I can learn, was the largest muster 
that has taken place in this province for some time ; 
and many are the wailings we have heard that so 
fine an army was prevented acting by the unfavour- 
able state of the previous weather ; the mortification 
of the men of this province being increased by their 
having heard that their neighbours of Shapsuk, under 
Ghuzel Beg, have just made a successful foray into 
Russia, and returned safely with very large booty ; 
which booty, in spite of Mensur's speech, might per- 
haps have formed the leading object for a large por- 
tion of the Notwhatsh army. 

But this muster must by no means be considered 
as the fighting force of the province, as it was made 
suddenly, and it is said — and we believe justly— that 



398 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



one, more than ten times as large, could be effected 
if requisite. For the objects that were in view on 
the occasion in question ; viz. the storming of some 
of the smaller Russian protecting forts (which ex- 
tend along the top of a hill at about five to six miles 
from the river, the intervening space being left unin- 
habited), and the destruction of a large Russian vil- 
lage, the late muster was considered by the chiefs as 
much too large ; and they say that its greatness 
might even have been prejudiciaL I say Russian 
village, for on my asking my medical companion if 
the Tatars, who form the great majority of the 
population on the other side, were ever attacked in 
such expeditions, he seemed rather hurt, and replied, 
" those who are of the same religion as ourselves, 
always enjoy perfect security." 

It required but little time to ascertain the causes 
of this man's malady (a violent retching, sometimes 
bringing up blood, after his meals) ; for he was candid 
enough, as most Turks and Circassians are, in re- 
spect of their errors, in answer to my inquiry as to 
whether he had ever in his life been a hard drinker, 
to confess that, when he was a prisoner to the Rus- 
sians, he had learned to drink, and did so then, and 
afterwards among the Turks of Anapa, to great 
excess. This and his present bad management 
appear causes sufficient for the delicacy of his sto- 
mach, and it was painfully ludicrous so see him, 
during the few days we were together, eat, notwith- 
standing my advice, as heartily as one in health, and 
then shortly afterwards stretch himself on a mattress 
and have a man tread upwards, upon his back, to 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 399 

promote his vomiting ! I taught him a substitute 
for this barbarous practice, and gave him some medi- 
cine and much advice, yet I fear he must eventually, 
and like many others, fall, self-immolated, to the 
" god of his belly. ,, 

The day after the attempted crossing of the Kuban 
a council of the chiefs was held upon the affair of the 
embassy to London ; and after repeated messages 
.passing between it and us, we found it impossible to 
agree, as we insisted upon the matter being gone 
about immediately, in order that the ambassadors and 
letters from the different provinces might accompany 
Nadir Bey by the first ship that sails after the Kurban- 
Beiram, so as to be in England as early as possible 
during the ensuing session of parliament : while they 
exhausted all their ingenuity to devise reasons why 
nothing should be done till after the period of that 
sacrifice (about the 12th of March), by which time 
they say they shall in all probability have received 
an answer to their letter to Sefir Bey, from Aduglrum. 

This question of delay was the sole one of debate and 
disagreement. Presuming, as we do, from a letter 
which Lord Ponsonby did me the honour of addressing 
to me, that nothing but disappointment, and the loss 
of most critical time, was likely to come from the 
negotiation said to have been opened by his lordship 
with Sefir Bey, we did all in our power to drive the 
Circassians from that false scent, during the two 
ensuing days, but without success, for they perhaps 
think they are now in higher hands ; and, as it ap- 
pears certain that the waiting for these letters from 
Constantinople may protract matters infinitely beyond 



400 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



the time Nadir Bey can possibly remain in this 
country — on account of private affairs of importance 
— he has been reluctantly obliged to abandon the 
idea of taking the ambassadors with him. 

In this Constantinople negotiation — hitherto kept 
in a great measure in the back-ground — we now see, 
" or think we see," the clue for the labyrinth of per- 
plexity we had so long wandered in ; viz., that 
while desiring, as all here ardently do, the interpo- 
sition of England, they have been, on that account, 
unwilling to controvert us directly in any respect ; 
hoping that eventually they might be enabled in- 
directly to effect their own plan, which was to protract 
our stay in the country till they received these much- 
desired letters from Sefir Bey, and then to go forward 
with the good news they expect them to contain, and 
produce a great excitement in Abazak and the pro- 
vinces eastward on the Kuban, which might thus be 
induced not only to join readily in sending ambas- 
sadors and addresses to England, but to give perhaps 
immediate assistance to the two provinces of Shapsuk 
and Notwhatsh, in carrying on the war. For these 
reasons we were allowed to project our journey to 
Abazak, and received abundant promises of accom- 
paniment, the fulfilment of which was put aside by 
Shamuz and others, when we came to require it, 
in the manner I have related. To us two who have 
been longest here, this so unlooked-for defeat in re- 
gard to the embassy to England is a severe mortifica- 
tion ; for we looked upon that mission as the crowning 
of all the labour and sacrifices we have bestowed upon 
the country. We fondly hoped that, although 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



401 



the self-interest of our countrymen in the inde- 
pendence of Circassia might sleep on, their sympathy 
would at length be awakened to a friendly inter- 
position for the relief of this long-suffering, heroic 
people. At all events we were convinced that, by 
means of that mission to England, the withering doubt 
the Circassians have so long endured would be finally 
put an end to. Now that it is equally nugatory to 
expect that another individual may soon be found 
generous enough to make the Circassians an offer 
similar to that of Nadir Bey, or that they themselves 
can be induced, in the absence of any provision in the 
country for public purposes so new to them, to make 
contributions for an object the good of which will, we 
fear, become to them, on the receipt of those letters 
from Sefir Bey, exceedingly problematical, we can 
only hope that such an embassy has become unneces- 
sary through what may have been already effected in 
England for the cause of Circassia, by those who are 
in this respect in advance of their countrymen, by- 
conviction as to its vast importance to the well-being 
of Turkey, of Persia, and of the British empire 
and influence in the East. 



VOL. I. 



D D 



LETTER XVII. 



WEAKENING OF THE ARISTOCRACY IN CIRCASSIA — 
CONJECTURES REGARDING THE ORIGIN OF THE 
CIRCASSIANS — SERFS, OR PSHILT — THFOKOTL, 

OR FREEMEN — PSHE, OR PRINCES VORK, OR 

NOBLEMEN DEPARTURE OF NADIR BEY MORE 

RUSSIAN AGGRESSION. 

Semez, 1st March, 1838. 

My dear . M. Klaproth in his " tableau 

du Caucase" makes the number of houses in these 
two provinces — the approximate exactness of which 
he thinks he may guarantee as taken " de pieces 
authentiques " — to be only 15,350 ; which, at his 
calculation of nine persons to two houses, would give 
a total of only 69>075. Now, as it was shown by my 
last letter, that on a brief notice of three to four days 
— circulated through, certainly, not above one-third of 
the province of Notwhatsh, and only on the border of 
Shapsuk, which is by much the more populous of the 
two— from 4000 to 5000 volunteer warriors assembled, 
a shrewd inference may be drawn as to the depend- 
ence to be placed upon the "piSces authentiques? 
from which our author drew his estimate of the 
Caucasian populations*. 

Here, as elsewhere, the revolution which has taken 
place in the system of warfare, attendant upon the 
introduction of commerce, has contributed to pro- 
duce a revolution in the grades of society. The coat 

* His tableau will however be found in the Appendix, as it is the only 
one of the Caucasian populations I know of. 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 403 

of mail, helmet, and bow, with which the Circassian 
prince or noble was formerly armed, even although 
permitted to be worn by the common people (as it is 
said they were not), were articles of too great value 
to be in general use, for none of them were manu- 
factured in this country. Many of these coats of 
mail were musket -proof, and, when fire-arms were 
little used, one brave and strong individual must 
have been himself a host. His protection must 
therefore have been courted by all in his immediate 
neighbourhood who were not entitled, or had not the 
means, to be armed as he was. But the two causes I 
have mentioned have contributed to change all this. 
The coat of mail which was worth from ten up to 
two hundred oxen, according to quality, can now be 
bought for less than half its former value (as it has 
been found not to be cannon-proof) ; the bow has 
been found to be a much less efficient and more 
costly weapon than the rifle or pistol ; one or either 
or both of which, are now possessed by almost every 
shepherd-boy. Many of the tokavs, and even of the 
serfs, have become by trade (to be engaged in which 
is generally considered degrading for the other two 
classes) much richer than most of the nobles and 
princes, and therefore capable of providing means to 
protect themselves. To these causes of the declining 
influence of the aristocracy has, however, to be added 
— at least in the provinces which are most under 
Turkish influence — one of still greater efficacy, to 
which I have already more than once alluded ; viz. 
the advocacy by the Turks of an entire equality, as 
founded on the principles of the Koran, that all men 

D D 2 



404 



RESIDENCE IN CI RCA SSI A. 



are equal in the sight of God. At this principle, so 
far as regards the distribution of justice between man 
and man, no one can cavil ; but, be it prejudice or 
not, I cannot avoid regretting the gradual process of 
assimilation that is now going on, and which must 
eventually obliterate all traces of those whom the 
consciousness of a pure and ancient descent from the 
chivalrous Saracens made the conservators of a higher 
tone of feeling, and greater delicacy of manners, than 
are generally prevalent. 

If the country should become annexed to Turkey, 
or remain independent as hitherto under her influ- 
ence, this process must then go on rapidly, — not 
probably by the direct interference of the sultan or 
his pashas, so much as by the nourishment that will 
be given to the idea of equality that is already 
widely disseminated among the people. But if, 
on the other hand, it shall become a province of 
Russia, another and totally different process will com- 
mence ; the power and influence of the nobles will 
then be revived, but their ancient basis — the respect 
of the people, as well as the birth-right of antique 
descent — will (for the process is at work in Russia) 
be gradually destroyed; and the good- will of the 
Emperor, as evinced by the military rank he may 
confer, will become the substitute ; and some future 
traveller will probably find in the manners of the 
Circassian noble, that the dignified composure and 
simple elegance which now characterise him have 
become replaced by military arrogance and awkward 
imitation of European fashion. But if such he find 
the alteration in the condition and manners of the 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



405 



prince and noble, what will be that in those of the 
class beneath him ? " the successors," as is said in an 
eloquent address from Daud Bey to the Circassians, 
which we have just received — " the successors of a 
free inheritance of 5000 years?" who will find them- 
selves, at once and irrevocably, deprived of that ines- 
timable benefit on which they now so much pride 
themselves ; forced to fight the battles of Russia 
against their co-religionists, and to conform their 
trade to her tariff and commercial capabilities ; by 
which they will find that they are obliged to give 
their most valuable products for her bad manufactures, 
and that all vent for their more ordinary articles, 
which compete with her own, has been closed. In 
short, she will enact here what she does in Georgia 
and the provinces between it and the Black Sea 
— the fable of the dog in the manger ; for she has 
as yet no means for developing commerce, and 
foreigners who have, will not come to trade in these 
provinces under her protection, as it will only 
ensure to them the inveterate hatred of the natives. 
Such must be the state of affairs for a long period — 
eventually other fruits of her designs may be deve- 
loped, if she be allowed to bring them to maturity. The 
Turks, and other people of the East, in their ancient 
traditions, speak always of Constantine as Emperor of 
Constantinople, as if that monarch had had an ante- 
diluvian duration of life : it would be more excusable 
in them to speak of Peter the Great (great in nothing 
that I know of but his energy in physical achieve- 
ments) as still Emperor of Russia ; for his spirit still 
directs her councils, and brings to maturity his pro- 



.406 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



jects, with a perseverance and unity of purpose truly 
miraculous. 

With relation to the story I formerly repeated to 
you, about the descent of the Circassians from the 
princes of Arabia, I find that Count Potoski had 
a similar tradition narrated to him forty years ago, 
in regard to the ancestry of the princes of Kabarda, 
whose genealogical tree he took the trouble to trace 
thence. It appears to me there must be some truth 
in an opinion so generally received, and that any 
error in the tale must consist in ascribing the people, 
instead of the princes only, to this source ; for there 
is no affinity between the languages of the two 
countries. In fact, great difficulty must ever be 
found in the way of any one who wishes to study 
this people philosophically, from the impenetrable 
cloud that conceals its descent as well as its earlier 
history (the conduct of the boy which forms often 
the best key to that of the man), and which will 
prevent him from accounting for many anomalies 
that must appear in their institutions, manners, pre- 
judices, and ruling passions ; in short, in their 
national character. And this difficulty will be found 
attended by another almost equal to it — that of 
ascertaining precisely the tone of feeling and modes 
of thought of the people through the foreign lan- 
guage—foreign to both — in which conversation must 
be held ; for I presume it will be long before an 
individual capable of that study will be found who 
is at the same time disposed to remain sufficiently 
long among the people to master entirely their own 
uncouth tongue. 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



407 



The same observations apply to all the other - 
ancient Caucasian populations, with the exception of 
the Ossetes and the Georgians, the former of whom 
are pretty well ascertained to have been a colony of 
Medes, and the latter have always been known to 
history, and possess ancient although somewhat 
fabulous written chronicles. Amid the Lesghis, the 
Mitsjeghis, the Adighes, Azras, &c, our philosopher 
must wander in conjecture, and often be as much at 
a loss to account for the origin of some general 
institution or prejudice, as a savage would be to 
account for the giant ruins of an aqueduct. 

The habit of regarding the soil as the property of 
all, must I should think be looked upon as one of 
the prime causes of much that may be found most 
peculiar in the institutions of the Circassians. From 
this it may also be inferred that the remote ancestors 
of the people were freeborn nomades of plains, who 
preferred the nurture of flocks and herds to the fixed 
occupation of agriculture, which has in all probability 
been introduced among them at a comparatively 
recent period. Thus we find that the laws with 
regard to the payment of fines for crimes, and many 
other transactions between individuals, make the 
standard of payment so many head of oxen, for 
which other articles may be substituted by mutual 
agreement. 

Whether the serfs are descendants of prisoners 
taken in war, or of the primitive inhabitants of the 
country conquered and enslaved by the others, I 
find it impossible to discover. Here in the north they 
are much outnumbered by the free population, which 



408 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



seems to lead to the former conclusion ; while from 
Vardan southward the reverse is the case. Wealth 
is estimated in the latter district according to the 
number of serfs possessed by an individual, while 
northward it depends on the amount of herds and 
flocks. Upon the whole, I am led to conclude, in 
regard to this north-western portion of the country, 
that as it is known to be peopled by a mixed breed, 
and that the Kabardan Circassians were the invaders 
after having long resided in the Crimea, the present 
race of serfs may be descended from a conquered 
portion of the aborigines. This opinion seems 
further corroborated by the circumstances of its 
dialect differing considerably from that of Kabarda, 
the seat of the pure Circassian race, and of the serfs 
being more numerous in those parts which lie at a 
distance from the richer country towards the Kuban, 
from which it is probable that the conquerors drove 
the original occupants. 

Klaproth has been misinformed as to the Thfokotls 
being serfs * ; all agree they never were such ; 
although it is admitted that the Pshes (princes) and 
Vorks (nobles) formerly possessed more power, and 
that each sept of the latter had a sept of the Thfokotls 
attached, and in some degree subservient to it. Al- 
most the only trace of this former power that now 
remains here consists, as I said, in certain usages of 
courtesy. Titles are never used even in addressing 
Pshes : their own servants sometimes use " Zuishan," 
a term of endearment used by an atalik to his pro- 



* The Circassian word for a serf is " Pshilt." 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



409 



tegL In a national assembly the descendants of 
Khans seat themselves on the ground first, then the 
Pshes, then the Vorks, and lastly the Thfokotls. 
Those of inferior rank always remain standing until 
all their superiors have set them the example of 
being seated. 

A man and woman deserted from Anapa the other 
day ; their captors wished to dispose of them sepa- 
rately, when they represented themselves as man 
and wife, and it was consequently determined that 
they should not be separated. What a pleasing con- 
trast this treatment by the Circassians, of Ghiaour 
enemies, affords to a disgusting scene I witnessed two 
years and-a-half since in Christian Charleston, where 
a brute of an auctioneer exercised all the wit he pos- 
sessed to turn to ridicule the tears and entreaties of 
a black slave-girl, in order that the spectators might 
bid for her apart from her mother, and thus at a 
higher rate. 

Towards the end of last month the Russians made 
a sortie from A bun, and captured some cattle and 
sheep. Such an enterprise on the part of the garri- 
son of any of these smaller forts is new, and must, I 
think, be occasioned by want of provisions among 
the soldiers, or the over-confidence and exposure of 
their stock on the part of the neighbouring Circas- 
sians. The Russian garrisons of the two new forts 
of Pshat and Tshopsin are so hemmed in by their 
neighbours that they may be called prison ers-at-war : 
water they have from the rivers at their feet ; for 
everything else — even firewood — they are dependent 
upon the supplies that may be brought them by sea. 



410 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



One of these prisoners of the latter fort, desirous 
of more liberty, or wishing to reconnoitre the pre- 
cincts, procured a complete Circassian dress ; but 
with egregious want of cunning, he had it garnished 
with too much silver lace, and he carried, moreover, 
his pistol in his hand, instead of sticking it in his 
belt. These peculiarities were sufficient to attract 
the attention of some of the numerous scouts who 
are always on the watch around the forts to catch 
deserters or pick off stragglers. Two of them watched 
this adventurous wight ; but although soon convinced 
that he was " a wolf in sheepskin," they wished, if 
possible, to take him alive, and therefore waited till 
they should get near enough to him, when one of 
them, with a stick, adroitly struck the pistol out of 
his hand, and both pinioned him, before he could 
betake himself to other defence. The common salu- 
tation, " Wasshaff-shi," which he had used in passing 
these men, was all the Circassian he had learned for 
his feat. 

Shamuz w 7 as absent several days and nights, in 
consequence of his being anxiously engaged, with a 
great many others, in the trial of a youth of this 
valley, who had become an adroit thief, and rendered 
it necessary to arrest his career. Our reverend and 
active konak* has, since the completion of this busi- 
ness, gone to the coast between Ghelenjik and Pshat 
with our countryman, whom he purposes to attend 
till the vessel he is to sail in get a fair wind. As 
neither of us who remain have the ambition of a 



* Bizim is the Circassian word for a host and protector. 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



Ill 



Caesar, this departure of one of our triumvirate is 
felt as a great privation : for the youthful and buoy- 
ant spirit of Nadir Bey had contributed much to 
sustain ours, which began to flag; while his liberality 
(our resources having also begun to flag) contributed 
equally to revive that character for our party. We 
have little fear as to his getting safely away, even 
from between two forts ; for their garrisons dare not 
venture out to burn the vessel, and accidents are 
seldom occasioned by the cruisers to vessels leaving 
the coast. 

As to that of Sefir Bey burned lately at Anapa, 
(whose garrison be it remembered is always nume- 
rous,) it would have been unaccountable if she had been 
suffered to depart. Her Turkish captain was entirely 
ignorant of the coast, and was making his way 
directly towards Anapa, when some Circassians on 
the shore made signs for him to stop. But he was 
already opposite the glen of the Sukwa, within five 
miles of the fortress, and there they had the hardihood 
to haul the vessel on shore and allow her to remain. 
A little way to the south, she would have been in 
perfect safety, unless a very large force had been 
employed against her— so much for the prevention of 
trade by means of these forts ! A Polish deserter 
from Tainan, whom I have just seen, reports that 
the Russians during the sortie had twenty men killed 
and about as many wounded. He reports also that a 
reinforcement and new governor have been sent to 
Anapa ; that a large force had arrived at Taman, 
and that a very hot campaign may be expected by 
the Circassians. He heard that a great army, said 



412 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



to be headed by the Englishmen, had intended cross- 
ing the Kuban, in consequence of which a strong 
Russian force was prepared to encounter it. 

5th.- — A great deal of cannon-firing having been 
heard here for several days past, both in the direction 
of Anapa and from the south, it would appear that 
the blockading squadron is busy— in transport service 
probably, for we have not heard of any captures; and the 
firing therefore was most likely occasioned by salutes. 

12th. — A servant whom Nadir Bey sent to Con- 
stantinople to bring a ship to take him hence, arrived 
here yesterday and brought me letters of such an 
encouraging purport as to the trade of the coast 
being speedily thrown open to British enterprise 
under the protection of Government, that I have 
abandoned the idea I began to entertain of going to 
Constantinople for the purpose of more easy corre- 
spondence with London, and shall now await for some 
time longer the fulfilment of the expectations held 
out. I ardently hope they may be well based and 
speedily realised, as every reaction comes now to tell 
against us with increasing severity; and, if more 
occur, our situation must soon become exceedingly 
embarrassing. 

Nadir Bey set sail on the evening of the 8th, with 
a fair breeze ; but his intended departure had pro- 
bably been heard of by the enemy, one of whose 
cruisers shortly before approached the place where 
the Turkish ship lay beached, apparently for the 
purpose of burning or otherwise destroying her. 
Our lively countryman and a large Circassian force 
were speedily ranged along the shore for her defence; 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



413 



and the Russians, seeing such alacrity of preparation, 
after firing a few long shots, sheered off; On the even- 
ing of Nadir Bey's departure, another great assemblage 
of the neighbours took place ; and after they had 
launched his ship, with uplifted hands they simul- 
taneously uttered a prayer for the safety of her 
voyage. Shamuz and others remained on the hill- 
side till late in the evening, watching the wind, and 
eagerly listening lest any cannon-reports might an- 
nounce the enemy having fallen in with the little 
Turkish craft, which had old Shamuz been classical 
he would probably have apostrophised in the ardent 
words of Horace ; " Navis quse tibi creditum debes,'' 
&c. ; for, in sober earnest, he has declared that he 
loves him as his own son ; and if an enthusiasm in 
the cause of this country, such as neither danger nor 
privations can appal, deserve such return of feeling 
on the part of Circassians, Nadir Bey has already 
earned it. Yet in proportion as his arrival and stay 
here contributed to enliven us, has his departure — 
for the land and scenes our longings for which we had 
so far suppressed — tended to depress us, and render 
us impatient at the tedious growth, if indeed there 
be yet any, of English interest in the affairs of this 
country. But if it exist and shall eventually reach 
the maturity of action, we shall then have a truly 
rich reward in witnessing the joyful acclamations of 
a people rescued from degradation and misery ; and 
as Captain Hall (a critique on whose last (?) lively 
book I have just been reading) and his whole family 
remained so long in seclusion at Schloss Hainfeld, 
for the purpose of laying the old and decrepit 



414 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



Countess in her grave, how much more urgently are 
we called upon to make ten times greater sacrifices, if 
they can at all contribute, to prevent the noble and 
vigorous Circassia from being brought prematurely 
to hers ! And the 4 Destroyer' yearly multiplies his 
efforts to bring about that consummation ; for un- 
satiated by the sanguinary warfare he has so long 
waged against these provinces that have refused to 
make peace except on equitable terms, we heard, 
three days since, that a large force had suddenly 
entered the provinces eastward on the Kuban, which 
have for years been at peace with Russia, but which 
it would seem it is now wished to drive to the 
extremities of warfare or of abject submission ; for 
they are required, as we learn, to furnish returns 
of the population, &c, as if they already belonged to 
Russia. 

15th. — It has already become generally known 
that we have received letters from England, and 
among the many who have come to learn the news 
they contain, areMehmet EfFendi and Ali-bi of Ozerek, 
who were chiefly instrumental in thwarting us in 
Shapsuk during winter, as I have told you before ; 
but the personally aggravating portion of the affair 
the judge utterly denies, as well as all intention to 
give us any offence. He appears perfectly contrite, 
and as he has suffered in his health in his exertions 
in administering the oath during that severe weather, 
and in his pocket for his indiscretion towards us, 
(which is undeniable,) by missing a considerable 
present which Nadir Bey had intended bestowing 
on him, we judged it best to forgive him, and even 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



415 



add a present for the exertion he has used in trans- 
lating the very eloquent address from Baud Bey to 
the Circassians. This address has, as may be sup- 
posed, elicited great admiration from all who have 
yet heard it. Shamuz says, " it is evidently written 
by a man of a great mind, and who is fit to be the 
king of any country." 

It is not out of place to quote here another 
remark of Shamuz : — " It is better to be a shep- 
herd on these hills, than a Turkish general; because 
the latter is no more sure of his life than the 
sheep of the former" — as exemplifying a strong 
sense of the advantages of " the hollow tree, the 
crust of bread, and liberty;" for we have just learned 
by our letters, that the bowstring has been adminis- 
tered, — no doubt under the influence of the Russian 
ambassador, — to Fertiff Pasha, a stanch friend of the 
English interest. Although the would-be emperor 
of this country does not thus rid himself of those of 
his subjects who have incurred his displeasure, his 
sentence to the Siberian mines — a life without a ray 
of hope or enjoyment— is infinitely more frightful. 

The only thing in the shape of newspapers we 
have seen for many a month, are some numbers of 
the Allgemeine Zeitung, humanely sent us from 
Constantinople ; and among other gratifications they 
have yielded us — as tidings from a world we have 
been in a manner dead to — were the surprise and 
gratification of Mehmet Effendi, at hearing trans- 
lated to him General Williamineff's letter to the 
Circassians, and their reply of May last. Nor has 
our gratification been small at having a proof thus 



416 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



afforded to our friends here, that we have been the 
means of making their cause more known and felt 
for in Europe. 

Some idea may be formed of the privations of the 
people during this protracted struggle, and of the 
precipitancy with which they catch at any idea of 
relief through the interposition of England, by the 
circumstance of their having just sent to inquire of 
us if they should sow their grain in the valley this 
spring. 

YQth. — A wealthy tokav and active warrior from 
the neighbourhood of Anapa, who is almost every 
night upon guard, with others, around the fortress, 
has just been to pay us a visit, in return for one we 
lately made him. He had been not long ago on a 
mission into the fortress about prisoners, when the 
governor desired him to deliver us his compliments, 
and inform us that he knew our residence, and should 
soon have the pleasure of entertaining us at his 
table, as he meant to send a boat for us with that 
view. This courteous message was not delivered to 
us till after our tokav friend had departed. He had 
told it apart to my dragoman, having been ashamed, 
as he said, to deliver such a message in our presence ! 
The message it must be allowed is nevertheless a very 
good message, and shows the wit of the new governor. 

Here are neither tailors, shoemakers, nor hatters, 
every man getting all articles of his dress made by 
his female relations or friends. In fact, the only 
tradesmen I have seen or heard of are silversmiths, 
who ornament urns, gun and sword-smiths, cart- 
wrights, and a few coopers. Each family builds its 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



417 



own house or houses, the only furniture of which, 
beside some home-made benches and stools, are chests, 
mattresses, pillows, and coverlets, brought from 
Turkey, or home-made ; mats from the banks of the 
Kuban, where the reed they are made of abounds, 
iron pots, small round tripod tables, or rather trays, 
and a few other articles. It may thus be easily 
conceived how slight a matter is the moving of any 
household upon an emergency. 

A young tokav of this valley, who has just carried 
off his bride without the consent of her parents and 
a regular contract as to price, will be obliged to pay 
so much dearer for his " dearie ; " viz. — two male and 
two female serfs, a coat of mail, a sword and pistol 
ornamented with silver, besides sheep and oxen to 
the value of nearly two hundred pounds ; instead of 
which he would in the usual way have had to pay 
only about a half of this amount. In both cases, 
however, considerable time is given, often several 
years, to make up the payment. 

I have been amused with an account of the zeal 
our handsome hostess has displayed for the conver- 
sion of my young handsome Georgian. She tells 
him that his religion is only for this world, but that 
he should think also of the next, to which he may be 
summoned in a day or an hour. But not trusting 
entirely to these eloquent appeals, she adds that if he 
become a Mussulman, he shall be as their son, shall 
live with them, have part of their heritage, and, 
above all, a beautiful young wife ! — Let our fair sup- 
porters of missionary societies take the hint. 

Yesterday we had a visit from the mobocracy of 

VOL. I. £ E 



418 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



this valley, whose self-estimation has had a forced 
growth by the beams of our presence having been so 
long shed upon it, and who came to demand of 
Shamuz why he had sent away one of the English- 
men without consulting them ; why he was about to 
escort another to the south, without letting them 
know whether he also intended to depart the country ; 
why he sent to places at a distance to communicate 
the news just arrived from England, and not to 
them ; why, in short, he played the noble with them, 
and acted so unneighbourly as not to seek their advice 
in matters of such importance ? — following up their 
interrogations with a threat of their displeasure, in 
case more deference were not paid them in future. 
Our wise old Bizim treated the whole affair with the 
good-humoured indifference such overweening folly 
deserved. With respect to the second of their ques- 
tions, he likened me (who purpose going southward) 
to a bird perched on his finger, whose wings were 
free, and might be used to take it where it pleased. 

When in the south, last year, I mentioned a sort 
of chamber of deputies being constituted in this 
portion of the country, and I have omitted hitherto 
to explain further about it. Twelve individuals 
were elected as a species of temporary government, 
and three were deputed to go to Constantinople to 
conduct matters there in concert with Sefir Bey, in 
accordance with recommendations from Daud Bey. 
All these wise arrangements, however, were departed 
from upon my arrival, it having been considered as 
superseding any necessity for them. One deputy 
only — Hasesh— proceeded to Constantinople, and 



RESIDENCE IN C1RCASSIA. 



419 



the council of twelve discontinued its sittings, my 
countrymen and I having subsequently come to be 
considered as governors of the country ad interim ! 

A tokav, who formed, or affected to have, a strong 
attachment for Nadir Bey, and who has lost his 
horse in battle, has been going the round of his 
friends (among whom he inscribes us) to get contri- 
butions, according to a custom which prevails in the 
case of those who are not rich enough to buy another. 

On the 9th, we heard here that Russia had com- 
menced* proceedings against the Kuban provinces 
which had for seven or eight years been at peace with 
her ; but before chronicling so important an event, 
I thought it right to wait for confirmation and am- 
pler details. These have now been received, and seem 
to exemplify a novel and bolder system on the part 
of Russia. In my letter of 21st December, I enu- 
merated to you the provinces which had combined in 
the appointment of Sefir Bey as their ambassador, and 
in a general engagement with him against submission 
to Russia. Such of them as lie on the Kuban, to 
the eastward of Shapsuk, are composed either of 
plains or of undulating country of great richness and 
beauty, which, being easily practicable for military 
operations, and the inhabitants being congregated in 
large villages, they are thus in a very inferior con- 
dition for offering resistance to the enemy ; and they 
present easy opportunities for his gaining rapid and 
decided advantages as compared with their neigh- 
bours, who have mountains for resistance and refuge 
and no villages. For these reasons they had found 
themselves under the necessity of coming to terms of 

E E 2 



420 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



mutual forbearance with Russia, which they empow- 
ered Hatukwoi-oku Jambolet Bey to conclude. So 
far as we have been able to learn, this treaty has 
remained unviolated on their part ; as was proved by 
the incident I mentioned, of the people of Abazak 
having obliged some individuals, who had driven 
the cattle they had taken in a foray into Russia 
across the territory of Psadug, to restore them, lest 
this circumstance might be considered as a breach 
of the contract in which the latter province was 
bound. 

Psadug, Hatukwoi, and Temigui^ are the provinces 
against which it is supposed proceedings are at pre- 
sent chiefly to be taken. General Sass is now in 
Hatukwoi-— the least extensive of the three — which 
he entered suddenly with a large force, to the infinite 
consternation of its inhabitants, who knew of no cause 
why the treaty of peace they had entered into should 
be broken. A meeting of the chiefs and elders was 
therefore called, for the purpose of demanding an 
explanation from the Russian general ; when he coolly 
replied that that treaty was at an end, the chief who had 
made it on their part being dead (!) — that they must 
thenceforth consider themselves as Russian subjects ; 
must furnish him with returns of population ; and 
abstain from trade and all other intercourse with the 
Abazaks, &c. He has also nominated one of their 
chiefs governor, to carry into execution these imperial 
mandates. I have not yet heard who this func- 
tionary is ; but he may, if his pride so tend, boast of 
being the first whom Russia has attempted to nomi- 
nate in a country, which for ten years past she has 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



421 



presumptuously placed in her maps, and proclaimed 
to Europe as a province of her empire. 

If one dare indulge in a smile where " angels 
weep," the " fantastic tricks " of this double-faced 
power were enough to provoke it. Towards Europe 
she endeavours to wear an aspect of justice and mag- 
nanimity — towards Asia her features betray rapacity, 
treachery, and cruelty, such as, it will be further seen, 
the instance in question exemplifies ; and many of a 
similar nature might doubtless be gathered on her 
remoter frontiers, where the public opinion of Europe, 
which she strives so sedulously to conciliate — if not by 
her acts, at least by her glosses of them — cannot be 
affected ; nor where even that of Russia, such as it is, 
can penetrate to check functionaries in the means 
they adopt to merit imperial favour, by accomplishing 
what they know to be desired by their government. 

Jambolet Bey, who was a relation of Sefir Bey, 
although on a similar footing with the other inde- 
pendent chiefs of these provinces, is said to have 
possessed more influence and power than any of them, 
not only on account of his zeal for the welfare of these 
provinces, but also on account of his energy and in- 
tegrity of character, which induced him to see scru- 
pulously to the observance of the treaty with Russia, 
and, at the same time, to prevent all approximation 
to her treacherous friendship. His two nearest male 
relatives had been cut off by her means ; yet, in the 
confidence of a generous spirit, he went into her 
territory about a year since, attended by only one 
servant, to demand of this General Sass an heir-loom, 
an ancient gun, on which he set value, and which the 



422 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



general had captured at the house of his konak in one 
of the belligerent provinces of the neighbourhood. 
It is said that during this interview an altercation 
occurred between the two, the general reproaching 
the bey with having broken the treaty with Russia, 
by fighting against her in disguise, which the latter 
indignantly denied. He set out for his house, but 
was waylaid in a defile in a forest, just as he had 
entered his own province, by a Noghai and some 
Cossacks, shot at, and mortally wounded. He sur- 
vived one day ; and, with a prophetic vision of what 
has since occurred, with his dying breath he desired 
that his son might be sent, for safety, into Abazak. 
In this dark foreboding others, no doubt, participated ; 
but the circumstances of the murder, or at all events 
the power of the perpetrators, or of their protectors, 
rendered retribution impracticable ; yet to abate (as 
is supposed) the general outcry it occasioned, Sass 
was recalled to St. Petersburgh, and there (as it may 
further be supposed) he assigned such reasons — 
either retro- or pro-spective — why he should not be 
punished for the crime which had been committed 
under his command, that he was soon restored 
to it. 

It is said that one chief purpose for which the 
enumeration of the population in these Kuban pro- 
vinces is urged, is to ascertain, as nearly as possible, 
the quantities of salt and other goods they may re- 
quire for their own consumption ; beyond which all 
supplies are to be withheld from them, lest they should 
send the surplus into Abazak, and the other mountain 
provinces to the south. To force these provinces to 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



423 



come to terms by such means, and a strict blockade 
of the coast, appears to be one great object with 
Russia at present. 

But there is another danger to be provided for ; 
viz. that of the inhabitants of the provinces in ques- 
tion, who are generally considered faithful Mussul- 
mans and true Circassians, being driven to such extre- 
mities as to seek refuge among their mountain neigh- 
bours to the south. For the purpose, it is presumed, 
of cutting off such retreat from Temigui, Sass — the 
Bayard of the sycophants of imperialism on the lower 
Elbe — some time since made overtures to the people 
of Shagerai, a mountain district to the south of the 
former ; but they very wisely, instead of believing in 
the friendship which Russia then professed for them, 
immediately placed a guard upon their frontier ; and 
it proved well they had done so, for Sass soon after 
suddenly appeared there with a body of troops, when 
a noble of the fraternity of Meisham, who happened to 
be on guard, instantly attacked them, and with a very 
few coadjutors kept up a running fight, until his 
countrymen caught the alarm. He soon fell, and the 
Russians decapitated him, in accordance with a prac- 
tice they have lately adopted of mutilating the bodies 
that fall into their power, either for the purpose of 
outraging the feelings for their dead generally enter- 
tained by the Circassians, or to make more of them 
quit the field in bearing off the bodies of those that 
fall, to prevent this outrage ; but his heroic, his 
Thermoplyaean resistance, had given time for his 
countrymen to assemble, and reoulse the invaders 
with considerable slaughter. Sass'and his freebooters 



424 



RESIDENCE IN C1RCASSIA. 



were, however, subsequently more successful in a 
foray they made upon the banks of the Shagwashe in 
Abazak, which district he effectually surprised, carry- 
ing off some hundred head of cattle and sheep, and 
twelve of the unfortunate shepherds. 

The people of Psadug having for some time fore- 
seen the storm that now so nearly threatens them, 
(as the letter from Hatukwo'i I sent you in the sum- 
mer proves their neighbours also did,) provided for 
it to the best of their power by bespeaking a refuge 
among the mountains of Abazak, if they should be 
driven to the alternative of flying from their homes. 
This refuge was readily promised formerly ; and on 
the present occasion, when the danger so imminently 
presses, the reply of the Abazaks — as we learn from 
one who was present when the messengers were de- 
spatched — was proportionally generous and conso- 
latory. It was to this effect : — " As our religion 
is the same, so shall we share with you, as brothers, 
our homes, and all that we possess." In order further 
to encourage their brethren in rejecting submission 
to the common enemy, they offered to place hostages 
in their hands for the fulfilment of this promise. 



LETTER XVIII. 



JOURNEY TO THE SOUTH — ANCIENT FORTRESS — 

EXTRAORDINARY CONDUCT OF SHAMUZ WINE 

— LANGUAGES SPOKEN ON THE COAST — A CON- 
GRESS IN THE SOUTH. 

Psid, March 29th, 1838. 

My dear . On the 24th inst. I set out, 

accompanied by Shamuz and others, on a journey to 
Khissa, which I have undertaken for the purpose 
(among others) of holding a congress in the south, and 
of having the letter of Daud Bey read to the assembly. 

On the hills between the bay of Doba, and the 
entrance to that of Semez, or Suguljak, as it is called 
by the Circassians, I alighted for the purpose of com- 
paring the localities on the spot with the copy of the 
Russian admiralty chart, given in the Portfolio. I 
found it almost as correct as could be expected on 
such a scale, and even according to it, it cannot pos- 
sibly be inferred that the bays of Suguljak and Doba 
are only one. Doba, which is so called by the natives, 
is that small bay to the N.W. of Ghelenjik : at its 
S.E. corner, was constructed in 1836, the small fort 
which the Russians call Alexandrinski. This can 
by no just construction be called the "military 
occupation" of the bay of Suguljak, to which the 
Russians lay claim ; for the cannons of the fort are 
too remote to prevent a vessel passing the smaller 
bay for the purpose of entering the other, and without 



426 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



such command of the waters of the bay, where is the 
test of maritime right through " military occupa- 
tion ? " A Russian soldier, moreover, has never ven- 
tured to set foot in the district of Semez (which ex- 
tends from Doha, all around the larger bay) for during 
the time — now almost an entire year — that we have 
lived in that district, we have taken our daily walks 
and rides over every or any part of it. And be it 
further remarked, that all that Russia— through 
political knavery, which has not yet been generally 
understood-— made the Sultan cede to her, was the spot 
on which stood formerly the fort called Sujuk-kaleh, 
(on the western side of the bay of Sugtiljak,) which 
spot has remained totally unoccupied by the Rus- 
sians. I trust, therefore, that the capture of the 
Vixen in this bay of Suguljak may still be publicly 
proved — as a patient examination of the treaties and 
all the circumstances connected with it must show 
it to have been — an unwarrantable violence, for 
which reparation must be made. Besides the national 
degradation of submitting to such wrong, it will 
be found that the apologists of Russia have been 
endeavouring to establish an exclusive right for her 
over the most valuable locality for commerce on the 
whole coast ; as it is the only one that offers at once 
refuge for shipping, and a practicable line of com- 
munication with the rich valleys on the Kuban. 

While I was putting up my chart, a shabbily 
dressed old man, who with others was tending a 
large flock of goats and sheep, came and begged I 
would lodge with him for the night, as it was too 
late (it was only 3 p.m.) to proceed farther,— adding 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



427 



that he would gladly kill a couple of sheep for our 
entertainment, as he had abundance. But I was 
obliged to decline this hospitable invitation, as 
Sharauz had gone on before to provide quarters, 
and expected me on the other side of the hill. On 
arriving there, I found our konak divested of his 
silver-laced coat, and clad in an old grey one, un- 
adorned. The reason assigned for the change was, 
that it is contrary to custom to wear the same coat 
more than four months, when it must be exchanged 
or replaced by a new one. 

I have heard of eight Turkish vessels having 
arrived this season, four of which have already 
departed with cargoes. 

Between Pshat and Tshopsin there are two long, 
rich, and beautiful vales; but between these the 
road passes through a series of such steep and difficult 
defiles that a Russian army, opposed by a fourth or 
a fifth of its number of resolute men, properly posted, 
would I think be unable to force a passage. 

After having passed the two larger streams which 
form the river Tshopsin (one of the largest on the 
northern part of the coast) we passed over some hills, on 
emerging from which I caught a view of the sea at the 
termination of the small valley we had entered into, and 
was busy inspecting the objects at its extremity to see 
if I could discover in any of them the semblance of the 
fort constructed here last year by the Russians, when 
having failed in my endeavour, I asked Nadir Bey's 
servant, who rode by my side, where it lay. " There 
it is," replied he ; and there sure enough it was, not 
half a cannon-shot from where we were, nearer the sea, 



428 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



on the end of a long ridge to our right, while the base 
of a hill to our left made it necessary that we should 
advance still more within the range of the guns before 
we could strike off into a valley to the eastward. To 
" return would have been as bad then as go o'er 
so I said nothing, but rode on quietly, like the rest, 
except Shamuz, who, with the experienced eye of an 
old warrior, at once saw what was best, and set the 
example by dashing across the valley to the shelter of 
a hill on its other side. He had not been here since 
the fort was erected, otherwise he would have chosen, 
I presume, a less hazardous path for his proteg£ 
The rest had entered the valley at the former pace, 
and I had just desired one of my servants to get out 
my telescope, thinking we were far enough off to 
admit of our surveying the fort leisurely, to see 
what some soldiers outside the wall were engaged in, 
when another cried, " Move on, they are going to 
fire." Immediately an explosion announced the first 
shot, which passed over Shamuz's head, a second 
splashed in the stream between us, and a third made 
a superb " geyser" of mud at the distance of a few 
paces on the line between me and the fort. This 
set most of our horses capering, and made us all 
move further up the valley, each according to his 
lumidres in the way he thought safest. 

All yesterday it rained hard, and kept me storm- 
staid ; but much cannon having been heard, and, 
according to the report of a man from the hills above 
this hamlet, musket-firing also, I started soon after 
daybreak for Tshopsin, where I found that the Cir- 
cassians had invented a novel amusement of station- 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



429 



ing themselves with a couple of small cannons on a 
hill above the fort, and firing into it. 

On each side of the valley the hills are pretty high 
and steep ; and within cannon-shot of its centre, there 
is a ridge which extends nearly to the sea, — at its 
termination stands the fort. Its ramparts are of 
earth, and of considerable extent, covering in their 
oblong square form the whole breadth of the ridge. 
Bastions are constructed at the centres and corners of 
each of the walls. But the ridge increases in height 
as it recedes from the sea, so as to command the 
fort entirely ; and as it is undulating and intersected 
with ravines, parties of Circassians had stationed 
themselves where they found complete shelter from 
the guns of the fort, within even half a musket-shot 
from it. There they lay on the watch for any 
Russian who might show himself at the embrasures, 
while many, regardless of exposure, perambulated the 
precincts of the fort on the level ground around it, 
and also within musket-shot ; so that during the 
whole time I was on the ground, there was a con- 
tinual popping of musketry from the numerous loop- 
holes on the top of the walls at these adventurous 
individuals, while a thundering gun or bomb was 
discharged at other parties more remote, as they 
debouched from the shelter of one hill to cross to 
that of another. The expectation of the Circassians 
I believe to have been, that their guns, small as they 
were, would have forced the Russians to have evacu- 
ated their fort and fight them in the valley, of which, 
as I saw no chance, I soon left the field ; yet quite 
convinced of the facility with which the fort might 



430 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



be carried by surprise during night, or the Russians 
forced to abandon it as well as that of Pshat, which 
is also commanded by hills on each side — if the 
Circassians set rightly about it, or possessed a small 
portion of the needful materiel. None of the garrison 
dare forage even for wood — with which they are 
supplied by sea— nor venture beyond half cannon- 
range for water ; and the same I believe will be found 
to be the case with the garrisons of all other forts 
that may hereafter be constructed anywhere but on 
the valleys near the Kuban. 

In this siege of Tshopsin, the casualties among 
the Russians were, I presume, but few, as they ap- 
peared to avoid all exposure. On our side there 
were of course a good many, one person having had 
his jaw carried away ; a noble being killed ; and the 
second youngest Zazi-oku (to which family the field- 
pieces belong) having had both legs wounded by the 
splinter of a shell. 

I mentioned in my letter of September last, that 
some persons towards Tshopsin had been accused of 
having sold four deserters to the Russians. Their 
innocence, however, has been proved by the mission 
of a person into Abazak, who found that the de- 
serters had been sold there, where the article is 
scarcer and the market price proportionably higher. 

The varieties of shade in religion, and of manners 
—upon which it has everywhere such influence- — I 
find to be considerable, according to the localities. 
To a considerable distance around Anapa, and along 
the Kuban, where the former Turkish inhabitants 
of the fortress chiefly traded, their influence and ex- 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



431 



ample have tended to give a supremacy and purity 
to the profession of Mohammedism ; while from 
Ghelenjik to about Waia, and for some distance in- 
land, there is mingled with that faith a strong tinc- 
ture of Christian observances : Lent, Easter (with 
its dyed eggs), and carnival, being all to be traced 
amid the rude rites practised at their respective pe- 
riods of the year. In the valley of Tshopsin we 
overtook a large body of men and lads, on horse 
and foot, departing from one of these celebrations. 
From Waia to Siitsha, where there always has been 
much Turkish trade, Mohammedism is again more 
prevalent, and instances are to be found there of its 
having triumphed over the distinction of rank, so 
firmly adhered to elsewhere, in cases of marriage — 
as, for example, that of a wealthy tokav at Shim- 
toatsh, married to the daughter of a Pshe or prince. 
The ancient custom, however, of drinking wine has 
kept its footing among a large portion of the inha- 
bitants of these parts, and will, I presume, long con- 
tinue to do so, notwithstanding the reproach of 
infidelity it entails — habits being stronger than pre- 
cepts. Southward of Sutsha there are again traces 
of Christianity ; while, towards the high mountains 
inland, many are said to live apparently regardless 
of all religion. 

Nejagub, 31st. — We stopped here early to-day to 
bargain for a large Russian boat that lay on the 
beach hard by, to carry some of us and our luggage 
to Khissa. This boat had been cut from the stern 
of a transport that lay in the bay of Ghelenjik ; for 
which purpose a Circassian youth of fifteen years of 



432 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



age swam into the bay at night, and brought off the 
boat alone. I had observed him last year on the 
beach of Shapsekwa, where he had just landed on his 
arrival from Turkey (after a dangerous chase, in 
which the vessel he was in got bilged), and I was 
struck by the modesty and native grace with which 
he received the caresses of his friends. " Immaturely 
brave," as we may again say, he fell soon after at 
Tshopsin, and the Russians, according to their 
newly-adopted barbarity, cut off his head. 

Nihil, April 1st. — Yesterday we crossed the 
mouths of the Shapsekwa, Neghipsekwa, and T&, 
which, with the Nibu, are all inconsiderable streams, 
but all deep enough to admit of small Turkish vessels 
of twenty to thirty tons being drawn over the beach 
into their embouchures, where, with branches on 
their masts to make them resemble trees, they lie 
almost entirely secure from discovery by the Russian 
cruisers. Tu, of all these, has the best anchorage 
near the shore. 

The ancient propensities of the natives are not 
yet quite eradicated ; for four months ago a Turkish 
vessel was plundered here of goods to the amount 
of thirty purses (one hundred and fifty pounds) by a 
large body of the neighbours of the konak of the 
captain, on the plea of their being at feud with him. 
The captain is here at present, and expects to obtain 
reimbursement of nearly the whole. Shamuz spent 
great part of last night in this affair, having convoked 
the persons of influence, and told them that the 
houses of the offenders shall be burned unless they 
make restitution. 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



433 



At Pshat the walnut-trees commence, and are to 
be seen as we advance southward in every valley. 
There are a great many in this pretty little glen, and 
a sauce is made here from the nut, to be used with 
boiled meat or in stews, which appears a decided 
improvement, and might be found to answer with 
fish also. Let Burgess take the hint. By-the-bye, 
in passing along the shore yesterday, some of our 
party, who were bathing their horses in the sea, got 
among a very large shoal of fish about the size of 
large haddocks ; a large dog-fish also lay stranded. 
This whole coast is said to abound with fish, which 
would form a great resource for the inhabitants (if 
they could betake themselves to it with security), 
but chiefly as an article of export (dried or salted) 
for Constantinople ; for they seem to have a dis- 
inclination to the use of fish. 

Our host here is a young noble of the Karzek 
fraternity, named Yedig, whose sister is said to be 
the belle of all the country round ; and I can believe 
it, judging from his very handsome and expressive 
features and tall graceful figure. 

Shepse, 2nd April. — Our handsome young host 
came with us this morning but a little way from the 
end of his valley, it not being safe for him to come 
further, as one of his fraternity had lately killed a 
man of Aguia, the district to the south, and the affair 
has not yet been settled. But I must mention the 
circumstances as somewhat characteristic of this state 
of society. The tokav who was killed was exceed- 
ingly wealthy, and had increased his means by 
getting the Turkish merchants to sojourn with him. 

VOL. I. E, P ... 



434 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



This occasioned envy among his neighbours, par- 
ticularly those of them who belonged to the Karzek 
family ; and upon some occasion the tokav had 
addressed such cutting reproaches to his compe- 
titors for influence that the mother stimulated one 
of her sons to seek vengeance for the disgrace. He 
went accordingly to the hamlet of the tokav, and 
shot him while reclining on his divan. The latter 
survived a short time, and begged that his fraternity 
would not compound for his murder, but demand 
blood for blood . The Karzeks have offered to pay 
the established fine, two hundred oxen, or allow 
punishment to be inflicted on the offender ; but they 
say that if any other individual of their fraternity be 
killed, they will retaliate : and thus the affair remains 
suspended, for the criminal and his family have taken 
refuge in Abazak. 

The notable rivers or streams, whose mouths we 
have passed to-day, are the Aguia and Toapse. The 
former is nearly in the latitude in which Major 
Rennel places Achaia vetus ; and Aguia appears a 
much less transformation than usually takes place 
in such a lapse of time, and in such difference of 
language as there is between Greek and Circassian. 
As I gazed over the beautiful valley with its stately 
trees, among which the walnut preponderated, and 
its picturesque enclosure of wooded mountains, I 
could not help regretting that some graceful Grecian 
structures did not still exist there, to contrast with 
the grander beauties of nature. But not a vestige 
is to be seen, nor, so far as I could learn, to be found. 
On a height at the side of the valley a fortress is 
recorded to have stood, but even its ruins are now 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



435 



obliterated. The depth of water close to the land 
at this place would admit vessels of considerable 
draught to trade here. 

In this respect, however, Toapse has even greater 
advantages, for Russian frigates have there approached 
to within rifle-range of the land, the anchorage is said 
to be excellent, and the bay forms a considerable 
indenture between two high head-lands. The neigh- 
bourhood, moreover, is rich and populous, the distance 
from Abazak but eight or nine hours, the valley large 
and fertile, and the stream of water that intersects it 
among the largest on the coast. But alas for Toapse ! 
the Russians have come to hear of its advantages, and 
I was told to-day, by a person who says he obtained his 
information from themselves, that it is their intention 
to have a dock here, and a ship-building establishment, 
for which the hills around appear to possess abundant 
timber, and more may be floated from the interior 
(where it is of very large growth) at the proper sea- 
son. As yet, however, I am happy to say, they are 
so far from the accomplishment of their object, that, 
with all their cannon and marines, they were lately 
beaten back in an attempt to burn a small Turkish 
vessel that had been hauled over the beach. On the 
highest part of the sea-shore the Circassians had 
constructed a breast-work of hurdle filled with 
shingle ; behind this they lay secure in a trench 
while the bombarding continued, and when the boats 
approached they poured upon them so deadly a fire 
that the enemy was forced to retire. It is thought 
however, that an attack on a larger scale, and for the 
purpose of erecting a fort, will be attempted there, as 

F F 2 



436 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



the place is much frequented by Turkish vessels, two 
of which (lately arrived) I found behind a bank high 
and dry, and their masts graced as usual with boughs 
of trees. But a fort there will be commanded by 
higher ground within cannon-range. 

All the Turks and Circassians lately arrived speak 
of an unaccountable disappearance of Sefir Bey, and 
this has caused as much discouragement as his return 
to Constantinople and communications with the 
English ambassador had excited hope. How cruel 
are these alternations ! 

The Shepse is but a small stream at present ; but 
its winter ravages have made a stony bed of the 
greater part of the bottom of its glen ; yet, on each 
side, are some large rich meadows and much cultiva- 
tion. We rode for an hour up the glen until we 
arrived at this the large and populous hamlet of 
Tshukh* Kerim Gheri, where a spacious guest-house 
and blazing fire were our first consolations for six 
hours of a cold ride over that shingly sea-beach — the 
only highway, with occasional divergings over the 
hills — amid a gale of wind and rain. 

This and all other peeps into the interior convince 
me how arduous is the task Russia has set herself in 
attempting the conquest of this country. This glen, 
for instance, soon dwindles to nothing but the rocky 
channel of the stream, with abrupt hills of all shapes 
and ruggedness narrowly enclosing it. The whole 
country I have passed is of the same general charac- 

* When any one is specifically mentioned, the Circassians generally 
prefix the name of his fraternity to his own name. In such cases the 
name of the fraternity will be given in Italics. 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



437 



ter. I have heard it affirmed over and over again, 
that if the people were but supplied with salt they 
could keep the Russians at bay for forty or fifty years, 
and I can believe it, for it comes to be a question of 
"the rule of three viz., if Russia have with such 
means as she has employed taken eleven years to 
conquer as far as Tshopsin, supposing this portion to 
be conquered, which it is not by any means ; how long 
will she take to conquer the rest of Circassia, espe- 
cially the interior of the country, where her ships 
cannot avail her? 

Sukukh, Mh April. — This morning, about half- 
past eight, we set out from Shepse, and the sea-beach 
still being our road, in about two hours we reached 
the glen of the Mokupse, where an entrenchment on 
the shore showed the resort of Turkish ships and the 
preparations made for defending them. Passing some 
smaller streams, in about four hours more we arrived 
at that of Waia, which is large and rapid, and a good 
deal resorted to by Turkish vessels. What I took 
last year — as seen from a distance at sea, and in the 
ignorance I then had of all the streams on this coast 
— for the delta of a river I found now to be a flat 
tract of land, the only one I have seen on the coast, 
of about two miles long by half a mile broad, backed 
by hills, which increase in elevation until they become 
at some distance from the sea very lofty — that is, 
two to three thousand feet. This rich tract is parted 
into meadows, where Turkey-corn chiefly had been 
grown ; but it seemed to have borne other grain, and 
perhaps a rich crop of grapes. Numerous standard 
trees — many of them walnut — are left throughout 



438 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



the whole extent, and they are all festooned with 
enormous vines, the grapes of which my countrymen 
who tasted them last year pronounced excellent. On 
an eminence near the stream are extensive traces of 
a fortification, said, as usual, to have been Genoese. 
The ruins are now nearly level with the ground, and 
all overgrown. Within their circuit I saw a large 
throne of stone, and its footstool, but of the rudest 
workmanship, or weather- wasted to that appearance. 

For an hour or two north and south of Waia, the 
hills are almost bare of trees, and have a stony barren 
appearance ; yet there are considerable patches of 
cultivation almost to their very summit. 

At Waia I saw the first and only instance I have 
met with in this country, of a person intoxicated ; 
viz. the chief, a very old man, who has lately lost his 
wife, and, it is said, part of his intellect also in conse- 
quence. His breath, as he repeatedly clapped me on 
the head, smelt of spirits. 

On leaving the beach to seek a night's lodging, we 
had to wander for some time among the forests of 
these hills, my escort being strangers, except Shamuz, 
who had parted to seek a separate one. At length 
we lighted on a hamlet fit to entertain us, or rather me, 
for whom superior accommodation is always sought 
by my conductors ; viz. that of two hospitable tokavs, 
Deghe Osman and Omar. But we did not arrive at 
it till the sun had been for some time set ; yet we were 
promptly welcomed, and I was much gratified by the 
ramble, which had afforded me most picturesque views 
of this rich and romantic-looking portion of the coast. 
The hills are high, multiform, and richly wooded ; 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



439 



and in the little dells and plateaux on their sides, 
numerous hamlets are perched, whose whitewashed 
houses, blossomed fruit-trees, and patches of bright 
green sward, give a pleasing contrast to the sombre 
forest scenery around. The neatness of the numerous 
graveyards — many of them much ornamented and 
decked with shrubs — particularly struck me as evi- 
dence of a humane tone of feeling in the society of 
the neighbourhood. 

But these hills afford another object of very 
different interest in the lofty, mouldering walls of an 
ancient fortress overhanging the sea, and called, as 
usual, Genoese, which perhaps in this case may be 
correct, ruin having but begun its work. 

The rhododendrons, of which the woods here are 
full, are just beginning to blossom, and to perfume 
the air. 

My lively young Pole, who has hitherto only been 
among the stricter Mussulmans to the north, was 
quite delighted at supper to-night by having a large 
glass of very tolerable white wine served him by our 
host after every two or three mouthfuls. 

Khissa, 5tk. — This morning a four hours' ride 
along the beach brought us to this rich, populous, 
and picturesque valley. About half way we passed 
the much larger valley of Subesh and its broad rapid 
stream ; but my former accounts of this part of the 
coast may save me the further hackneying of epithets 
and description. 

With some little difficulty I got my escort to diverge 
a little from the way at Sukukh, that I might get a view 
at leisure of the ruins of the fortress, which I found 
very considerable. Towards the sea there is a preci- 



440 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



pice. The other three -sides of an oblong square, of 
four to five English acres, are enclosed by a strongly 
built wall of stone and lime, about a yard and a 
half in thickness, and from twelve to fifteen or 
twenty feet high — according to the undulations of the 
ground — with towers and buttresses at the two land- 
ward corners. At the north-west corner toward the 
sea, a space of about a quarter of an acre is walled off 
from the larger one : on the northern side, within the 
wall of this smaller enclosure, is an oblong mass of 
ruins, while in the wall of the western side is the 
square base of what appears to have been a donjon- 
keep of very solid masonry. I thought the smaller 
enclosure might have been the citadel, and the larger 
one the mart. 

If this large establishment was a Genoese factory- 
fort — as appears highly probable — it and others on 
the coast prove the importance that enterprising 
republic attached to the trade of this country, which 
must have then been — as regards its own exports — 
the same as it is, or rather might be made, at this 
day. 

But this mart has now become a very picturesque 
vineyard, where, moreover, a large crop of Turkey- 
corn seemed to have been produced last year, and the 
tillage of this season was already begun. 

Here I am lodged at the hamlet of a much respected 
Hadji, who is gone a second time on a pilgrimage to 
Mecca, and has taken his wife with him — a proof, so 
far, that (contrary to a prejudice not uncommon 
among us) there is some value set on the souls of 
females among Mussulmans. A mosk constructed by 
the Hadji is in the same enclosure as the guest- 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



441 



house, and the hamlet is further graced by two most 
luxuriant weeping-willows, the first I have observed. 

§th. — Yesterday I came two or three miles across 
the hills to this the hamlet of Hassan Bey, who as I 
have stated before carries on trade with Turkey in 
two or three vessels of his own, and is one of the 
richest persons in this part of the country, where his 
family, originally from Constantinople, has been esta- 
blished for about a century and a half. Hafiz Pasha 
is his eldest brother, and other two enjoy high mili- 
tary rank in the Turkish service. When Hassan 
was last in Turkey, he was strongly urged by his 
brothers to enter the same service, in which high 
grade and speedy promotion were promised him; but 
these brilliant offers could not turn him from his love 
of Circassian life and its native freedom. He has 
blended it however with much more luxury and in- 
dulgence than belong to it — in this part of the country 
at least. Of this luxury we have constantly exam- 
ples ; viz. tea and rich (buffalo) cream served morning 
and evening, and four mortal hours spent by him 
(after a noble and I have dined) at table with the 
rest of his guests, amid copious libations of wine and 
spirits, in the distribution of which the Ganymedes — 
an ugly Russian and two Circassian lads — employ 
their most winning looks to induce modest indi- 
viduals to drink. 

On my former visit to this part of the country, I 
had no idea of the extent to which wine abounds in 
it. The quantity of vines which I before observed 
in some valleys I now find in all the rest ; and in 
several places I have seen new vineyards in training, 



442 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



young standard trees having been planted (or left in 
cutting down others), and the lower branches lopped 
off, for the purpose of supporting the young vines 
set beside them. The whole country around is a 
ki pays de bocages," and hilly besides — small conical 
and variously formed hills, such as make it quite 
impenetrable to any but the lightest artillery. The 
population seems to be as much as nourishment can 
well be got for, for it was with difficulty, till I came 
to Hassan Bey's, that I could get grain for our horses 
even at very high prices as compared with those of 
the north; and millet, the least desirable, was all I 
could get. 

But I almost wonder I have patience for these 
minor subjects, as one of great interest to us strangers 
is preying upon my mind. Shamuz, our old konak, in 
favour of whom I have so often written strongly, de- 
clared a little time ago, in the presence of about a dozen 
people, that he considered me a spy, (!) that he would 
tear any letters I might write in future, and that if 
I would not return with him to Semez immediately, 
as he wished me to do, he would have me taken by 
force ! The only cause he assigned for his suspicions 
were my writing so much, and having gone to see that 
ruined fortress at Sukukh ; while all that we have done 
(for my countrymen, or Mr. L. at least I presume is 
classed with me) — all that we have suffered, to say 
nothing of all that we have given, seems in a moment 
lost sight of. Hassan Bey grew exceedingly angry, 
and told Shamuz he believed that what he had as- 
serted was false, which his own conduct proved, in 
having had us for a year at his house, during all 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



443 



which time not a word had been uttered of such 
suspicions. He added that at all events he would 
not suffer him to repeat such insults to a stranger in 
his house — that he might bring his force and see 
what he could do with it here — that he believed me 
a true friend of the country, and that therefore I 
should stay with him as long as I pleased, or go where 
I chose, and that he would accompany me. Several 
of the others joined in these reproaches, and they 
begged my dragoman not to repeat to me what had 
been said (in Circassian) : but I had seen, and that was 
sufficient. Shamuz said his prayers soon after and 
departed, without my having addressed a word to him. 
In the evening he sent for my dragoman to come and 
see him next morning, and the former had then set 
out with a message for me, when both returned and 
gave me an opportunity of speaking to the old gentle- 
man personally. I did so to this effect : that I 
had seen enough the day before to convince me that 
he had spoken against me, which I could not have 
believed on report, as I had always believed him an 
honest man ; but that he must have spoken falsely 
either now or hitherto, while he had expressed 
such esteem and confidence in us ; that his conduct, 
however, should make no change in mine, as he had 
no just cause to find fault with it ; and that I should 
remain hereabouts until I had finished the affairs I 
came for, and then proceed to Semez to join my 
countryman. He replied mildly that " what was 
passed, was past;" and then begged me to let him 
know whether I intended returning with him or not, 
as he found he could not get his horse properly fed, 



444 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



on account of the scarcity of grain, and must there- 
fore set out immediately. I answered, " I shall do as 
I have already said," when he took Hassan out to 
the green and endeavoured to inoculate him with his 
suspicions, and to extract from him a promise to be 
responsible for me or my conduct — in neither of which 
objects has he succeeded, as I may presume from what 
passed having been communicated to me immediately. 
He endeavoured also to get Luca to desert me (saying 
it would be better for him in the end), and having 
been unsuccessful in this also he departed, after 
having vowed vengeance against a servant of Nadir 
Bey, who had bearded him in some measure ; taken 
from him a small portion of a large quantity of pow- 
der given him by his master, and whom he had found 
not to be the sincere convert to his faith he had at 
first believed him to be. 

Hassan Bey and others have endeavoured to make 
me think lightly of the whole affair — the former 
saying (in accordance with the suspicion I have 
formerly expressed), that he thinks Shamuz's mind 
somewhat debilitated. It remains to be seen, when 
I go northward, whether others think so ; whether 
the great influence this old chief has hitherto enjoyed 
may make them adopt his views, or whether they be 
already generally diffused, from misconstruction put 
upon the great delay that has occurred — in which 
case prompt action from England can alone save us 
from a very awkward dilemma. For flight, even if 
possible, would damn the English name and the 
Circassian cause ; and my seeking permanent refuge 
here in the south might warrant general suspicion, 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



445 



and render Mr. L.'s situation very embarrassing. I 
see, therefore, no other way open for me but to re- 
turn to Semez, so soon as I shall have accomplished 
my objects here, and face my accusers, whosoever they 
may be. 

llth, — This morning a man brought back a letter 
I had given Shamuz to take to Mr. L. at Semez, 
with a message from him to this effect — that as we 
had differed, he could not take my letter. This, it 
seems to me, may be construed two ways ; either 
that he is ashamed of what has passed and wishes 
it no further known, or that he wishes to keep Mr. 
L. alone in ignorance of it, lest he also should endea- 
vour to escape, as I fancy he thinks I wish to do. 

Last evening, while we were at dinner, the second 
worst of my four horses, which were all in the same 
stable, was stolen. Great search was made for it by 
my host and his servants, one of whom, a Pole, he 
put in irons on suspicion that he intended making off 
with it ; but it seems to be since agreed among all 
here, that the thief must have been one of my escort*, 
to all of whom I refused any presents, on account of 
the conduct of Shamuz, who had brought them with 
him. Here it is loudly protested, that such a crime 
is almost unknown ; and I must say in favour of this 
neighbourhood, that horses are here left out un- 
watched at night, which was never done at Semez. 

Shamuz is at all events a faithful, ardent patriot, 
and a brave, active warrior ; whether it be bigotry 
and suspicion, or wilfulness, vindictiveness, and greed, 



* Subsequently it was found that this was not the case. 



446 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA, 



with which his general character must be qualified, I 
really cannot yet say. As regards, however, the two 
former items, it ought to be stated, that Shamuz 
betrayed symptoms of them four years ago, on the 
occasion of Daud Bey's visit at Semez, when, after 
remarking on the blond complexion of the latter — • 
" exactly like that of the Moscov " — he differed from 
his countrymen about the propriety of entrusting 
him with an address to the King of England, and 
left the congress in consequence of his advice not 
having been agreed with. 

The vine country begins effectively at Waia, and 
extends thence all along the coast to the south ; but 
it is limited to the neighbourhood of the coast. I 
have no doubt^ however, that it might be advan- 
tageously propagated along the coast northward, and 
on the valleys toward the Kuban, as it has been 
successfully introduced by the Russians beyond that 
river. The people in cultivating the ground here- 
abouts, have frequently found ancient earthen jars 
of wine ; but they have never ventured to taste the 
contents. 

I find a tradition here regarding the ancient for- 
tress of Sukukh, similar to that which prevailed with 
regard to the ancient tomb of Semez ; viz., that upon 
some persons attempting to dig for treasure supposed 
to be buried under the " keep," they were affrighted 
with unearthly sounds, a sally of serpents, &c- 
How natural to us appears to be a love of the 
marvellous ! 

Sutsha, I6tk. — I find the Circassian name of this 
valley (or river district) to be Sashe, and that it is 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



44?' 



called Sutsha by the Turks only. The Circassian 
name of Mamai also is Psekha ; of Subesh, Shakhe ; 
of one of the streams of Khissa, Bu ; and of Vardan, 
Leup. It is only by slow degrees one can arrive at 
anything like accuracy in these respects, especially in 
my circumstances ; for I found, when it was too late, 
that the casual endeavours I made had become one 
of the foundations for Shamuz' charges against me. 

The distinction in name between the people inha- 
biting the vicinity of three or four streams in this 
neighbourhood, and those whose northern boundary is 
a little to the south — is Abaza and Azra. The dialect 
of the latter seems to be generally understood here, 
as well as that of the Adighes (or Circassians) of 
Notwhatsh, Shapsuk, and Abazak : and one or 
other of the three totally different languages of these 
people is made use of as a congress happens to be 
constituted of members from the southward or north- 
ward ; for the confederation of this part of the coast 
extends from the pass of Ghagra (latterly from even 
beyond that) to Toapse*. 

Word has arrived from an Azra prince, (whom the 
Russians have degraded with the title of general,) 
that the invading army had already arrived at Su- 
kum kaleh, and will embark immediately after the 
Russian Easter ; and that, as its destination must 

* The three races just mentioned (specimens of whose languages will 
be found in the Appendix) are now much mingled together — especially 
on their frontiers — both as regards their places of residence and their 
fraternities. Their former location, however, appears to have been as 
follows : — Azras from the Mingrelian frontier to the stream Hamish: 
Abazas from the Hamish to the Leup (or Vardan), and Adighes, 
thence to the Kuban. 



448 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



be Sutsha, Mama'i, or Khissa, his countrymen should 
withdraw their effects, and be otherwise prepared. 
He adds, that he has been called upon to furnish 
auxiliaries, and deplores the necessity he shall be 
under of doing so ; because he is in the power of the 
Russians. 

The Russians, in again turning the arms of the 
people against each other, seem desirous that the 
entire nature of subjugation to the emperor should 
not be forgotten. It is to be hoped it may not, and 
that it may nerve the people of this portion of the 
coast, still free, to prefer death to such fratricidal 
slavery. 

Those of this neighbourhood (I have been told by 
several Turks) are exceedingly honest and trust- 
worthy, no mischief to a merchant or his goods 
having happened in their recollections. I have 
ascertained that it really was the case that hostages 
have been taken from the chiefs between this and 
Ghagra, to ensure their continued resistance to the 
Russians, although I cannot hear of their having 
given any cause for suspicion. 

I was sorry to hear from Nadir Bey some months 
since, that Hassan Bey, when they met at Waia, had 
spoken of having been to Sukum-kaleh, and seen 
Baron Rosen, of whose friendship he even seemed 
then to boast. I thought at the time it must be 
some other folly — not treachery— the Bey had been 
guilty of ; and such I find it. He had the sanction 
of the chiefs to go on that errand, in which some 
of them accompanied him, in the hope that the 
permission of the baron might be obtained for the 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



449 



ships of Hassan (who considered himself a Turkish 
subject) to pass the Russian cruisers, and carry on 
his trade ! The baron must have been highly 
amused at their simplicity ; and, Russian-like, he 
turned it to account ; for Hassan returned fully per- 
suaded that he had accomplished his object, and sent 
his poor captain to sea, who, assured that he needed 
no longer fear the cruisers, came within reach of 
their guns, and was captured, together with his crew 
and passengers ! 

Vfth. — Yesterday and to-day, congresses of the 
chief persons of this neighbourhood have been held 
on Daud Bey's letter ; but to-day was the principal 
meeting, as Ali Achmet Bey was in attendance, 
besides several mollahs and other chiefs. It was 
urged by way of excuse for not collecting a greater 
assembly, that all are in imminent danger from 
the threatened attack of the Russians, which renders 
it necessary for them to remove their families and 
effects to a greater distance from the coast, and to 
complete its fortifications as speedily as possible. The 
congress was held on a green, and messengers passed 
between it and my house. The first message was to 
express admiration at the address, and to reply to it, 
that union and the appointment of some species of 
government were certainly most requisite, and that if 
the people could have accomplished these things them- 
selves, there w r ould have been no need for their seeking 
external aid ; but, that in the present position of affairs, 
it was beyond their power to attempt any change, 
and, that there was reason, moreover, to believe, 
that any chief elected from among themselves would 

VOL. I. G G 



450 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



not obtain sufficient respect and authority. " One 
must be sent us," they said, " either from England 
or Turkey, and then everything he orders will be 
cheerfully performed." The next message was for 
the purpose of obtaining precise information as to what 
might at present be expected from England ; to 
which I explained, that the coast was considered as 
not appertaining to Russia, and consequently open to 
British commerce, which it was the present aim and 
intention of their friends in England to commence as 
soon as possible, the ships I had spoken of as likely 
to arrive at present being the first essay ; and all that 
I was as yet enabled to assure them of was, that if 
another English vessel were taken by the Russians 
elsewhere than in the bay of Suguljak (and even the 
question as to that locality, I told them, I believed 
still undecided), the Government of England would 
interfere to demand restitution ; the effect of which 
would be, to throw the trade entirely open. To this 
it was replied, that this prospect was all they wished 
in the mean while ; for if they could only be supplied 
with salt and the other necessaries they require from 
abroad, I might assure Daud Bey and my country- 
men, that they would never become subjects of 
Russia ; " for," continued they, " as his letter truly 
says, we have abundance of mountains, and to these 
we will retire in the mean while and defend ourselves, 
if we be unable to retain possession of the coast ; but 
if the Russians succeed in what it is said they are 
determined to effect — the erection of forts at all the 
chief places to which the Turkish vessels now resort 
— and if English vessels do not arrive in the course 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



4,51 



of this or the following year, our situation will become 
truly deplorable." 

I next received the strongest assurances that British 
commerce on all that portion of the coast for which 
they could be answerable ; viz. from Arduwhatsh 
to Shakhe *, should receive the same encouragement 
as that of Turkish merchants, who had never received 
here any cause of complaint (to the truth of this some 
Turks present again assented) ; and as to my ships, they 
promised, that for some time at least no import duty 
should be charged ; that the captain and sailors should 
be supplied with all they might want, and be treated 
with the greatest kindness ; and as to the cargoes, 
not only should every one here exert himself to the 
utmost to get them disposed of— the ships reloaded 
and despatched with the greatest alacrity— but my 
goods should be bought dearer and theirs sold cheaper 
than usual, as some reward for my great sacrifices and 
exertions in behalf of their country. <f And as our 
last words," it was added, " be assured that if this 
trade be once established, w 7 e will never make terms 
with the Russians, but will continue to struggle with 
them so long as any of us remain in existence/' 

The congress having then risen, Ali Achmet Bey, 
Ali-bi of Arduwhatsh, a very intelligent and lively 
person, and other leading individuals, came to bid me 
farewell, when as my parting words I begged them 
by no means to despond, for although much time had 

* The confederation, as I have shown, extends much further both ways; 
but these individuals, it may be presumed, wished to bring the British 
trade to their own neighbourhood, which, however, is the most import- 
tant. 



452 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



been consumed in the advocacy of their cause abroad, 
I had good reason to believe their affairs to be in a 
better position than ever, and what they had now 
chiefly to do was to retain that position, by resisting 
the Russians to the best of their power, but above all 
by punishing severely all spies and traitors. 

In accordance with these recommendations I was 
then told that the chiefs were obliged to depart, as 
they were engaged in having the coast fortified, and 
they were about to proceed to the trial of four indi- 
viduals on the coast to the southward, who had 
been detected holding some communication with the 
enemy. 

Previously to these general matters being dis- 
cussed, it having been stated to the assembly that in 
consequence of the division of Nadir Bey's powder 
among the people at Waia, against his will, I wanted 
to have some security against such spoliation of any 
goods I might land here ; it was replied that at that 
portion of the coast there are some bad subjects who 
must be punished, but that in Nadir Bey's case the 
blame lay with his companion Zazi-oku Mehmet, who 
had stated that the powder was sent for division 
among the people, by the Sultan, who gave Nadir 
Bey money to purchase it with ! Of this statement 
having been made by Mehmet, Hassan Bey (who 
then acted as interpreter for the Azran tongue) so- 
lemnly assured me (and others thus attest), and that 
it was the sole cause of the division. The meeting 
was then told that I nominated Hassan Bey as my 
konak here, and agent in whatever I might require 
aid, when a general attestation was given as to the 



RESIDENCE IN CIRCASSIA. 



453 



entire reliance that might be placed upon his integ- 
rity and knowledge ; and, for further assurance, four 
of the principal persons present struck hands with 
him as public evidence of their becoming bound to 
give him any requisite aid in protecting my property. 

Here I have been most hospitably entertained by 
a Turkish merchant, whose family also has been long 
resident here, and whose blood I think must, from 
the peculiarities of his form and character, have a 
large admixture of that of Circassia : his bearing is 
that of a Murat, as if he were born to head a charge 
of cavalry. Oh ! that despots could see how they 
spoil the work of Nature. 



END OF VOL. I. 



LONDON : 

BRADBURY AND EVANS, PRINTERS, VVHITEFiUARS. 



